Over Revving Causing Damage

[viper262]

Is Revving the engine to loudly causing damage to my Aygo

I own a 06 Aygo Black and i rev the engine quite loudly at junctions to keep from stalling but is this doing any damage to my engine at all i dont have my foot to the floor just a bit above biting point but the engine revs loudly and i just don't want to be doing any damage to my Aygo as i love it to pieces :D

[rodzRX7]

no it will be fine these wee engines loved to be reved and if you any power out of them you have to haha

jsut keep the oil level toped up and she will be fine...

[viper262]

That is good i love my Aygo to much :D i have not checked the oil in 2 months since i bought it when should i be checking the oil how often? and is the dipstick difficult to get to cause it looks like its at an angle rather than straight down cause i was told they put fresh oil in when it goes in for a service and that i dont need to do it please clear up these issues :)

[Phoenix999]

.... i rev the engine quite loudly at junctions to keep from stalling....

Sorry but that made me laugh.... why on earth do you think it would stall

If you feel it is at the point of stalling then get the car looked at as it should not do that at all

[viper262]

Because if i don't give the car enough Acceleration it will stall :| and i have stalled a lot due to lack of Acceleration from a junction, no the car does not need to be looked at i have driven the AYGO, 107, and the C1 and first gear has a high biting point higher than most cars i have driven. anyway could someone answer my previous question (i have not checked the oil in 2 months since i bought it when should i be checking the oil how often? and is the dipstick difficult to get to cause it looks like its at an angle rather than straight down cause i was told they put fresh oil in when it goes in for a service and that i dont need to do it please clear up these issues)

[timcrasher]

Firstly, with regard to the engine stalling/high rev situation, are you a driver with limited experience?

I don't mean to offend you by saying this, but the Aygo's don't need alot of revs to pull away. If you are holding the car on or near the clutch biting point with lots of revs you will damage the clutch and flywheel. You should be using the handbrake to hold the car, and then gently releasing it as you release the clutch and apply throttle in a progressive manner.

With regard to the oil. You should be checking it once a week. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean on a rag/tissue, pop it back in, and then remove it to check the reading. I didn't need to add any oil for nearly 3 years. The oil got changed at servicing, but it never used any. But, you still need to check it. And if you are reving the engine, like you say you are, you may use a little oil over time.

[Phoenix999]

Firstly, with regard to the engine stalling/high rev situation, are you a driver with limited experience?

I don't mean to offend you by saying this, but the Aygo's don't need alot of revs to pull away. If you are holding the car on or near the clutch biting point with lots of revs you will damage the clutch and flywheel. You should be using the handbrake to hold the car, and then gently releasing it as you release the clutch and apply throttle in a progressive manner.

With regard to the oil. You should be checking it once a week. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean on a rag/tissue, pop it back in, and then remove it to check the reading. I didn't need to add any oil for nearly 3 years. The oil got changed at servicing, but it never used any. But, you still need to check it. And if you are reving the engine, like you say you are, you may use a little oil over time.

I agree totally

[kav]

check oil once a month...

3 yrs, never burned oil, even with 4 poeple and 600km journey.

Never in scorching Greek summer.

Never.

Just change it at about 7.500 km, not 15.000 as scheduled by Toyota.

Tottaly agree with the other members.....

[zakelwe]

After the last Toyota service where they changed the oil I looked at the dipstick after about 700 miles and the "new" oil was as dark as Peter Andre's chest after a holiday in banging Ibiza *. Now after 2000 more miles with Mobil 1 0w/40 in it is still the same as a nice pint of lager. Next time I'll ask them not to put any in.

Regards

Andy

* Not that I look at Peter's chest much of course ....

[kav]

After the last Toyota service where they changed the oil I looked at the dipstick after about 700 miles and the "new" oil was as dark as Peter Andre's chest after a holiday in banging Ibiza *. Now after 2000 more miles with Mobil 1 0w/40 in it is still the same as a nice pint of lager. Next time I'll ask them not to put any in.

Regards

Andy

* Not that I look at Peter's chest much of course ....

always Mobil 1 ! excellent global oil...

as regarding about blackening oil, this is good to be done...meaning that the oil is carrying out it's duty, if it is still the same colour after 5-6k, NOT good oil quality, should always come out little black...

oil is polluted from petrol, air particles, moisture, engine metals when heated, etc....things we can NOT see or feel are constantly attacking the oil.

ona question zak.. Going in to change original discs and pads after 60.000 km with Apec + EBC Greenstuff. any review about the pads? Soft, noise, dust, ?????

[viper262]

Firstly, with regard to the engine stalling/high rev situation, are you a driver with limited experience?

I don't mean to offend you by saying this, but the Aygo's don't need alot of revs to pull away. If you are holding the car on or near the clutch biting point with lots of revs you will damage the clutch and flywheel. You should be using the handbrake to hold the car, and then gently releasing it as you release the clutch and apply throttle in a progressive manner.

With regard to the oil. You should be checking it once a week. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean on a rag/tissue, pop it back in, and then remove it to check the reading. I didn't need to add any oil for nearly 3 years. The oil got changed at servicing, but it never used any. But, you still need to check it. And if you are reving the engine, like you say you are, you may use a little oil over time.

I am a driver of limited experience no you don't offend me so do not worry i hold the car with the foot brake on and the clutch to the floor at junctions when i know the handbrake and neutral is not required then i bring the clutch up slowly apply some gas and make progress so im not gonna be stationary for long , at traffic lights i use neutral and handbrake then i put the car into gear progressively bring the clutch up and release the handbrake , and no i have the accelerator down 1/3 not even half way but the engine does growl abit thats all i was asking abit and i will start checking my fuel, i am not speed merchant and i do not go above 30 anyway

[timcrasher]

Tut Tut......bad habits already :P . If you get to a point where you are holding the car on the footbrake, with the clutch down, you should be using the handbrake. Otherwise you are not totally in control of the car.

I had been doing the same for years, like most of the drivers I see on my daily commute, but having recently had a series of Police driving assesments I now drive their way and it makes real sense.

Also if you sit with the foot brake holding the car, you transfer radiated heat into your front brakepads/ discs and fluid leading to excessive wear. This is more prominent in commuter style stop start driving, as there is a lack of cooling air ducted around the brakes.

It is a new lazy style of driving which more and more people are adopting as cars get easier to drive. Break the habit now before it is too late ;)

[viper262]

Tut Tut......bad habits already :P . If you get to a point where you are holding the car on the footbrake, with the clutch down, you should be using the handbrake. Otherwise you are not totally in control of the car.

I had been doing the same for years, like most of the drivers I see on my daily commute, but having recently had a series of Police driving assesments I now drive their way and it makes real sense.

Also if you sit with the foot brake holding the car, you transfer radiated heat into your front brakepads/ discs and fluid leading to excessive wear. This is more prominent in commuter style stop start driving, as there is a lack of cooling air ducted around the brakes.

It is a new lazy style of driving which more and more people are adopting as cars get easier to drive. Break the habit now before it is too late ;)

Hey timecrasher at the moment at normal junctions i use the footbrake and hold the clutch down to the floor, at traffic lights i neutral and handbrake and for traffic jams depending on the movement i use either clutch down to the floor and foot brake or handbrake and neutral. Should i be using neutral and handbrake at junctions or should i just use handbrake with clutch down to floor i want to be a better driver help me or should i be using handbrake and neutral all the time when i am stationary i am willing to try anything to make the life of my car and its components last longer :)

[zakelwe]

After the last Toyota service where they changed the oil I looked at the dipstick after about 700 miles and the "new" oil was as dark as Peter Andre's chest after a holiday in banging Ibiza *. Now after 2000 more miles with Mobil 1 0w/40 in it is still the same as a nice pint of lager. Next time I'll ask them not to put any in.

Regards

Andy

* Not that I look at Peter's chest much of course ....

always Mobil 1 ! excellent global oil...

as regarding about blackening oil, this is good to be done...meaning that the oil is carrying out it's duty, if it is still the same colour after 5-6k, NOT good oil quality, should always come out little black...

oil is polluted from petrol, air particles, moisture, engine metals when heated, etc....things we can NOT see or feel are constantly attacking the oil.

ona question zak.. Going in to change original discs and pads after 60.000 km with Apec + EBC Greenstuff. any review about the pads? Soft, noise, dust, ?????

Hi Kav,

Braking is a lot more consistent with the new pads, you get good retardation which is more linear and no funny sounds as I did with the old brakes. Not sure how much of that is due to the new pads or discs, think the pads are the main reason for the improvement though. As for dust it seems better, but I now have gun metal coloured wheels so it might just be hiding it :D I think it was a good upgrade, wouldn't go back to orginal, no way.

Regards

Andy

PS Know what you mean about the oil, but on a relatively new engine and only 700 miles use it shouldn't go that dark!

[zakelwe]

Tut Tut......bad habits already :P . If you get to a point where you are holding the car on the footbrake, with the clutch down, you should be using the handbrake. Otherwise you are not totally in control of the car.

I had been doing the same for years, like most of the drivers I see on my daily commute, but having recently had a series of Police driving assesments I now drive their way and it makes real sense.

Also if you sit with the foot brake holding the car, you transfer radiated heat into your front brakepads/ discs and fluid leading to excessive wear. This is more prominent in commuter style stop start driving, as there is a lack of cooling air ducted around the brakes.

It is a new lazy style of driving which more and more people are adopting as cars get easier to drive. Break the habit now before it is too late ;)

The problem with using the handbrake in London is that if everyone did it then you'd only get half the number of people through the traffic lights as it takes some people a long time to release them. I did nearly 100k miles around London and had no problem with brakes and I never used the handbrake.

I'm interested in why you say the person is not fully in control of the car? What's the thinking behind that? You should be able to react more quickly not using the handbrake.

Regards

Andy

[another_pleb]

The problem with using the handbrake in London is that if everyone did it then you'd only get half the number of people through the traffic lights as it takes some people a long time to release them.

Nonsense. When moving off from a standstill (especially when there might be a slope that would make the car roll forwards or backwards), it takes only a fraction of a second to lift the handbrake, after putting the car in gear, to hold the car stationary while you move your foot from the footbrake to the accellerator and then lift the clutch.

Holding the car on a hill with the clutch and throttle is another big no no.

If you are aware of the cars in front of you and the phases of the traffic lights etc etc. then you will have no problem keeping up. I've driven in many cities including London and have never had a problem.

[gordonh]

One thing I've found with 'newer' drivers is that they have learnt to pass the test and drive around at a reasonable speed all the time. The thing lacking from a lot of drivers is very low speed control of the car, it also seems overlooked from lessons.

What I suggest you do is go to a car park late at night when the shops are closed and just practice seeing how slowly you can pull away. Get used to very light clutch movements, you will probably find that you can pull away with very little throttle or even none on a flat service if you are light enough. Once you get more used to it you should stop revving the hell out of it unless you want to make a noise or race away.

[timcrasher]

Viper: If you come to a complete stop of any kind you should use the handbrake. You don't need to yank it on etc. If you are coming to a brief stop at a junction, lift the handbrake just enough to hold the car but hold the release button in. This allows you to hold the car while you transfer your foot from the foot brake to the throttle. Then feed out the clutch, add some revs while releasing the handbrake and drive away nice and smoothly. This way you have complete control of your cars movement with no chance of rolling.

zakelwe: Says it all above really. By not using the handbrake you risk the car rolling while transfering your feet on the pedals. I have driven without the handbrake for years, but my recent employment with the police has meant learning to drive the police way. I had alot to learn, even though I have been driving and racing cars to a very high standard for many years. Now I have been converted it really makes sense and becomes second nature. It makes me realise how many bad habits I had.

[Cyker]

If I'm 1st or 2nd at the lights I'll have the handbrake on, but clutch down waiting in first gear so I don't hold people up. You can get off the line much faster than if you're waiting with your feet on the brake and clutch ;)

Any further than that and I'll wait in neutral with handbrake, because there's enough time to go back to first and handbrake off. Much more comfortable too than waiting with the clutch in all the time!

All this should be a doddle to ANYONE who's passed a driving test; Pulling over then performing a hill start correctly requires you use the handbrake and have good clutch control in order to transfer the load from the brake to the clutch and move off without stalling or setting the clutch on fire

I was pretty crap at the clutch control when I started learning, but the tips about parking on an incline and then using clutch control to roll slowly up and down are good for practising.

My instructor stuck me on a hill, told me to peg the car at 2000rpm, then made me hold the car on the clutch for a few seconds, then roll up the hill a few metres, then roll back down to where we'd started again using nothing but the clutch. (And I didn't crash into anything! )

You quickly learn damned good low-speed clutch control after doing that a few times :D (Esp. if your instructor is an evil ***** who then sticks you on a 30 degree slope and tells you to do a turn in the road!! )

I do wonder how MMT/semi-auto drivers cope with this sort of thing tho'... With a real auto it's dead easy, but with a MMT, how would you go through start/stop traffic on some insanely steep hill? (Like, say, Bath. Or Wales. )

[viper262]

I was always taught only use the handbrake when you are going to be stationary for a while but ok timecrasher i will give it a try, two things tho if i dont have my foot on the footbrake my brake lights are not on and some drivers will think i am going and plow into the back of me because i have the handbrake engaged also won't i wear the hand brake cable out?

Also thanks for the tip gordohn i will give that a try i am guilty of using speed and more throttle than i should be to move forward in ques in case i stall, so i do need to get more comfortable and using the car at slower speeds and finding where my foot is happy on the clutch at slow speeds :)

[Birddy]

Learn To Drive Properly And You Should Have No Problems. aygos can pull away in 2nd. so you should have no Problem in first lol

[viper262]

Well i was wondering about that until this bad weather came and i have been starting in 2nd gear not only for control but for saving petrol what does other people think using 2nd at junctions to pull away rather than first since the Aygo can do it and also to save fuel also using it for moving foreward in traffic ques in interested in what other Aygo drivers have to say?

[cabcurtains]

Pulling off in 2nd will reduce the life of the clutch unless your on the flat and very steady with the revs/clutch release, our Verso pulls off in 3rd but its not doing it any favours ;)

1st is there for a reason :)

[Jamesbelfast]

Well i was wondering about that until this bad weather came and i have been starting in 2nd gear not only for control but for saving petrol what does other people think using 2nd at junctions to pull away rather than first since the Aygo can do it and also to save fuel also using it for moving foreward in traffic ques in interested in what other Aygo drivers have to say?

Most cars can be coaxed to move off in second gear but it's hard on clutches, drive gear, and engine mounts and is no more economical as no matter what gear is used it takes a certain amount of energy to get a car moving anyway. Think - why would the manufacturer spend a shed load of money calculating gear ratios if they weren't needed.LOL!!

[viper262]

I guess so o well lol just a suggestion i guess i will try to find MPG saving tips elsewhere Cheers guys