My How To Gudie On Changing Springs On A Cts

[the punisher]

Hi all

Thought I would do a how to on changing suspension on the CTS, and this probably applies to other models too. Usual disclaimer applies, I’m not a qualified mechanic but I am an experienced DIY mechanic those following or using my guide can not hold me responsible if you screw it up or get injured. This guide is based on fitting Tein Stec lowering springs please refer to the manufacturer of your springs for specialist instruction that I may not cover in this how to.

1. Make sure your get the car on flat level surface first thing your going to need to do is go around and loosen the wheel nuts you can remove the locking nut completely but leave the others on

2. Now you need to jack the car up and support it on axel stand the tow hitch at the front is a good solid jack point there is also a jack point at the back of the spare wheel well…do not be tempted to use the rear axel with the anti roll bar running in it this will flex and bend. Once the car is on the stand continue to remove all wheels. While you’re moving around the car taking off the wheels use something like WD40 to spray the two bolts heads and nuts at the bottom of the front shocks and at the back the one big nut at the bottom of the shock. This will give it time to soak and hopefully help when it comes to loosening these bolts.

3. Locate all four top mounts two are at the front there obvious, I struggled to find the rear ones these are at floor level usually they are around the top of the wheel arch.

FRONT

REAR

3a. To get to the rear mounts you need to remove the boot liner at both sides of the boot there is only one 10mm bolt securing these, to access this bolt situated just in front of the where the seat belt is. Tug at the rear quarter panel the panels just unclip. You have to pull the carpet from under the rear quarter panel and remove the lug holding the carpet down. Continue to tug at the boot liner and it will pull free you can be quite rough with it all; it is very strong and will pop back into shape. What I did was folded it back out the back of the car I did not remove it completely. Once exposed spray this top mount nut with WD40 too.

4. From experience I have learnt to assess all areas before I start work for example there is nothing worse then completing the front then finding out you don’t have the correct tool to do the rear or the rear is seized up. So what I did next we made sure I could loosen all the necessary nuts and bolts. I Started with the nut at the bottom of the rear shocks this is a 19mm I used a 6 point socket as these tend to slip less I also used my trusty 50cm ½ drive breaker bar a must have too to complete this job. Can you remove this nut completely nothing will move do this to both sides. Then move on to the front the two large bolts at the bottom are also 19mm but you need a spanner on one side and your breaker bar on the other loosen these but do not remove them. Loosen the top mounts at the fronts again these are 19mm do not remove completely. Step 4a talks about loosening the rear top mounts these are a little trickier

[the punisher]

4a. Loosening and removing rear top mounts, these top mounts require a 6mm allan key to be put in the top of the shock shaft to stop the shaft turning while you undo the nut. The thing is there is not enough room to put the key in the top of the shock straight the body is in the way and so the key goes in at an angle. That is bad news do not attempt to loosen the rear with the key at an angle it will round of the top of the shock and then you’re in bother. What I did was to ‘adjust’ the offending body with a hammer until the key sat straight in the top of the shock don’t worry it only needs to move about 2mm a few quick hits and you’re good to go. You need a 17mm spanner for the nut put the 0 ring end over the nut and put in the key, try and loosen it, tight isn’t it? Ok well find a tubular piece of metal that you can put over the allan key for more leverage and better grip I used half an old garden brolly shaft I found lying about outside. Repeat for the other side do not remove the nuts completely.

5. Safety first treat compressed springs with respect invest in a set of coil spring clamps the clamps keep the tension in the springs after they have come off the car and allow you to release this pressure slowly and safely. Position the jack under the rear axel behind the brake disk to take the weight of the disk and hub assembly. Continue to take off the top nut. Once free lower the jack slowly you can now push off the shock from its mounting shaft. It’s a good idea to put something under the hub assembly to support it for when you take off the other side I used another axel stand.

6. Well done we have one shock off the car, and we know the others are loose so the rest of the change will run smoothly. Release the clamps slowly uncompressing the spring. Repeat step 5 for the other side. Be sure to remember what shock came from what side.

7. With both shock off we are ready to cut down the bump stops following the instruction that came with the Tein springs. Check your individual manufactures guide lines to see if this is necessary with your springs. I’m taking 15mm off the top of the bump stops marked here with a black line. Any saw should cut through them try and make it is as flat as possible on top.

8. Reassemble the rear shock and spring assembly with your new springs around the shock. Push the top of the shock through the hole it came out of and push the bottom of the shock on to its mounting, raise the hub assembly using the jack so there is a good amount of thread showing inside the car on where the top mount is. Thread on the nut we removed and tighten, tighten using the same technique we used to remove it using a 6mm allan key, large bar and 17mm spanner. Next put on the washer and 19mm nut that came off the bottom fixing I put some grease around the thread so if I need to take it off in the future it should not be stuck fast. Tighten this up good and tight I used my breaker bar to tighten the nut this will allow you to get it tighter then a short handled spanner. (I do not know correct torque maybe someone does)

Repeat for the other side. Well done you have completed the back but your only half done there is still the front to do.

9. The fronts are going to be very similar to the back so safety first and let’s get those spring clamps on and a jack under the wish bone to take the weight of the hub and disk assembly. We are first going to undo the small 12mm bolt holding on the abs sensor wire and brake hose bracket. Next the two big bolts at the bottom of the shock to do this use a 19mm socket on one side and a 19mm spanner on the other side. I found I had to keep turning to get the bolt to come all the way out even once the nut was off. Once loose pull the disk and hub assembly away and roll over to one side. Undo the top nut the shock will fall free. If you replacing just the springs you will not need to disconnect the ARB from the shock if you are changing the shock you will need too. You can position the cables, hoses shocks and hub so you can get the spring off but leaving the shock in the wheel arch.

10. Remove the spring clamps safely and slowly to release the spring pressure. Following individual manufactures instruction for tein it says to remove 30mm from the front bump stops that’s just below the white plastic band indicated using the black line

[the punisher]

11. We are going to reassemble this side before removing the next side. Reassemble the spring and all components on to the shock. Manoeuvre the shock so the top thread locates into the top mount hole and secure with the top mount nut a couple of turns will do we don’t need this tight yet just so it holds up the shock. Manoeuvre the shock and hub assembly so the two holes line up perfectly and the bolts slide in with ease you may need to raise and lower the wish bone on the jack until they line up. Once bottom bolts are in place tighten the top nut. Tighten the bottom nuts on the bolts again I do not know the correct torque I just tighten them real tight using the breaker bar. Assemble the abs sensor wire and brake hose bracket again and secure with the 12mm bolt you removed.

12. Repeat steps 9 10 and 11 for the other front shock and spring. Put the wheels back on remove from axel stands check wheel nut tightness once on the floor stand back and admire.

Took me about 5 hours in total and I had to work out how to do it! Really happy with the Tein set and very happy with how much it has lowered the car the handling is much improved and it was good with the standard springs also it has not comprised comfort.

Admin use this how you like, i did it in mind it would get added to the how to sticky at the top of the page as when i went to see how to do it there wasnt one

Cheers

Joel

[nrgizerbunny]

this needs to be made a stifcky

[clueless1980]

this needs to be made a stifcky

Im doing mine a week today and this will be my bible, good job fella.

really impressed

[ricc]

Im sorry but your pictured use of the spring clamps is outrageously dangerous. They shoul be on opposite sides of the spring. A slip of a spanner or knocking them and someone could do themselves serious harm.

Nice tutorial but a complete SAFETY FAIL!