Timing Belt

[timing belt paul]

Timing belt change now complete. I made a puller to remove crankshaft pulley and the job went quite well although it took quite a while because I took my time to avoid mistakes [can't afford mistakes with this component]. I must say it is one of the most difficult cars I have worked on, so many components , covers etc. but I am relieved it is now done and have the peace of mind that it will not need doing again for 60,000 miles. I would like to thank everybody for their help and advice especially T-spiritpete for that brilliant download. Speak to you all again soon,Best regards, Paul.

Hi

I am considering doing cambelt change myself and have joined this forum hoping to get some detailed info.

Having trained as vehicle Technician when I left school I have necessary tools and equipment and have done cambelts on several of my cars( i don't like being held to ransom when car is at garage and would prefer to do job myself if it is possible )

Have got relevant workshop printouts, but would like to know if holes in bottom pulley are threaded to accept bolts for the puller & would universal puller kit like Machine Mart sell do the job?

Also is it possible to remove starter motor and lock flywheel ring gear ,so crank pulley bolt can be undone.

OR ,could it be undone or "cracked" with an air gun.

Regards

Hi Irwing Bronze, the holes in crankshaft pulley are threaded [8 mm] but the holes go quite deep before the threads start. The puller you need should be of the sliding pin type,only small but quite strong because the pulley is very tight. You do not have to remove starter motor, it is not necessary if you put car in 5th gear and have someone apply foot brake [that's the way I did it without any problems] the crankshaft pulley bolt is tight but no problem if you use a strong arm. If you need any more help or advice do not hesitate to contact me as I have just done this job myself very successfully and saved myself a good few quid. No doubt speak to you soon,Regards,Paul.

Hi,again not sure what you mean about the puller - this is the one i think will do the job http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...-and-seperators

Tried that method you said Re:crank pulley removal on a Honda Accord once but could not budge bolt ,then found out there was hole to allow flywheel ring gear to be locked up with lever,no problem this method.

How was the removal of auxiliary belts ,took under-tray off mine today ,look like simple bolt tensioners?

Did you remove any heater/glow plugs to allow easy engine turnover?

How visible are the line up marks ,once the new belt is on ,there isn't a lot of room down side of engine is there.

One more thing my local Toyota dealer quoted me £205.00 for just belt replacement (all inclusive parts,labour,vat) and said normally nothing else needs to be changed,but you never know where cars are concerned.

Regards

Hi, yes that puller looks fine -use the 8mm bolts. The big bolt on the crankshaft is 22mm and quite doable using that method. The auxillary belts are simple to remove. On the top one [power steering] loosen the single nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley, back the pulley off and then remove the belt[mark the direction of travel so it can refitted same way]. The bottom belt [alternator drive] has it's tensioner to the left of it and you simply turn the bolt on the tensioner clockwise to take the tension off because it swings round on a cam. You may have to remove this pulley wheel later to enable the removal of the bottom timing belt plastic cover. I didn't take out any plugs to be able to turn the engine it turns quite easily with a half inch drive ratchet and extensions [only tight on compression]. The timing marks are clear but because you will be working in an awkward area it is advisable to make your own, I did. Also you will have to remove the power steering pump because one of the securing bolts also secures the engine mounting bracket, which of course also needs to be removed [two of the bolts on this are difficult to see, best from underneath]. All of the toothed pulleys on my car were like new I don't suspect yours will be any different. Whatever the price quoted by the garage you will be saving if you do it yourself. If you need to speak to me again you know where I am. Regards,Paul.

[IrwingBronze]

Timing belt change now complete. I made a puller to remove crankshaft pulley and the job went quite well although it took quite a while because I took my time to avoid mistakes [can't afford mistakes with this component]. I must say it is one of the most difficult cars I have worked on, so many components , covers etc. but I am relieved it is now done and have the peace of mind that it will not need doing again for 60,000 miles. I would like to thank everybody for their help and advice especially T-spiritpete for that brilliant download. Speak to you all again soon,Best regards, Paul.

Hi

I am considering doing cambelt change myself and have joined this forum hoping to get some detailed info.

Having trained as vehicle Technician when I left school I have necessary tools and equipment and have done cambelts on several of my cars( i don't like being held to ransom when car is at garage and would prefer to do job myself if it is possible )

Have got relevant workshop printouts, but would like to know if holes in bottom pulley are threaded to accept bolts for the puller & would universal puller kit like Machine Mart sell do the job?

Also is it possible to remove starter motor and lock flywheel ring gear ,so crank pulley bolt can be undone.

OR ,could it be undone or "cracked" with an air gun.

Regards

Hi Irwing Bronze, the holes in crankshaft pulley are threaded [8 mm] but the holes go quite deep before the threads start. The puller you need should be of the sliding pin type,only small but quite strong because the pulley is very tight. You do not have to remove starter motor, it is not necessary if you put car in 5th gear and have someone apply foot brake [that's the way I did it without any problems] the crankshaft pulley bolt is tight but no problem if you use a strong arm. If you need any more help or advice do not hesitate to contact me as I have just done this job myself very successfully and saved myself a good few quid. No doubt speak to you soon,Regards,Paul.

Hi,again not sure what you mean about the puller - this is the one i think will do the job http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...-and-seperators

Tried that method you said Re:crank pulley removal on a Honda Accord once but could not budge bolt ,then found out there was hole to allow flywheel ring gear to be locked up with lever,no problem this method.

How was the removal of auxiliary belts ,took under-tray off mine today ,look like simple bolt tensioners?

Did you remove any heater/glow plugs to allow easy engine turnover?

How visible are the line up marks ,once the new belt is on ,there isn't a lot of room down side of engine is there.

One more thing my local Toyota dealer quoted me £205.00 for just belt replacement (all inclusive parts,labour,vat) and said normally nothing else needs to be changed,but you never know where cars are concerned.

Regards

Hi, yes that puller looks fine -use the 8mm bolts. The big bolt on the crankshaft is 22mm and quite doable using that method. The auxillary belts are simple to remove. On the top one [power steering] loosen the single nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley, back the pulley off and then remove the belt[mark the direction of travel so it can refitted same way]. The bottom belt [alternator drive] has it's tensioner to the left of it and you simply turn the bolt on the tensioner clockwise to take the tension off because it swings round on a cam. You may have to remove this pulley wheel later to enable the removal of the bottom timing belt plastic cover. I didn't take out any plugs to be able to turn the engine it turns quite easily with a half inch drive ratchet and extensions [only tight on compression]. The timing marks are clear but because you will be working in an awkward area it is advisable to make your own, I did. Also you will have to remove the power steering pump because one of the securing bolts also secures the engine mounting bracket, which of course also needs to be removed [two of the bolts on this are difficult to see, best from underneath]. All of the toothed pulleys on my car were like new I don't suspect yours will be any different. Whatever the price quoted by the garage you will be saving if you do it yourself. If you need to speak to me again you know where I am. Regards,Paul.

Hi Paul,

Thank-you for quick reply and info.At present I have another 5500 miles to go which should take me well into next year,so i am going to see how this avensis is - reliability wise and maybe attempt it next year - watch -this - space ,thanks again.

Regards