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> Heater, air temp warm when temp set to max/hot
LAA69
post Nov 14 2009, 07:10 PM
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Well they say they have cured the heat on mine bar the vent to the right of the steering wheel, yes 3 vents producing heat but 1 still is not.

They have kept the old A/C Amplifier as requested, so ill post pics of this once i get the car back, fingers crossed yet again for monday, 2 1/2 weeks down the line .........
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FoxX
post Nov 14 2009, 09:38 PM
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QUOTE (LAA69 @ Nov 14 2009, 07:10 PM) *
Well they say they have cured the heat on mine bar the vent to the right of the steering wheel, yes 3 vents producing heat but 1 still is not.

They have kept the old A/C Amplifier as requested, so ill post pics of this once i get the car back, fingers crossed yet again for monday, 2 1/2 weeks down the line .........


Still sounds a bit suspect, I would have hoped they would have sorted this out for you. Would be nice to see the AC amp in any case so we can figure out what it does and how the heck it would affect your heating system blink.gif Thanks for the update!

Must be the weekend of the reverse flush, I had done this once before but may have had the pipes on reverse. Had another go this morning, put the tap pressure upto full and managed to get a bucket full of floating debris out. Ran it until clean and it seems to have improved heating as it now runs on 25 degree with 3 bars. Think i'm gonna have to flush the entire system though or its just gonna clog again.
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morgie
post Nov 15 2009, 01:40 AM
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QUOTE (FoxX @ Nov 14 2009, 10:38 PM) *
Must be the weekend of the reverse flush.


biggrin.gif ....at least one out of three of us got a result from it, good to hear you've got some heat.

LAA69, glad you will also have some heat...although sounds like your passenger will still stay warmer! As FoxX says, still sounds a little suspect. Look forward to the pics.
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blackcts
post Nov 15 2009, 11:56 AM
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Mine is the same, heating has always been limp. Interesting read.
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molveees
post Nov 16 2009, 03:06 PM
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QUOTE (morgie @ Nov 14 2009, 06:07 PM) *
QUOTE (charlyjo @ Nov 14 2009, 04:48 PM) *
just tried reverse flushing mine and its still the same, no debris came out and theres none in the expansion tank,

roll on summer then the aircon will prob break sad.gif


Exactly the same here sad.gif Did the reverse flush - nothing suspicious came out. Also changed the coolant in the car....no difference. One further piece of info on the symptoms (which was the same before the work today) - if I have the heater on full temperature, set to blow to the floor and place my hand in front of the dashboard air vents on the passenger side they do feel warm. As soon as I switch from the floor to the main fans it's just cool air.....lukewarm at best on the passenger side. helpsmilie.gif



Hi
The Reverse flush needs to be done for a length of time. I hope you got good flow out of it. If that hasnt fixed it then its got to be your thermostat. As you have also done the coolant change bleed the air our over the next 60 miles or so regularly as the bubbles move from the corepiping to the radiator & see if that improves anything. watch the water level closely in the radiator, not the expansion tank as it is usually false after a coolant change & doesnt always show true level. Just remove the rad cap & you can easily see the water level directly & refill as needed. For me it was my thermostat that did the job for me. cost just £23 plus 7 quid for the v-ribbed belt which i thought i may as well do as the orld serpentine belt started to show cracks. I dont remember if you mentioned both inlet/outlet pipes being equally hot? take out the glove box from the passenger side & check the temperature of the pipes there. I dont think your diverter is faulty. you have 4 possibilities. bad heater core, bad stat, massive air lock in the core or diverter(which i dont think is bad). The heater circuit really is that simple.
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molveees
post Nov 16 2009, 03:13 PM
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QUOTE (FoxX @ Nov 11 2009, 06:08 PM) *
QUOTE (Tsporter @ Nov 11 2009, 11:04 AM) *
Anyone know is there a bleed screw on the radiator expansion bottle?


You can just unscrew the radiator cap to the left of the expansion bottle.

If your gonna do the reverse flush, its probably a good idea to run the engine from cold for 5 mins with the radiator cap off to release any air bubbles that may be in the system.



Reverse flush wouldnt work the way described. The stat will be shut firmly thus wouldnt allow any flow. In my experience no need to reverse flush the engine block. If you really are keen to clean out the engine block undo the bolt under the engine block to allow the coolant to come out that way & flush the top rubber pipe running towards the engine block from the radiator with garden hose.
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