Overheating Problem!

[t-sportIRL]

Hey if anyone can help me id be gratefull, my car started overheating boiled all the water out of the radiator which iv replaced along with coolent, but im getting only cold air out of the heating system too.

Iv been stranded up in galway since and cant get home so if anyone can help me out if would be great also if it helps the 50amp fuse blew juring it thats for A/PUMP.

Its after the bad frost so guessing something froze and caused it, gonna check the thermostat in the morning so tips welcome.

Thanks

[nrgizerbunny]

turn the air con off for starters.

[t-sportIRL]

turn the air con off for starters.

air con off just normal heating but coming out cold and engine overheating even when all heating turned off, so bit puzzled gonna try look through the options tomorrow cheers

[nrgizerbunny]

see if the thermostat is actually opening. from memory it should fail in the open position.

[Mick24]

Check the stat first - put it in a jug of hot water to see if it opens correctly and replace if faulty.

Refill the cooling system with anti-freeze mix or Toyota's own pre mixed coolant and bleed any air out of the system until all pipes are hot - check for leaks and the cooling fan operates when up to temp.

The 50A Air Pump fuse wont have any bearing on the overheating issue ( my Air Pump has been disabled for 3 weeks now ) but may put the engine management light/VSC/TRC lights on as the ecu will detect a Air Pump malfunction.

Hope its nothing too serious,

Mick

[t-sportIRL]

cheers lads ill give it a look in the morning, is there any easy way to get to the thermostat as it seems to be in a difficult posistion?

[Panners]

When you drained your coolant did you make sure the heater was set to hot? I'd imagine you would have it hot this time of year, but if not then that could explain your cold problem as the heater matrix wont have drained properly and you end up with an airlock in the cooling system.

Also, I seem to remember a similar problem with an older car (the overheating) and it turned out to be a dodgy radiator cap, though am not sure how to check that, just bin it a fit a new one I guess.

Cheers.

[Mick24]

As nrgizer said above - if the wax capsule on the thermostat leaks/fails, the stat should stay fully open in the " fail safe " position.

Chances are its not fully opening causing a restriction in the cooling system and giving you the overheating problem.

Mick

[bigshark]

mate not meaning to scare you there but the head gasket could be gone / cracked. are there any brown-ish gunk around the oil filler cap and in the coolant tank?? bu that is a worst case scenario...

or air-lock perhaps??

[dailey87]

mate not meaning to scare you there but the head gasket could be gone / cracked. are there any brown-ish gunk around the oil filler cap and in the coolant tank?? bu that is a worst case scenario...

or air-lock perhaps??

I would be having a look under the oil cap and in the expansion tank too just to be on the safe side.

After owning a MG it's the first thing i think of when i see the word 'overheating'. Damn k-series.

[t-sportIRL]

When you drained your coolant did you make sure the heater was set to hot? I'd imagine you would have it hot this time of year, but if not then that could explain your cold problem as the heater matrix wont have drained properly and you end up with an airlock in the cooling system.

Also, I seem to remember a similar problem with an older car (the overheating) and it turned out to be a dodgy radiator cap, though am not sure how to check that, just bin it a fit a new one I guess.

Cheers.

Heater was set to hot but its digital and car was off while i checked the thermostat and refilled it, thermostat opened when i tested it but just a small bit gonna put a new one in in the morning anyway, but heater still blowing cold!!

As nrgizer said above - if the wax capsule on the thermostat leaks/fails, the stat should stay fully open in the " fail safe " position.

Chances are its not fully opening causing a restriction in the cooling system and giving you the overheating problem.

Mick

Cheers for the diagrams pitty i didnt see them before i done it tho ha figured it out after a few mins looking at it.

Hopefully the new thermostat will do the job, where you getting those pages from Mick?

is there an online manual?

Dont think its the head gasket anyway lads no discoloring or anything like that so hoping not anyway thanks.

[t-sportIRL]

ok at this again iv flushed the matrix and its flowing good through it now have the thermostat out and checking it again if its faulty ill leave it out just to see if it is this as i cant get a new one till the new year.

Anyone any tips on the easiest way to bleed the system of air as iv the matrix done and all and dont want to air lock anything.

Thanks

[myromeo]

Cold blowers almost certainly point to an airlock somewhere. Not sure where the bleed points are on the rolla, it could even auto bleed to the expansion tank.

Get the frog end raised as much as you can and run engine, go thru engine bay squeezing all pipes until all are hot, hopefully that will be enough to shift the air.

Oh, also ex mg owner here too!

[t-sportIRL]

Found out what the problem was, water pump is in bits said the coolent that was in it wasnt strong enough after testing it and must of sheared the fins off.

So make sure yee all have good coolent as its costed me a new water pump

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Found out what the problem was, water pump is in bits said the coolent that was in it wasnt strong enough after testing it and must of sheared the fins off.

So make sure yee all have good coolent as its costed me a new water pump

Ouch, how much are you having to pay for a new pump? Make sure you get O-ring seals with it too or you will just be having it leak the new coolant out! Have you found all of the bits from the fins yet, or are they still floating around the system? That could prove to be more disastrous!

[t-sportIRL]

the pumps €135 +vat but at least it will be sorted.

The fins didnt do any damage themselfs kinda stayed in the pump so was lucky, pump be in by saturday so should be back driving soon :D

[KPARRIS-JONES]

the pumps €135 +vat but at least it will be sorted.

The fins didnt do any damage themselfs kinda stayed in the pump so was lucky, pump be in by saturday so should be back driving soon :D

aargh I hate that price! Is it genuine Toyota because that would explain it!

I hope all goes well and you get your rolla back! :D

[tccom]

Found out what the problem was, water pump is in bits said the coolent that was in it wasnt strong enough after testing it and must of sheared the fins off.

So make sure yee all have good coolent as its costed me a new water pump

as i said in your other topic :P

[t-sportIRL]

the pumps €135 +vat but at least it will be sorted.

The fins didnt do any damage themselfs kinda stayed in the pump so was lucky, pump be in by saturday so should be back driving soon :D

aargh I hate that price! Is it genuine Toyota because that would explain it!

I hope all goes well and you get your rolla back! :D

Ye genuine parts so explains it priced a belt too and was 74 +vat, rip off ones on it is perfect anyway :D

Found out what the problem was, water pump is in bits said the coolent that was in it wasnt strong enough after testing it and must of sheared the fins off.

So make sure yee all have good coolent as its costed me a new water pump

as i said in your other topic :P

Yep it was i was thinking too was just hoping to find a cheaper problem first by looking else where ha ah well..

Thanks for all the help anyway lads cheers ;)