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Gt4 Engine Removal


Fawbs
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Going to use millers running in oil but as for what i'm going to run it on normally is this http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1145-silkolene...ce-engines.aspx dan off gt4oc is using it on his cp piston build, its a little thicker but thats wot he recommends.

Just had a look at the blanking plugs on my sump pan, they look well stuck in.

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Millers CFS 10w-60. my oil temps are a little higher with the hardblok in and the 10w60 kepps the oil pressure up after some hard abuse

yeah the plugs are in well tight (lots of thread lock i think) i used local heat on the one i wanted out and used a good fitting alan key.

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going back to the sandwhich plate, i am looking at one on eBay for £25, it has a temp adapter aswel, are they any good, as it would save me messing about with the sump plugs

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Yeh they arent too bad i got my stuff from this site http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/Product_Summary.html got tons of stuff. If you give them a ring it is easier i found, they are a bit posh but they're ok ha. You getting a thermostat in the sandwich plate or you just going to keep an eye on the temps?

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thermo ones are better as you dont want to cool the oil too much

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well i was planning on using the thermo adapter on the sandwhich plate as i dont want to take the sump pan off again, sorry dawesy, i am a bit confused with your last post, will the method i am planning be sufficient and how does this reduce the oil temp?

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sorry may be me. im assuming you are using an oil cooler as well or just the sandich plate?

if you are just using the sandwich plate to provide a takeoff for oil temp sender then a std non thermo on will be fine.

if you are using it to feed an oil to air cooler then a thermo one is better.

sorry for the confusion. im on nights and its nearly christmas. my brain is suffering colapse lol

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ahh i see, would you suggest using an oil cooler as i aint got one at the moment.

whats the difference between a non thermo and a thermo?

i removed my steering fluid cooler for more room for my fmic, have you guys done the same?

i noticed that fensport sell a temp reducer that goes into the radiator, anyone using this?

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Havent seen that temp reducer. Ok basically even when you have the car standard people have reported oil temps of over 100 degrees, so definitely need to get the temperature down, so you add an additional cooler using a sandwich plate with a stat in it to keep the oil at 80 degrees. Cooling the oil too much can cause damage to your engine and turbo thats why you need the stat. I have a 13 row oil cooler i think, 13 or 10 i think.

I have a bigger gearbox cooler but the standard one is fine i think, mine was just a bit mashed up, ive heard about taking the power steering rad out i think so i wouldn't worry too much about that but i have a bigger cooler for that aswell. I was told a power steering cooler out of a transit van are great, its just a tube basically so easy to keep out the way and give more room.

Be prepared to go to a hydraulic fittings shop or somewhere, as i needed some adapters for my braided hoses to fit my sandwich plate, found one a few miles away, was a very sound bloke sold me 2 plus 2 seals for £2. That was only cause the kit i got the sandwich plate didnt have a thermostat and the holes that were drilled and tapped into it were a complete joke, i could have done better with a hand drill and a broken tap.

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I've found that Pirtek is a fantastic place for hydrolic lines and fittings, they have depo's all over.

the standard powersteering cooler is just a looped tube, i have seen a home made effort that was a coiled up tube, would have left it fitted if it hadn't been fitted so badly that it kinked and blocked the line almost completely.

AJ, basically the thermostated sandwich plate does the same as the thermostat for your radiator/water cooling system, keeps the oil at a more constant temperature and doesn't let it drop too low, i'd still try and fit an oil temp gague as i have heard of some people having difficulties with the thermo jamming, however i'm unsure of the quality of the product that they were using. If you do fit a cooler and not a thermo controled plate then you could always cover some of the cooler to keep temps up however this would be a short term fix and not very accurate

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oil cooler it is then! yeh i have a pirtek beside me, they came in very handy as my turbo feed lines were very wierd!

if my other half ever went on this site you lot would be in serious trouble, my shopping list seems to grow and grow!

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lol. losing the power steering cooler is ok unless you do a lot of track work, under those conditions it can overheat. i dont run one and never had any issues.

know what you mean about growing shopping lists. mine stalled for a while but im constantly looking at stuff for the RWD conversion. did look at the SPA dash setup but at £800 might have to give it a miss :(

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whooo hoooo.

need pics when it lands :thumbsup:

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Yeh thats when we find out its not genuine and i will have to go find that bloke in america. Ive checked it out as much as i can like, part number and all that. It has a 3" 4 bolt exhaust, 4" inlet and .86a/r housing.

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The bloke sent me some pics off the turbo as i wanted to make sure it was gen.

IMG_1966.jpg

IMG_1970.jpg

IMG_1973.jpg

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:eek::thumbsup: very nice

oil cooler it is then! yeh i have a pirtek beside me, they came in very handy as my turbo feed lines were very wierd!

if my other half ever went on this site you lot would be in serious trouble, my shopping list seems to grow and grow!

:unsure: don't know what you mean :bye::thumbsup: lol

were your turbo feed line's proper hydrolic screw fittings? i've seen plates for these on eBay and am tempted to add them to my stock pile as i'm going to just run a turbo technic's hybrid possibly once i've seen how my friends performs and lasts :lol:

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Cheers forbes, once i get it i will probably sleep with it everynight just to feel the power ha. God if i put it on the car and it falls apart i will cry.

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Yeh i know what you mean, i would of had it all together by now but i was waiting on some rod bolts to turn before i went on leave, unfortunately they didn't in time so there was no point in taking the engine down to my parents place, gutted! So i took the head to get all the clearances spot on and around the same size from bucket to cam lobe, there is one out at the moment but the guy is sending me a free shim from america, as i got all new butckets shims etc.

I'm going to mod my iron exhaust manifold but going to try one of those stainless steel manifolds off eBay. Im not too happy cause they use 304 stainless steel need 321 steel really but the ones that use this are all too thin, even the hks one which costs over a grand and is no longer made uses this 304 grade crap. been advised you need around 3mm thick best i have found is 2.7mm. Going to ceramic coat it, lag it and then create some support brackets off the head and original turbo bracket connecting point to take the weight of the turbo and stop the manifold from cracking. Its something i'd like to give a try if it fails then the more reliable iron one goes back on minus the divide, ported and polished. I know it will crack they all do at some point but just want to try and get some decent life out of it.

I did look for an iron aftermarket manifold for the rev3 but its only made for the 185 it seems.

Mike

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you really wont need to lag it if your ceramic coating the manifold, the coating should do the job itself. good luck with the bracket, will be interesting to see if it works so document it incase it does so we can all copy you lol

when are you going to get the chance to get it all together?

hacve you got management sorted out?

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As soon as i go back, those bolts should have turned up on base so i can whip it all back together. Think i'm going to pick up a new clutch in vegas i dont trust the one i have but these have brilliant reviews and are very well priced http://www.competitionclutch.com/products/index.php?id=300.

Then just need to make sure the engine bay is all good, probably make up some brackets for all my coolers and mount them, take out the charcoal canister aswell.

Engine management i'm going to pick up a hydra nemesis, might pick one up in america if i have the money.

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top stuff. that turbo should give you a propper kick in the back :)

the cheapo manifolds on eBay are'nt that good TBH this one is better click here not cheap though. looks sexy though

mr2_manifold_02.jpg

soon be on the road :P

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ooohh that turbo is looking tasty fawbs

is it ok to heat wrap the cast manifold or do you have to allow the heat to escape?

also thinking about removing the n/s dip light to give more air flow to the turbo, has anyone done this?

lastly, just away to put the Battery in the boot, but how do you connect the new positive cable to the existing one?

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I think a few people end up removing the light for a cold air feed, im going to get a cold air funnel/scoop and screw it onto one of the intakes below the indicators and have the ducting coming off that to the turbo.

I used screw on crimps on all my cables when i relocated the Battery

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-Battery-50MM-CABL...=item3ca6680a80

Basically them but you screw the clamp down instead of squashing it so you can re-use them, I just took the end of my crimp and the old power line and connected them by putting a bolt and nut threw them.

I know lee i'd love that manifold buts its too expensive, some guy is making them for half the price on gt4oc, 500 quid i think 3mm steel, pretty much looks the same but custom made to your requirements. Its in the group buy section i think.

I just want to see if i can make this work, i know they are pants cause the weight of the turbo just takes them out, or even rain when you turn off the engine can make them crack. Im going to give it a go anyway.

Turbo has been shipped so its on its way :gora:

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