Celica Gt 140 Gen 7 Front Brakes Binding (left In Particular)

[Emperor Dragon]

Hello all! I joined a few months ago but hadn't posted.

I have recently purchased Black Diamond Brakes Discs and Predator pads to go with my Celica. I have the front ones fitted after a few challenges with tight bolts but they all seem ok and everyting fits.

The problem is once I have re-pressurised the brakes from both pistons being pushed in (With the brake fluid resevoir cap off then put back on for pressurisation) they seem to not quite want to let go of the rotors. I'm not sure if it is the pistons, pads or something else but something is definitely not letting go correctly. I have driven a little with them but they soon get hot and the left side smokes. It seems to get warm from not braking but burns when I do brake. You can hear them with the windows down and it sounds as though something is rubbing/scorring. The pads appear as if they are being held on slightly.

I have taken the calliper of multiple times, re-checked and re-greased all the parts (Including the guide pins though I have noticed the bottom guide pin on the right calliper seems to stick rather solidly after a little while) but it keeps happening.

Last time I jacked the car up at the front so both wheels were off the ground and had a neighbourgh come round and have a look at the discs with the wheels off and the rotors nutted on. He said the front left was binding more than the right but the right is also binding. Due to the left binding more it seems the Active differential is throwing the power to the right.

Once I have the calliper off and press the piston back connect everything back up everything seems to spin freely and without hinderence but as soon as I apply the brakes they go back to being stiff.

The pistons seem to go in and out easily and the seals are ok so I don't think anything has gotten in.

Does anyone have and sugggestions?

Many thanks in advance.

[cueboydave]

Are the pistons easy to push back while all the pipes are connected?

You say they go in and out easily but do they when they are fitted on the car? When the brake is binding, can you push the piston back then?

What i would do is get the brake to bind, then loosen the bleed nipple on the caliper and see if it frees off. If it does, you know its either your flexible brake hose or the master cylinder....

Hello all! I joined a few months ago but hadn't posted.

I have recently purchased Black Diamond Brakes Discs and Predator pads to go with my Celica. I have the front ones fitted after a few challenges with tight bolts but they all seem ok and everyting fits.

The problem is once I have re-pressurised the brakes from both pistons being pushed in (With the brake fluid resevoir cap off then put back on for pressurisation) they seem to not quite want to let go of the rotors. I'm not sure if it is the pistons, pads or something else but something is definitely not letting go correctly. I have driven a little with them but they soon get hot and the left side smokes. It seems to get warm from not braking but burns when I do brake. You can hear them with the windows down and it sounds as though something is rubbing/scorring. The pads appear as if they are being held on slightly.

I have taken the calliper of multiple times, re-checked and re-greased all the parts (Including the guide pins though I have noticed the bottom guide pin on the right calliper seems to stick rather solidly after a little while) but it keeps happening.

Last time I jacked the car up at the front so both wheels were off the ground and had a neighbourgh come round and have a look at the discs with the wheels off and the rotors nutted on. He said the front left was binding more than the right but the right is also binding. Due to the left binding more it seems the Active differential is throwing the power to the right.

Once I have the calliper off and press the piston back connect everything back up everything seems to spin freely and without hinderence but as soon as I apply the brakes they go back to being stiff.

The pistons seem to go in and out easily and the seals are ok so I don't think anything has gotten in.

Does anyone have and sugggestions?

Many thanks in advance.

[Emperor Dragon]

Are the pistons easy to push back while all the pipes are connected?

You say they go in and out easily but do they when they are fitted on the car? When the brake is binding, can you push the piston back then?

What i would do is get the brake to bind, then loosen the bleed nipple on the caliper and see if it frees off. If it does, you know its either your flexible brake hose or the master cylinder....

Hello,

When you mean the pipes do you mean the flexible brake hose? When I push the piston back in with the G-clamp it is connected but not to the calliper carrier/bidge's guide pins. Once the brakes have binded and I take the top part of the calliper with this piston in off it seems to be free again suggesting it is piston related though I do pull the pads back a bit as well and they don't slide easily.

Another thing I forgot to mention was I cleaned up the 2 anti-squeel plates for each pad, copper greased them and placed them back on, is this ok? I didn't have any repalcements and didn't know they were there when I bought the new rotors and pads. Also I saw that there si a clip on one side of each brake pad and I transferred this across to the new pads however I wondered if this might be causing the pads to stick along the calliper rails.

I will try what you said, but I'll have to wait until the weather improves blasted rain...

One other thing which might be completely un-related is when I had her MOT'd back in March I was told by the dealer my RTB Front Brake In-balance was off by 22% and almost failed the MOT because of it. I have no idea what that is other than over braking being to the front, back or sides. I asked another mechanic and he said he'd only heard of it on lorries but it was probably put on a rolling road and the computer came up with it. Might have been to do with the fact the brakes and pads were near gone as they had completely had it when I took them off. A lip on both in and outside with pads down to the indictor on one and past on the other.

[cueboydave]

You could also make sure the caliper does 'slide' easily. Leave the pads out and put the caliper on and tighten it as normal. Does the caliper slide in and out easily on the pins? As long as your pads sit loosely in the carrier, your piston moves easily and the caliper slides in and out easily, the brake shouldn't bind.

I mentioned the master cyl. but I can't imagine that if it was fine before you did the swap.

Are the pistons easy to push back while all the pipes are connected?

You say they go in and out easily but do they when they are fitted on the car? When the brake is binding, can you push the piston back then?

What i would do is get the brake to bind, then loosen the bleed nipple on the caliper and see if it frees off. If it does, you know its either your flexible brake hose or the master cylinder....

Hello,

When you mean the pipes do you mean the flexible brake hose? When I push the piston back in with the G-clamp it is connected but not to the calliper carrier/bidge's guide pins. Once the brakes have binded and I take the top part of the calliper with this piston in off it seems to be free again suggesting it is piston related though I do pull the pads back a bit as well and they don't slide easily.

Another thing I forgot to mention was I cleaned up the 2 anti-squeel plates for each pad, copper greased them and placed them back on, is this ok? I didn't have any repalcements and didn't know they were there when I bought the new rotors and pads. Also I saw that there si a clip on one side of each brake pad and I transferred this across to the new pads however I wondered if this might be causing the pads to stick along the calliper rails.

I will try what you said, but I'll have to wait until the weather improves blasted rain...

One other thing which might be completely un-related is when I had her MOT'd back in March I was told by the dealer my RTB Front Brake In-balance was off by 22% and almost failed the MOT because of it. I have no idea what that is other than over braking being to the front, back or sides. I asked another mechanic and he said he'd only heard of it on lorries but it was probably put on a rolling road and the computer came up with it. Might have been to do with the fact the brakes and pads were near gone as they had completely had it when I took them off. A lip on both in and outside with pads down to the indictor on one and past on the other.

[Emperor Dragon]

You could also make sure the caliper does 'slide' easily. Leave the pads out and put the caliper on and tighten it as normal. Does the caliper slide in and out easily on the pins? As long as your pads sit loosely in the carrier, your piston moves easily and the caliper slides in and out easily, the brake shouldn't bind.

I mentioned the master cyl. but I can't imagine that if it was fine before you did the swap.

Right, I have tried the above mentioned calliper slide test. The left slides easily but the right is still sticking a bit from the bottom guide pin. I keep re-copper greasing the pin and the hole it goes into but after a little while it seems to set. I have looked in the hole and nothing seems to be caught so not sure why that is seizing so that might be the right wheel's problem.

As for the left I am just going to try the piston test you mentioned and see if that has any effect.

Thanks for the help so far!

*Time Lapse*

Ok put everything back together, re-pressurised the brakes. Turned the engine on went into first gear *Grinding/rubbing noise* Tried applying the brakes and re-leasing *No different*. Went back into neutral, leaving the engine running and tried hand turning the discs and couldn't. I loosened the bleed nipples so they bled away one at a time but still no give. It looks as though the piston is still appyling pressure. When I try to get the calliper off it requires a bit of rocking to get it off. I will upload pictures shortly to show them in there current locked state.

I still ponder if it could have something to do with those little metal clips on the ends of the pads but not sure.

Oh yes now that I have bled the brakes a bit the brake pedal is spongey so how do I correct that? I've only successfully bled motorcycle brakes and don't understand the extra parts the car has (Master Cylinder etc).

[cueboydave]

OK, yeah it must be something to do with the pistons or slides if they stay locked on when you loosen the bleed nipples. I can't imagine why if they are new calipers....

Ok, when the piston is pushed all the way back, does it fit over the pads easily..? What I mean is, is there enough room or do you have to force it...

If the pistons are free and the pads sit freely, I cant see why they would bind. I am a mechanic by the way....but its kinda got me stumped. To get the pedal good again, you could do with someone pressin the brake for you, while you undo the nipple. When the pedal goes down, the air should come out, then BEFORE they release the pedal you tighten the nipple again. Then they can release the brake... Do this until you get a clean 'spirt' of fluid from the nipple when they press the pedal. There won't be much air in there.

You can do it yourself if you have a pipe from the nipple and submerse the other end in some brake fluid, then just loosen the nipple and gently and slowly pump the pedal, try not to go right down to the floor though as it can sometimes damage your master cylinder, its quite rare though.

Let me know how you get on.

You could also make sure the caliper does 'slide' easily. Leave the pads out and put the caliper on and tighten it as normal. Does the caliper slide in and out easily on the pins? As long as your pads sit loosely in the carrier, your piston moves easily and the caliper slides in and out easily, the brake shouldn't bind.

I mentioned the master cyl. but I can't imagine that if it was fine before you did the swap.

Right, I have tried the above mentioned calliper slide test. The left slides easily but the right is still sticking a bit from the bottom guide pin. I keep re-copper greasing the pin and the hole it goes into but after a little while it seems to set. I have looked in the hole and nothing seems to be caught so not sure why that is seizing so that might be the right wheel's problem.

As for the left I am just going to try the piston test you mentioned and see if that has any effect.

Thanks for the help so far!

*Time Lapse*

Ok put everything back together, re-pressurised the brakes. Turned the engine on went into first gear *Grinding/rubbing noise* Tried applying the brakes and re-leasing *No different*. Went back into neutral, leaving the engine running and tried hand turning the discs and couldn't. I loosened the bleed nipples so they bled away one at a time but still no give. It looks as though the piston is still appyling pressure. When I try to get the calliper off it requires a bit of rocking to get it off. I will upload pictures shortly to show them in there current locked state.

I still ponder if it could have something to do with those little metal clips on the ends of the pads but not sure.

Oh yes now that I have bled the brakes a bit the brake pedal is spongey so how do I correct that? I've only successfully bled motorcycle brakes and don't understand the extra parts the car has (Master Cylinder etc).

[Emperor Dragon]

OK, yeah it must be something to do with the pistons or slides if they stay locked on when you loosen the bleed nipples. I can't imagine why if they are new calipers....

Ok, when the piston is pushed all the way back, does it fit over the pads easily..? What I mean is, is there enough room or do you have to force it...

If the pistons are free and the pads sit freely, I cant see why they would bind. I am a mechanic by the way....but its kinda got me stumped. To get the pedal good again, you could do with someone pressin the brake for you, while you undo the nipple. When the pedal goes down, the air should come out, then BEFORE they release the pedal you tighten the nipple again. Then they can release the brake... Do this until you get a clean 'spirt' of fluid from the nipple when they press the pedal. There won't be much air in there.

You can do it yourself if you have a pipe from the nipple and submerse the other end in some brake fluid, then just loosen the nipple and gently and slowly pump the pedal, try not to go right down to the floor though as it can sometimes damage your master cylinder, its quite rare though.

Let me know how you get on.

Here are the previously mentioned pictures taken after the brakes were seized and bled:

- This is a close up of the left calliper. The right is the same way. The piston to the left is pressing against the 2 anti-squeel plates pressing against the pad then the disc.

- This is the clip that I mentioned transferring to each of the pads, they were fiddely to get off and back on again so I wondered if they were one of those 'Once only' parts you replace. They seem to be making it harder for the pads to glide so I will try removing them. Do they hold an important relevance?

- A more whole view of the left calliper.

- A close-up of the left calliper pads against the disc.

- My new and now not so new or shiney right disc with calliper

- A full view of the right calliper and the pads/disc.

- A full view of the left calliper and the pads/disc.

I have not got new callipers though I did try and give them a clean.

The piston goes back ok when I use an old pad and the G-clamp to press it back in. It goes right back into the calliper and easily fits back over the pads and onto the carrier. It is just after I have applied the brakes they seem to be all stuck again.

Ah so it is just like bleeding a motorcycle's brakes, you just can't reach the pedal hehe. I don't have any Dot 3 brake fluid so I'll grab a neighbour to help.

A mechanic, yay! Are you a general mechanic or a Toyota specific mechanic? I was interested in mechanics but never took it as a course.

Yet another thing I should probably mention, before I realised I needed to change the brakes they told me by (Though I didn't realise for a while until whirring noises were heard) covering my right front wheel with burned off black carbon dust. I kept wondering why this was happening as the roads weren't that mucky and it was only that one wheel. Anyway I found that at 70mph ish it would judder and make the whirring noise. After I got home I placed my gloved hand near the wheel and could feel the heat oozing from the whole wheel. Touching the alloy melted part of the glove. I wondered if this may have damaged something or perhaps caused the brake fluid to boil and damage something internally that is not visible causing this problem I have. I am still to do the rear pads and discs but wanted to sort the front first so I had a slight back-up if they went wrong. As far as I can see the rear ones are opperating ok and aren't getting hot.

Haha I'm sure that is everything covered now.

[cueboydave]

I'm a volvo mechanic but I we get all models at some time or another. I can't see anything wrong by the pictures. All I can think is that it is the pistons sticking. How hard are they to push back.... you could try pumping the piston out and using a thin screwdriver, look under the rubber boot to see if the piston has any rust on it. When you say you cleaned them did you take the pistons right out?

There is no fluid under that rubber boot you can see, you probably know this though, so you can lift it slightly to see if the piston looks nice and clean and shiny, which it should. If you're unsure you could just pump it so the piston comes right out...although that can be awkward to get it back in without damaging the rubber boot. You should be able to see though without taking it right out. From what you've said it must be the piston sticking. If it doesn't free off when you undo the bleeder, like you said, that eliminates the master cylinder and flexi brake hose and only leaves your piston or the slides, more likely the piston though.

OK, yeah it must be something to do with the pistons or slides if they stay locked on when you loosen the bleed nipples. I can't imagine why if they are new calipers....

Ok, when the piston is pushed all the way back, does it fit over the pads easily..? What I mean is, is there enough room or do you have to force it...

If the pistons are free and the pads sit freely, I cant see why they would bind. I am a mechanic by the way....but its kinda got me stumped. To get the pedal good again, you could do with someone pressin the brake for you, while you undo the nipple. When the pedal goes down, the air should come out, then BEFORE they release the pedal you tighten the nipple again. Then they can release the brake... Do this until you get a clean 'spirt' of fluid from the nipple when they press the pedal. There won't be much air in there.

You can do it yourself if you have a pipe from the nipple and submerse the other end in some brake fluid, then just loosen the nipple and gently and slowly pump the pedal, try not to go right down to the floor though as it can sometimes damage your master cylinder, its quite rare though.

Let me know how you get on.

Here are the previously mentioned pictures taken after the brakes were seized and bled:

- This is a close up of the left calliper. The right is the same way. The piston to the left is pressing against the 2 anti-squeel plates pressing against the pad then the disc.

- This is the clip that I mentioned transferring to each of the pads, they were fiddely to get off and back on again so I wondered if they were one of those 'Once only' parts you replace. They seem to be making it harder for the pads to glide so I will try removing them. Do they hold an important relevance?

- A more whole view of the left calliper.

- A close-up of the left calliper pads against the disc.

- My new and now not so new or shiney right disc with calliper

- A full view of the right calliper and the pads/disc.

- A full view of the left calliper and the pads/disc.

I have not got new callipers though I did try and give them a clean.

The piston goes back ok when I use an old pad and the G-clamp to press it back in. It goes right back into the calliper and easily fits back over the pads and onto the carrier. It is just after I have applied the brakes they seem to be all stuck again.

Ah so it is just like bleeding a motorcycle's brakes, you just can't reach the pedal hehe. I don't have any Dot 3 brake fluid so I'll grab a neighbour to help.

A mechanic, yay! Are you a general mechanic or a Toyota specific mechanic? I was interested in mechanics but never took it as a course.

Yet another thing I should probably mention, before I realised I needed to change the brakes they told me by (Though I didn't realise for a while until whirring noises were heard) covering my right front wheel with burned off black carbon dust. I kept wondering why this was happening as the roads weren't that mucky and it was only that one wheel. Anyway I found that at 70mph ish it would judder and make the whirring noise. After I got home I placed my gloved hand near the wheel and could feel the heat oozing from the whole wheel. Touching the alloy melted part of the glove. I wondered if this may have damaged something or perhaps caused the brake fluid to boil and damage something internally that is not visible causing this problem I have. I am still to do the rear pads and discs but wanted to sort the front first so I had a slight back-up if they went wrong. As far as I can see the rear ones are opperating ok and aren't getting hot.

Haha I'm sure that is everything covered now.

[martin1810]

I'm a volvo mechanic but I we get all models at some time or another. I can't see anything wrong by the pictures. All I can think is that it is the pistons sticking. How hard are they to push back.... you could try pumping the piston out and using a thin screwdriver, look under the rubber boot to see if the piston has any rust on it. When you say you cleaned them did you take the pistons right out?

There is no fluid under that rubber boot you can see, you probably know this though, so you can lift it slightly to see if the piston looks nice and clean and shiny, which it should. If you're unsure you could just pump it so the piston comes right out...although that can be awkward to get it back in without damaging the rubber boot. You should be able to see though without taking it right out. From what you've said it must be the piston sticking. If it doesn't free off when you undo the bleeder, like you said, that eliminates the master cylinder and flexi brake hose and only leaves your piston or the slides, more likely the piston though.

OK, yeah it must be something to do with the pistons or slides if they stay locked on when you loosen the bleed nipples. I can't imagine why if they are new calipers....

Ok, when the piston is pushed all the way back, does it fit over the pads easily..? What I mean is, is there enough room or do you have to force it...

If the pistons are free and the pads sit freely, I cant see why they would bind. I am a mechanic by the way....but its kinda got me stumped. To get the pedal good again, you could do with someone pressin the brake for you, while you undo the nipple. When the pedal goes down, the air should come out, then BEFORE they release the pedal you tighten the nipple again. Then they can release the brake... Do this until you get a clean 'spirt' of fluid from the nipple when they press the pedal. There won't be much air in there.

You can do it yourself if you have a pipe from the nipple and submerse the other end in some brake fluid, then just loosen the nipple and gently and slowly pump the pedal, try not to go right down to the floor though as it can sometimes damage your master cylinder, its quite rare though.

Let me know how you get on.

Here are the previously mentioned pictures taken after the brakes were seized and bled:

- This is a close up of the left calliper. The right is the same way. The piston to the left is pressing against the 2 anti-squeel plates pressing against the pad then the disc.

- This is the clip that I mentioned transferring to each of the pads, they were fiddely to get off and back on again so I wondered if they were one of those 'Once only' parts you replace. They seem to be making it harder for the pads to glide so I will try removing them. Do they hold an important relevance?

- A more whole view of the left calliper.

- A close-up of the left calliper pads against the disc.

- My new and now not so new or shiney right disc with calliper

- A full view of the right calliper and the pads/disc.

- A full view of the left calliper and the pads/disc.

I have not got new callipers though I did try and give them a clean.

The piston goes back ok when I use an old pad and the G-clamp to press it back in. It goes right back into the calliper and easily fits back over the pads and onto the carrier. It is just after I have applied the brakes they seem to be all stuck again.

Ah so it is just like bleeding a motorcycle's brakes, you just can't reach the pedal hehe. I don't have any Dot 3 brake fluid so I'll grab a neighbour to help.

A mechanic, yay! Are you a general mechanic or a Toyota specific mechanic? I was interested in mechanics but never took it as a course.

Yet another thing I should probably mention, before I realised I needed to change the brakes they told me by (Though I didn't realise for a while until whirring noises were heard) covering my right front wheel with burned off black carbon dust. I kept wondering why this was happening as the roads weren't that mucky and it was only that one wheel. Anyway I found that at 70mph ish it would judder and make the whirring noise. After I got home I placed my gloved hand near the wheel and could feel the heat oozing from the whole wheel. Touching the alloy melted part of the glove. I wondered if this may have damaged something or perhaps caused the brake fluid to boil and damage something internally that is not visible causing this problem I have. I am still to do the rear pads and discs but wanted to sort the front first so I had a slight back-up if they went wrong. As far as I can see the rear ones are opperating ok and aren't getting hot.

Haha I'm sure that is everything covered now.

You have a faulty caliper which needs replacing. If you drive it like this it will get so hot that is boils the brake fluid and your brakes will fail. I would get both calipers and both flexible brake hoses replaced to be on the safe side. The MOT comment about inbalance was telling you that one caliper wasn't working properly. The test compares the force of the two front brakes. If they are too different the car will be dangerous under heavy braking.

[cueboydave]

That's ok if you have lots of money to spend but personally I'd just free of the calipers. They cant be too bad if they can be pushed back quite easily. Try squirting some wd40 under the rubber boot and working the piston in and out many times. Get someone on the pedal to pump it out and you press it back in, keep going until its really free. Or like I said pump the piston right out and clean it up good. OK, if it is realy badly pitted you should replace it but if its not too bad it should be ok. Get some piston grease and put that on before putting it back in. I don't like buying a full caliper as you only may only need a piston.

I'm a volvo mechanic but I we get all models at some time or another. I can't see anything wrong by the pictures. All I can think is that it is the pistons sticking. How hard are they to push back.... you could try pumping the piston out and using a thin screwdriver, look under the rubber boot to see if the piston has any rust on it. When you say you cleaned them did you take the pistons right out?

There is no fluid under that rubber boot you can see, you probably know this though, so you can lift it slightly to see if the piston looks nice and clean and shiny, which it should. If you're unsure you could just pump it so the piston comes right out...although that can be awkward to get it back in without damaging the rubber boot. You should be able to see though without taking it right out. From what you've said it must be the piston sticking. If it doesn't free off when you undo the bleeder, like you said, that eliminates the master cylinder and flexi brake hose and only leaves your piston or the slides, more likely the piston though.

OK, yeah it must be something to do with the pistons or slides if they stay locked on when you loosen the bleed nipples. I can't imagine why if they are new calipers....

Ok, when the piston is pushed all the way back, does it fit over the pads easily..? What I mean is, is there enough room or do you have to force it...

If the pistons are free and the pads sit freely, I cant see why they would bind. I am a mechanic by the way....but its kinda got me stumped. To get the pedal good again, you could do with someone pressin the brake for you, while you undo the nipple. When the pedal goes down, the air should come out, then BEFORE they release the pedal you tighten the nipple again. Then they can release the brake... Do this until you get a clean 'spirt' of fluid from the nipple when they press the pedal. There won't be much air in there.

You can do it yourself if you have a pipe from the nipple and submerse the other end in some brake fluid, then just loosen the nipple and gently and slowly pump the pedal, try not to go right down to the floor though as it can sometimes damage your master cylinder, its quite rare though.

Let me know how you get on.

Here are the previously mentioned pictures taken after the brakes were seized and bled:

- This is a close up of the left calliper. The right is the same way. The piston to the left is pressing against the 2 anti-squeel plates pressing against the pad then the disc.

- This is the clip that I mentioned transferring to each of the pads, they were fiddely to get off and back on again so I wondered if they were one of those 'Once only' parts you replace. They seem to be making it harder for the pads to glide so I will try removing them. Do they hold an important relevance?

- A more whole view of the left calliper.

- A close-up of the left calliper pads against the disc.

- My new and now not so new or shiney right disc with calliper

- A full view of the right calliper and the pads/disc.

- A full view of the left calliper and the pads/disc.

I have not got new callipers though I did try and give them a clean.

The piston goes back ok when I use an old pad and the G-clamp to press it back in. It goes right back into the calliper and easily fits back over the pads and onto the carrier. It is just after I have applied the brakes they seem to be all stuck again.

Ah so it is just like bleeding a motorcycle's brakes, you just can't reach the pedal hehe. I don't have any Dot 3 brake fluid so I'll grab a neighbour to help.

A mechanic, yay! Are you a general mechanic or a Toyota specific mechanic? I was interested in mechanics but never took it as a course.

Yet another thing I should probably mention, before I realised I needed to change the brakes they told me by (Though I didn't realise for a while until whirring noises were heard) covering my right front wheel with burned off black carbon dust. I kept wondering why this was happening as the roads weren't that mucky and it was only that one wheel. Anyway I found that at 70mph ish it would judder and make the whirring noise. After I got home I placed my gloved hand near the wheel and could feel the heat oozing from the whole wheel. Touching the alloy melted part of the glove. I wondered if this may have damaged something or perhaps caused the brake fluid to boil and damage something internally that is not visible causing this problem I have. I am still to do the rear pads and discs but wanted to sort the front first so I had a slight back-up if they went wrong. As far as I can see the rear ones are opperating ok and aren't getting hot.

Haha I'm sure that is everything covered now.

You have a faulty caliper which needs replacing. If you drive it like this it will get so hot that is boils the brake fluid and your brakes will fail. I would get both calipers and both flexible brake hoses replaced to be on the safe side. The MOT comment about inbalance was telling you that one caliper wasn't working properly. The test compares the force of the two front brakes. If they are too different the car will be dangerous under heavy braking.

[Emperor Dragon]

You have a faulty caliper which needs replacing. If you drive it like this it will get so hot that is boils the brake fluid and your brakes will fail. I would get both calipers and both flexible brake hoses replaced to be on the safe side. The MOT comment about inbalance was telling you that one caliper wasn't working properly. The test compares the force of the two front brakes. If they are too different the car will be dangerous under heavy braking.

That's ok if you have lots of money to spend but personally I'd just free of the calipers. They cant be too bad if they can be pushed back quite easily. Try squirting some wd40 under the rubber boot and working the piston in and out many times. Get someone on the pedal to pump it out and you press it back in, keep going until its really free. Or like I said pump the piston right out and clean it up good. OK, if it is realy badly pitted you should replace it but if its not too bad it should be ok. Get some piston grease and put that on before putting it back in. I don't like buying a full caliper as you only may only need a piston.

Hmmmm well I will try the piston greasing method in the hopes that it should free up the problem as money is a rather big issue at the moment and I'd really rather not get new callipers and hoses.

During next week I'll hopefully be able to borrow a neighbourghs garage to work in so that should make things easier.

Do you know a website that does sells callipers/hoses for the Gen 7 2003? Just incase I do have to replace them it would be good to get a rough idea of pricing. If one of the callipers is to be replaced it will most likely be the right because of it's reluctance to move after a while.

I was doing a little search today and saw someone had a braking issue with their 2003 Celica that was being discussed on the honest John website and they had judder. There was mentionings of the bearings? Where are they? They might be worth a quick check as well as there was a little from when the right disc was burning.

I will take pictures of the piston's so you can tell me what you think as I really don't know what is deemed as fit for service.

Martin > Thanks for the explanation of the inbalance it would make sense as the right was the one getting hot and is indeed sticking a bit.

[cueboydave]

I really dont think your problem has anything to do with the wheel bearings. The bearing is pressed in to the hub. Judder when braking is nearly always caused by a warped disc or a disc that isn't sitting flat on the hub due to rust or dirt on the mating surfaces. You have new discs now so that should be ok, they warp when the get too hot. I've never changed brake hoses either unless they were split or blocked and we have established that they are not blocked so I wouldn't replace them unless you really feel the need. When you get the pistons out, you need to clean any rust off them, they shouldn't be any on them at all though. Don't use emery on them as it will damage them and they might leak when re-fitted. Clean them with wire wool if you can get some or TCUT I found works well. They need to be clean and shiny, if they appear to have pitting on them, depending how bad it is you might have to replace them.

You have a faulty caliper which needs replacing. If you drive it like this it will get so hot that is boils the brake fluid and your brakes will fail. I would get both calipers and both flexible brake hoses replaced to be on the safe side. The MOT comment about inbalance was telling you that one caliper wasn't working properly. The test compares the force of the two front brakes. If they are too different the car will be dangerous under heavy braking.

That's ok if you have lots of money to spend but personally I'd just free of the calipers. They cant be too bad if they can be pushed back quite easily. Try squirting some wd40 under the rubber boot and working the piston in and out many times. Get someone on the pedal to pump it out and you press it back in, keep going until its really free. Or like I said pump the piston right out and clean it up good. OK, if it is realy badly pitted you should replace it but if its not too bad it should be ok. Get some piston grease and put that on before putting it back in. I don't like buying a full caliper as you only may only need a piston.

Hmmmm well I will try the piston greasing method in the hopes that it should free up the problem as money is a rather big issue at the moment and I'd really rather not get new callipers and hoses.

During next week I'll hopefully be able to borrow a neighbourghs garage to work in so that should make things easier.

Do you know a website that does sells callipers/hoses for the Gen 7 2003? Just incase I do have to replace them it would be good to get a rough idea of pricing. If one of the callipers is to be replaced it will most likely be the right because of it's reluctance to move after a while.

I was doing a little search today and saw someone had a braking issue with their 2003 Celica that was being discussed on the honest John website and they had judder. There was mentionings of the bearings? Where are they? They might be worth a quick check as well as there was a little from when the right disc was burning.

I will take pictures of the piston's so you can tell me what you think as I really don't know what is deemed as fit for service.

Martin > Thanks for the explanation of the inbalance it would make sense as the right was the one getting hot and is indeed sticking a bit.

[martin1810]

I really dont think your problem has anything to do with the wheel bearings. The bearing is pressed in to the hub. Judder when braking is nearly always caused by a warped disc or a disc that isn't sitting flat on the hub due to rust or dirt on the mating surfaces. You have new discs now so that should be ok, they warp when the get too hot. I've never changed brake hoses either unless they were split or blocked and we have established that they are not blocked so I wouldn't replace them unless you really feel the need. When you get the pistons out, you need to clean any rust off them, they shouldn't be any on them at all though. Don't use emery on them as it will damage them and they might leak when re-fitted. Clean them with wire wool if you can get some or TCUT I found works well. They need to be clean and shiny, if they appear to have pitting on them, depending how bad it is you might have to replace them.

You have a faulty caliper which needs replacing. If you drive it like this it will get so hot that is boils the brake fluid and your brakes will fail. I would get both calipers and both flexible brake hoses replaced to be on the safe side. The MOT comment about inbalance was telling you that one caliper wasn't working properly. The test compares the force of the two front brakes. If they are too different the car will be dangerous under heavy braking.

That's ok if you have lots of money to spend but personally I'd just free of the calipers. They cant be too bad if they can be pushed back quite easily. Try squirting some wd40 under the rubber boot and working the piston in and out many times. Get someone on the pedal to pump it out and you press it back in, keep going until its really free. Or like I said pump the piston right out and clean it up good. OK, if it is realy badly pitted you should replace it but if its not too bad it should be ok. Get some piston grease and put that on before putting it back in. I don't like buying a full caliper as you only may only need a piston.

Hmmmm well I will try the piston greasing method in the hopes that it should free up the problem as money is a rather big issue at the moment and I'd really rather not get new callipers and hoses.

During next week I'll hopefully be able to borrow a neighbourghs garage to work in so that should make things easier.

Do you know a website that does sells callipers/hoses for the Gen 7 2003? Just incase I do have to replace them it would be good to get a rough idea of pricing. If one of the callipers is to be replaced it will most likely be the right because of it's reluctance to move after a while.

I was doing a little search today and saw someone had a braking issue with their 2003 Celica that was being discussed on the honest John website and they had judder. There was mentionings of the bearings? Where are they? They might be worth a quick check as well as there was a little from when the right disc was burning.

I will take pictures of the piston's so you can tell me what you think as I really don't know what is deemed as fit for service.

Martin > Thanks for the explanation of the inbalance it would make sense as the right was the one getting hot and is indeed sticking a bit.

I have seen a number of cars where the brake hoses have deteriorated inside and act like one way valves. When you press the pedal the fluid is forced through and pushes the piston but when you stop pushing the hose prevents the fluid moving so the piston won't come off. I've seen this cause the fluid to boil and the brakes to fail. Also I heve seen accidents where one caliper is sticking, when the car brakes in an emergency the good caliper grabs and throws the car to one side. What anyone chooses to do with brakes is up to them, just remember you only live once.

[cueboydave]

yeah I know what you mean Martin but hes already slackened the bleeder and his brake is still stuck on so i was thinking it can't be his hoses...

I really dont think your problem has anything to do with the wheel bearings. The bearing is pressed in to the hub. Judder when braking is nearly always caused by a warped disc or a disc that isn't sitting flat on the hub due to rust or dirt on the mating surfaces. You have new discs now so that should be ok, they warp when the get too hot. I've never changed brake hoses either unless they were split or blocked and we have established that they are not blocked so I wouldn't replace them unless you really feel the need. When you get the pistons out, you need to clean any rust off them, they shouldn't be any on them at all though. Don't use emery on them as it will damage them and they might leak when re-fitted. Clean them with wire wool if you can get some or TCUT I found works well. They need to be clean and shiny, if they appear to have pitting on them, depending how bad it is you might have to replace them.

You have a faulty caliper which needs replacing. If you drive it like this it will get so hot that is boils the brake fluid and your brakes will fail. I would get both calipers and both flexible brake hoses replaced to be on the safe side. The MOT comment about inbalance was telling you that one caliper wasn't working properly. The test compares the force of the two front brakes. If they are too different the car will be dangerous under heavy braking.

That's ok if you have lots of money to spend but personally I'd just free of the calipers. They cant be too bad if they can be pushed back quite easily. Try squirting some wd40 under the rubber boot and working the piston in and out many times. Get someone on the pedal to pump it out and you press it back in, keep going until its really free. Or like I said pump the piston right out and clean it up good. OK, if it is realy badly pitted you should replace it but if its not too bad it should be ok. Get some piston grease and put that on before putting it back in. I don't like buying a full caliper as you only may only need a piston.

Hmmmm well I will try the piston greasing method in the hopes that it should free up the problem as money is a rather big issue at the moment and I'd really rather not get new callipers and hoses.

During next week I'll hopefully be able to borrow a neighbourghs garage to work in so that should make things easier.

Do you know a website that does sells callipers/hoses for the Gen 7 2003? Just incase I do have to replace them it would be good to get a rough idea of pricing. If one of the callipers is to be replaced it will most likely be the right because of it's reluctance to move after a while.

I was doing a little search today and saw someone had a braking issue with their 2003 Celica that was being discussed on the honest John website and they had judder. There was mentionings of the bearings? Where are they? They might be worth a quick check as well as there was a little from when the right disc was burning.

I will take pictures of the piston's so you can tell me what you think as I really don't know what is deemed as fit for service.

Martin > Thanks for the explanation of the inbalance it would make sense as the right was the one getting hot and is indeed sticking a bit.

I have seen a number of cars where the brake hoses have deteriorated inside and act like one way valves. When you press the pedal the fluid is forced through and pushes the piston but when you stop pushing the hose prevents the fluid moving so the piston won't come off. I've seen this cause the fluid to boil and the brakes to fail. Also I heve seen accidents where one caliper is sticking, when the car brakes in an emergency the good caliper grabs and throws the car to one side. What anyone chooses to do with brakes is up to them, just remember you only live once.

[Emperor Dragon]

Hey,

Sorry for the rather long silence I have been rather busy and the car had to be neglected.

Latest update is that I am trying to get new pistons as I bled them and pumped the pistons out fairly far, they certaily aren't clean but not terrible. However upon tying to push the left piston back in... well I couldn't I had to get a neighbourgh to use a bar to hook onto the G-Clamp to slowly force it back in. It wasn't that hard before but it may have seized since I last looked at it.

I am awaiting a garage to get in contact about calliper pisiton and calliper parts and prices but so far nothing. Fingers crossed I'll hear something tomorrow maybe.

I also did ponder about my brake disc sizes. I bough 275mm for the front which match the old ones and pads to go with it but I was looking at www.brakeparts.co.uk and noticed that the old pads I had looked like the ones for 255mm discs. Is it possible that the former owner had mixed discs and pads?

So for now I feel both pistons have had it and the right calliper carrier needs replacing due to that sticking issue.

[NorbyG]

I'm having problem as yours on my 2003 gen 7.

I felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my 2003 gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for though. It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding.

As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo. Am I right?

Piston hard to push back with G-Clamp when bleeder valve is locked (leaving around 6mm sticking out of the housing), but easy to push back (all the way) with G-Clamp when bleeder valve is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tapped calliper with a piece of wood each time, the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as calliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick.

I was told by a garage mechanic; that the brake hose has collapse on the inside...and I should have both left and right hoses replaced, even though the right brake is ok; and brake system should be flushed/replaced with new brake fluid, as it may have boiled from the heat, and also may have moisture in it. Even though the outside of hose looks in very good condition, could it collapse on the inside? The car has covered only 5k in past 2 years, and has a total of 70k on clock.

If you eventually had your sorted, can you please share the cure with me?

[gazza1286]

Your mechanic's suggestion sounds about right. It's always wise to swap components across an axle to maintain balance and prevent possible problems by not doing so.

You've confirmed yourself that the flow through that hose appears to be restricted. Hoses are relatively inexpensive so it appears the cheapest option to resolve your problem.

To satisfy yourself of his diagnosis you may want to examine the other caliper. Push that piston back and compare the effort with the nipple closed.

[NorbyG]

The other piston is fine - it goes back quite easily (using G-Clamp) with nipple closed. If it's the hose that's collapsed; why then when I tap calliper with wood (just slightly) it free the pads from binding? I mentioned this to the mechanic and he's now saying; it could be the calliper slider sticking slightly. But I've already established that the calliper operates freely on its slider. Probably problem is with both hose and calliaper!

[Dikijs]

Hi mate ,think your calipers,pistons,hoses,pipes are fine.I would bet,problem is with those 2 calipers moving pins (bolts),had the same problem with mine 140bhp,lower one was seized.Remove caliper,if can't get out those 2 bolts ,heat them up on gas cooker,get them out clean out all the way with fine sand paper,grease up with copper grease,if rubber covers are ok,use old ones if not get new ones,cheap.Make sure those pins are moving easily. That's it,imbalanced front axle breaking problem be resolved. I know,you mentioned you done it ,have you done it properly? 

[FROSTYBALLS]

7 minutes ago, Dikijs said:

Hi mate ,think your calipers,pistons,hoses,pipes are fine.I would bet,problem is with those 2 calipers moving pins (bolts),had the same problem with mine 140bhp,lower one was seized.Remove caliper,if can't get out those 2 bolts ,heat them up on gas cooker,get them out clean out all the way with fine sand paper,grease up with copper grease,if rubber covers are ok,use old ones if not get new ones,cheap.Make sure those pins are moving easily. That's it,imbalanced front axle breaking problem be resolved. I know,you mentioned you done it ,have you done it properly? 

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