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Bulbs : Hir2 = 9012 ?


bilmuche
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This is the most exiting topic sinds this forum started!! :bookworm:

also interesting & useful :

Upgrading The Interior Light? :cheers:

You may have a look at rudyfromholland's topics... and maybe ask him for some tips ?

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Mine are on their way.

Any hints on fitting?

I will take photos etc whilst doing it incase their of interest.

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left side :

post-85393-1259605978_thumb.jpg

post-85393-1259606012_thumb.jpg

Looks quite simple.

Now for some headlamp washers and auto levelling suspension (probably easier than auto levelling lights):)

Oh and a Supercharger ( I wish)

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One question Bilmuche,

How are you finding the heat from the Bulb.

I presume its not hot enough to melt the internal of the lights, as some bits are plastic.

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One question Bilmuche,

How are you finding the heat from the Bulb.

I presume its not hot enough to melt the internal of the lights, as some bits are plastic.

There is no heat with xenon... it's nearly cold.

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One question Bilmuche,

How are you finding the heat from the Bulb.

I presume its not hot enough to melt the internal of the lights, as some bits are plastic.

i'll have a look... but Salsadicto is right (xenon is cold)

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Hi,

One other question:

Are they the high beam as well or is that a seperate bulb?

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Hi,

One other question:

Are they the high beam as well or is that a seperate bulb?

I've already written that :

What I've seen on my iQ3 (not sure it's the same on iQ1/2)

It's only one bulb. This bulb named HIR2 is a mono filament bulb. low & high beam obtained by move of reflector.

:rolleyes:

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Hi guys. Thx for all your info.

I've got my "daylight white" headlights, without installing a xenon converter kit.

I've just replaced the HIR2 bulb with a HB4(9006) "xenon-white"bulb.(they fit perfect, no adjustment have to be made)

I'm aware that any chanches(except a proper xenon HID-kit) is a certain downgrade in light compared to our HIR2. That's the reason why I ordered higher wattage bulbs(to compensate). I've builded in (cheap)80watts "xenon-white" HB4 bulbs, just to test en see the result. I love it optical, but functional.....i don't know yet. I rather want these 100watt bulbs, but I'm afraid it's getting to hot in the headlightunit.

First I'll drive these bulbs fot a while before I'll order these 100watt bulbs.

Hard to make a proper foto, but my IQ's right side has this HB4-bulb in it(see link/picture below)

post-75107-1260057683_thumb.jpg

Anyway I'm as happy as a small kid :yahoo:

Greetzzzzzzzzzz,

Brian

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Hi guys. Thx for all your info.

I've got my "daylight white" headlights, without installing a xenon converter kit.

I've just replaced the HIR2 bulb with a HB4(9006) "xenon-white"bulb.(they fit perfect, no adjustment have to be made)

I'm aware that any chanches(except a proper Xenon HID-kit) is a certain downgrade in light compared to our HIR2. That's the reason why I ordered higher wattage bulbs(to compensate). I've builded in (cheap)80watts "xenon-white" HB4 bulbs, just to test en see the result. I love it optical, but functional.....i don't know yet. I rather want these 100watt bulbs, but I'm afraid it's getting to hot in the headlightunit.

First I'll drive these bulbs fot a while before I'll order these 100watt bulbs.

Hard to make a proper foto, but my IQ's right side has this HB4-bulb in it(see link/picture below)

post-75107-1260057683_thumb.jpg

Anyway I'm as happy as a small kid :yahoo:

Greetzzzzzzzzzz,

Brian

it's a solution depending on what you want:

white (or blue) bulbs :drool:

or better lighting. :driving:

look at the lumens of HIR2 & HB4 : HIR2 lighting is better than 55W or 80W HB4

but for legality :naughty: , it's a better solution than xenon kit.

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@Brian

I will not play the schoolmaster, but once again, your light-changings are not good and your car is not allowed to "run" on public streets. (55Watt is max.)

And by the way, your DayLightRunning units are not fitted EU-rules too!!!!

That means the car will be stopped by police in Germany, you have to pay, there is no "go" with the car and in case of an accident the insurence is covering nothing!! And you will be crying like a kid!

:ffs:

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@Brian

I will not play the schoolmaster, but once again, your light-changings are not good and your car is not allowed to "run" on public streets. (55Watt is max.)

And by the way, your DayLightRunning units are not fitted EU-rules too!!!!

:ffs:

What are the EU rules for fitting of these lights?

Not that it makes much difference to our Police, how many lorries do you see driving at night that look like a christmas tree, how many illegal private number plates are out there, how many people drive with a mobile to their ear or looking down texting, how many people do you see speeding, how many cars and buses blow out black smoke and why on earth are you allowed to have a fire making item stuck in your mouth whilst driving which if dropped whilst driving would make you panic and could create a fire.

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Please Dave,

rules a made to respect. If others are making bad things, why "you" are making dd´bad things too???

iQ-owners will not become the "rats" of the street.

One of the rules:

for the headbeams are max. 55 Watt

for the DLR is the position / the distance between the two units is fixed.

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My motto in life "Rules are to be broken" and I will not complain wenn catched.

Back to subject:

In The Netherlands we have kind a like an inspection wenn your car is 4 years or older. It's called a "APK" like "TUV"in Germany.

My IQ gets an OK !

My DLR's are not illegal mounted or intalled, and I even thought they're legal for the German "TUV" rules.

"LaLa" can you tel me why they shoul'dn't be legal? (distance between both of them?)

"Carpe diem" en greet,

Brian

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@Brian

Our TÜV is 3 years after new on road and then every 2 years (including ASU = cat. proofing, but with very old parameters!).

We both have the same problem with our DLR pair - the rule is 60 cm distance between the lights. (but is it lightarea or the middle of the 5 LEDs?).

Greeting

Peter

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Ok, thx LaLa. I didn't know the exact rule.

Cause I havn't got original foglights so i can mount them further appart wenn needed in future.

It's nice to know the rules, but live by them is something else.

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I've tested these 80Watt HB4 bulbs.

It was no succes!!!

I went to a friendly Honda dealer to see the light result (light image, or how do you call it) and compared one HIR2 with a one HB4.

The HIR2 has a much better "lightimage" and shines far more bright then the 80W HB4 bulb.

So I went home to put the HIR2-bulb back and the unit with the HB4-bulb smelled i bit burned. I'm glad the unit didn't melt in the inside cause I just drove for aproximately 45min. with this HB4 bulb(with cold weather on a highway).

Conclusion; HB4 gets far to hot!!!

Only option remaining is HID, but not for me. To much work has to be done and i don't want to blind anyone with my lights.

Just for info.

Enjoy life and greets,

Brian

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The HIR2 has a much better "lightimage" and shines far more bright then the 80W HB4 bulb.

Only option remaining is HID, but not for me. To much work has to be done and i don't want to blind anyone with my lights.

HIR2 better than 80W HB4 : exactly what I told you :D

HID too much work : not serious, it's really easy :rolleyes:

blind anyone with HID : no complaint from cars in opposite sense :)

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As the bulb is "hidden" behinf a lense there isn't more risk o blind others on the road... but I have already been told that (with the HIR2 on) when I go over a bumper it blinds the car in front...

So the difference is that we'll blind a little more with xenon than with HIR2...

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TUTO en Français :P

post-85393-1260977430_thumb.jpgpost-85393-1260977471_thumb.jpg

il y aura bien qqun pour en faire une bonne traduction :rolleyes:

Acheter un kit Xénon 9006

Commencer par le phare gauche (du côté droit c’est un peu plus difficile à cause du réservoir de lave glace).

Enlever le cache du porte fusible.

Enlever le cache noir d’environ 12cms de diamètre en le faisant tourner dans le sens des aiguilles d’une montre.

Enlever l’ampoule en la faisant tourner d’environ 30° dans le sens contraire des aiguilles. Je crois qu’il ne faut pas salir le verre de ces ampoules en les touchant avec les doigts.

Regarder les trois ergots de l’ampoule d’origine et les trois de l’ampoule 9006. Placer la 9006 comme sur les deux photos mises en ligne (dscn833&834). Le petit ergot de la 9006 va à la place de l’ergot placé en face de la prise d’alimentation 12V.Faire un essai de pose sur le phare. Ça passe juste. Pour verrouiller l’ampoule, tourner d’environ 10/15° dans le sens des aiguilles (c’est moins que les 30° de la HIR2). Si on enlève un peu de matière à l’ergot du « bas à droite » (sur photo dscn834), il peut y avoir possibilité de tourner de 30° pour un meilleur verrouillage.

Déposer l’ampoule et percer à un diamètre d’environ 24/25mm le cache noir en plastique pour faire passer les fils. Regarder avant l’endroit le meilleur pour percer ce cache en considérant qu’il faudra pouvoir reposer et verrouiller le cache de porte fusible après…Passer les fils dans le trou, ajuster la protection souple (contre les entrées d’eau) sur le trou, placer l’ampoule en place comme indiqué plus haut et la verrouiller, connecter l’arrivée de courant sur la prise du kit (le fil rouge du kit sur le rose de l’alimentation du phare cad le +), fermer le cache noir, relier l’extrémité des câbles au ballast. Bien vérifier la polarité : rouge=+ (car il n’y a pas de détrompeur sur le ballast).

Fixer le ballast à l’abri des projections d’eau (à la base du pare brise, il y a sous la plaque plastique qui fait toute la largeur du véhicule une traverse métallique déjà trouée. Il n’y a donc que le plastique à percer au bon endroit)

Tourner le commodo !!

Faire de même de l’autre côté en enlevant la fixation du tuyau de réservoir de lave glace.

Kit acheté sur eBay chez mzdz2009 pour moins de 40€.

Je trouve ce kit un peu long à démarrer. Il lui faut deux ou trois seconder pour être en température et donc pour obtenir l’éclairage maximum. Je ne sais pas si ça vient du ballast ou du fait que ce sont des 55W. J’avais acheté du xénon 35W il y a un an en H1 & H4 et je n’avais pas ce petit défaut. Il y avait aussi des détrompeurs pour éviter les erreurs de polarité.

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