How To Clean An Auris T180 / Sr180 Egr Valve, This Could Be A Good Ide

[Axeman1977]

Thanks for the reply, however is it ok to spray carb cleaner into the manifold?

We did do a 180 mile run yesterday sitting just over 2000rpm.

[Rick D4D]

Thanks for the reply, however is it ok to spray carb cleaner into the manifold?

We did do a 180 mile run yesterday sitting just over 2000rpm.

well my car defo had some carb cleaner run into the manifold and apart from the slight misfire on restart(couple of seconds if that) everything was fine, I will add if left long enough this should evaporate or soak into the carbon and make it come loose. I would not spray a can down the manifold but half a dozen squirts 20 seconds apart giving this time to soak into the carbon should not hurt. I would also say with the run yesterday I would guess the smoke as now gone.

[Axeman1977]

Smoke is still there when doing about 1800rpm with foot flat to floor before turbo kicks in and then smoke disappears. I'm guessing the system is still recovering after 52,000 miles without an egr clean!!

[Axeman1977]

OK, So I pulled the negative on the Battery on sunday, hopefully resetting the ecu and the results....

Well the car feels more perky, still a bit of smoke and some flat spots but the throttle and drive now seem to match the indicated revs.

If you drive it in the right gears and don't overload it then it is driving fine again.

[T Sport 1978]

OK, So I pulled the negative on the battery on sunday, hopefully resetting the ecu and the results....

Well the car feels more perky, still a bit of smoke and some flat spots but the throttle and drive now seem to match the indicated revs.

If you drive it in the right gears and don't overload it then it is driving fine again.

This is such a great post, excellent instructions and clearly beneficial to all with our prone 2AD engines.

Axeman1977, can you keep us posted on how your car gets on please?

[OldSkoO1]

OK, So I pulled the negative on the battery on sunday, hopefully resetting the ecu and the results....

Well the car feels more perky, still a bit of smoke and some flat spots but the throttle and drive now seem to match the indicated revs.

If you drive it in the right gears and don't overload it then it is driving fine again.

You could also pull the ecu-b fuses out from the engine bay fusebox. Pump the brake till it goes hard then replace, this is an easy way to reset as with the Battery you also have to wait for the charge to dissipate.

[Axeman1977]

Finally, the problem is solved.

Up until now the car had been struggling at low revs and producing James Bond styles of cloud which to say the least were embarrassing for a car of this age.

Got round to doing a second clean of the EGR valve this weekend. This time I was armed with carb cleaner and a steam cleaner to boot.

Once I removed the valve I gave it a good go with the carb cleaner and old toothbrush but still couldn't tell if it made any difference. Wanted to make sure the valve was moving smoothly so I removed the solenoid. It was at this point I noticed the problem.

With the valve in it's normal position there was still a gap between the valve cup and the moulding where you could see daylight, the valve wasn't seating properly. By pushing the valve open you could just make out soot etc on the back of the cups and within the recess where the valve sits in. A thorough clean with carb cleaner and the steam cleaner managed to get rid of this and the valve seated properly with no gaps showing.

Replaced everything and took car for a drive .......

What a difference!!!! No smoke and a smooth and nice delivery of power regardless of the rev range.

Sweet relief, problem solved with no hefty garage repair fee.

My advice to you all is if you clean the valve, ensure you do a thorough clean and check the valve is seated properly!!

[Rick D4D]

Thats great :) I am just glad my guide was of help and this is the reason I went to this trouble of making the guide.

[OldSkoO1]

I defiantly noticed smoother and more power after cleaning. I know because i remember flooring it in 2nd gear and it pushed me back into my seat with a snap.

I never got rid of the smoke problem until the dealership replaced the manifold.

[Rick D4D]

I know a guy on the Rav 4 section just found this to be of help and cured his problem so thought I would give it a bump

[Daveyonthemove]

This looks like a useful guide, i'll be using this over the next few days to see what condition my EGR is in.

My car has only covered 15500 miles, and i have no idea what fuel the previous owner was using, so it won't hurt to have a good look at it to ensure its as clean as it can be.

[fonserg]

Start up in EGR air from turbo and forget forever!

[Daveyonthemove]

Can you explain those pics please?

It looks like you diverted the EGR to another location, but where, and has this given any benefits, or flashing lights on the dash?

Thanks

[Rick D4D]

I cant see how it will make much difference as it is the DPF that hammers the mpg not the EGR so all you have gained is not have to clean the EGR out every 15k etc

[freestyle]

Hi guys,

Ricks asked me to pop over from the rav forum to show you my manifold, appears mine was pretty bad!

[Daveyonthemove]

Yeah, i'd agree that it is pretty bad!

I expect the car will feel a fair bit smoother once that is cleaned out.

[Rick D4D]

I bought this to clean the MAF sensor http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290498175899&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT, seemed to work well as the 2 bars with the glass bulb on cleaned up a lot.

[wastedagen]

Well back in February I too cleaned my EGR Valve. Last weekend my Check Engine light came on. Took it it to Toyota Monday and they looked at the code and it turned out to be an EGR valve problem.

I told them I had stripped and cleaned the valve. They said it could be the EGR Valve needle that is stuck or something worse. Worse as in requiring an engine strip and clean.............That scares me.

Toyota marked my dip stick and noted my mileage, and I am to do 1000 miles, re-inspect/clean the EGR valve again and return to see if the oil drops. They say excesive oil consuption indicates a broken EGR valve. This time I will take more notice of the sliding valve needle and give that another clean.

I did an oil change last october, covered 2500 miles and no oil drop so far, still on max.

So if the Check Engine comes back on, with no oil drop, then it could be a replacement EGR valve. Quoted me £220+labour. But i'll probably change it myself.

Will let you know in 1000 miles time the outcome.

[OldSkoO1]

Yes dead easy to change yourself as you already know.

Wonder how a dodgy EGR valve could lead to excessive oil consumption? I thought only waste travels through that valve. Even if it was stuck i can't see what other part of the engine it could influence to use more oil.

Unless i'm out of touch with my toyotas.

[paigerich]

Would this work with any D-4D? I've got a 2007 Corolla with 45k on the clock and have been having problems when car is cold. Engine light coming on, no power......

[Daveyonthemove]

Its not guaranteed, but its a cheap alternative to buying a new part. If it works then you will have saved a lot of money, but if it fails you will only have spent about £5 on carb cleaner and about an hour of your own time cleaning it.

[Phil_1985]

has anyone had problems getting off the bolts? I cannot get the right hand bolt off one the third picture on the first page... I've managed to break a ratchet spanner trying to get it off it just won't budge! All the other bolts I managed to get off though.. It's a 2007 T180 39,000miles

Thanks

[del_piero_3]

Hi guys,

Just registered to say big thanks to “Rick D4D” for the above tip and then to go extra mile with the tutorial with pictures. I have no knowledge in cars but due to tutorial it was straight forward. My Auris was giving me headache ever since I bought it 10 months ago (08 Reg, 34k with FDSH). This was my first time with Toyota, I usually stick with Germans. The fuel economy on Auris was so rubbish it was unbelievable. I normally (99% of the time) do a full tank, about 75 – 85% of my miles are motorway miles from the tank.

In the last few occasions during Dec 10 and Jan 11, this is what I noted;

1. £74.57 of diesel gave 540 miles
   
2. £59.04 of diesel gave 337 miles
   
3. £24.68 of diesel gave 179 miles (being extremely tight and cautious – not !Removed! practical at all)
   

The ECU displayed between 40-42MPG during motorway driving. I am not a heavy performance driver, over 12 yrs driving experience, usually drive between 65 -80MPH. I got fed up with poor mileage, costing me extra tank/about £60 a month and that’s how I came across this useful thread.

After cleaning the EGR, I reset the ECU, I then fuelled up (46.55L @ 129.9p = £60.47) and inflated the tyres (front 35 and rear 38) and the weather temperature was between 7 - 9c. I did 105 miles round trip, keeping it around 70MPH/2k rev/ 6th gear, changing gears between 2-2.5k. Going up, I had no luggage and just me in the car, whilst my return trip I had two additional adults and luggage weighing approx 50kg. My ECU read, 52.9MPG, 53MPH average speed. The car seems a bit smoother, quieter and slight more responsive.

I decided to refuel and see how much was used for 105 miles (8.87L @ 129.9p = £11.52). Can anyone see a pattern from above, from my perspective it’s a major improvement and its about 10 extra motorway miles per gallon. I have attached some of my EGR before and after pictures…

[del_piero_3]

Here are the after pictures....

[Daveyonthemove]

54.2 actual MPG is a good result, well done