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Useless Rav4


AndyLewis
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An '03 plated Toyota RAV-4 turbo diesel, with 70K on the clock, around town lady driver (the wife).

Breaks down on the motorway due to knackerd Turbo : a 'known' problem supposedly.

Cost of just the turbo from Toyota? £1,450 :censor: , fitted, £1,950. Toyota don't even make the turbo I hasten to add.

£1,450....FOR A TURBO, which let's face it, is just a glorified hair dryer. Sorry, that is taking the P-I-double-S.

MY GOD IN HEAVEN. AT LEAST ***** TURPIN WORE A MASK. :arrgg-matey:

No WAY in HELL was I going to pay that so I forked out for a reconditioned one. £1,000 fitted !!!!! :censor: :censor: :eek:

2 weeks later, after another motorway trip it breaks down again. Drives like a dog (no power beyond 3K revs). Problem due to injectors??? (which was explained to me as the equivalent of a carburettor on a petrol engine???). As a result that needed sorting out plus new catalytic converter need. Bill: £550.

Now just 2 weeks later, it's driving like an absolute SLUG again. Currently in garage in bits while they 'get to the bottom of it'.

I am :censor:-ed off beyond measure by this rubbish car. NEVER again. Thanks Toyota for costing me £2,000 for YOUR design faults. In my job I get it right.

Apologies for rant...

Andy

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An '03 plated Toyota RAV-4 turbo diesel, with 70K on the clock, around town lady driver (the wife).

Breaks down on the motorway due to knackerd Turbo : a 'known' problem supposedly.

Cost of just the turbo from Toyota? £1,450 :censor: , fitted, £1,950. Toyota don't even make the turbo I hasten to add.

£1,450....FOR A TURBO, which let's face it, is just a glorified hair dryer. Sorry, that is taking the P-I-double-S.

MY GOD IN HEAVEN. AT LEAST ***** TURPIN WORE A MASK. :arrgg-matey:

No WAY in HELL was I going to pay that so I forked out for a reconditioned one. £1,000 fitted !!!!! :censor: :censor: :eek:

2 weeks later, after another motorway trip it breaks down again. Drives like a dog (no power beyond 3K revs). Problem due to injectors??? (which was explained to me as the equivalent of a carburettor on a petrol engine???). As a result that needed sorting out plus new catalytic converter need. Bill: £550.

Now just 2 weeks later, it's driving like an absolute SLUG again. Currently in garage in bits while they 'get to the bottom of it'.

I am :censor:-ed off beyond measure by this rubbish car. NEVER again. Thanks Toyota for costing me £2,000 for YOUR design faults. In my job I get it right.

Apologies for rant...

Andy

Hi Andy, Has anyone mentioned Suction Control Valves? I had the same problems with my d4d, read all the nightmare stories on the Forum regarding expensive turbos, injectors, catalytic converters etc., In the end all I did was take out the SCVs. clean them and put them back, the car went like new and still is doing, touch wood. My brother got a lift with a taxi driver who had done 230,000 miles in his Avensis d4d and he told my brother to ignore anyone who tells you it is the turbo or the injectors, the only thing that goes wrong with these engines is the Suction Control Valves. You can get a new pair via the forum if you want to replace them, but why not try what I did, take them out, give them a diesel bath and a blow dry and put them back in again.

Good luck, Peter.

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Mmmm........

......I rather think I would have looked at the SCVs as well.

Who diagnosed it? Were there any fault codes?

BTW - welcome to the club.

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good evening young andy from the wilds of England.

turbos are fairly common in the western world and probably more common in Engerland. As an example, I bought a Stage 3 race turbo for my RAV for less than £600 - and the thing is key to my RAV having the ability to shove out almost 500bhp.

Yours will be expected to shove much less.

If I was you, and I'm not, I would check local Jap engine tuners and specialists to ask for prices and another diagnosis.

good luck

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an by the way, this is St Andrews night, Andy....

get a specialist tuner to look at the car....

the T dealers have to handle multiple cars and problems and cannot be a specialist at anything so get looking for a local expert who has a good reputation

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An '03 plated Toyota RAV-4 turbo diesel, with 70K on the clock, around town lady driver (the wife).

Breaks down on the motorway due to knackerd Turbo : a 'known' problem supposedly.

Cost of just the turbo from Toyota? £1,450 :censor: , fitted, £1,950. Toyota don't even make the turbo I hasten to add.

£1,450....FOR A TURBO, which let's face it, is just a glorified hair dryer. Sorry, that is taking the P-I-double-S.

MY GOD IN HEAVEN. AT LEAST ***** TURPIN WORE A MASK. :arrgg-matey:

No WAY in HELL was I going to pay that so I forked out for a reconditioned one. £1,000 fitted !!!!! :censor: :censor: :eek:

2 weeks later, after another motorway trip it breaks down again. Drives like a dog (no power beyond 3K revs). Problem due to injectors??? (which was explained to me as the equivalent of a carburettor on a petrol engine???). As a result that needed sorting out plus new catalytic converter need. Bill: £550.

Now just 2 weeks later, it's driving like an absolute SLUG again. Currently in garage in bits while they 'get to the bottom of it'.

I am :censor:-ed off beyond measure by this rubbish car. NEVER again. Thanks Toyota for costing me £2,000 for YOUR design faults. In my job I get it right.

Apologies for rant...

Andy

Hi Andy

I have just read your sad story with RAV -- it looks like the initial problem was with injectors resulting problem with turbocharger.

Look -- all you have now is connected with injectors. The first you had to do:

- test all of four;

- clean an EGR valve -- believe me it is also dirty;

- clean the turbocharged from carbon deposits.

Re SCVs -- they are two monted on the HP pump and normally their performance connected with opening/closing of diesel suction line before the pump. As others state -- to clean SCVs will lead to rectify the problem -- yes it sometimes correct when no diesel suction is in question. But you have another problem only with injectors at first as the reason of all your head aches.

Yes -- now you have turbo issue -- in case you still did not give a go to Toyota , then it is better to find repair kit for turbo and try to have it repaired. But in case of an opposite then no way back -- but I strictly recomend you to follow my advise with both injectors and EGR valve.

Good Luck/Igor

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Hey, hey, hey, thanks for the kind words guys.

The garage it's with I trust to some extent. I have used them for years...... but who knows!

OK, Re: the turbo. In situ, they showed me it with the exhaust cover (??) off. The fan bearing (??), it was obvious to all who put their mitts on it, had A LOT of play in it. It was certainly rattling around in its bearings. I know NOTHING about car engines, esp diesels. But a mate who was with me at the time agreed that the turbo was shot.

The cat convertor: They told me it was compeltely black and cracked in half and had to be replaced???? If it was me I'd have left it alone - if it was passing the MOT test (part of which is emmissions) then to me it wasn't bust so leave it alone. Have I got that right? Who knows...

The car for years to me had always driven like a gutless slug - but try telling that to 'she who must be obeyed' who's pride & joy it is. I could never get it to rev beyond 3.5K and driving around town at 30mph one was constantly changing between 3rd & 4th gear. I think the engine red-lines at 5K, but it would NEVER get there.

The garage explained that a faulty turbo could cause other more major problems, but when FIRST fixing it told us we were lucky. When fitting a new Turbo they did not fit a high pressure oil hose correct or it was corroded, but when they first started turning the engine (and I quote) "a lot of oil hit the ceiling of the garage" - they must've had the glo-plugs out when they did this?? So that was something else that needed sorting out & fixing at the time.

I got a reconditioned turbo for £550 (£100 off by sending them the knackered turbo back). £450 sounded A LOT better than £1,450, espcially as I was told that this was a "known problem" and could happen again. Sorry I don't pay out THOUSANDS of pounds for OTHER peoples crap designs.

Then something went wrong again. It just felt like the engine is being suffocated or starved - there's no 'oomph'. It wouldn't start properly and just drove like an even bigger slug than before. So it went back in to the garage: The report back was that the cat needed replacing and the equivalent of a turbo on a petrol engine needed replacing because it was blocked (what do you guys think that is?), so they get a new one from Toyota - that made sense to me...

Then I did a 350 mile round trip in it over the course of 2 days, most of which was on motorways and it drove fine. In fact the difference between repaired Rav and old Rav was night and day I can tell you! It drove just like a petrol engined car. If memory serves I could get it to rev to 4.5K. Acceleration was 10x better!

Then it went back to being a slug, no acceleration (like towing 5 tonnes kind of thing), sod to start and NOW the engine light has come on!!!!!! ARRRRRRRRRRGH. Now either something is rattling around in that engine causing all sorts of problems, or what I and the wife think: that the garage may have possibly introduced a fault by not putting it back together properly.

Now chaps, does all this sound like an SCV related problem???

So to the present then:

I have just phone the garage and they are still scratching their heads as "everything seems spot on". It's still got a starting problem.

They've replaced the cam belt & checked the pump timing.

I have now mentioned 'Suction Control Valves' and cleaning thereof - I got the impression he didn't know what they were. "S-C-V, Sierra, Charlie, Victor" says I.

The fault code they're getting is P1228. I'll trip through the forum now to see what that is!

Cheers for now then peeps,

Andy

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Apologies Igor, just seen your post too (we were posting at the same time).

So, what you're saying is (so I get this right).

Problem all along has been injectors and this has caused the turbo to fail.

So my advice to garage now should be:

1) Recheck those injectors - make sure ALL 4 are clean.

2) Clean the EGR valve. (It's definately dirty).

3) Clean the turbo of carbon deposits.

You're saying that problem is NOT related to SCV's, correct? Or maybe so?

Turbo has been replaced by a reconditioned one.

Cheers,

Andy

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Apologies Igor, just seen your post too (we were posting at the same time).

So, what you're saying is (so I get this right).

Problem all along has been injectors and this has caused the turbo to fail.

So my advice to garage now should be:

1) Recheck those injectors - make sure ALL 4 are clean.

2) Clean the EGR valve. (It's definately dirty).

3) Clean the turbo of carbon deposits.

You're saying that problem is NOT related to SCV's, correct? Or maybe so?

Turbo has been replaced by a reconditioned one.

Cheers,

Andy

Andy

I repeat again -- two SCVs are responsible only to admit diesel to be sucted into the pump ONLY and they are either click or not ( i mean workability of solenoids) + can be easily tested by multitester on their coils resistance (that must be in limits ---> please ask for these data from Anchorman). As to injectors -- they must to give an equal portion of SPRAYED diesel bot not just pour it into the cylinders that you had before. The diesel jet sound must fast and sharp giving no any leaks and drops on the nozzle tip -- it is essential. Cheers/Igor

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Andy

I repeat again -- two SCVs are responsible only to admit diesel to be sucted into the pump ONLY and they are either click or not ( i mean workability of solenoids) + can be easily tested by multitester on their coils resistance (that must be in limits ---> please ask for these data from Anchorman). As to injectors -- they must to give an equal portion of SPRAYED diesel bot not just pour it into the cylinders that you had before. The diesel jet sound must fast and sharp giving no any leaks and drops on the nozzle tip -- it is essential. Cheers/Igor

Gotcha:

Injectors must SPRAY diesel in. If diesel remains in its liquid form it will suffocate the burning of any fuel:

OK - garage guy said this makes sense and he has gone off to thoughly check the injectors and make sure the EGR valve is clean too.

Re: the SCV's ... they either work YES or don't work, NO and because of this, you doubt they relate to the problem... regardless they are easily tests.

Thanks once again,

Andy

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Andy

I repeat again -- two SCVs are responsible only to admit diesel to be sucted into the pump ONLY and they are either click or not ( i mean workability of solenoids) + can be easily tested by multitester on their coils resistance (that must be in limits ---> please ask for these data from Anchorman). As to injectors -- they must to give an equal portion of SPRAYED diesel bot not just pour it into the cylinders that you had before. The diesel jet sound must fast and sharp giving no any leaks and drops on the nozzle tip -- it is essential. Cheers/Igor

Gotcha:

Injectors must SPRAY diesel in. If diesel remains in its liquid form it will suffocate the burning of any fuel:

OK - garage guy said this makes sense and he has gone off to thoughly check the injectors and make sure the EGR valve is clean too.

Re: the SCV's ... they either work YES or don't work, NO and because of this, you doubt they relate to the problem... regardless they are easily tests.

Thanks once again,

Andy

Andy

A bit of theory of the diesel engine: look - the cycle portoin of the diesel has been calculated depending on both load and scavanging air pressure. WHat did you have ? ---- this air quantity was not sufficient due to turbo fault but you constantly pressed the gas pedal :) and in case one/two ... injectors were about to die the ballance between diesel and air was violated resulting more diesel during workiing cycle -- it is understood more diesel more carbon subjject to turbo fault. No any SCVs are in questio as you see. Cheers/Igor

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Andy

A bit of theory of the diesel engine: look - the cycle portoin of the diesel has been calculated depending on both load and scavanging air pressure. WHat did you have ? ---- this air quantity was not sufficient due to turbo fault but you constantly pressed the gas pedal :) and in case one/two ... injectors were about to die the ballance between diesel and air was violated resulting more diesel during workiing cycle -- it is understood more diesel more carbon subjject to turbo fault. No any SCVs are in questio as you see. Cheers/Igor

Cool Igor,

you are painting a good picture for me, thanks for taking the time to explain. I now know a bit more about diesels etc.

I think I understand what a turbo does - it basically blows more air into the cylinder creating a better burn of the fuel. This turbo fan is driven by the exhaust gasses and as a result runs VERY hot. It also spins very fast and good bearings in this environment is essential. It therefore makes sense that any carbon deposits can create an unbalance in the turbo system and screw the bearings (over time). I guess these turbo repair chaps just clean the old ones up & replace the bearings. (I say 'just' but I'm not suggesting this is easy!).

So, the SCV's grab a 'bit' of diesel (based on the electronic computer / whatever that drives controls its solenoid). This 'bit' of diesel is then pumped into the injector whose job it is to SPRAY this bit of diesel into the cylinder (and to do so under extreme pressure, no?).

In the case of my fault, to get the power requested the computer has sensed that more fuel is needed (because the injector is not spraying properly) and requests too much diesel. Over time, burning of excessive, badly mixed (?) diesel has effected the rest of the engine, espcially my poor turbo.

Q) What causes the injectors to fail in this manner? Why do they stop spraying efficiently?

Cheers,

Andy

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I think I understand what a turbo does - it basically blows more air into the cylinder creating a better burn of the fuel. This turbo fan is driven by the exhaust gasses and as a result runs VERY hot. It also spins very fast and good bearings in this environment is essential. It therefore makes sense that any carbon deposits can create an unbalance in the turbo system and screw the bearings (over time). I guess these turbo repair chaps just clean the old ones up & replace the bearings. (I say 'just' but I'm not suggesting this is easy!). ----->

-----> YES LEAVE THIS JOB TO THE PROFESSIONALS DEALING WITH TURBOS REPAIR.

So, the SCV's grab a 'bit' of diesel (based on the electronic computer / whatever that drives controls its solenoid). -----> NO -- HP PUMP SUCTS THE DIESEL THANKS TO PLUNGERS MOVEMENT, BUT BOTH SCVs STAY OPENED (WHEN GOT AN EL SIGNALL) ENABLING DIESEL TO BE SUCTED INTO THE PUMP.

This 'bit' of diesel is then pumped into the injector whose job it is to SPRAY this bit of diesel into the cylinder (and to do so under extreme pressure, no?).--->

---> THE DIESEL SUCTED IS DISCHARGED INTO THE COMMON RAIL PIPE AND THE PRESSURE CRIATED BY THE PUMP REMAINS THE SAME HAVING MAINTANED BY A PRESSURE RETAINING VALVE --THIS PRESSURE MUST BE IN LIMITS STUPULATED IN YOUR MANUAL. ALL FOUR FUEL VALVES (INJECTORS) ARE GOVERNED BY OWN SOLENOID CUPS BASING ON THE INJECTION TIMING ORDER BEFORE TBC. ONCE EL SYGNAL REACHCES ONE OF THE INJECTOR -- THIS LEADS TO SOLENOID STEM CIFTING UP RELEASING BACK SPRING INSIDE THE INJECTOTR BODY. ONCE IT IS HAPPENED -- THE DIESEL UNDER THE PRESSURE FROM THE RAIL IS INJECTED INTO THE CYLINDER PRIOR TO SOME ANGLE DEGREES PRIOR TO TBC.

In the case of my fault, to get the power requested the computer has sensed that more fuel is needed (because the injector is not spraying properly) and requests too much diesel. Over time, burning of excessive, badly mixed (?) diesel has effected the rest of the engine, espcially my poor turbo.---->

---> AN ATMOSPHERIC ENGINES COMPRESSION VALUE IS 15-16 KG/CM2, BUT IN CASE THE TURBO GIVES , LET SAY 0.5 OR EVEN MORE PRESSURE -- THIS LEADS TO THE PRESSURE INCREASING UP TO 25-30 KG/CM2 - THIS ONLY COMPRESSION PRESSURE AND ONCE THE DIESEL VAPOURS ARE EXPLOUDED -- THIS EXTREME PRESSURE SOME TIMES REACHES 45-50 KG/CM2 -- GIVING MORE PRESSURE FORCE ON EACH PISTON THAN IN PETROL ENGINE. IT IS UNDERSTOOD THAT A PEAK OF TORQUE IS LAID ON 2-3K RPM OF CRANKSHAFT AND IT IS CONNECTED WITH ACCELERATING MOMENT OF THE CAR + MORE TURBO PRESSURE -- AFTER THAT THE CAR HAS INERTIA CONSUMING LESS FUEL ETC.

Q) What causes the injectors to fail in this manner? Why do they stop spraying efficiently?----> THE INJECTION SPRAY QUALITY IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE THIS IS MIXED WITH AN SCAVANGE AIR AND IF THIS JET IS POOR (WITHOUT FUEL FOG) THEN IT IS MIXED BADLY GIVING MORE CARBON AFTER BURNING PROCESS + THE RESULT YOU HAVE HAD .

Cheers/Igor

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I think I understand what a turbo does - it basically blows more air into the cylinder creating a better burn of the fuel. This turbo fan is driven by the exhaust gasses and as a result runs VERY hot. It also spins very fast and good bearings in this environment is essential. It therefore makes sense that any carbon deposits can create an unbalance in the turbo system and screw the bearings (over time). I guess these turbo repair chaps just clean the old ones up & replace the bearings. (I say 'just' but I'm not suggesting this is easy!). ----->

-----> YES LEAVE THIS JOB TO THE PROFESSIONALS DEALING WITH TURBOS REPAIR.

So, the SCV's grab a 'bit' of diesel (based on the electronic computer / whatever that drives controls its solenoid). -----> NO -- HP PUMP SUCTS THE DIESEL THANKS TO PLUNGERS MOVEMENT, BUT BOTH SCVs STAY OPENED (WHEN GOT AN EL SIGNALL) ENABLING DIESEL TO BE SUCTED INTO THE PUMP.

This 'bit' of diesel is then pumped into the injector whose job it is to SPRAY this bit of diesel into the cylinder (and to do so under extreme pressure, no?).--->

---> THE DIESEL SUCTED IS DISCHARGED INTO THE COMMON RAIL PIPE AND THE PRESSURE CRIATED BY THE PUMP REMAINS THE SAME HAVING MAINTANED BY A PRESSURE RETAINING VALVE --THIS PRESSURE MUST BE IN LIMITS STUPULATED IN YOUR MANUAL. ALL FOUR FUEL VALVES (INJECTORS) ARE GOVERNED BY OWN SOLENOID CUPS BASING ON THE INJECTION TIMING ORDER BEFORE TBC. ONCE EL SYGNAL REACHCES ONE OF THE INJECTOR -- THIS LEADS TO SOLENOID STEM CIFTING UP RELEASING BACK SPRING INSIDE THE INJECTOTR BODY. ONCE IT IS HAPPENED -- THE DIESEL UNDER THE PRESSURE FROM THE RAIL IS INJECTED INTO THE CYLINDER PRIOR TO SOME ANGLE DEGREES PRIOR TO TBC.

In the case of my fault, to get the power requested the computer has sensed that more fuel is needed (because the injector is not spraying properly) and requests too much diesel. Over time, burning of excessive, badly mixed (?) diesel has effected the rest of the engine, espcially my poor turbo.---->

---> AN ATMOSPHERIC ENGINES COMPRESSION VALUE IS 15-16 KG/CM2, BUT IN CASE THE TURBO GIVES , LET SAY 0.5 OR EVEN MORE PRESSURE -- THIS LEADS TO THE PRESSURE INCREASING UP TO 25-30 KG/CM2 - THIS ONLY COMPRESSION PRESSURE AND ONCE THE DIESEL VAPOURS ARE EXPLOUDED -- THIS EXTREME PRESSURE SOME TIMES REACHES 45-50 KG/CM2 -- GIVING MORE PRESSURE FORCE ON EACH PISTON THAN IN PETROL ENGINE. IT IS UNDERSTOOD THAT A PEAK OF TORQUE IS LAID ON 2-3K RPM OF CRANKSHAFT AND IT IS CONNECTED WITH ACCELERATING MOMENT OF THE CAR + MORE TURBO PRESSURE -- AFTER THAT THE CAR HAS INERTIA CONSUMING LESS FUEL ETC.

Q) What causes the injectors to fail in this manner? Why do they stop spraying efficiently?----> THE INJECTION SPRAY QUALITY IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE THIS IS MIXED WITH AN SCAVANGE AIR AND IF THIS JET IS POOR (WITHOUT FUEL FOG) THEN IT IS MIXED BADLY GIVING MORE CARBON AFTER BURNING PROCESS + THE RESULT YOU HAVE HAD .

Cheers/Igor

as the additional:

Why do they stop spraying efficiently? --->

the injector nozzle tip suffers from both high temp and sulphur in the diesel. It is understood each tip has own lifetime and must be changed on new one in the term stipulated in repair manual ----> this term has been statistically disclosed. Both injector needle valve and injector body are contacted each other in one narrow circle line -- and after a while this line square becomes more resulting releasing of contact pressure and this leads to diesel leaks thru both parts (needle and body) - and this moment disclosure is important to prevent further issues with turbocharger; cat; EGR.

CHeers/Igor

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks Igor, ace explanations there.

Just wondering about the SCV's though as at least four people have replaced them which has cured the fault described.

(I have only counted one for whom this didn't work - leaky vacuum pipes).

If one or both SCVs became mechanically worn / damaged / jammed and as a result was mechanically (not electrically) prevented from opening as far as it should when in the open position would this also not choke off some off the intended fuel supply causing a loss of power?

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Thanks Igor, ace explanations there.

Just wondering about the SCV's though as at least four people have replaced them which has cured the fault described.

(I have only counted one for whom this didn't work - leaky vacuum pipes).

If one or both SCVs became mechanically worn / damaged / jammed and as a result was mechanically (not electrically) prevented from opening as far as it should when in the open position would this also not choke off some off the intended fuel supply causing a loss of power?

Yes absolutely. There is a test of the circuits but in most cases the fault is with the physical side of the SCvs and they fail to function properly. Its not ideal but often the only way of taking them out of the equation is to change them. Kingo will sell you some at a discounted rate.

Good luck.

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At last a solution....

Took the wife's car over to Eastleigh to a Diesel specialist. They quickly came to the conclusion that the SCV's needed replacing...

So, at £100 each (two of them to replace) plus fitting and VAT later (i.e. £315) the SCV's were replaced with new ones.

Car has been driving like a dream for the last 3 weeks since this hopefully FINAL repair.

Thanks everyone for their help!

Cheers,

Andy

PS. NAUGHTY Toyota: >£2,000 to repair a 7 year old diesel Rav4. NOT GOOD. NOT HAPPY.

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Just to add my two-penn'th to the conversation for those who may be interested (Igor has got it pretty much spot-on) and bore those of you who aren't... The SCV valves actually LIMIT the fuel going through the high pressure fuel pump and into the common rail of the fuel injection system (and then into each injector). Since a diesel engine always has maximum air available (there is no throttle in a diesel engine. Well, there are these days but that's another conversation), then the engine load is controlled by the amount of fuel going into the engine - more fuel = more power/torque produced. Since the fuel pump is turning in direct proportion to engine speed (as it's driven by an engine driven belt) there may be times that there is too much fuel available (at high revs in a low gear for example) so the SCV valves control the fuel going into the fuel pump. Hence Suction Control Valves they control the inlet to the fuel pump - the suction side. They are solenoid valves but I'm guessing they are PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) or variable force solenoids so they are not just ON or OFF but can be anywhere between 0 and 100% open. What the failure mechanism is I don't know other than they can check out ok electrically but still not function correctly. Getting jammed up so they do not open fully may not be too far wide of the mark.

The problem with the diagnosing the SCV valves problems seems to lie within some of garages inability to be able to properly diagnose faults (like most things there is a huge range - some garages are brilliant and some should not be in business...). The fault codes (DTC's) that usually get reported when something goes wrong only point you in the right direction - they do not 100% mean that component is at fault. With the SCV valves they fail and the result is insufficient fuel flow in response to a demand from pressing the accelerator pedal. This could result in various faults being reported for anything from low turbo boost pressure (hence new turbo being incorrectly fitted) to fuel pump faults (hence new fuel pumps being incorrectly fitted) to the actual DTC for the SCV valves themselves (P0627)

On a few other points:

Turbos mainly fail due to the bearings not being lubricated with oil properly. This is usually due to the turbo not being left to cool down when hot. The oil left in the turbo carbonises and either blocks the oilways or the carbon can wear the bearings. Always let turbos cool for a couple of minutes after hard running by driving gently for a few minutes before shutting the engine down. Also always use good quality oil or change cheaper oils often - especially if the car is used for lots of stop-start and short journies (ie less than 20miles in one go).

Fuel injectors usually fail (well, the spray pattern in the combustion cylinder becomes poor so the fuel burns poorly) due to using poor quality fuels. More expensive branded fuels contain additives which help to keep the engine internals clean (including the intake valves, fuel pump and the injectors).

Hope that reading this has helped burn off a bit of the Christmas turkey!!

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Many, many thanks for that great response...

To let you all know who those chaps in Eastleigh were who finally sorted my car they were: M&B Fuel Injection, tel: 02380 619655

The 'code' that was reported P1228 according to the chap at M&B Fuel was 'a bit of a strange one' - 'we' were not entirely sure what it meant (and was NOT apparently related to the fault) as the description from Toyota was vague to say the least.

Thanks again everyone!

Andy

PS, sod off 2009 you've cost me an arm & a leg, welcome in 2010!

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Glad to read a story with a happy ending, hopefully others will read this and if experiencing issues with their Diesel they will head to a Diesel specialist. IMO car dealers typically don’t have the expertise needed to diagnose and repair problems on Diesel engines without replacing all the expensive obvious stuff. Changing air filters and Wiper Blades at £100 per hour is much easier and keeps the work flowing through.

I would happily swap the shiny showroom for a grubby workshop to get the problem fixed :)

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Prob too late, but I know a lot of diesel owners that just remove thier cats, EGRs etc and usually get their engines chipped at the same time. I'm in no way an expert on these engines that burn Satan's fuel, but I believe that diesels don't need a cat for emissions reasons.

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Hmm, 'happy' is not the word I would associate with having to resolve this issue at a cost of £2,000!

Anyway... GUESS WHAT NOW???

SOMETHING ELSE HAS GONE WRONG!

Yes, that's right boys and girls, there a rattling coming from the bell housing, suspected DMF fault another 'known issue' with RAV 4's (see the sticky at the top of this forum section).

Quote from garage, £700 for a new clutch etc 'one hell of a job to fit' hence fitted, £1,645 (inc the VAT which has just gone up). :ffs:

So, thanks Toyota for your known problems, which are going to cost me a grand total of £4,460.

My advice, if you currently own a Rav 4....? SELL THE DAMN THING.

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