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Gt4 Engine Removal


Fawbs
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Ok sorry i lost the net for a while as i have just moved bases. Managed to get the car to wittering today and ive found out the mot place across the road is quite an easy going guy and sticks the emissions tester up other exhausts so it passes haha. Going to print out the cat loop hole thing and show it to him so if anyone has the official link to it that would be great but i am going to search now

Just joined the engine bay and they have cranes, massives baths, an oven, sonic baths its got so much stuff i could have used :S oh well. Dave who is on my build team has a gt4 too and showed me the quiet way back to base from cottesmore as part the exhaust was missing so it sounded like a tank.

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Got back to wittering, parked up and noticed a cs and a 185 behind us, looks like the 185 is being a donor car for the cs, think the 185 has a carbon fibre bonnet as its black but not sure.

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You know you're cool if you can say that you have a sonic bath. :yes:

:lol:

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wow its like a small GT4 community there.

did you drive the car there then? how did it do?

shame all that kit now its done, hey ho thats life i suppose

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Yeh it was fine, i haven't set the timing yet but it rarely even saw 3k revs, i just basically rigged everything for travel, temperatures were well down which is good news. Was down on power but like i said nothings has been set for performance so it was just at a snails pace, crapped myself when i saw a traffic rozzer parked up, could have really spoiled my day. Anyway i have ordered a timing gun and my water pump is on its way, should do the water pump next weekend. Lee, should i apply some gasket seal on both sides of the gasket or should i leave it bare?

Daves car is pretty much standard but i think im going to let him have my modified down pipe, cost me 180 for the pipe and another hundred for the cat but i feel the need to help other gt4 owners ha. Probably let him have it for 50 quid if he wants it and i will get another one to modify for my turbo flange. Been giving him a few tips, i remmeber seeing his car over 2yrs ago when i was last at wittering, i like his number plate like. I figure having the cat already in my downpipe it would mean the engineer would have to cut it out and build the pipe back up from further down so probably cost more money and more tricky.

One problem he has is, when u bounce on the front right hand suspension there is a dull squeek, any advice of the top of anyones head? Not the fig 8's as he has changed them twice.

Going to go see this guys over the road about this cat test, i have that emissions page saved on my phone so should be ok.

Yeh kp, you should see the really big bath, i cant remember how it works said it fires water into or something or other but it was made for a car engine ha, might start my own block washing business.

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Right just been to see the guy across the road, he wasn't a 100% but he's done one of these on a subaru but he wasn't sure why. I showed him the page of the mot handbook which seemed to sway it for him and he said he'd do it. So there is a few more horses opened up.

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sorry i havent replied lately, just did the water pump yesterday but getting the tensioner to compress was too much for me, its proper nails. Going to use the vice at work on monday and complete it then. Plonked a bit of gasket seal on both sides of the gasket and torqued it tight. Going to set up the timing once i am done, will having the lambda sensor and egt not connected or not in the downpipe affect the timing?

Also i am going to connect up two slim line fans to the rad using just the fan plug and not the air con plug. Will this trip the fuse at all with two fans on this circuit, i know they draw less power than stock.

Problem i am having at the moment is i phoned this engineering place up in nassington i think it is and basically the guy said he will attempt to modify my downpipe but if its wrong he doesnt want to do it again and again etc, so i need a place around the peterborough area that will do it.

Mike

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hi mike.

have you looked at the ausie sport cat? sits near the flexi might be easier and you can use a normal DP with your flange welded on.

for you fans just use a big amp relay and use the original plug to power it with a live feed direct to the Battery.

you might be able to re wire the aircon fan relay though but not 100% without looking.

lambda etc shouldn't affect the timing, be sure to bridge E1 and TE1 first though then set to 10 deg.

glad its going well though

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someone suggested that a while ago but the cat is in there now so im just going to push on with this one, plus the downpipe cost 180 so i dont really want to scrap it. I'm going to get fensport to do it, might pay a little over the odds but we all know its well within their capability and you get quality.

I would wire up the air con plug but i scrapped the fine a while ago, it wasn't spinning think the relay or fuse had gone, should have really thought about it.

If i use a big amp relay will this still be controlled by the ecu? Sorry i;m pants with electronics.

I suppose i could always have a manual switch in the cabin to control the fans myself. I know it means switching them on and off but this will only be in traffic where i could just leave them running until i break free. If i did that what fuse would i need? Also considering the Battery is in the boot would i be able to take a positive tap off feed from the power cable in the engine bay and just earth the negative lead on the body somewhere, is this right?

You started yours?

Come on inter!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1-0

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  • 3 weeks later...

Right been a while, been waiting on parts etc. Anyway ive wired up two spal type fans, 11", managed to get the polarity right thankfully. JSP straight 4" intake is on and just waiting on the TTE replica air box, also got a turbo blanket which isnt the prettiest thing but it does its job. Some new wipers etc can't think what else.

Anyway need some advice on a couple of snags. When i get the timing gun out and try setup the timing, the notch on the crank pulley jumps about quite a bit, i mean its not constantly on 10deg it jumps around and i don't know if this what usually happens or what may cause it.

Ok secondly when i give the car a good revving when i let it drop back to idle freely it dips below the usual idle (700rpm?)

and stalls, sometimes it just about recovers. Any ideas if i have over looked anything?

Cheers for the texts forbes, sorry i forgot to reply still havent seen the money from her yet so might be out of luck :S

Mike

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RIght sorted one problem, ok when i connect the te1 and e1 the car dies so i can't set the timing, will this mean the timing belt is out a tooth ot two?

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er could be but did you fit the performance cams or are they stock.

big duration cams (272's) will give a very lumpy idle and the mark will move a fair bit.

check the ICV to make sure its connected (under the throttle body has a three pin plug.)

failing that adjust the throttle cable to give a higher idle speed and then try the E1 + TE1 and see if it will hold idle.

from what i remember the cam timing looked spot on.

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Its ok lee i've cracked it, i've some how messed up the timing when i did the water pump, they are a good few teeth out. Will get on this tomorrow, just quite hard cause i'm trying to watch all the footie so i'm rushing about with 3 matches a day haha. Basically everything is ready apart from the downpipe, my mate ben is going to weld it but hes away until next week then gonna book her in for the 1st for an mot as the guy agreed to do a none cat test. Then a nice 300mile round trip to see the gf and we are on the way to mapping.

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Actually i tell a lie i'm still waiting on the TTE replica cold air box but can live without that and the 45deg wastegate relocation pipe

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cool. let us know how you get on.

should make some good power.

back end of the rolla looks a bit scary at the mo. took a lot of metal out and just started putting the modified metal back in :wacko:

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You got some pictures lee? Have you welded in some mounting points for the engine?

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  • 2 weeks later...

really can't wait to see this thing hitting hte strip.

what management you going for, seen you mentioned PFC on AJCluck's thread, sure you couldn't stretch to something like a Link or Vi-PEC? or even an E-Manage Ultimate? no point in skimping on management since you've spent so much time, effort and money on the hard part for it to not be usedto full potential :thumbsup:

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Me too, just daft crap holding me up at the moment. As for management i would have thought a pfc would be better than the e-manage with it being stand alone. The vipec i have actually had a quick glance into i think and it did look good but couldnt find how much it is.

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theres a thread for it here.

really need to do some more on it but dont seem to get time just lately :(

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the link and Vi-PEC are almost exactly the same and both will probably come in about £1400 fitted and mapped, not sure if that includes VAT or not.

Thor racing are Link europe and know the system inside and out on numerous applications, drop their sales team a call as they are more than happy to answer every question you have, i've been there already lol

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the link G3 isnt a bad ecu at all.

i did an engine conversion fro ken on here in his avensis (rev 3 MR2 tubbie engine)

it was completely stock and made 327bhp @1.1 bar.

certainly good value for money

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Right just need a bit of advice, will a blitz dump valve be able to handle the uprated boost 1.6-1.8bar? I was looking at my baileys dump valve before i did my water pump and although a really good dump valve its not going to be up to the task. Second hand blitz valves are decent money and adjustable so everything i need.

Right one of my hyd tensioner attachment holes has kind of given up the ghost, the first half the threads are screwed but i think further down the hole there is good threads. I was going to buy a small angle drill and heli coil it in situ but i think i can get away with a longer bolt, from what i can work out i need a m8 x 1.25 x 50mm but i may get a 40mm and 45mm just in case that is too long. Thing is ive had a look around for one and lot of the m8 bolts dont give the pitch. A lot of them on eBay are m8 50mm, will the pitch be 1.25? If you have a good place to order from please let me know cause i want to get it all back together so ben can make my downpipe up as he is standing by. I have had a look round the search engines but i cant seem to find anything suitable, sorry for dragging this out but i am literally on the brink of getting her mot and back out into the world.

Did a test with the engine assembly lube and the millers running in oil, doesnt disolve too quick in the oil to be honest, so after 50miles of which i will be taking it easy (currently done 36miles) im going to drop the oil and replace the filter. Luckily the oil and filter arent much so its no big deal. Once done i will give it a good revving and get those piston rings bedded in.

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Right sorted this out, found a place staighting the pitch of the bolts.

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if you struggle let me know and ill have a look in me box see if i have one

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Right got a new bolt for the tensioner and seems to be ok now so no drilling required. Right got a daft question, when you look at the timing tab with the 0 and 10deg on it do you look at the 0 from directly above the timing tab or at the angle the 0deg sits at, i know its daft but it does make a difference. When i did it with the engine out i didnt really notice this. Bit urgent cause i need to get it set up tomorrow. cheers

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