Aygo Knowledgebase

[+Steve]

I have had a chat with SJandAYGO and she has agreed to help us build a nice knowledgebase of Aygo How to's for the Aygo Club.

I am currently working hard to get something in place as we speak.

What we are looking for is some Tips and tricks, How to's or installation info or anything that would be a great resource for the Aygo owner to add to the knowledgebase. So we would love for you guys to submit some knowledgebase articles (with pics) in this thread. We will then move it to the official area for all the see which will be shared on aygo club and TOC.

We will give you credit and add your name to each submission.

If a member posts more than 10 good articles (please no one liners) then I will send you a free Aygo Club Shirt later in the year.

Here is how we would like to see the articles.

• Title (eg. How to change rear brake light bulb)
  
• The actual instructions
  
• Any Pics (if needed)
  
• Possible tools required (if needed)
  

Post in this thread.

cheers

[SJandMR2]

Hi,

As Steve has said they are developing the forum for the club and I know we would all agree a good a section on useful information such how to etc, would be fantastic! There has been some excellent contributions to the forum on technical advice, mods etc and it would be really great if you could post them here so that we can build a useful section.

I am certainly not an expert in the how to's department, but will start with a simple example for an easy mod I have done (with some help).

How to change the Indicator Light bulbs on the Aygo

Required

Offset Chrome Indicator bulbs

Tools

Flathead screwdriver

Instructions

Locate the connector which is behind the headlamp, directly behind the indicator bulb itself. The bulb holder itself is grey.

Remove (you may need to use the flat head screwdriver) the wire locking tab on the connector, and pull it off (don’t lose it).

Twist the unit anti-clockwise and withdraw the bulb holder. It is a tight fit so might need some elbow grease.

You'll see then see the bulb. Push the old bulb inwards and rotate anti-clockwise, as you would a normal bulb.

Then replace with the new bulb in the same way! Place the connector back in and secure with the locking tab, and twist back into place.

Tip!

Start with the left indicator as it is easier to access, the right one is behind the Battery and harder to locate and you may need to twist off the unit before removing the locking pin as it is difficult to reach.

No picture of the how to but a picture of the after!!

So get posting :D

SJx

[Jan van de Wouw]

There's no need to remove the connector from the fitting; there's enough slack to change the bulb while connected.

If you DO need to or wat to disconnect, just PINCH on the connector, depressing the little wire-bridge.

This will cause the two bits at the sides to move outward, allowing you to pull off the connector.

If anyone is interested I can translate my Dutch how-to on installing a switch

for operating the passenger electric window from the drivers side into English?

[SJandMR2]

Hi

Well I was told by a techie to remove the connector, but am sure it could probably be done without, I did it as a better safe than sorry move, and as I said I am not an expert. And yes you could squeeze it out the pin but when I did it was very tricky and stiff and the screwdriver was a useful aid in prising it off which is why I added the "you may need to use a screwdriver"

And yes you have contributed some excellent how to's to the section and the passenger light one would be excellent! :D

SJx

[+Steve]

If anyone is interested I can translate my Dutch how-to on installing a switch

for operating the passenger electric window from the drivers side into English?

That would be excellent if you could.. thanks

[+Steve]

Just to make things clear the Knowledgebase area will be outside the forums and on another part of the website. So tip swill not get lost inside foruim threads. It will all be documented.

[Lakeuk]

This kind of thing is going to be an excellent resource, what would also be a good idea is if a new subforum could be added to host this and also general maintainance dicussion, maybe called 'Maintainance / How-To', with a sticky thread at the top linking to separate How-To threads in the subforum.

As a good few Aygo's will be coming past there 3yrs, I expect more people will be wanting to do the easier diy maintainance jobs on their cars, and this subforum will help anyone doing this kind of thing to ask questions on problems they've got that other members may have experienced.

An example where this kind of thing is working very well is over at http://www.renaultforums.co.uk, my last car was a megane and in general the problems were usual to what you'd get during a life of any car but I did have a couple of problems which felt very serious and I'd expect to be charged an arm/leg from a garage to diagnous let alone fix. Using renaultforums I posted my problems and found loads of info/help from others who had experienced to same problems, and it turned out the problems (below) were easy for anyone to fix.

Problem: No power to start engine

Cause: Wire to starter worked loose through engine vibration - common problem - 1min fix time

Problem: Car goes into kargaroo fit when pulling away unless hi revs are used

Cause: Cracks in rubber pipe to MAP sensor - common problem - £6 for new pipe, 10min fix time

All we need now is for Haynes to publish a manual for the Aygo (what happened to the Toyota manual that used to be available online)

[Jan van de Wouw]

Installing double controls for the Passenger Electric window

Since the Aygo and its sistercars the C1 and 107 were built as budget-

cars, the controls for the Power Windows are simple; just a pod with

a switch instead of the standard handle. More expensive cars usually

have a button on the drivers door to control all other windows too,

without the need to reach across the car or contort yourself.

With two relays, a switch, a couple of yards of wire and part

of an afternoon of work you can replicate this functionality.

Here's the end result:

Please wait a few seconds for Video to load!

The standard control on the door itself stays functional, so

both passenger and driver have full control. Should both give

opposite commands at the same time the window will just stop.

The basic schematic

Please note that lefthand and righthand apply to my LHD-car. Read Drivers side for lefthand and Passenger side for righthand

The colors shown here correspond with the actual colors in the car as much as possible.

Since I have a LHD car I'm not sure if the colors are the same on a RHD-version.

For the colors of the extra wiring I've used the actual colors

I used myself, but you're free to use any color you like.

What's needed?

• Two relays SPDT, i.e. Hella "4RD 003 520-08"
  These are standard automotive relays,
  but with 5 spades instead of the usual 4
  
• A couple of sockets for the relays for ease of installation.
  If you can't get these or don't want to you can just use spade connectors
  
• A momentary switch SPDT with three positions.
  You can also use two momentary pushbuttons if preferred.
  
• About 30' of wire. You need 1,5mm^2 wire (AWG 15) for the wires that carry the
  motor load, for the wires across the car you can suffise with 0,5mm^2 (AWG 20)
  

The tools needed depend on your choice of making connections, I allways

solder connections in a car, but you can also use crimp-connectors.

So depending on your choice you need a soldering iron + soldering wire,

heat shrink tubing + a heat source to shrink the tube, wire cutters,

a wire stripper, crimp connectors + the pliers to crimp them,

screwdrivers, electrical tape and a knife.

Relays will set you back about £3 each, the sockets are about £2 each,

a switch can be had for as little as £1 and If you choose to use one

color wiring for everything you'll need about 30' or 1,5mm^2 (AWG15)

which will probably be about £8 for a reel of 30'.

The relays shoud look something like this:

I used sockets for the relays as this simplifies wiring and it also

allows you to exchange the relays quite easy should this be neccesary.

The ones I used look like this:

These can be threaded together, creating a nice row of relays.

If you can't find these sockets you can also use plugs instead of

single spade connectors. These will still keep the wiring in the

right order, but canot be used to mount the relays themselfves...

The switch I used is a rocker switch, but you can also use a tumbler if you prefer,

as long as it's SPDT with a center position to which it returns after use.

What do I need to do?

A quick recap:

• Using the original switch, open the window half way
  
• Turn off the ignition and put the key in your pocket,
  so no one can accidentally turn it on again.
  
• Snip the wires going from the switch to the motor,
  these will likely be red and green.
  
• Connect each of the wires from the motor
  to the nr.30-contact on each of the relays
  
• Connect the wires from the switch to the nr.87A-contact,
  make sure you keep the wires paired, so the red wire for the
  motor is on the same relay as the red wire from the switch.
  
• Now check if the factory switch still operates the window,
  then turn off the ignition again and re-pocket the key.
  
• Connect the nr.85-contact of both relays together and connect them to ground.
  You can splice into the black wire at the switch for the easiest connection.
  
• Applying +12V on the nr.86 conatcts of either of the
  relays will render the factory switch inoperable.
  
• Connect the nr.87-contact of both relays together and connect them to +12V.
  You can splice into the white wire at the switch for the easiest connection.
  
• Applying +12V to either nr.86-contact now ill cause the window to run up or down.
  If you accidentally swapped the 87 and 30 contacts the fuse will blow, so be carefull!
  The fuse for the PowerWindows is located behind the dash and it is a very specific
  size and shape, so you probably will not have one lying around...
  
• Now runs wires from both nr.86-contacts to where you want your Auxilary switch to be.
  
• Each wire is connected to one of the outer contacts of your switch.
  
• Connect the center contact to +12V after ignition, the yellow
  wire if you choose to put the switch in the drivers door.
  
• Basically you're done now! Straighten up everything, button up the door(s) and enjoy!
  

Now what does all of this look like?

The switch in the passenger door.

Normally there would be just 4 wires, no more.

I snipped the motorwires and spliced the power-feed.

You can see them running down into the extra loom, together

with the white and brown wires from the auxilary switch.

Both SPDT relays on the inside of my door card.

Placed in sockets and srewed into the plastic.

If yours is a 3-drs you'll need to relaocat the relays, as the

door card then had a foam block instead of the plastic reinforcements.

At rest the factory switch puts both sides of the motor to ground.

The motor-wires are connected to the middle-contact of the relays, the rest-

position is connected to the switch. Both active contacts are connected to +12V.

Both relay-coils are hooked up to ground on one side and have wires

running through the car to the new switch on the other contact.

At the other side of the car they connect to this switch.

The center contact of this switch is hooked up to +12V too,

so pressing the switch activates one relay in the passenger door,

thus switching one of the motor wires from ground to +12V making it move!

Here's where I put my auxilary switch

I chose to put it there since it's within reach and doesn't stand out.

This also enabled me to use the +12V switched from the door switch, eliminating

the need for extra fuses as everything extra still runs from the same circuit.

Should you want to put the extra switch somewhere else you'll need to find a

+12V feed after ignition there...

DONE!!!

Should you not understand some of the bits written above you

should ask yourself if it would be smart to try this yourself...

Questions or remarks are welcome and as allways the usual disclaimers apply...

PS. I also have a second modification to the windows, involving two one-touch modules AND

a dual control, but I still need to write that up in Dutch, so a trnslation might take some while...

[+Steve]

absolutely excellent write up!!

[Unklian]

How to stop your Alloy wheels sticking on.

Required:

Copper based Anti-seize compound.

Tools:

Wheel brace or better, Torque Wrench. jack & Wheel Chock

Instructions:

Several people on the Toyota Aygo Forum have experienced

difficulty in removing alloy wheels from their cars when

they had a puncture.

This is caused mainly by corrosion due to salt, moisture and

having bare aluminium (The Wheel) and bare steel (The Hub) in direct contact.

Now summer is here, take a few hours to sort the problem out

and prevent any future problem.

I hope this isn't patronising but some people aren't mechanically minded so......

First: Off to the shops (Halfords etc. or ebay) and buy some Copper Grease.

This may be branded Coppaslip, Coppagrease or similar......

Secure the car for jacking one front corner.

Handbrake applied firmly.

AYGO in gear. (If you have MMT, ignition on, foot on brake,

lever into "R", ignition off).

Chock behind diagonaly opposite wheel.

Slacken all four wheel bolts about three turns.

The weight of the car should now dislodge the wheel slightly.

jack up the AYGO until the wheel is JUST clear of the floor.

Remove the wheel bolts fully and take off the wheel.

At this stage, get mucky......

Clean the rear of the wheel. I use a kitchen sponge and

liquid Flash or any similar multisurface cleaner.

Wash it all off and allow to dry.

Polish the rear of the wheel with normal car polish / wax etc......

dab the Copper Grease on the mating surface of the wheel.

(The brown bit).

Dab some onto the mating surface of the hub too.

Especially the central locating flange. (Yellow Arrow).

Apply Copper Grease to the wheel bolts.

ONLY on the threads. NOT on the tapered or conical part.

Replace the wheel and hand tighten the bolts.

Lower the AYGO to the floor and fully tighten the bolts

in a diagonal manner.

Torque setting is 103Nm (+-15Nm) 76lbf (+-10lbf)

Cup of tea, the the other front wheel......

Cup of tea, the rear pair......

On the rears, the wheel backs should be much cleaner.

Only Copper Grease the area of the drum brakes shown......

Again, paying attention to the raised flange. (Yellow Arrow).

Wheels all back on......admire your handywork......

Round the AYGO one last time to check tightness of all bolts.

Job done:

Next time, with a rainy winter roadside puncture......

Wheel straight off !

[+Steve]

excellent again.. thanks.

I will be adding these soon to the knowledge area.

[adilmon]

ok, let's get the basics out of the way;

-oil change

-Air filter change

-Spark plug change

-Fuel filer change

more difficult ones;

-valve clearance check/adjustment

-Brake pad/shoe change

-Brake disc change

The diesel Aygo uses the same HDI engine found in the peugeot 206 (haynes manual already availabel), so really only looking for petrol owner/volenteers to post pics of the above mentioned jobs :D

[SJandMR2]

Big Bump

Come on you clever people, we need more :D

[Batfink]

I'm going to do an oil change this weekend, so I'll 'bagsy' that one and take photos while I do it so I can post a step by step guide early next week.

I hadn't actually seen this thread until today, and was planning to produce guides for people to do their own Minor and Major services, so I'll keep that plan going and make them as soon as mine or my brothers car needs them.

I'm open to suggestions too - otherwise I'll just wait until stuff brakes or wares out!

Batfink x

[Paul Gi]

Well i might as well contribute toward this as well lol

Anywho here's one of a few to come: -

How to change/replace your interior light

Tools Required: - 1x Flat Blade Screwdriver

Part Fitted: - Brighter Bulb

Time Taken: - No more than 5 minutes (and even that's pushing it)

Step 1

First of you need to pry the light away from its fixing by lodging a flat blade screwdriver into the slot shown in the photo below: -

Step 2

Then once you've pulled it out you can then choose to either leave it connected to its harness or unplug by removing the green plug seen below (i left it in as it's a fairly quick job).

Remove the bulb holder from the light lens housing by pushing in the grey clips where my fingers are: -

Step 3

Once done you then have access to the bulb - simply pull it out...

Step 4

And then install the new one, and for this i've installed a 4 LED Blue bulb in mine. (Note: If you insert a wedge-style LED equivalent and notice it doesn't work, pull it out and rotate it 180 degress. I noticed this when i installed it for the first time)

Step 5

Now once the bulb has been inserted it's time to fit the bulb holder back into the light lens housing through the corresponding hole below: -

Step 6

Once the bulb holder and lens housing have clicked back together, it's a simple matter of putting it back in. You first of all angle it like i have below, make sure the black light toggle switch is pushed to the left and then push the other end up to click the whole thing back into place like the arrows demonstrate: -

Horizontal arrow first then vertical arrow second

Step 7

Admire your handy work!

Apologies for the crappy close-up pics - its a £30 Hitachi 5mp Digital Camera but it'll suffice!

[Ecoboy]

good guide...thanks

set your camera to manual focus to sharpen up on the actual light

[SJandMR2]

Thats fantastic Paul

[Paul Gi]

good guide...thanks

set your camera to manual focus to sharpen up on the actual light

My camera doesn't have that adjustability - checked the camera and the manual... The settings are at Standard as opposed to Fine however since i do not have an SD Card at the moment the standard setting will do for the majority of the how to's in here that i post up...

And now for another one...

How to change your heater module to glow Blue

Yes it's time to see how this job is done, i'm using blue LED bulbs however you can change them to whatever colour you like...

Tools Required: - 1x Star-headed Screwdriver, 1x Flat-head Screwdriver

Parts Fitted: - 2x 286 T5 LED Dashboard bulbs in Blue

Time Taken: - Approximately 10-15 minutes

Step 1

First of all set your heater fan speed to II (the middle of them all) then pry off the control knob using a flat blade screwdriver like so: -

Step 2

Then you need to take out the screw behind where the control knob sat with the star-headed screwdriver: -

Step 3

Using the flat headed screwdriver, pry off the radio/centre dash trim off just enough so you can get your fingers underneath there and pull it out from the bottom first working your way up the sides

Step 4

Once removed disconnect the Stereo connectors...

Step 5

...And the other connectors plugged into their relevant dash switches (NOTE: If your car has not got A/C then the blank has a socket where this plug goes into) And Step's 4 & 5 are advisable so you have maximum amount of room to maneuvre

Step 6

Holding the big white connector (as demonstrated below) try and use your middle finger to locate the spring clip thing that helps you unclip the white connector from the bigger white socket thing: -

Step 7

Once the whtie plug has been disconnected, get your screwdriver (ideally a star headed one) and find the side locating "lug" as shown below.

Do NOT pry it off just push the head in towards yourself and the plug WILL come loose...

Step 8

...And do the same for the other side

Step 9

And here's what the Heater Module Bulb Holder unit looks like

Step 10

Pull out the 2 bulbs there and you will notice a brown rubber bulb cover on each

[Paul Gi]

Step 11

Remove them and carefully put them on the new bulbs before putting the bulbs back in

Step 12

Put the Heater Module Bulb Holder unit back into it's original place ensuring it clicks into place and re-connect the white plug you disconected earlier

Step 13

Re-connect all plugs before re-fitting the centre radio dash assembly

Step 14

Admire your handy work!

[Paul Gi]

How to change the Rear Number Plate Lights

Tools Required: - 1x Flat-headed Screwdriver

Parts Fitted: - 2x 501 9-LED Wedge bulbs

Time Taken: - No more than 3 minutes at worst

Step 1

This is how it all looks with the standard filament bulbs in place: -

Step 2

First up you insert the screwdriver's flat head into the square hole you see there

Step 3

Then holding it like in the pic below, you rotate the lens assembly anti-clockwise (rotate the lens toward you, if you're holding it like i am in the pic below)

Step 4

And here's the old bulb, just simply pull it out...

Step 5

...And replace it with the new bulb

Note

Make sure you align the "lugs" on the bulb holder to the holes on the lens assembly like below: -

Step 6

Re-attach holder to the lens assembly and rotate clockwise until it clicks in and then fit the number plate light back into the bumper in the same way you fit the interior light assembly in my last write up

Step 7

Admire your handy work!

[Ecoboy]

led stop/tails on their way paul

they are 'ultraleds' with side and top leds

[adilmon]

Is this the only Aygo knowledgebased thread?

[SJandMR2]

Yep, needs more knowledge ;)

[Paul Gi]

Picture for Replacing Heater Housing bulbs has now been updated :) Have already fitted a head-unit so will post up a How-To as soon as i can

[+Steve]

i will add these to the KB shortly... i am in the middle of moving house but when i get a spare 5 mins i will pop it up... looking good!