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Port Polishing....


Titto
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A good mate of mine has had several cars tuned by a bloke he knows who races cars.

My mate had a golf and had the ports polished, took about 4-5 days i think he said. Anyway, he reckons the difference was awsome and extrememly noticable.

Has anyone tried this with an SW20 or are they polished as standard?

My car is nearly 12 years old now so i was thinking it may be nice to get it done???

Cheers

Adam

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They won't be polished as standard.

It's only worth polishing and porting the head if you're going to do the same to the inlet manifold, otherwise there's very little point.

The difference can be noticeable, and is definitely worth doing if you're taking the head off to change cams for example. Make sure you get it done properly though and you'll be pleased with the results.

;)

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nice, my mate said the car was sooooo much better after and he is certain the 2 will be also....

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Now i know my head gasket hasnt gone i was contemplating doing something to get some more bhp out of the motor, sounds like a good idea titto. What about a boost valve?

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jamr2 Posted on Apr 28 2004, 11:46 PM

Now i know my head gasket hasnt gone i was contemplating doing something to get some more bhp out of the motor, sounds like a good idea titto. What about a boost valve?

boost valves are paff, had one in my old astra GTE. Wasted fuel and made %$( all difference.

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If anyone's feeling brave, you can get the tools and instructions in a kit from www.frost.co.uk . Costs £34.00.

Am I right in saying it doesn't affect your insurance? Surely, a flowed and polished engine is the same engine, just cleaner and more efficient. It's not modified, just closer to the original design spec (without casting marks etc. ).

For that matter then surely a fully blueprinted engine is just the best the standard engine can be. I had a blueprint done on a mini years ago and the difference was massive. The insurance stayed the same too (though it was through the owners clubs own scheme, not dealing with a call centre in Bombay.)

Rich

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a boost valve bacically stops the actuator seeing the correct boost (it sees a lower boost) and therefor it gets the turbo to work harder and create more power.

there are several sorts ..

A bleed valve - bleeds the air off before the actuator so the turbo is having to do even more work, not good. Cheap Nova boy attempt at getting power.

A Granier Valve - a ball and spring valve, better as it only bleeds off air after it gets to a preset level. Still not ideal, but it got my car to 250 BHP.

Electronic controller - basically the same as a g-valve but using an eletric solenoid. Can be adjusted on the move from inside the car.

Chip - as above but needs a rolling road and a techie to re-map the boost, but will also do fueling etc ..

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