How To Tint Your Window

March 2, 2010

Having received a couple of questions in another post regarding how I tinted my windows I decided to post up this 'how to' that I did for another forum. I am by no means an expert and he following is meant for information only and should not be relied on if you find yourself on the wrong side of the law or if you waste your money or ruin your car!

Now, this is NOT an easy five minute job! I have done this as a guide for anyone who fancies having a go like I did, but don't expect OE results!

You need to make sure you have plenty of time set aside to do it as working to a deadline will not help at all. If you are good at it you should be able to get it done in a day.

Tinting and the Law

Before you tint your windows you need to think about if they will be legal (I tinted over the rear brake light as it was easier but am not sure if it is legal although I have seen many cars like this).

The windscreen needs to let in a minimum of 75% of the available light and the front side windows (between the A and B pillar) need to let in a minimum of 70% of the light. In my experience of checking window tint levels a standard factory tinted window will be tinted to let in about 70 - 75% so any level of tint you add will make them illegal.

What will the Police do if my Windows are Illegal?

Thames Valley have a 'graduated' system for dealing with illegal tints. Between 60 to 45% of light transmission through the front side windows will result in 'words of advice' about your windows.

44 - 30% will be a £30 fixed penalty ticket.

29 - 11% This will result in a £60 fine and 3 points on your licence.

10% and below will result in being reported to court for dangerous driving.

It may be that you are simply given the option to remove the tints or take the fine, that is down to the officer.

What about the Rear Windows?

The rear screen and behind the B pillar can be as dark as you like. Think of car derived / transit vans, they have solid metal behind the B pillar and sometimes no windows in the back doors.

How do the Police Check the Level?

They use a device called a 'Tintman' which is a light source and a receiver. A 'washer' is placed between the source and the receiver and the machine is adjusted until the reading is 100% (give or take 2.5% IIRC) as there is nothing but air between the two parts 100% of light is transmitted.

They then insert a piece of glass with a known tint level between the two parts and this is used to check that the machine is calibrated correctly. They then put the receiver on one side of your window and the light source on the other (it holds itself in place with magnets in the device). Three readings are taken along the centre line of the window and then the lowest reading is used. This is usually done on a cleaned window rather than leaving it dirty.

But it Passed an MOT with the Tints in

It will do as the level of tint is not checked during an MOT as they do not have the equipment to check it.

Which Level of Tint Should I go For?

It depends what look you are after and also the colour of your car. A light tint on a white car will look darker than on a black car. It also depends on how much you want to be able to see out of the windows! Limo tints may look great but only allow 5% of light through making night time reversing tricky.

I went for 'Dark smoke' which lets in 15% of the light so looks nice and dark from the outside but still lets you see out of the windows.

What Tools do I Need?

I used a spray bottle full of water and washing up liquid, an old reward card, Sharp knife (I used a Stanley knife) and lots of paper towel / a lint free cloth.

How is it Done?

This is the tricky part!

The tint comes on a roll, make sure you get enough and allow for mistakes! I went for 76cm by 6m to do a Rav4, this will be more than you need for a ZS.

First you need to clean both sides of the window, especially the inside, I clayed the inside but you can use a razor blade to remove anything stuck to the window. Any little speck will result in a bubble in the tint (also true if debris gets on the adhesive part of the tint film)

I first tinted a small 'static' window to get try to get the hang of it;

What this doesn't show is that there is trim on the inside of the glass that makes the amount of window to be tinted less.

Spray the outside of the window with the solution and then make sure you know which side of the tint the protective film is on (it is normally on the outside of the roll). Unroll the tint over the widow you are going to tint, cut it roughly to shape (I used scissors for this) and let it 'stick' to the window. You need to make sure the sticky side will be on the outside when you measure it up so it will be the side touching the glass when it is on the inside.

Then spray the film and use the card to run along the tint to push out the water and hold it in place, then trim it to the right size using the knife on the glass, be carefull not to scratch the glass;

Then spray the inside of the glass and stick a piece of tape to either side of the tint at a corner so when you pull the tape apart it sticks to the protective film and removes it;

As you remove the film spray the solution on to the adhesive side, this stops dirt sticking to it and reduces static electricity.

Then offer it up to the window, avoid letting it touch the trim as it will pick up dirt and cause a bubble and slide it in to the trim.

Next, spray the outside of the film to lubricate it and use the card to smooth out air bubbles and tuck the rest of the tint in to the trim, BE CAREFUL not to crease it or scratch it!

Once it is flat cover the card in a piece of paper towel / cloth then force out all the solution to the nearest edge, soaking it up with the towel.

I found it best to look at the outside of the window to see the bubbles more easily.

Then when you are happy move on to the next one!

Hints

Don't do it in direct sunlight as it makes the film stick and hard to position, then don't leave it in direct sunlight once it has been done as it causes grey spots in the tint where it bubbles, they are still smooth but these grey marks can be seen in the right light.

I had to do the rear screen in 3 pieces as it was too curved., if you do this use the heater wires to hide the join (easier said than done!) If you have a heat gun you can use it to shape the one piece on the outside of the glass so it is the right shape when you put it on the inside.

Make sure you clean the gaskets on winding windows and leave a small gap at the top and allow for it to overhang on the bottom where you then tuck it in to the gasket.

Make sure you remove as much of the solution as possible.

If you are left with a few bubbles try to flatten them down later, I left mine over night (in winter) and in the morning some of the solution had evaporated leaving the glue on the film able to stick flat

Take your time!!

I am not 100% happy with the tints but then it cost me £10.99 instead of £250, Maybe if I was to try again I would get a better result but you quickly get annoyed with it!

Hope this helps anyone who fancies having a crack at it, I am glad I did and if I had the time I'd practice more and get a friend to help as it can be awkward on your own.

Good luck!

March 2, 2010

Nice guide and nice job!

For those less brave like me you might want to consider fitted window shades, I got some and they're great. They clip in securely and cover the entire window surface, they do privacy and do a cracking job of keeping the car cool in the summer and blocking glare from those damned xeon lights that used to put my life in danger daily by momentarily preventing me from using my eyes while driving :D which was the main reason I got them.

The added advantage is that you can remove them in around 2 minutes if you don't want them or to clean the windows and they stay in place with the window down (rear) for summer cooling while keeping out the insects.

I may sound like a sponsor but I'm not, just a very satisfied customer, they're not quite as smart looking as Andy's windows but they are pretty tidy.

For the rear windows, quarters and tailgate I think I paid £75 inc delivery on eBay but I've seen them here:

http://www.motocare.co.uk/index.php?option...CFZqY2AodJ1SseQ

These aren't the window socks available which I haven't tried but from what I read they're not quite as straight forward to use nor as smart.

March 2, 2010

Brilliant write up, thanks I might have a go sometime,

where did you buy the tint roll, and what percentage tint was it.

May be this should be added to the maintanence section or stickied?

March 3, 2010

Brilliant write up, thanks I might have a go sometime,
where did you buy the tint roll, and what percentage tint was it.
May be this should be added to the maintanence section or stickied?

I went for a 15% tint (so it lets in 15% of the light so is quite dark) - this is the one I got from eBay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DARK-SMOKE-15-CAR-WI...=item563a369cb3

March 3, 2010

Nice work Andy.

Pinned as requested.

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71649

August 20, 2010

Good write up chap.

I know you have highlighted the fact but you can not clean enough. Clean clean and clean again!!

2 x 99p plant spray type bottles , one with water and 3 or 4 DROPS of CHEAP washing up liquid is just the job and the other with meths in. Also a big roll of kitchen roll.

Clean with soap spray couple of times then meths. Use new razor blade to get any thing left off. couple of times with soap. Dont use anything other than cheap soap (high in detergents , low in other stuff). I am not a valeter but not sure what deposits cleaning clay would leave.

Then clean some more..............

Doing the rear window is pretty easy with a heat gun if you are 'good with your hands' / DIYer type.

Once you have cut tint to size (hint-get someone in the back with a really bright torch- if they shine it thr window and tint when its laid on the outside you can get a really neat finish)

Lay cut film on outside. As above - you want the back of the tint touching the glass and the clear covering film on outside nearest you.

PAY £2 AND BUY A PROPER TOOL for tinting, credit cards etc can scratch tint and you cant get the same purchase(sic) on them.

Once you have as many of the creases out as poss you will have creases where the tint is too inflexible to fit curves of glass. The creases will look like a tree or an aerial shot of a river and tributeries.

GENTLY play the gun on a low heat over these creases , when the tint is hot enough (were talking wafting over for 2 or 3 seconds from a 4 or 5" distance) the creases will go from being 'straight' to looking like a wiggly snake.

Squugie from the centre of glss towards edge.

You now have a perfectly shaped piece of tint to pop on inside.

Have a practice - its quite easy and wasy to get hang of.

You do get what you pay for as everyone and their dog supply it to boy racers. Cheap stuff will discolour 'fade' from UV , is thinner and less heavier in weight and will proably look slightly purple as you look out from inside.