Avensis 2.0 D4d Reliability

[blackcts]

Hi,

Saw a clean 03 Model MK2 Avensis 2.0 D4D with 80k. Whats the common faults with these? Do these have the same head gasket problems like the 2.2?

Cheers

[Hati]

That old 2.0 D-4D is a 1CD-FTV engine. It's a litle stronger because of the iron block and lower power output. It still has head problems if the old owner doesn't let it run on idle after driving, like all turbo engines.

[Beagh1958]

To blackcts,

From my own personal knowledge of car, they are very reliable. They had a problem with the DMF flywheel set-up (every taxi driver in Ireland will tell you about this, but they all still drive them) also headlamps used to play up due to moisture getting into them due to faulty seals on covers for access to bulbs. They would have been the main points. Sorry, should have added, dipped beam is complete crap even with brand new H/lamps. Compare it to a Vectra to see the difference.

Just check your service history, make sure all paperwork is in order & have a mechanic check car over for you. Also forget the long life servicing rubbish & change oil & all filters every 10,000 miles (instead of 20.000 miles) & as Hati suggests to aid life of Turbo leave car running for a short while before & after every run.

Don't be put off by what would appear to be a multitude of problem's on this forum, for every car on here with problem, you will have another twenty odd on the road day - in day - out giving good service.

Remember this is Toyota - Land, so if your not happy with car, walk away, Don't pay over the odd's as you have hundreds of these cars up for sale. Should you end up buying from dealer, make sure it has a long NCT.

Regards, Beagh.

PS: Make sure cambelt was changed at 60,000 mile service. If belt let's go, your engine will be pretty much scrap.

[igormus]

To blackcts,

From my own personal knowledge of car, they are very reliable. They had a problem with the DMF flywheel set-up (every taxi driver in Ireland will tell you about this, but they all still drive them) also headlamps used to play up due to moisture getting into them due to faulty seals on covers for access to bulbs. They would have been the main points. Sorry, should have added, dipped beam is complete crap even with brand new H/lamps. Compare it to a Vectra to see the difference.

Just check your service history, make sure all paperwork is in order & have a mechanic check car over for you. Also forget the long life servicing rubbish & change oil & all filters every 10,000 miles (instead of 20.000 miles) & as Hati suggests to aid life of Turbo leave car running for a short while before & after every run.

Don't be put off by what would appear to be a multitude of problem's on this forum, for every car on here with problem, you will have another twenty odd on the road day - in day - out giving good service.

Remember this is Toyota - Land, so if your not happy with car, walk away, Don't pay over the odd's as you have hundreds of these cars up for sale. Should you end up buying from dealer, make sure it has a long NCT.

Regards, Beagh.

PS: Make sure cambelt was changed at 60,000 mile service. If belt let's go, your engine will be pretty much scrap.

+1

[Erkko S]

They are known to be as reliable as a car can be. Possibly not as legendary reliable as Carina, but, well maintained, very very close. And they do not get rust as fast...

Being a long term (old-)Toyota- user, I was just shocked to learn how life is with other makes. So to say...

[JohnYossarian]

They are known to be as reliable as a car can be. Possibly not as legendary reliable as Carina, but, well maintained, very very close. And they do not get rust as fast...

Being a long term (old-)Toyota- user, I was just shocked to learn how life is with other makes. So to say...

I had the flywheel and the clutch replaced. The headlamps was done under their extended warranty. The car is nice to drive and touch wood, very reliable. If I had to buy another one now I would go for the same make again.

Can anyone elaborate on the "prolong turbo's life by letting the engine idle before and after run" statement?

I have not seen this before (most likely due to my ignorance on the subject) but a bit more info (for how long, winter or summer or always, etc) will be much appreciated! I think there might be other forum members out there that would also benefit form this info.

Good luck with your choice!

Cheers,

Jordan

[Erkko S]

Can anyone elaborate on the "prolong turbo's life by letting the engine idle before and after run" statement?

That makes sense, since the turbo runs on very high RPM and thus lubrication is critical. The turbo does not rev much at idle (you can hear it after 1500 RPM or so. IF you cut the engine from high RPM you create the situation where th turbo is still revving but the oil pump has quit - leaving turbo dry. Similarly when starting you want the oil pump to feed oil to the turbo bearings before kicking it too hard.

Also avoiding the extreme temperature jumps is wise. It is nicer for your engine to do the warming and cooling just a bit slower, avoiding excessive wear due uneven temperatures of mating parts.

This claim is very familiar from older engines which really needed such procedures to last. I think with latest engine technology it is not very critical thing. But it definitely does not harm to take aforementioned habit.. Just my 2c.

[JohnYossarian]

Can anyone elaborate on the "prolong turbo's life by letting the engine idle before and after run" statement?

That makes sense, since the turbo runs on very high RPM and thus lubrication is critical. The turbo does not rev much at idle (you can hear it after 1500 RPM or so. IF you cut the engine from high RPM you create the situation where th turbo is still revving but the oil pump has quit - leaving turbo dry. Similarly when starting you want the oil pump to feed oil to the turbo bearings before kicking it too hard.

Also avoiding the extreme temperature jumps is wise. It is nicer for your engine to do the warming and cooling just a bit slower, avoiding excessive wear due uneven temperatures of mating parts.

This claim is very familiar from older engines which really needed such procedures to last. I think with latest engine technology it is not very critical thing. But it definitely does not harm to take aforementioned habit.. Just my 2c.

Thanks for explanation!

I never rev the engine before it reaches a certain temperature and when I switch the engine off it is usually from 800-1000 rpm at the moment of turning the key off.

Cheers.

[Heidfirst]

This claim is very familiar from older engines which really needed such procedures to last. I think with latest engine technology it is not very critical thing. But it definitely does not harm to take aforementioned habit.. Just my 2c.

it's in the manual for my 2007 D4D to allow certain times at idle before shutting down if you have been doing constant high speed work.

[Hati]

Can anyone elaborate on the "prolong turbo's life by letting the engine idle before and after run" statement?

That makes sense, since the turbo runs on very high RPM and thus lubrication is critical. The turbo does not rev much at idle (you can hear it after 1500 RPM or so. IF you cut the engine from high RPM you create the situation where th turbo is still revving but the oil pump has quit - leaving turbo dry. Similarly when starting you want the oil pump to feed oil to the turbo bearings before kicking it too hard.

Also avoiding the extreme temperature jumps is wise. It is nicer for your engine to do the warming and cooling just a bit slower, avoiding excessive wear due uneven temperatures of mating parts.

This claim is very familiar from older engines which really needed such procedures to last. I think with latest engine technology it is not very critical thing. But it definitely does not harm to take aforementioned habit.. Just my 2c.

Thanks for explanation!

I never rev the engine before it reaches a certain temperature and when I switch the engine off it is usually from 800-1000 rpm at the moment of turning the key off.

Cheers.

It's in every car manual that has D-4D engine... I had a warning sticker even in the visor on my old T22 2001 model.

[cmia]

5 years on hackney carriage

450k later

still going strong!

[JohnYossarian]

Can anyone elaborate on the "prolong turbo's life by letting the engine idle before and after run" statement?

That makes sense, since the turbo runs on very high RPM and thus lubrication is critical. The turbo does not rev much at idle (you can hear it after 1500 RPM or so. IF you cut the engine from high RPM you create the situation where th turbo is still revving but the oil pump has quit - leaving turbo dry. Similarly when starting you want the oil pump to feed oil to the turbo bearings before kicking it too hard.

Also avoiding the extreme temperature jumps is wise. It is nicer for your engine to do the warming and cooling just a bit slower, avoiding excessive wear due uneven temperatures of mating parts.

This claim is very familiar from older engines which really needed such procedures to last. I think with latest engine technology it is not very critical thing. But it definitely does not harm to take aforementioned habit.. Just my 2c.

Thanks for explanation!

I never rev the engine before it reaches a certain temperature and when I switch the engine off it is usually from 800-1000 rpm at the moment of turning the key off.

Cheers.

It's in every car manual that has D-4D engine... I had a warning sticker even in the visor on my old T22 2001 model.

It is indeed. I have a question though, if I had traveled for three hours at average 70 mph and spend the last 2-3 miles at 30-40 mph do I still have to follow the recommended 2 mins idling or should I consider as city driving, thus no idling?

CMIA this is a very impressive figure! Have you changed the oil every 5000 miles? What type of oil have you used. Would it be better using mineral and change it every 4000-5000 miles or is it better going for full synthetic and replace it at 10 000 miles interval?

Thanks!

[cmia]

Oil is changed every 4k

with oil filter.

Use Mineral oil, just generally buy the cheapest around but branded

EGR Valve, and Maf cleaned every 20k

THe beauty is, this is not the only car that has done so much mileage, alot of them have been taken off at 300k. but i know one of 450k, and mine at 275k.

these cars are awsome

[JohnYossarian]

Oil is changed every 4k

with oil filter.

Use Mineral oil, just generally buy the cheapest around but branded

EGR Valve, and Maf cleaned every 20k

THe beauty is, this is not the only car that has done so much mileage, alot of them have been taken off at 300k. but i know one of 450k, and mine at 275k.

these cars are awsome

I will definitely follow this. I can imagine cleaning the MAF (is this really easy?) but I am not so sure I would manage to clean the EGR. I looked for some extra info on the forum but I am still unclear do I need to take the EGR out to clean it or do I somehow apply carb cleaner and let it go through slowly?

The EGR seems a bit more sophisticated to be handled with ease. Or am I wrong?

Cheers!

[cmia]

both very easy to clean on the older engines...

However you have to remmber that if done incorrectly can damage the sensor.

the D4D 2.0 EGR is a simple design, it has a vacum pipe and some electronics on the side,

unplug, undo the screws and clean, then reassamble.

[JohnYossarian]

both very easy to clean on the older engines...

However you have to remmber that if done incorrectly can damage the sensor.

the D4D 2.0 EGR is a simple design, it has a vacum pipe and some electronics on the side,

unplug, undo the screws and clean, then reassamble.

Mine is Avensis MK2 D4-D 2.0 TX3 so I guess this should fall into the "old engines". A friend of mine has Autodata so I will have a look for details on how to take it out.

Thanks again!

Cheers!

[cmia]

both very easy to clean on the older engines...

However you have to remmber that if done incorrectly can damage the sensor.

the D4D 2.0 EGR is a simple design, it has a vacum pipe and some electronics on the side,

unplug, undo the screws and clean, then reassamble.

Mine is Avensis MK2 D4-D 2.0 TX3 so I guess this should fall into the "old engines". A friend of mine has Autodata so I will have a look for details on how to take it out.

Thanks again!

Cheers!

If its a Mark 2, it cant be a TX3,

Mark 3's are TX3

what reg is yours ?

[JohnYossarian]

both very easy to clean on the older engines...

However you have to remmber that if done incorrectly can damage the sensor.

the D4D 2.0 EGR is a simple design, it has a vacum pipe and some electronics on the side,

unplug, undo the screws and clean, then reassamble.

Mine is Avensis MK2 D4-D 2.0 TX3 so I guess this should fall into the "old engines". A friend of mine has Autodata so I will have a look for details on how to take it out.

Thanks again!

Cheers!

If its a Mark 2, it cant be a TX3,

Mark 3's are TX3

what reg is yours ?

It's 03.April 2003 but I think I read it somwhere that the D4-D engine is the same. The EGR valve however might not be... I do not know

[cmia]

take a picture of ur engine bay please

thanks

[JohnYossarian]

take a picture of ur engine bay please

thanks

I will today after work. Otherwise the acronyms of the engine are 1CD-FTV.

EDIT: I came back late to found out that my camera Battery was down. No time for recharge so I took a picture from the Toyota manual that corresponds to my engine type. The EGR is shown and I hope it is the same you had in mind.

I hope uploading this image does not break any forum rules.EGR.pdf

[JohnYossarian]

take a picture of ur engine bay please

thanks

I will today after work. Otherwise the acronyms of the engine are 1CD-FTV.

EDIT: I came back late to found out that my camera Battery was down. No time for recharge so I took a picture from the Toyota manual that corresponds to my engine type. The EGR is shown and I hope it is the same you had in mind.

I hope uploading this image does not break any forum rules.EGR.pdf

Hi CMIA

I have added a picture of the EGR (see above) that is for my diesel engine

[cmia]

Your EGR valve is easy to work on...

Remove top engine cover

disconnect electronics

disconnect vaccum pipe

Two bolts hold EGR to engine ..

untiten the bolts ...

Look inside the EGR...

You can use degreaser or ... diesel fuel to clean..

For best results leave to soak in diesel for 1 hour,

clean with a tooth brush, then check EGR diaphram,

should be a green or red plastic (inside the EGR)

push the the diaphram up (valve should open)

do it afew times.. clean again if necessary..

dry and reverse the instructions of removal

[JohnYossarian]

Your EGR valve is easy to work on...

Remove top engine cover

disconnect electronics

disconnect vaccum pipe

Two bolts hold EGR to engine ..

untiten the bolts ...

Look inside the EGR...

You can use degreaser or ... diesel fuel to clean..

For best results leave to soak in diesel for 1 hour,

clean with a tooth brush, then check EGR diaphram,

should be a green or red plastic (inside the EGR)

push the the diaphram up (valve should open)

do it afew times.. clean again if necessary..

dry and reverse the instructions of removal

Thanks CMIA!

I will see if the weather would be good this weekend if not it should happen next week. I am also going to clean the MAF as I have read some interesting stories about soot clogged MAF that gives wrong readings to the automatic gearbox thus deteriorating the driving experience. I have noticed in the mirror that upon acceleration the car gives away quite a bit of smoke. I know it is normal for diesel engines but looking at some BMW and Audi's on the motorway I have the feeling that they somehow have managed to reduce it.

My hope is that cleaning the EGR and the MAF would improve things. MPG should also be affected should it not? At least on paper ;)

When you mention the diaphragm is this piece safe when using diesel fuel or carb cleaner for the EGR?

I will try to take some pictures (Battery has been charged) as I do it and will post afterwards.

Cheers,

Jordan

[cmia]

Its a ridgid plastic...

You will be ok

Cleaning it correctly will increase performance.

good luck