2002 Yaris Sr 1.3 - Problems?

[jm26]

Hi,

Just bought a 2002 Yaris SR 1.3 at the weekend.

In my last car (2006 1l Peugeot 107) I would drive in first up to about 15mph and also when crawling in traffic; but the Yaris seems to be working too hard after about 8mph and I have to use 2nd for moving in slow traffic. It sounds very high pitched and appears to be working much harder (almost like an electric engine) in 1st and 2nd. Once in third it sounds fine. Does this sound normal for a Yaris?

Also when I am slowing down and braking there is a sqealing / squeekling noise. Will this most likely be brake pads that need replacing? Also my

Thanks for any help.

[Raeman]

Hi and welcome to the Yaris section! ;)

Maybe you just have to get used to the car, after owning your other car and knowing it's characteristics ect..

I think mine is fine, probably because i'm used to it after 2yrs+ of owning it, but in slow traffic i usually use 2nd anyway as my car does'nt seem to be happy in first like you say.

The squeeling noise is almost certainly a brake issue, either you need new front pads or new rear shoes in the drums.

Both are simple to check and not that expensive to replace. :)

[jm26]

Hi and welcome to the Yaris section! ;)

Maybe you just have to get used to the car, after owning your other car and knowing it's characteristics ect..

I think mine is fine, probably because i'm used to it after 2yrs+ of owning it, but in slow traffic i usually use 2nd anyway as my car does'nt seem to be happy in first like you say.

The squeeling noise is almost certainly a brake issue, either you need new front pads or new rear shoes in the drums.

Both are simple to check and not that expensive to replace. :)

Thanks for the quick reponse!

I'll check it all this weekend then and order some parts if anything looks worn. Though according to the service history front brake pads were replaced 5k ago so it shouldn't be them??

Thanks

[Raeman]

It's possible that it could be the rear shoes, remove the back wheels and pull the drum covers off to check the shoes and to make sure there's not a leaky cylinder. This will give you the opportunity to clean the brake dust out aswell.

The front brakes can be checked easy enough aswell, maybe there's some grit or dirt lodged in the pads

Check the discs aswell for any pitting.

[alfiejts]

It might also be that when they replaced the front pads recently, they didn't replace the anti-squeal shims that sit between the pads and the calipers on most cars.

I think you can buy anti-squeel grease to put on the back of the front disk brake pads that might help, if it is the front brakes that are making the noise - but you need to be careful not to get it on the friction material or the disk itself as that will affect the braking performance.

[jm26]

Thanks to those who have responded so far. The car also has serious problems with braking. On 2 occasions the cars brake pedal has jammed in the upright position whilst going downhill and I have been unable to stop the car at the junction. Luckily the roads have been clear on both occasions.

I have a one month warranty from the dealer which in the letter says it covers major mechanical problems only (engine, gearbox) but not general wear items. I assume this is seen as a major mechanical problem as it could have killed me!!??

The sound as mentioned above still persists and there is a constant pull to the right.

I have emailed the trader and explained the problems and will call him tommorow. I live about 20 miles away and do not want to drive this car to him as it's so dangerous. What are my options? Is it seen as my cost to get the car to his garage by paying someone to tow it or do I get the car fixed at a very nearby garage and forward the bill onto him?

Any help will be much appreciated.

[Red Yaris 54]

Thanks to those who have responded so far. The car also has serious problems with braking. On 2 occasions the cars brake pedal has jammed in the upright position whilst going downhill and I have been unable to stop the car at the junction. Luckily the roads have been clear on both occasions.

I have a one month warranty from the dealer which in the letter says it covers major mechanical problems only (engine, gearbox) but not general wear items. I assume this is seen as a major mechanical problem as it could have killed me!!??

The sound as mentioned above still persists and there is a constant pull to the right.

I have emailed the trader and explained the problems and will call him tommorow. I live about 20 miles away and do not want to drive this car to him as it's so dangerous. What are my options? Is it seen as my cost to get the car to his garage by paying someone to tow it or do I get the car fixed at a very nearby garage and forward the bill onto him?

Any help will be much appreciated.

See my advice to you on the OTHER TOPIC that you started........(Now Closed http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...)............ It was not necesary to start another topic as you have received quite a few replies to your questions on here

[Raeman]

Is there any chance you could jack the car up, remove the front wheels and check the brakes yourself?

You say the car is pulling to the right, this sounds like a sticky brake calliper, probably caused by years of muck/dirt around the pistons and it never being cleaned out.

Also have you checked the brake fluid level? Have a look around the back of the rear drums for any fluid leaks aswell.

As for dealing with the garage you got the car, i would phone them and tell them to come and collect the car themselves and sort it.

If they won't, then phone the citizens advice bureau and ask where you stand on this. By law, any car dealer has to sell a vehicle in a good, roadworthy condition and having brakes that don't work is just madness and could have fatal concequences on you and other road users/pedestrians ect.

Good luck and keep us posted! ;)

[jm26]

Cheers for the help so far guys.

I emailed the dealer explaining the squeeky front wheels, jammed brake pedal and pulling to right. All phones were turned off yesterday. He called back very aggressivley today, but after I threatened him with court action he backed down and said he would pick the car up tommorow.

He said the tracking was fine before it left the garage. If the tracking was out would it be on the MOT advisory sheet issued a few days before i bought it? (Note: it's probably his mates garage down the road, so the MOT was probably not done thoroughly anyway).

The brake pedal has jammed on me on 4 occasions generally when going downhill ad trying to stop at the bottom; but they seem fine the rest of the time. It will be hard to know if the mechanic sorts the problem until I go down a few hills I suppose. I have heard this problem can be related to the master cyliner,pedal piston rusted, vacuum brake booster and it's pipes. Does this sound right? If he only replaces brake pads and tries to fob me off with that i know it's not been diagnosed correctly?

Any mechanics here know what causes this problem?

Will keep you updated. Cheers.

[alfiejts]

If the brake pedal really won't press down at all when you have the issue, then its either the master cylinder jamming or vacuum booster.

Try this....

When you turn the engine off, it leaves some residual pressure in the vacuum brake booster (brake servo).

You can feel this, by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal with the engine turned off.

The first time you will hear a hiss and it will go down as far as usual, then as you use up all the vacuum, the pedal gets harder and harder. Eventually, you won't be able to press it down very far at all.

Then if you start up the engine to restore the vacuum, the pedal goes down properly again...

Do this so that you're familiar with what it feels like to have full boost and then no boost - and park the car, as usual, turn the engine off and leave it overnight.

Then get in the car in the morning and see if you still have any resudual brake vacuum. It should keep its pressure and still "hiss" and depress the brake properly several hours later.

If its immediatley got no residual vacuum and the pedal won't depress, then you have a problem with the brake servo.

(It still doesn't explain why it works some times and not others - but it will tell you that something is amiss with the servo vacuum system)

I'm trying to work out whether the pedal really is "jamming" or whether the vacuum is leaking out and you're being left with "unassisted" brakes.

The other thing that has happened to me (just once in 30 years of driving though....) is that brake fluid absorbs moisture and you're meant to replace it every 2 years or so.

If you don't and you use the brakes a lot and they get hot, then the moisture in the fluid can boil and the brakes simply won't stop you no matter how hard you press the pedal. It happened to me in the lake district when doing a lot of hill descents..... I took it to the garage and played merry hell because the brakes had failed. I couldn't concieve that it was simply "old brake fluid" that caused such a brake failure but once the fluid was changed, the issue never returned.

You'd normally only get this "brake fade" effect though when you've used the brakes a lot and the fluid gets hot enoughto boil the moisture - but your mention of hills has made me wonder....

[jm26]

If the brake pedal really won't press down at all when you have the issue, then its either the master cylinder jamming or vacuum booster.

Try this....

When you turn the engine off, it leaves some residual pressure in the vacuum brake booster (brake servo).

You can feel this, by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal with the engine turned off.

The first time you will hear a hiss and it will go down as far as usual, then as you use up all the vacuum, the pedal gets harder and harder. Eventually, you won't be able to press it down very far at all.

Then if you start up the engine to restore the vacuum, the pedal goes down properly again...

Do this so that you're familiar with what it feels like to have full boost and then no boost - and park the car, as usual, turn the engine off and leave it overnight.

Then get in the car in the morning and see if you still have any resudual brake vacuum. It should keep its pressure and still "hiss" and depress the brake properly several hours later.

If its immediatley got no residual vacuum and the pedal won't depress, then you have a problem with the brake servo.

(It still doesn't explain why it works some times and not others - but it will tell you that something is amiss with the servo vacuum system)

I'm trying to work out whether the pedal really is "jamming" or whether the vacuum is leaking out and you're being left with "unassisted" brakes.

The other thing that has happened to me (just once in 30 years of driving though....) is that brake fluid absorbs moisture and you're meant to replace it every 2 years or so.

If you don't and you use the brakes a lot and they get hot, then the moisture in the fluid can boil and the brakes simply won't stop you no matter how hard you press the pedal. It happened to me in the lake district when doing a lot of hill descents..... I took it to the garage and played merry hell because the brakes had failed. I couldn't concieve that it was simply "old brake fluid" that caused such a brake failure but once the fluid was changed, the issue never returned.

You'd normally only get this "brake fade" effect though when you've used the brakes a lot and the fluid gets hot enoughto boil the moisture - but your mention of hills has made me wonder....

Thanks for the great post. I will try this tonight before it gets taken away tommorow. Not that the dealer will listen anyway, he will say there is nothing wrong with it most likely. I don't think its the brake fluid, it has a full service history and fluid is up to the max level and I have literally only done about 60 miles in it since I bought it so brakes wouldn't have overheated. Would a leak in the vacuum booster cause the grinding mechanical noises i'm hearing?

Cheers

[jm26]

The dealer agreed to look at the car and resolve the problems outlined. The problem was down to a seized caliper pin. This was causing all of the mentioned problems supposedly. I think it was refurbished to allow it to work again.

The car doesn't seem to pull to the right anymore and the wheel sqealing has gone at low speeds. I did hear a slight grinding noise for the first 30 miles or so but haven't heard it since. Jammed brake pedal issue has not happended since the repair either.

Car has an almost unavoidable clutch judder when going from 1st to 2nd but i'm hoping this isn't a problem? Heard this is quite common with the Yaris? Clutch hasn't been replaced at 67k so far.

On my first post I said that 1st gear sounds almost like an electric car. I don't think the car is supposed to sound like this at all, I think this may be one of the belts making a noise. It sounds like a belt spinning / winding faster and faster as I accelerate. Is this a problem? Which belt could it be? Had a quick check of the belts earlier and both felt fine and fairly tight.

Thanks

[jm26]

The dealer agreed to look at the car and resolve the problems outlined. The problem was down to a seized caliper pin. This was causing all of the mentioned problems supposedly. I think it was refurbished to allow it to work again.

The car doesn't seem to pull to the right anymore and the wheel sqealing has gone at low speeds. I did hear a slight grinding noise for the first 30 miles or so but haven't heard it since. Jammed brake pedal issue has not happended since the repair either.

Car has an almost unavoidable clutch judder when going from 1st to 2nd but i'm hoping this isn't a problem? Heard this is quite common with the Yaris? Clutch hasn't been replaced at 67k so far.

On my first post I said that 1st gear sounds almost like an electric car. I don't think the car is supposed to sound like this at all, I think this may be one of the belts making a noise. It sounds like a belt spinning / winding faster and faster as I accelerate. Is this a problem? Which belt could it be? Had a quick check of the belts earlier and both felt fine and fairly tight.

Thanks

Anyone???? Does 1st gear make a winding sound on all Yaris's or do I have a problem somewhere? Only had the car 2 weeks so unsure what it is supposed to sound like.

Ta

[jm26]

Someboy please answer guys my warranty runs out next week so i need an answer asap!!! Cheers

[stantheman1]

I'm afraid it sounds like your Yaris has a problem, does the noise occur when it's being revved from under the bonnet? If so then you can check to see if it's a belt by spraying a little silicone lube into the belt grooves, if it's a belt then the noise will disappear for a while, if not a possible cause could be a failing alternator bearing.

Hope you manage to get it sorted.

[jm26]

I'm afraid it sounds like your Yaris has a problem, does the noise occur when it's being revved from under the bonnet? If so then you can check to see if it's a belt by spraying a little silicone lube into the belt grooves, if it's a belt then the noise will disappear for a while, if not a possible cause could be a failing alternator bearing.

Hope you manage to get it sorted.

Thanks for the response.

Yes when I have the car in 1st gear and start accelerating I hear a 'winding up' sound. It gets louder if I put my foot down and quiter and slower if I release my foot a little. It does sound like a belt rapidly spinning, but it's not sqeaking like I was told it would if it is slipping. There are no noises when the car is idling or when the clutch is pressed in. Which belts do I need to check?

[stantheman1]

Just try one belt at a time, one thing's for sure it's not the timing belt as it doesn't have one, it has a chain!

[andycam06]

sounds like a fan/alternator belt, does this noise happen all the time when driving, usually if its a belt after uav done 10 mile the belt warms up and is running right, no more squeeks, if it is a belt and is continous then it means the belts well seen her day, new belt aint dear but ild still bring it back to the garage

[jm26]

sounds like a fan/alternator belt, does this noise happen all the time when driving, usually if its a belt after uav done 10 mile the belt warms up and is running right, no more squeeks, if it is a belt and is continous then it means the belts well seen her day, new belt aint dear but ild still bring it back to the garage

Cheers for the info.

Is it deffo not the normal engine sound of a yaris then? This is not a sqealing kind of sound that a slipping belt makes so i'm not sure. Don't really want to put any sort of lube on the belts to see if one of them is causing it. The best way I can describe it is it sounds like a small meccano motor spinning something a little to big and heavy (under stress). The winding sound is still apparent if I rev the engine when in neutral.

Steering also feels too loose when going over bumps as it pulls and jerks, any ideas? For a full toyota service history one lady owner car it seems to have a few annoying problems!!

Taking it for a service in a couple of days and hopefully the garage can tell me if anything is wrong.

[jm26]

sounds like a fan/alternator belt, does this noise happen all the time when driving, usually if its a belt after uav done 10 mile the belt warms up and is running right, no more squeeks, if it is a belt and is continous then it means the belts well seen her day, new belt aint dear but ild still bring it back to the garage

Cheers for the info.

Is it deffo not the normal engine sound of a yaris then? This is not a sqealing kind of sound that a slipping belt makes so i'm not sure. Don't really want to put any sort of lube on the belts to see if one of them is causing it. The best way I can describe it is it sounds like a small meccano motor spinning something a little to big and heavy (under stress). The winding sound is still apparent if I rev the engine when in neutral.

Steering also feels too loose when going over bumps as it pulls and jerks, any ideas? For a full toyota service history one lady owner car it seems to have a few annoying problems!!

Sorry the engine does not make the winding noise when revved in neutral.... Could it just be the cam chain? Possibly an oil change needed (last done 10k ago/1 year ago)??

[jm26]

Could it be a dying clutch release bearing?

[alfiejts]

Could it be a dying clutch release bearing?

Now that's an inspired suggestion and you're giving awy you age or training....

I haven't heard one of those for over 30 years, but you could very well be right - its just the right sound for one of those...

[jm26]

Could it be a dying clutch release bearing?

Now that's an inspired suggestion and you're giving awy you age or training....

I haven't heard one of those for over 30 years, but you could very well be right - its just the right sound for one of those...

I don't know much about cars at all, just info I have read up from the internet for similar problems. This turned out to be the problem for someones car thats all.