Gt4 Engine Removal

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Yeh i could have put a lot more info when taking the engine out but this is my first engine build so was trying to concentrate on what lee was telling me and getting the thing out.

Only problem i will have putting it back together will be all the plumbing but with the tvsv system out, throttle body coolant pipes and the charcoal canister removed it should make things easier.

You'll be surprised at how much you remember mate. When you put it back together, you will link the parts with memories of taking it apart, like how you felt at the time and what you thought about it.

I was really pleased with how easily things went back together with mine, I had a bag of random bolts that was quickly depleted, the bolts all went where they originally belonged. The only thing wrong is the rear engine mount, which I did away with due to bent threads and it being a general nuisance. I will be getting a new mount because I'm pretty sure it's needed lol.

Don't rush it and it'll be easy. Take the time to enjoy it too, don;t make it a task. :)

[ajcluck]

yeh i should really get a controller for that right foot of mine or i would be running 100bar lol.

i didnt have a powerout put in mind when i was speaking to gtforbes, just said make it fast!

i got the Battery put in the boot and removed one of the headlights, just waiting on the fuel pump and need to install the cam gears........ come on 2bar!

fawbs i noticed that fensport have reduced their price for the motec m4 system, fitted and base map for 750 plus vat!

[Fawbs]

Don't tempt me aj its hard enough holding off for the ecu haha. I really need to leave it till last so i can get the car running and run the engine in, next month or two i should have it started and if i win big in vegas who knows, maybe i will come back with a nutty corvette.

The hydra even the way i am going to obtain it still may work out a little expensive for what i want with additional stuff etc so, i have been looking at this and it looks like an excellent ecu aswell, have a goosey, it would work out a lot simpler but still not decided.

http://www.tuner-deals.com/-p-1.html

Problem with that motec is that you have to buy the pro upgrade to get launch control.

Yeh kp i love this sort of stuff, i'm an engineer anyway prefer working on cars though.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Don't tempt me aj its hard enough holding off for the ecu haha. I really need to leave it till last so i can get the car running and run the engine in, next month or two i should have it started and if i win big in vegas who knows, maybe i will come back with a nutty corvette.

The hydra even the way i am going to obtain it still may work out a little expensive for what i want with additional stuff etc so, i have been looking at this and it looks like an excellent ecu aswell, have a goosey, it would work out a lot simpler but still not decided.

http://www.tuner-deals.com/-p-1.html

Problem with that motec is that you have to buy the pro upgrade to get launch control.

Yeh kp i love this sort of stuff, i'm an engineer anyway prefer working on cars though.

Awesome. ;)

[Fawbs]

Got the bolts

[dawesy]

whooo hoooo let the build commence :)

i wouldnt get the MoTec over the Hydra. with all the stuff you get on the hydra it would make the motec expensive. also the M4 while still a damn good ECU is old technology now. even the software runs in DOS mode.

remember this thread is worthless without pics :P

[Fawbs]

Right well did you some work on it last night but it didnt last long i'm afraid, it was so cold in the garage i just had to give up. I started at lunch time today so i would be working through the daytime where the temperature is slightly warmer, slightly.

Ok these are the two bolts, i didn't torque two of the eagle bolts but i couldn't remember which ones so i didn't want to take the risk. The bolts are exactly the same from what i can see and as far as i know arp2000 bolts are made from the same material.

Done the piston rings with a gap of 0.020" they were quite boring to do to be honest. The second ring which is gapless which basically has a smaller ring fitted onto it i wasn't sure about as it didn't say whether you needed to gap the smaller ring. I decided to anyway just to be on the safe side, i used a blade file which has 4 different grades of abrasive paper on them, used the two most coubik sides to file the rings down.

Torqued all the bolts on the rods to 43lbs/ft with arp lube 5 times, again fit fine like the old bolts -stupid instructions.

Got all the pistons in, that stupid gapless ring really didn't help matters, this would have been so much easier with a second person but it didnt take me too long in the end, about 30 minutes.

After that i connected up the rods to the crank, put all the new bearings and thrust washers in plus the studs and just put the main nuts on finger tight for now. Could have gone on but i had been freezing for hours and it was getting dark so was a good time to stop.

One question i have is about the thrust washers, you know one side of them has like 2 cut outs, do this side face into the bearing or into the crank?

Mike

[dawesy]

into the crank. the plain side fits against the block.

looking sweet and i love the colour

coming along nicely.

yeah filing rings is a PITA but a job worth doing well. IIRC i did mine to upper Toyota tolerance. i used a diamond file, works quite quick so care needed to be taken.

[Fawbs]

Thought i'd check but i have them the right way round. The only thing holding me back is the temperature, the garage is in the middle of the air field which is just a massive flat, so the wind freezes the garage to pieces coupled with the snow and everything, its a nightmare.

Yeh i got the paint from frosts, chevy orange, hopefully make it easier to spot any leaks.

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Brilliant, good pics and the block looks awesome in that colour. The crank is the only thing I haven't touched on mine. :)

[Fawbs]

As in you are using the OEM con rods and pistons?

[Fawbs]

Right again, !Removed! freezing, im sure my toes were getting frost bite.

Did a few bits, the 6 sump tray bolts i used loctite as one was missing when i took it all apart and i never found it :S

The oil pump gasket i stuck on with a tiny bit of gasket seal as it wouldn't stay still when i was putting the pump on. Ive transfered that spacer over to the other pump but ive noticed there is a sort of bush on the large receptacle hole which the idler pulley fits into i think. Just want to check but i take it the pump and everything is included in the new oil pump? I didn't have a look inside it so just want to be 100%

Both the crank seals were a complete pain in the ***** to get in and i had to pretty much get a bit medieval on them. Just left the alloy sump pan on just for a bit of cover for the crank.

[dawesy]

yeah all you need to swap over is the pulley and the guide (both of which you have done) the pump has been redesigned so the bush bit isnt needed.

its worth leaving the steel sump off until you have finished assembly. that way you can tip the engine upside down and pour oil into the pick up whilst turning the oil pump the correct way (clockwise as you look at it) saves a lot of time priming the oil gallery.

i pour and turn till it comes out of the oil filter location. all you need to do then is fit timing belt, steel sump and oil filter.

[GTForbes]

looking good mate, making good progress aswell

[Fawbs]

Yeh bit slow cause of the cold but its going together quite easily, just remembered aswell that i left 2 pairs of norwegian overalls at my parents place, would have come in handy. Probably pick this back up at the weekend as i am helping lou with her car and i've got gf troubles at the moment so a bit occupied unfortunately.

Turbo hasn't turned up yet, just hoping it is because of the weather and that it was posted around christmas time.

[dawesy]

yeah there is a lot of probs with postal service. ive hardly had any mail.

hope you get every thing sorted ok.

[Fawbs]

Yeh its the same here, i bought a strip of stainless steel off eBay to make some brackets for my coolers, that should have come by now.

[Fawbs]

ok managed to get some stuff done today, stuck the alloy sump pan down and used some nice cap head bolts i got from kelsport.

Will it matter when if some of the gasket seal is on the inside of the sump pan when i stuck it down? Its good stuff and with stands oil but just checking.

Tacked the flywheel on and left it there, not much done but didnt have much time.

Some nice shots of the air field, it is as cold as it looks aswell.

[ajcluck]

When i bought a turbo from america the guy i bought it from though that scotland great britain was a part of canada and sent it there first!

I used CAT gasket seal, right thick blue stuff, worked a charm, as long as it isnt a lot, as there is a change it could come a part and jam the filter

[Fawbs]

Ok whats the tips for putting the gearbox and transfer case on?

[ajcluck]

I had left the gear box in, which i soon realised was a bad idea! it was a total pig to get back in!

i found it really difficult to line both clutch plates up, are you using a twin plate clutch?

[dawesy]

get lots of mates to help!! lol.

first make sure that the clutch is perfectly centred.

then with the engine on the crane and some one steadying it get some one to help you lift the gearbox/transfer. i found the best holding points are for one guy to hole the selector leavers and the front engine mount, and the other guy to hold where the worm drive goes in then hook around the block and aim to get it in the clutch, worth noting that is the splines on your clutch are blunt I.E. no lead in to file small lead in edges to the splines.

then its a bit of wiggling and get someone to turn the crank while you wiggle the gearbox.

main thing is prep, get two of the 17mm headed gearbox to block bolts ready and a ratchet you dont want to be letting go when its in

also make sure that the back plate and release bearings are fitted! yes i have put a gearbox back on only to fine the release bearing sat next to me!

good luck

[Fawbs]

No its a single plate very harsh stage 4 clutch. What do you mean about the splines lee?

Haha i'll make sure everything is installed before we attempt it, it was a right pain getting it off, managed to do it with 2 of us. I have the clutch centering tool that should be ok shouldn't it?

Does anyone know which code loctite you are supposed to use with the flywheel bolts? I can't remember the codes think they start with a 6 usually but colourwise at work there is a clear, red, green or a blue.

[dawesy]

i normaly use blue (dunno the code)

as for the splines. if you look at the gearbox side of the friction plate at the splines some have a lead in edge. bit like this

not the best but should give you an idea of what i mean.

its not to desperate but just makes it easier to fit the box

[Fawbs]

I get what you mean and i think it does.