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St205 Help


licksrpm
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i did have a look but is that the real name sorry lol but realy cant find it i wanted t oget a loads incase i mess up the first go haha but umm no luck finding it on demon tweaks im guessing its a coller of job ?

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cheers mate hope you dont mind me hasseling you sorry lol , ummm if you dont mind me asking where did you get the 2.5 down pipe ? i swear there all 3" :(

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cheers mate hope you dont mind me hasseling you sorry lol , ummm if you dont mind me asking where did you get the 2.5 down pipe ? i swear there all 3" :(

oh and is it worth looking into manifolds ?

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Its ok mate i have nothing on this weekend as ive stripped my engine completely and did all my drinking on thursday ha.

http://www.tbdevelopments.com/catalog/prod...products_id=211 check that out mate you can use that with the 3" downpipe

haha spot on lol i think i should go for the 2.25 ring then . is it worth bothering with manifolds i guess cat back would free it up a fair bit anyway but just curious ,

so far im after a

blits boost control with overboost alarm etc,

turbo timer ,

down pipe and system with 2.25 ring ,

i have the hks induction came with the car

and then i want a down pipe with heat wrap as you sugested ,

heat proof the top mount cooler and idealy

a rad upgrade does that sound efficient enough for 1.1 bar im hoping it will be sweet when its done

im also gettin bc coilovers :P

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Manifolds are fine. Keep in mind you will have to chop and change for the mot. What i mean is when it comes to the mot you will have to put the original cat back on and its a right pain in the *****, it was a pain in the ***** on mine taking it off as i had to saw thru a bracket. I wouldn't waste money on a turbo timer just let the car run for about 3 minutes before you turn it off haha save some money.

Mike

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Manifolds are fine. Keep in mind you will have to chop and change for the mot. What i mean is when it comes to the mot you will have to put the original cat back on and its a right pain in the *****, it was a pain in the ***** on mine taking it off as i had to saw thru a bracket. I wouldn't waste money on a turbo timer just let the car run for about 3 minutes before you turn it off haha save some money.

Mike

got ya so with the bits i stated i wont be running any risks ? and cheers mate few weeks and il start buying :P few more weeks wages lol all good thanks

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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MR2-Turbo-CELICA-GT4...=item35a42dc9f1 you could use this which has a sports cat built into it and it would pass the mot.

Or

You put your decat on get a new exhaust system, take the exhaust system to a machinist, get the front pipe chopped in 2 and get a sports cat welded into it which is probably the better option as de-cats can crack.

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kool i was eyeing that up earlier lol and that will be fine if i use the reducer ring with that .? cheers mate

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kool i was eyeing that up earlier lol and that will be fine if i use the reducer ring with that .? cheers mate

yeh it will be fine and will pass the mot if u use that which is what i have except i made mine.

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If you are ever doing anything when i go to my parents house i can give you a hand if you like cause i come down the a43/a34. No job is straight forward on this car you always run into some sort of snag

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be careful if you are cranking the boost up to 1.1bar and have suporting mods like decat as this tends to introduce boost creep. thats how i blew my engine!

But if u get a 2.5" downpipe they don't tend to creep its the 3"' that usually creep.

Only if you have a full 3" system.....if you have a standard exhaust, or something like the Mongoose or Blueflame exhaust which are both 2.5" then you will be fine and very unlikely to suffer boost creep unless you havnt set you boost controller up correctly.

DeCAT pipes

There are a couple of downpipes available out there...XS Power, berk technology, Aussie & TB Developments. The XS downpipes of old were without a doubt terrible, bad fitment issues and prone to cracking, but the new ones are much better, spot on fitments and slightly better quality material (theres even one with a built in sports cat, but its only a 120cel so will still fail its MOT) Aussie downpipes are over expensive metal pipes that are also prone to cracking, berk Technology and TB developments both offer a downpipe with flexi sections in them, both reasonable prices and both fit extremely well....both 3" but unless you have a full 3" system you will be fine and be very unlikely to suffer boost creep.

Boost Controllers

Where to begin...depends on your budget really....a simple bleed valve will do the job, but has no control form inside the car, and initial setting up can be a bit hair raising.

If you want to spend a little more, then an electronic boost controller will soon be calling...the best one IMO is the Apexi AVCr which has all sorts of ways of controlling the boost...its expensive and complicated, but an excellent and very underused piece of kit by most who have one, cant fault mine and I love it. A cheaper and more basic electronic boost controller is available from the likes of Greddy....two basic controls...gain and peak. peak is obviously your upper boost limit....gain is basically how long the boost solenoid stays open for per second (how agresively the controller controls the boost)

running 1.1 bar you should be OK but anything over the standard settings will be a "risk". With a mapable ECU I ran 1.3 bar on standard internals for about 80,000 miles before I turned it back down to 0.9 bar with o damage at all....I know people who have had things go bang at 0.9 bar.

Lagging the Charge cooler

For this you`ll need a heat resistant felt....anything less and your wasting your time and money.

This is the absolute minimum you should be looking at

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...;pcode=NIM14130

£20 will buy you a roll big enough to do 3 charge coolers. stick it on with spray on impact adhesive....then sell the rest to your mates and turn a profit :)

Manifolds

Dont bother....exhaust manifold is good for at least 400BHP and flows pretty well...inlet manifold is also good until running big power

Inlet

Most people go out and chuck a cone filter under the engine bay.....this will get you pretty much no where...even a step backwards. your best and cheapest option it to clean out the standard airbox and put in a nice high flow air filter, but alot of people like the induction noise from a cone filter.....at the very least you should have a big fat cold air feed pipe from the inner wing and some kind of barrier between that and the hot engine bay....a home made cold air box is easily done from basic materials.....I made mine from alloy sheet riveted together....I know someone who made theres from a cardboard box and just covered it in fibre glass resin. Looked a bit odd but it works well enough. You could go a step further and move the Battery to either above the gear box, or to the boot...then have a straight intake, but again you`ll need a cold air box of some type.

Intercoolers

A good and simple improvement over the standard charge cooler. can be added at any stage of modification and you will get some benefit, they look a bit unsightly and are a pig to put together (you`ll also be left with an error code 54 problem to solve) Not necessary until your running well into 350bhp+ but even in a standard car it will cool your intake temps well and help prevent knock......or do what I did and build your own charge cooler...not recommended though as it took me over a year to design and build and cost a small fortune.

All of the above should get you to about 300BHP or maybe even slightly over. To get the extra you should really think about a mappable ECU. That should get you to about 340bhp but then your at the very limits of both the turbo and the fuel system and you are entering the rehlms of big money. as its at this point you need to start thinking about intercoolers, improved cooling systems, uprated fuel pumps, bigger turbo, electronic ignition systems, lightened flywheels, bigger clutches etc etc the list is endless.

Remember though that every car is different, any adaptation from standard is a risk.

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...=tab%3DWatching Alright mate thats the cheapest ive seen a trd low temp thermostat if u contact the guy its about 14 dollars shipment to the uk so about 39 quid in all, bargain. I'm probably going to get one in a minute
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cheers mate helps il have to get one there if i cant ? there one i saw thats a 65degree thermostat how low is good enough ? if you know what i mean surely if you have it to low the fan will be on all the time

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Its a 71degree stat, i think the standard one is 81 degree. i just got one, if it won't let you 'buy it now' just make an offer of 67 dollars and leave him a message saying you have included this in the price.

Where you up to with the car?

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Its a 71degree stat, i think the standard one is 81 degree. i just got one, if it won't let you 'buy it now' just make an offer of 67 dollars and leave him a message saying you have included this in the price.

Where you up to with the car?

well i had a set back can tell you but its a bit of a story lol and im hoping to start buyin in the parts within the next week or so

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Whats the story, morning glory.

lol not today, basicly i watched a moron badly reverse n nock my car i saw it n he had a sly look around n tried drivin of till i jumped in front of his van n it was a company van so his boss had to pay up :P but its all good bumper justed had a crack only light damamge but its all good looking sweet :P .

so this week im goin to start buyin parts in :P

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I'm afraid of what i would do to someone damaging my car after all the work i am putting into it. I'd rip their ears off

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What parts you getting?

oh beliva me i was ******! mate i allways react funny when somthing like that happens but i ran in front of his van n stoped him n said if you ent insured your **** avin it lol !Removed! jokes but it was light damage thankfully and fixed now but deffinatly not the point mate . and well im goin to order some of the sheeting to cover the cooler n then il get a new rad like we spoke of, and then thermostat and boost controller i guess oh sorry and turbo timer ,

the car came with a rear section after market exhast the weld lines had better days but a specialist has doen a great job on it for 40 quid :P a slow start due to that but im goin to start getin bits in :P

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Nice one get some pictures up when you start installing stuff.

right this is goin to be an on going build but i think i have got the ball rolling plus a sold my calibra so a few quid for parts :P

the car when i bought it came with a standerd rear section in the boot and a after market one in need of welding and was done by a specilast very good job too so now the bumper has been repaired and looking mint will update soon

post-83655-1257117405_thumb.jpg

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