Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


  • Join Toyota Owners Club

    Join Europe's Largest Toyota Community! It's FREE!

     

     

Tyres


jn2007
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

My Auris is just over 2yrs old, 25-000 on the clock.

I am thinking of changing the tyres about ( as per the manual ) to even out tyre ware.

Fronts warn more than rears.

Good idea or not ?

Regards j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bad idea. My Dad quotes me the Toyota manual and I like many people disagree with it. Always have the best tyres on the back to prevent over steer.

Chuck away the fronts. Move the backs to the front and add new tyres to the back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1, best tyres should be at the back.

Best regards, Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites


You are both right and sort of wrong. Changing them from front to rear is not a a good idea if they are really wear out. But also buying new and putting them in the back and move the older ones to the front is not really necessary and it is more advisable to have new ones in the front. In the back the wear out is normally more slow. I changed my front at 50000 kms. Front were all flat back almost as new. Placed 2 new front.

My suggestion is change the front and in another 50 000 change the all 4 or if u want to save some money do what was suggested move the back to front and buy 2 new for the back. Probably you can make more 25 000 kms with those. But the best is just check how they look.

It is more likely that you have to make emergency brakings then correct over-steer specially in city driving. Also thats is what the VSC is there for. So putting 2 new front tyres will improve your braking.

What I don't agree is many people just changing front to back when they are half flat thats a very bad idea normally but its a way of saving money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ALWAYS have the best tyres on the rear

If the front starts to loose grip you often feel through feedback if your pushing it or if its struggling for grip. If you ignore these signs VSC normally sorts it out.

However, if the rears are worn and fronts are in good condition you will end up steering well enough but the back cannot maintain grip. In dry you have to be going quick but in the wet its lethal. Once the grip is lost on the back end, there is no feedback and chance to adjust steering and speed, even VSC is unlikely to help. You will just go into a flat spin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was a passenger in a hire car with bald tyres on the rear which resulted in a big crash on the M6 toll in the wet. Car spun 5 times hitting the barrier twice, ripped off a wheel and smashed the back in. The cause? Tyres were bald and couldn't clear the water for the speed we were travelling which was less than 70.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it will always be more difficult to control unexpected oversteer, than unexpected understeer, specially on a Front Mounted Engine vehicle. and as mentioned above, aquaplanning on the RR is not a nice thing to experience (I have...and it was because i was stingy and miss-informed about tyres...I have learnt my lessonS... never compromise on tyres, it is not worth it... )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with you guys but only if we are talking about half or totally bald tires in the back. Which for sure is not the case. Changing from front to back is not a good idea as I said above but putting new in the back and changing the ones on the back to front it's not totally necessary unless off course they are really in bad shape.

And also even with bald tires on your back as you guys said depends of how you drive, how likely you catch hard weather conditions and so on.

The main issue is not having tires in bad condition in the back to avoid surprises.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

(...) putting new in the back and changing the ones on the back to front it's not totally necessary unless off course they are really in bad shape.

(...)

I think having the safest handling setup is totally necessary, and I hope we are talking about rotating tyres with 3mm minimum tread depth...anything below this, you are going into "replace completely" rather than rotate. ( I know the legal limit is 1.6 but ask any expert and anything below 3 mm is going into rhigh risk )

Also , if the tyres are in bad shape is not a matter of whether it is ok to move them back to front or front to back ... :o

just replace them!

I find very reckless giving advice on safety related aspects based on assumptions and personal experience without having decent data to back it up...

So here is my back up ;) , specially recommend the Pirelli section "about tyres" and "driving safely"

http://www.pirellityre.com/web/technology/...ly/default.page

www.michelin.co.uk/...worn-tyres-rear/20070314172074.html

http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/...g_tyres_en.html

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/safety/ar...11/article.html

etc etc etc etc etc etc etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While I can understand everyone saying put new on back and rotate back to front, I say no. If you need new on the front get them, if you need new on the back get them. Brake biase in most cars is set to the front so personally I want the best tyres where they will get most use and be most effective for most situations. I brake alot more then the I hurtle round corners. If the back steps out I want all the grip I can have at the front to pull it out.

Rotating can even out the wear and make tyres last longer. Wear on the rears (for fwd) is a lot slower then on the front. Therefore manufactors get you thinking aint these tyres great they are wearing well. But put on the front and they will wear quicker. But tyre rotation for econemy reasons is a only a one off benifit, you only get the first rotation for free after that you are always paying catch up so make no real gain (especially if you are keeping the car long term)

But at the end of the day the choice is yours you are the one driving it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


While I can understand everyone saying put new on back and rotate back to front, I say no. If you need new on the front get them, if you need new on the back get them. Brake biase in most cars is set to the front so personally I want the best tyres where they will get most use and be most effective for most situations. I brake alot more then the I hurtle round corners. If the back steps out I want all the grip I can have at the front to pull it out.

Rotating can even out the wear and make tyres last longer. Wear on the rears (for fwd) is a lot slower then on the front. Therefore manufactors get you thinking aint these tyres great they are wearing well. But put on the front and they will wear quicker. But tyre rotation for econemy reasons is a only a one off benifit, you only get the first rotation for free after that you are always paying catch up so make no real gain (especially if you are keeping the car long term)

But at the end of the day the choice is yours you are the one driving it.

if the tyres have 3mm or more the tyres at the front will work fine with the front bias as you say... if you are talking about having nearly worn out tyres at the front, then I will say you are mad and get them replaced.

having a foward bias does not mean you have to sacrifice the RR, if anything you have to ensure the RR continue to grip to ensure vehicle stability.

When you brake the whol car nose dives, lifts the RR and if you have worn tyres on the RR it will loose grip, lock the RR and cause instability, spin, potentially loose control, potentially crash , potentially be fatal...

The experts say new on the RR , just do it, listen to the experts...

I rotate my tyres every 5000-6000 and replace them as soon as they go below 3mm tread depth...I replace all 4 at the same time. I might be overcautious but I have experienced first hand listening to comments like the above .... and it is not pleasant. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a puncture last night and tyre is scrap as the dunlop sport sp01 is discontinued I have bought 4 x Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Vredeste...ac-Sessanta.htm they cost me £335 and will get them fitted at the weekend

Got the Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta fitted, the weather is lightly wet and just like the reviews on the website say the grip is very poor. After I had done about 6 miles I nailed the car and unlike after when they was just fitted and the traction control was cutting in they just gripped and gripped, now most people say they take about 50 miles to rubber in before you get max grip but already they are awesome. My conclusion from these tyres so far is 10/10 but I suppose only time will tell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a puncture last night and tyre is scrap as the dunlop sport sp01 is discontinued I have bought 4 x Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Vredeste...ac-Sessanta.htm they cost me £335 and will get them fitted at the weekend

Got the Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta fitted, the weather is lightly wet and just like the reviews on the website say the grip is very poor. After I had done about 6 miles I nailed the car and unlike after when they was just fitted and the traction control was cutting in they just gripped and gripped, now most people say they take about 50 miles to rubber in before you get max grip but already they are awesome. My conclusion from these tyres so far is 10/10 but I suppose only time will tell.

Hi mate,

another intersting topic for me, tyres!

Could I ask what the noise levels are like, cos mine is like sitting in a tumble dryer (not that I have tried this!) especially on the motorways at 70mph+

Best wishes

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a puncture last night and tyre is scrap as the dunlop sport sp01 is discontinued I have bought 4 x Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Vredeste...ac-Sessanta.htm they cost me £335 and will get them fitted at the weekend

Got the Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta fitted, the weather is lightly wet and just like the reviews on the website say the grip is very poor. After I had done about 6 miles I nailed the car and unlike after when they was just fitted and the traction control was cutting in they just gripped and gripped, now most people say they take about 50 miles to rubber in before you get max grip but already they are awesome. My conclusion from these tyres so far is 10/10 but I suppose only time will tell.

Hi mate,

another intersting topic for me, tyres!

Could I ask what the noise levels are like, cos mine is like sitting in a tumble dryer (not that I have tried this!) especially on the motorways at 70mph+

Best wishes

Paul

the dunlops where very quite on mine and these are the same etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest Deals

Toyota Official Store for genuine Toyota parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via eBay links

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share






×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership


  • Insurance
  • Support