Few Questions When I Get My Hands On My New Tr

[Sico2]

Hello all,

I still have 2 weeks until I can take my little red bug for a spin, but already have plenty of questions that I hope you can answer me.

1.Does the car get delivered to me fully tanked or do they practise like some dealers, with a splash of petrol in the tank (2-3l) just to get you going to a station?

2.I am planning to replace Yaris' standard wipers for Bosch silicon ones. Will it affect my warranty in any way, can the dealership have an issue regarding this?

3.Will I get any cleaning kit with the car like shampoo, wax, paint protector or similar?

4.Can I replace my standard front light bulbs for other ones, brighter, xenon or similar? As in point 2, any warranty issues?

5.I will have the front lights height regulator on side of the dashboard. I understand it is for setting the beam lower in case of high weight being carried on the back of the car. If I just run the car with 2 people on board (fron seats) do I leve them on '0'? How to recognize which setting is right for me with some eight?

6.I've read that if you live close to sea (I have Mersey coast about 300m away from my driveway) you have to clean your undercarriage with a hose with clean water every month or so, due to salt concentration on the parts and higher possibility of corrosion. How much needed is it in reality?

At the moment that's all. I am sure, I'll come up with some more ;)

[reece]

1; about a third full unless you negotiated a ’Full tank of fuel’ when you done the deal

2; No

3; See answer number 1

4; Standard Yaris headlights are very bright, shouldn’t be a warranty issue unless you short circuit something and fry your wiring loom!

5; with 2 people on board and an empty boot the 0 setting should be OK, I’m sure you will get flashed by oncoming cars if your alignment is too high

6; No harm in giving your underside a wash when you do the top side, only takes a couple of minutes and is recommended even if you don’t live by the sea

[Sico2]

1.you have to agree with the dealership on fuel? Sounds like a deal in Egypt or Turkey, where you have to haggle quite often. But 1/3rd tank is ok. Back in Poland my fiancée's father bought Citroën Berlingo, where he got in it so little petrol, that after 10 miles or so he went flat and had to walk to nearest petrol station on foot.

3.They've given me a leaflet of all these Toyota-garage-using cosmetics and liquids and waxes for my car but ain't saying anything about a price, if I get some, if I can buy or whatever.

4.I'll probably leave my bulbs as they are, rather than fiddle about with them.

6.The undercarriage splash sounds maybe reasonable, but how to get under there? Lying on a floor with the hose sounds bit difficult. Isn't regular water access to undercarriage rather cause more harm than use? I mean splashing the parts regularly mause cause more rust building than the original salt concentration?

[waxxy]

1; about a third full unless you negotiated a ’Full tank of fuel’ when you done the deal

2; No

3; See answer number 1

4; Standard Yaris headlights are very bright, shouldn’t be a warranty issue unless you short circuit something and fry your wiring loom!

5; with 2 people on board and an empty boot the 0 setting should be OK, I’m sure you will get flashed by oncoming cars if your alignment is too high

6; No harm in giving your underside a wash when you do the top side, only takes a couple of minutes and is recommended even if you don’t live by the sea

i got my tr a few weeks ago and i had 20 pounds of petrol in it so it was 2 3rds full..you do get a leather cleaning kit..buit no wax/shampoo..etc but if you ask them they will give you free wax /shampoo with 2 clening products purchased .

i wouldnt change the bulbs the new trs are very very bright and you have a excellent movement control to dip or raise them i judged mine by shining it at my house and adjusted them according to the shadows lol.

also i cant see the point in changing the Wiper Blades ive used mine every day (because of the great british weather) and there also excelent id save your money unti they need changing the tr is a quality car nd i know ive moaned about it over the last few weeks but ive calmed down and really love driving it now..thanks reece for teling it too me straight mate lol.

only thing i am gonna do is replace the stereo and fit rear Speakers then thts it until i buy aloys for it next year.

[waxxy]

1.you have to agree with the dealership on fuel? Sounds like a deal in Egypt or Turkey, where you have to haggle quite often. But 1/3rd tank is ok. Back in Poland my fiancée's father bought Citroën Berlingo, where he got in it so little petrol, that after 10 miles or so he went flat and had to walk to nearest petrol station on foot.

3.They've given me a leaflet of all these Toyota-garage-using cosmetics and liquids and waxes for my car but ain't saying anything about a price, if I get some, if I can buy or whatever.

4.I'll probably leave my bulbs as they are, rather than fiddle about with them.

6.The undercarriage splash sounds maybe reasonable, but how to get under there? Lying on a floor with the hose sounds bit difficult. Isn't regular water access to undercarriage rather cause more harm than use? I mean splashing the parts regularly mause cause more rust building than the original salt concentration?

in the uk the cleaning products are under 5 pounds..i paid about 8.50 for interior spray/upholstery shampoo nd i got a free big bottle of car wax shampoo.i see you dont live in the uk so your grage may be different but reece is right you have to haggle like a jew going to a brothel to get a good deal at the garage when you order it .i wouldnt worry mate youll probably get paranoid when you first get it like i did but once you settle down after a month or so youll love it ..when the weather gets good ill post pics of my black beauty :)

[Sico2]

Me from abroad? We live 22 miles apart :)

I'll probably leave most of the items in tact as they are, and as you say, will settle down after a month or so.

As a Jew to a brothel.. nice one.. I'll ask the dealer in 2 weeks time what can he offer me.

[Mick G]

1. I picked my new one up from the local dealer with half a tank in it, was plenty for a start and we hadn't discussed it before. My previous one I bought new through a broker and as soon as I started it up the low-fuel bar was flashing. The broker's depot was on the other side of town so I didn't know how much was left or how far to the nearest garage - not a good start!

2. See how you get on with the ones already fitted. Mine are working perfectly after a few months and I can't see them needing changing for ages. If you did change them (though there's no need to begin with) it should have no impact on the warranty.

3. I didn't. It's all on sale in the showroom but you'd need to get your wallet out and presumably be paying over the odds.

4. As mentioned earlier the headlights on the new model are perfectly adequate (good even). On my previous Yaris, 2004 model, they could have done with being replaced as soon as I got it but these are MUCH better. Again, see how you get on with them.

5. The manual does cover this (yes, I read most of it). It goes along the lines of set to 0 with 1 or 2 peeps, set to 1 with 2 peeps plus luggage, 3 for 3 peeps etc. I can't remember the numbers exactly but it does cover it quite well. That said, I suppose it's up to you and the conditions you're driving in but don't set it overly high when not needed or it'll cheese everyone else on the road off. Check the manual for the details.

6. I live about as far from the sea as you can get :( so I can't really comment on that. But my first car was an old Mini bought off my aunt who lives on the west coast and it had more holes than metal! Coincidence? Toyotas come with a "12 years unlimited mileage anti-corrosion & perforation warranty" if that puts your mind at rest (although what it covers is anyone's guess).

Hope this helps,

Mick

[alfiejts]

All above info is good, but here's my two-penneth.

1) Replace the wipers with PIAA Silicone wipers. They're absolutely excellent in the rain, they make aq real difference and you'll never go back to anyone else's wipers again....

The only issue on the Yaris is that the near side blade is just 14" and the smallest PIAA wiper is 15 inch.

I bought a 24 inch PIAA wiper for the driver side and a 15-inch "refill" blade for the passenger side. I swapped the blade over in the existing wiper arm and cut the extra inch of rubber off...

Got mine from Auto Performance Products http://www.a-pp.com

2) Replace the headlight bulbs with Philips X-Treme H4 bulbs. They're 80% brighter than standard bulbs and are noticeable brighter. They are also nicely chrome tipped so look nice in the headlights. Less than £20 target price from eBay shops...

3) Replace the front indicator bulbs with Philips Silver Vision chrome-effect bulbs. (and get the Philips ones not a cheaper unknown make). Target price £11 on eBay shops.

That will remove the orange indicator bulb that spoils the front look of the car. The bulbs look chrome until they flash...

None of that will affect warranty as they're all consumable items.

I've used the werkstat acrylic kit paint protection system from polishedbliss and had really good results.... Its not cheap but its easy to use and gives a great finish.

I also got some "original" floor mats off eBay. I bought non-Toyota tailored ones first from eBay, but the driver's side has worn through in under 12 months - so go for "original" ones. Got mine for less than £20....

What next? Use a good wax on the engine bay metal parts to stop them corroding with salt spray in the winter.

I did our "new yaris" when new and its still fine. I picked up a second Yaris 9 months old and the engine cover was really corroded. I really had to use a lot of effort and metal polish to clean off the corrosion...

[stantheman1]

I found the easiest way to keep the engine bay clean and corrosion free is to use silicone spray once a month,(spray and wipe) it keeps the plastics looking new and the alloy rocker cover shiny and clean, I also spray the drive belts and pulleys this stops rust building up in the pulley grooves and at the same time eliminating noisey belts which is caused by excess water spilling over onto the belt and pulleys every time you wash the car ( I think it's a design fault ) I don't know if it does it when it's put through the auto carwash as I always wash ours by hand, but as anyone else experienced this problem?

[alfiejts]

Yes - It doesn't seem to get wet under the bonnet when it rains - but whenever I use a hose or jetwash to clean the car, there's water all over the engine bay.

I have to dry it off after each wash.....

I was trying to work out just how the "corrosion spatter" could have happened on the used Yaris we bought - after all, it had only done 7000 miles and suffered just one winter as a garage demonstrator....

But I think you've just helped me realise...

If the car was covered in salt from the road after driving in bad conditions and was then jetwashed clean, the salt laden dirty water will have been driven under the bonnet and splattered across the engine bay....

I think that's probably the answer to my dilemma....

I've even had to take the airfilter box off and remove the spark plug coils to clean the corrosion off the cam cover properly....

Cheers Stan...

[reece]

3.Will I get any cleaning kit with the car like shampoo, wax, paint protector or similar?

I can highly recommend Auto Glym Aqua Wax; you get 2 micro fibre cloths with it (which I wash in the washing machine after every use for the next time) and is very easy to use.

Spray on, use one cloth to spread and use the other cloth to buff, job done and your car can still be wet in places.

[waxxy]

lol sorry mate i thought you lived in norway lol..when i checked i was looking at a different post lol..

[Sico2]

I've read some promising reviews about AutoGlym products. Maybe I'll get myself a full kit with sponges and everything that's needed.

The little booklet that Toyota gives you, describes some products called Sid Supgard, but I've seen on this forum people are bit sceptic. Toyota seem to be bribed to recommend you Supagard's products.

[alfiejts]

Go onto Autoexpress.co.uk and look a ttheir product reviews. They test everything out, so whatever you want, you can get an independent review there and find out what came out best in their tests...

I used Autoglym for years and it gave a good shine but its not as durable as some other stuff, so it doesn't protect as long and you have to redo it more often.

Autoexpress say that Turtlewax Platinum Extreme Gloss (or somehting like) is the best they've tested recently as its an excellent shine that lasts longer than all the others incl Autoglym.

I've had great results from the Werkstat Acrylic kit from polished bliss - but realise that some people don't want to spend £50 on polish, no matter how good it is...

[Mick G]

I've read some promising reviews about AutoGlym products. Maybe I'll get myself a full kit with sponges and everything that's needed.

The little booklet that Toyota gives you, describes some products called Sid Supgard, but I've seen on this forum people are bit sceptic. Toyota seem to be bribed to recommend you Supagard's products.

Aye, my situation a few months ago went along the lines of...

"Can I buy a car please"

"Yes of course, would you like it with SupaGard?"

"No thanks"

....

"Your car is ready to pick up on Thursday, would you like us to SupaGard it?"

"No thanks"

....

"Here's your keys sir, this is your last chance for us to SupaGard it. Would you like us to SupaGard it?"

"No thanks. Bye"

I got the feeling they wanted me to SupaGard it! I was dreaming about freakin' SupaGard but the end of it all :)

Mick

[alfiejts]

To his credit, even the salesman told me it wasn't worth it when he was asking me about Supaguard....

He had to follow the script...

Oh and don't go for the Toyota GAP insurance either - you can buy the same cover much cheaper on the 'net if you want it.

I got 3yrs GAP cover for £109 compared to over £350 for Toyota's own.....

[Raeman]

I've read some promising reviews about AutoGlym products. Maybe I'll get myself a full kit with sponges and everything that's needed.

The little booklet that Toyota gives you, describes some products called Sid Supgard, but I've seen on this forum people are bit sceptic. Toyota seem to be bribed to recommend you Supagard's products.

Aye, my situation a few months ago went along the lines of...

"Can I buy a car please"

"Yes of course, would you like it with SupaGard?"

"No thanks"

....

"Your car is ready to pick up on Thursday, would you like us to SupaGard it?"

"No thanks"

....

"Here's your keys sir, this is your last chance for us to SupaGard it. Would you like us to SupaGard it?"

"No thanks. Bye"

I got the feeling they wanted me to SupaGard it! I was dreaming about freakin' SupaGard but the end of it all :)

Mick

Sounds like Toyota get a percentage of the Supagard costs then.

Sounds like the sort of crap they spray on your seats/carpets and then tell you it won't stain for 3yrs!! :censor:

Yeah right!! That's why i have black leather in the family car! Kids don't go in the Yaris.

[Sico2]

I already checked the quote Toyota offers for normal car insurance. In my case it was around £600. The cheapest I could find was about £420 with other insurers. I think I'll pass.

Supagardit :D sounds like "Would like supersize with it?" as in /\/\c

btw.what's the order of washing a car anyway, water with shampoo, wipe it dry, apply paint protector, apply wax[Obviously wax comes every few months or so.]? what are these paint protectors or all the polishes?

[alfiejts]

Have a look at Toybota's post in the detailing section. He's done a guide...

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=100559

There's loads of other stuff to look through elsewhere in the forum there too.

Also (when it comes back on line later tonight) have a look at the detailing section of the audi-sport.net forum. There are loads of guides posted on there. Should tell you all you need to know....

I'll put a link on here when I can next get to it....

There are also some guides on http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk, where I've bought a lot of my stuff recently....

[jonnyl]

Hi,

When you pick up your new Yaris spend a good deal of time checking all the specs eg has it actually got 6 Speakers, chrome trim, mirrors on the visors, pockets on the seats, what wheels / trims.

The spec on these TRs vary alot depending on engine size and if there is an R in the month!

Jon

[Sico2]

Hi,

When you pick up your new Yaris spend a good deal of time checking all the specs eg has it actually got 6 speakers, chrome trim, mirrors on the visors, pockets on the seats, what wheels / trims.

The spec on these TRs vary alot depending on engine size and if there is an R in the month!

Jon

I was already thinking about it to be honest. First I'll great them in the showroom, ask kindly for keys and will say "Will not sign anything until I fully check my car I'm about to buy":) Even though I picked the 1.33l version with full "extras" (like chrome "look-like", so It may even plastic in silver paint!)

Thanks for the links alfiejts. I came across this product. Was thinking if it's worth the price and all the fancy, shiny metal box.

http://www.speeding.co.uk/acatalog/Naviwax...Japan.html#a886

[alfiejts]

I'll be honest, I don't buy anything without reading the detailing forums and I only get stuff that comes with an independent review. It might be OK, but I've never heard of it....

If you want a Carnuba wax product, then the forums and autoexpress rave about Collinite 476S.

I got three tins delivered from the USA for the price of one over here...

I used it for a while and it was a great protector, but on the Decuma Grey Yaris the opacity of the wax (just like any wax based product) hid the flake of the metallic paint.

That's why I now use a sealant rather than a wax - because they are optically clearer.

For the bext appearance, the latest school of thought is to use wax based products on solid paint colours and sealants on clearcoat metallics....

So if you want to put a good coat of protection on the car and to only do it every three or four months or so, then the Collinite came out top of Autoexpress tests for endurance. I still use it on my alloy wheels for the best protection, but I use an acrylic sealant on the body panels for better effect and re-coat it every six weeks or so.

[Sico2]

After reading all the posts and various websites, I still can't establish the difference between waxing and polishing. I understand waxing is more lasting and done less frequently? And polishing is more for repairing minor damages to the paint? Or do they go both on a car?

When I get my car the first day, should I clean off the old wax, or wait until it'll get dirty and apply one of my choice?

What should my list of products consist of:

-Bucket (obviously)

-Mitt (lamb wool I heard they recommend)

-3000+ of microfibre wipes ;)

-car shampoo

-car polish ?

-clay

-wax (liquid, solid?)

-glass cleaner

-tire wax (or similar substance)

-alloys cleaner

- ...

[alfiejts]

A polish is abrasive and makes the surface smooth and shiny by removing a small layer of the paint.

So you shouldn't polish more than you need to as you're actually removing the surface of the paint - once every six months is the most you should do, otherwise you'll wear through your paint!

But a polish doesn't apply any surface protection - that's what waxes and sealants do...

And to confuse things, there are products that combine the two into a single product that is abrasive to remove the rough surface but then applies protection too....

The issue is that if you apply a wax or sealant over a surface that isn't well prepared, you just seal the grime in...

What you haven't mentioned are "clay bars". They are designed to remove contaminants from the paint surface without being abrasive.

So, you should polish infrequently, as you're actually wearing out your paint, but what you can then do more frequently is use a clay bar to remove the "surface contaminants" that have built up on the paint that washing doesn't remove and then apply a glaze, sealant or wax to provide portection.

[alfiejts]

When I get my car the first day, should I clean off the old wax, or wait until it'll get dirty and apply one of my choice?

So here's what I'd do when I brought the new car home.....

1) Wait for a dry but not sunny day (you don't want to get rained off or work in full sun....). Also not too windy, cos you don't want dust or grit blowing up onto the bonnet or roof...

That's more key than either rushing into things straight away or waiting until it gets dirty...

2) Wash the car and dry it (even if you don't think its dirty)

3) Use a mild clay bar with plenty of lube to clean off any overspray and surface contaminants.

4) (Optional) Use a "final finish" polish such as Menzerna PO85 RE (or maybe Autoglym SRP or similar) to smooth the paint surface and create the high gloss finish. The Menzerna bottle says "guarantees a deep wet look finish" and that's what I think I've now got...)

The above gets you to a stage where you have a very clean and shiny paint surface, but with no "protection" on it.

Next you add the protection

5) Apply a sealant/protectant (such as Werkstat Prime Acrylic)

6) Apply one or more final finish gloss top coats (Such as Werkstat Jett or TurtleWax Platinum Extra Gloss or Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection)

You can then "layer on" as many coats of the final gloss protection as you want over time.

I've been adding a quick extra coat of final gloss after each weekly wash. I'm now up to six coats and have a deep wet-look shine.

In theory, every 4-6 weeks, you add a top up coat of final gloss protection ad after six months, you start from the top and do it all again....

There are lots of products from different manufacturers to do the same thing, but basically there are three fundamental steps of wash and "clay bar" to clean, then polish to abrasively smooth the surface. Finally use glaze or wax to apply protection.