Need Help

[eanjohn]

HI all

i`ve just removed and replaced a 7.5 amp fuse from passenger side fuse box (am2)

and it`s killed all the ellectric, the only sign of life is the red emobleizer light flashing?

the car wont do any thing,,,,,,,thanks inadvance :(

[Davrav]

HI all

i`ve just removed and replaced a 7.5 amp fuse from passenger side fuse box (am2)

and it`s killed all the ellectric, the only sign of life is the red emobleizer light flashing?

the car wont do any thing,,,,,,,thanks inadvance :(

What was the reason for removing the fuse?

[eanjohn]

HI all

i`ve just removed and replaced a 7.5 amp fuse from passenger side fuse box (am2)

and it`s killed all the ellectric, the only sign of life is the red emobleizer light flashing?

the car wont do any thing,,,,,,,thanks inadvance :(

What was the reason for removing the fuse?

i was pulling fuses one by one too to find which one was used for the reverse sencors,

and when i got too the am2 (7.5amp) fuse every thing died and did not come back on when

i replaced the fuse, I have tested all vis fues under the bonnet and all ok??? :(

[Davrav]

HI all

i`ve just removed and replaced a 7.5 amp fuse from passenger side fuse box (am2)

and it`s killed all the ellectric, the only sign of life is the red emobleizer light flashing?

the car wont do any thing,,,,,,,thanks inadvance :(

What was the reason for removing the fuse?

i was pulling fuses one by one too to find which one was used for the reverse sencors,

and when i got too the am2 (7.5amp) fuse every thing died and did not come back on when

i replaced the fuse, I have tested all vis fues under the bonnet and all ok??? :(

That is one of the ignition system fuses - maybe the immobiliser has kicked in?

Hopefully one of the technical Gurus will be along soon and can throw some light on how to rectify the problem or, maybe you are a member of AA or RAC and they can help?

Good luck

[shcm]

As far as I can tell, that 7.5 amp AM2-2 fuse just feeds the body ECU for the push button start equivalent of the ignition switch, but have a look at the diagram yourself:

PS.pdf

Are you sure that the AM2-2 fuse you took out is still OK? Can you check the continuity with a ohmmeter or similar?

[eanjohn]

As far as I can tell, that 7.5 amp AM2-2 fuse just feeds the body ECU for the push button start equivalent of the ignition switch, but have a look at the diagram yourself:

PS.pdf

Are you sure that the AM2-2 fuse you took out is still OK? Can you check the continuity with a ohmmeter or similar?

Hi

Yes i tested with metre and its ok?

the book does say that if the Battery dies the car might nead to be normalized before it will start but i cant

find out how, the start button is lifeless? :(

[shcm]

the book does say that if the battery dies the car might nead to be normalized before it will start but i cant

find out how, the start button is lifeless? :(

Appears to be on page 358 of my handbook. It says:

1. If auto transmission, set to "P"
   
2. Set ign switch to off
   
3. open and close any of the doors
   
4. start the engine
   

Might be worth trying that, starting with all the doors and bonnet closed, though I wouldn't be surprised if you have been though something like that by accident already.

Failing that, I'm in two minds whether to suggest a Battery disconnect for a couple of minutes. Just wondering whether the body ECU has got a bit confused.

[eanjohn]

Hi shcm

yes did read that and tryed sitting in car opening doors ect but there is still no light on the start button,

also tryed disconecting Battery for half hour and still nothing,

i`ve just tested that am2 fuse for current and its got 12v going through it,

its as if the car has been imobalized, you know like after being rear ended or rolling the car

[Davrav]

Hi shcm

yes did read that and tryed sitting in car opening doors ect but there is still no light on the start button,

also tryed disconecting battery for half hour and still nothing,

i`ve just tested that am2 fuse for current and its got 12v going through it,

its as if the car has been imobalized, you know like after being rear ended or rolling the car

With earlier models it was possible to manually reset the immobiliser by following the appropriate routine but I suspect that you might have to resort to MrT with this one unfortunately :(

[shcm]

I assume if you press the start button you don't get the "no key detected" message on the instrument pack?

Have you tried holding the key against the button (toyota logo side to button) and pressing the clutch pedal, to see if you get a green button light?

[eanjohn]

yes tryed that, i have got no power to the dash except imobilizer flashing red every 3 seconds

the key fob wont operate the interiar lights as you aproach the car or open/lock doors using buttons?

thanks keep thinking

[anchorman]

I'm off to Hull today so can't spend too much time on this but I wonder if you haven't restored the power properly. I dont mean to be rude but are you sure you have put that fuse back axactly where it came from and that the circuit is restored. I've had a trawl through the manual as I'm sure shcm has and I can't see why pulling that fuse would kill everything. Just check again that you have it in the right place and then check that none of the others have gone including those near the Battery.

[eanjohn]

I'm off to Hull today so can't spend too much time on this but I wonder if you haven't restored the power properly. I dont mean to be rude but are you sure you have put that fuse back axactly where it came from and that the circuit is restored. I've had a trawl through the manual as I'm sure shcm has and I can't see why pulling that fuse would kill everything. Just check again that you have it in the right place and then check that none of the others have gone including those near the battery.

morning anchorman

yes its definately were it should be, thats why i only pulled one at a time.? :(

[shcm]

I dont mean to be rude but are you sure you have put that fuse back axactly where it came from and that the circuit is restored. I've had a trawl through the manual as I'm sure shcm has and I can't see why pulling that fuse would kill everything. Just check again that you have it in the right place and then check that none of the others have gone including those near the battery.

Well quite, I didn't want to be rude either, but when somebody says they have checked ALL the fuses, you have to take it at face value..................

Probably barking up the wrong tree, but it is almost like the body controller doesn't want to play.

Have a look at the bottom of that power distribution pdf I posted. The main body controller fuse and certification ECU supply come off an 80 amp main fuse. However, so do the headlights. Do The headlight work? (oh B**ger, the headlamp relay is controlled by the body ECU). Well if the headlight do work, at least it tells us the body ECU has power and the main 80A fuse is OK.

So, is 80A main fuse OK?

Is the main body controller supply fuse OK ( 10A ECU-B )?

Is the supply fuse to the certification ECU OK ( another 7.5A fuse - ECU B-2 )?

This might help you to see how it is all connected:

ESS_RHD.pdf

Sorry, I always find doing diagnosis remotely fairly difficult. Hopefully it is something silly like a fuse.

Absolutely everything electrical is dead? No lights (internal or external)? Can't lock the vehicle?

[anchorman]

Was the ignition switched on at the time of pulling the fuse? It is possible (and I stress remotely possible) that when pulling a fuse while it is powered up, that it causes an arc (small spark) which spikes the current and may have done similar to the ECU.

That applies to any electronic device and is the reason why there is often a warning to disconnect the Battery before any work is done but it is a small risk and you should be able to pull a fuse without causing such havoc. I have to go now but if you are lucky maybe shcm can look a bit further into the manual to see if there is any mention of a re-sync procedure. As Dave says you might end up at the dealers but I would go through it one more time. It is possible to get the fuse in a blank holder or even push it in the side of the electrical pick-ups. Take the glove box out so you can see really well.

Have you tried the second remote key?

[eanjohn]

thanks for all help :D

I found the problem when i replaced the am2 fuse it pushed one of contact down and was not completing circuit

:D new i should have spent more ime on the last thing i touched....thanks again lads

ps still got reverse buzzer screeming when i put it in reverse but i'll leave that to mr`t now...Ian

[Davrav]

Glad you are sorted and didn't have to resort to MrT . I have to say that the fuses and fuse arrangement are areally fiddly. I hope you never have to replace one - £13 for a 20 amp

[eanjohn]

Glad you are sorted and didn't have to resort to MrT . I have to say that the fuses and fuse arrangement are areally fiddly. I hope you never have to replace one - £13 for a 20 amp

BLIMEY :o I have found three spares in the fuse box I put the on eBay :D

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP,,,,,,Ian

[anchorman]

Ian

Go and look very closely at the sensors. If there is the tiniest bit of grit in that groove it will buzz coninuously. If there is, flick it out with a pin or small screwdriver. We have heard of one fail before but try yourself first. If it is out of warranty you can eliminate them by disconnecting them one by one but it is bumper off first!!

Dave

What fuse is £13 - one of those piddly little mini jobs??? I can get them in the USA for coppers, should I be importing?

[eanjohn]

Ian

Go and look very closely at the sensors. If there is the tiniest bit of grit in that groove it will buzz coninuously. If there is, flick it out with a pin or small screwdriver. We have heard of one fail before but try yourself first. If it is out of warranty you can eliminate them by disconnecting them one by one but it is bumper off first!!

It's still got warrenty so i'll let toyota play with i need to get mirror rattle sorted as well,,,thanks

[Davrav]

What fuse is £13 - one of those piddly little mini jobs??? I can get them in the USA for coppers, should I be importing?

Slow blow 20amp female contact type - actually about £11 but I elected to pay postage and packing as it had to be ordered and it's a 30 mile round trip to collect. I should have claimed it on the warranty as I am sure it was related to the AC issue I had.

Might be worth stocking up a few if you can get them ;)

[anchorman]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=WDVW&rd=1

[Davrav]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=WDVW&rd=1

Unfortunately not - though they show female fuses, ours are a different pattern

I would say go and pull one and you'll see what I mean but after the trouble Ian has had............................