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Gt4 Engine Removal


Fawbs
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been there done that. got the box on (gettin a gt4 box and transfer on isnt an easy job) only to see the release bearing sat beside me. :angry:

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been there done that. got the box on (gettin a gt4 box and transfer on isnt an easy job) only to see the release bearing sat beside me. :angry:

I haven't done that! yet.... :P

I was very concious of it happening however, and quite rightly. My dad noticed that the Bearing wasn't sitting quite right and said I'd put it on the wrong way! :lol:

That was a lot of time and irritation saved there. :yes:

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Ok did this the other night but i forgot my camera. We got the gearbox on and it was quite easy to be honest, we would have had it on in 15minutes however something stopped us. One of the spiggots off the gearbox had got stuck in the new block the upper most spiggot, so when we put them together there was 2 spiggots one of the block one on the gearbox trying to go in the same place so me and andy started scratching out heads thinking we had the orientation wrong and all sorts. I then clicked on thankfully and removed the one in the block with a stud extractor and we had it on in about an hour.

If anyone has the epc and can tell me all the part numbers for the attaching bolts and nuts to the block and how many i need of each then that would be great cause most of mine seem to have gone missing.

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Ok did this the other night but i forgot my camera. We got the gearbox on and it was quite easy to be honest, we would have had it on in 15minutes however something stopped us. One of the spiggots off the gearbox had got stuck in the new block the upper most spiggot, so when we put them together there was 2 spiggots one of the block one on the gearbox trying to go in the same place so me and andy started scratching out heads thinking we had the orientation wrong and all sorts. I then clicked on thankfully and removed the one in the block with a stud extractor and we had it on in about an hour.

If anyone has the epc and can tell me all the part numbers for the attaching bolts and nuts to the block and how many i need of each then that would be great cause most of mine seem to have gone missing.

Haven't you got a "random bolts" bag where you put all the bolts you cant figure out where they go? I had that, and it worked out eventually lol.

Glad you got it on though! An hour is what it took me so not too bad. :)

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Got some spares from the mods i done in the past and the bolts that came out. The bag i put the gearbox bolts in has gone missing it seems :S

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doh!!!. if you can pop over to me i have some spares (all the ones you need)

there are (and these are in head size)

3x 17mm

2x 14mm

1x12mm

and 1x 10mm

there are also 10x 14 mm bolts and an m10 nut for the braces that go on the transfer to block :thumbs up:

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Ok i'm going to see what i have first as thats all we went up there to do, i just put the main bolts thru but there are deffo some missing. I would Lee but my cash card has broke so i'm waiting on another card so got no petrol at the moment. I have the transfer to block bolts as i bagged that seperate.

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almost ready for the run in, glad to see it's almost finished.

just dropped off a gt-four engine at Agra in dundee for some work so there will be another yellow Four pushing 400+ ponies soon :)

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Ok just some pictures, sorry it isn't of us in action but basically we got the hoist on the engine and nose dived it into the gearbox. Propped the gearbox up with some wood and a trolley jack case and it went pretty well, nearly fell over a few times but we caught it.

The shim from supertech has turned up so i will get that in the head tomorrow and that is the head finished, i can whack it on the block set up the timing and its all ready to go in right after vegas most likely or if there is a good gap in the weather next week, i've work on my car in the very very freezing cold and its not something i want to do again if i can helpt it. Also waiting on one or two things still from toyota.

Yeh yellow fours are pretty rare and always stand out to the rest, best one is alex's 185 off the oc, 600 odd hp.

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Head isn't torqued down yet but i fancied putting the belt to see it was, was quite hard to get the hks belt as there is no give in it at all. Had to loosen off the idler to get it on, its well tight down the exhaust side and loosish down the inlet side. Is there anyway other than lining up the marks to see if you have the timing right? Someone i know has just rebuilt his mr2 and he thinks he is a tooth out as he had some serious flames and his compression was a bit low at 120psi.

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I now no longer like you on the grounds that your engine is shinier than mine...... :( :P ;)

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Trust me the camera makes it look a lot better than it is. Ok just want some pipe identification so quite a lot of pictures.

Are these the throttle body heater pipes, one from the back of the water elbow one coming off the large coolant pipe?

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Is this pipe part of the tvsv system?

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Not sure what this or where this is connected to

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The pipe my finger is on is this the vacuum feed to the dump valve

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I know the other end is plumbed into the induction kit but where does this end connect to?

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I'm guessing this is the turbo coolant feed?

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looking good.

without using a dial guage and a crank protractor the timing marks are the only way, if it looks half a tooth out then that is ok if its a tooth or more then it needs redoing.

onto the pipes

1, yes, you can link these together to bypass the TB

2, yes, you can just leave this open as you have a new turbo and external wastegate.

3, oil return from the original catch can. make sure if you dont reuse the stck catch can you blank it off as it leaks a lot of oil (as i found out :blush: )

4, yes, the one your thumb is on needs blanking if you have binned the aircon (goes to the idle up valve)

5, goes to the ISC )idle speed control valve) bottom of the throttle body, should be a long bit of black hose between the two.

6, correct. think im right in thinking your new turbo is oil cooled only? if so link to the other turbo coolant pipe.

not long before its in and running then? B)

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No its water cooled, does the oil return for the turbo have to be pointing downwards?. Yeh its just looking for a break in the weather at the moment and we will jump all over it, im really really hoping to get it in before vegas it would be great to come back to the engine in the car. Really thinking quite positive about it all especially as the gearbox went on quite easy. Only need some new leads to start it up now :-D.

I had a rummage about all the parts i have left in the boot of the celica and there isnt a lot left at all which makes me feel even better. Might take the charcoal canister out tomorrow, i will post some pics up to see what you need to do with the pipes as i know you need to route one quite high then back down to the bottom of the car so it vents to atmosphere. Will change the ignition coil while i'm at it.

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Just remembered i am waiting on those mounts, he did tell me he had to get one made up as he had none in stock so would take a couple of days longer than normal.

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yeah turbo oil return need to point down. :thumbsup:

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spot on, assuming the crank is on TDC.

weathers brightening up as well, pity its not warming up lol.

keep up the good work

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Ok guys i got a new crank pulley as that alloy one was not working out, as in, not !Removed! going on at all. Got a new oem one and it went on quite easily with a hammer and a block of wood. Lined up all the marks and it looks really good, i know the crank pulley looks a little off but think its just the angle of the camera, its hard to know which angle to look at it from.

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Now i remember talking to you about this lee, ive broke the end off the yellow well from what i take to be vacuum port, does this mean a new pump? If it does then, <the spuds of lurrrrvve>s. I think i may still have the end so i may be able to bodge it up using some hysol and a very steady hand.

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I ended up clearing up after all this since there isnt much else i can do as i am still waiting on my mounts but i found myself mounting the harness. Was quite a few heart in mouth moments as i heard some cracks thinking the wires had got brittle and i had snapped them. Thankfully it turned out to be the black heat wrap that had turned hard and decided to crack thru bending.

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you can bypass the power steering idle up valve or if you go to the breakers one from a 1990ish corolla will fit (some are metal as well).

i know new they are about £90. running without one wont hurt though (mines disconnected )

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well thats good news, whats the larger black port next to it for?

Also to let you know i cranked the engine over a few times and all seems well, the air was compressed and i heard it being expelled out the exhaust ports. The thing i was worried about was the clearances, the head was skimmed by 0.005" and the gasket is .1mm thinner than stand, read up a bit and the standard clearance on other engines was in the .100" mark so it should be safe, plus i heard no clanking or anything like that when i spun the engine. Surprising the engine turned quite nicely, i was expecting a lot more resistance especially with the stiffer dual springs on the valves then maybe its just the long torque wrench i was using ha.

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Right well setting off for the airport at 8:30am. If my plane crashes i expect lee or someone to finish off my car cause she's pretty much ready to fly and so it doesnt get scrapped! ha

Have a good month guys

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have a good time dude. see ya when you get back. stay safe.

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