Engine Warning Light

[seanin4711]

Hi all!

Have engine warning light on a 1999 1.6 Avensis leanburn.

114,000miles(regularly service myself(oil,filter and plugs)

I am going to try the disconnect the -ve from the Battery and also a fresh oil and filter change and see how i get on.

Failing that I will bring it to my local and get a diagnostic check done on it.

Am I right in thinking the 1999 avensis does not have a ocbd socket to read fault codes?or whats the story?

thanks in advance

John

[marama32]

Hi John,

OCDB sockets were standard on cars from 1996, so you should have one. I've never needed to touch mine, but I think it is in with the fuses behind the pull out tray under the steering wheel.

Marv

[seanin4711]

Hi John,

OCDB sockets were standard on cars from 1996, so you should have one. I've never needed to touch mine, but I think it is in with the fuses behind the pull out tray under the steering wheel.

Marv

Hi Marv!

Front oxygen sensor gone pricey piece of kit anywhere in Uk I can get my hands on one for anywhere less than £300-350€?

linky: http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/car_commerc...tra.php?id=8006

what about this one:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Oxygen-Sensor-TOYOTA...1#ht_4945wt_939

Also how easy/difficult is it to fit?any guides out there?

thanks

john

[marama32]

Hi John,

At the end of the day, an Oxygen sensor is an Oxygen sensor. This is a universal fit, so should be ok.

As to the fitting I'm not sure, but I have a haynes manual kicking around.

Send me a personal message with you e-mail address & when I find it & it's in the manual, I'll scan it & send it as a pdf attachment for you.

Cheers,

Marv

[Beagh1958]

To seanin4711.

You could try depending on which part of Galway your from Gus Murphy Auto Electrics in Ennis on Mill Road for lambda sensor.

Or better still you can sign up to Lindop Brothers official Toyota dealer in the UK. Partsman at Lindop goes under the name of Parts-King, do a search on the forum & you can be sure you will not be paying rip-off Irish prices.

Very easy to renew, you just need a 22mm spanner & a bit of WD40.

Regards, Beagh.

[Konrad C]

I read this post with interest, because I had a similar problem and resolved it in a different manner.

First I found out how to use the self diagnostic method, using a wire as a jumper between points 4 and 13 of the OBD socket.

This only works with the pre 2001(vvti) Avensis. With the wire installed turn the key to on position but do not start the car.

The dash warning lights will come on and the ABS, SRS, and engine MIL will flash.

The engine light will flash twice then after a period flash once. It will repeat this over again. That is code 21 for the oxygen sensor. All the above is free!

The next thing is I went on the web and found a Toyota specialist seller, who sold me a genuine leanburn sensor at two thirds the cost. Another saving.

Once it arrived in the post, a few minutes with a 10 or 11 mm spanner to change the sensor.

Finally pulled the EFI fuse to clear the faults from memory and no more engine light.

Due to the unique sensor, I don't think you can buy any cheap universal sensor, but I may be wrong. The car may not run correctly and throw the emissions out. The engine light may also come on! Anyone who has used a universal sensor please let me know out of interest.

[seanin4711]

I read this post with interest, because I had a similar problem and resolved it in a different manner.

First I found out how to use the self diagnostic method, using a wire as a jumper between points 4 and 13 of the OBD socket.

This only works with the pre 2001(vvti) Avensis. With the wire installed turn the key to on position but do not start the car.

The dash warning lights will come on and the ABS, SRS, and engine MIL will flash.

The engine light will flash twice then after a period flash once. It will repeat this over again. That is code 21 for the oxygen sensor. All the above is free!

The next thing is I went on the web and found a Toyota specialist seller, who sold me a genuine leanburn sensor at two thirds the cost. Another saving.

Once it arrived in the post, a few minutes with a 10 or 11 mm spanner to change the sensor.

Finally pulled the EFI fuse to clear the faults from memory and no more engine light.

Due to the unique sensor, I don't think you can buy any cheap universal sensor, but I may be wrong. The car may not run correctly and throw the emissions out. The engine light may also come on! Anyone who has used a universal sensor please let me know out of interest.

Hi all!

Bought the sensor from eBay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...T#ht_2985wt_732

which states that it does fit my engine 4A-FE.

the faulty part has short lead with four wires- 2 black a white and a blue, the new one (universal i presume) has 4 wires also 2 white a black and a grey plus lead is twice as long.

Now my issue is that even when i fit the eBay sensor the engine warning light still comes on!

I dont know how to reset the ECU(is that the issue,i dont know?)

So basically no way of finding out if the new sensor is working/compatible etc.

anyone shed any light?

also at konrad where online did you get your sensor at 2/3 price???

thanks

john

[Beagh1958]

To seanin4711,

Forum users will tell you to disconnect Battery or remove a certain fuse to switch of MIL light, that's all this will do ie: switch off light. Once your light comes on to denote a fault in the system, it is recorded in the memory of the ECM/ECU whatever you want to call it. Your memory can only be cleared by proper diagnostic equipment ie: good quality code reader or proper diagnostics laptop.

Your car should have a OBD socket near drivers steering column also you have a diagnostics socket in your engine bay, should be to the left hand side of engine bay. If you have memory cleared by local garage and light comes back on, then you either have a duff oxygen/lambda sensor or your fault is elsewhere.

Sign up to "Lindop Brothers" official Toyota dealer in North Wales, the parts man is on this forum is known as "Parts-King". You can rest assured you will get reduced prices on any parts you might require.

Regards, Beagh.

PS:www.lindoptoyota.co.uk. Also remember since "Hogans" went to the wall, the remaining dealer in North Galway can pretty much charge what they want as they have no competition.

[Beagh1958]

To seanin4711.

Have to correct myself, pulling 15amp EFI fuse in engine bay fusebox will clear fault on your model. My apologies.

Regards, Beagh.

[BALIKBAYAN]

What I have heard is that the leanburn engines use a special oxygen sensor that is almost impossible to find from other places than Toyota. Those sensors are also called leaned mixture sensor, just to tell that they are not an ordinary oxygen sensor. Those sensors are way too expensive. I would suggest to buy a second hand to save some money. I believe that the 4A-FE engine might be difficult to find the right spares as there are leanburn versions and stochiometric versions of that engine. They use different sensors and they have different ignition systems too.

It is very easy to change them as Konrad wrote. I wrote almost the same words as him yesterday or the day before in the Carina section. And it is very easy to delete the faultcode from the memory. Just let the EFI fuse be away for some seconds.

What I have understood is that the steady lit check engine light will go off as soon as the fault is gone. That means that if the sensor you bought was correct the light would be gone. When you pull the fuse you just empty the memory so it will be easier to know what is causing the fault next time your check engine light goes on again. It is easier to start looking for faults when you only have one fault code instead of many fault codes that might have been cleared.

I changed my lean mixture sensor yesterday and mine 4A-FE leanburn had this part number on it 89463-20070. It is some years older than yours, but it might help you.

[seanin4711]

What I have heard is that the leanburn engines use a special oxygen sensor that is almost impossible to find from other places than Toyota. Those sensors are also called leaned mixture sensor, just to tell that they are not an ordinary oxygen sensor. Those sensors are way too expensive. I would suggest to buy a second hand to save some money. I believe that the 4A-FE engine might be difficult to find the right spares as there are leanburn versions and stochiometric versions of that engine. They use different sensors and they have different ignition systems too.

It is very easy to change them as Konrad wrote. I wrote almost the same words as him yesterday or the day before in the Carina section. And it is very easy to delete the faultcode from the memory. Just let the EFI fuse be away for some seconds.

What I have understood is that the steady lit check engine light will go off as soon as the fault is gone. That means that if the sensor you bought was correct the light would be gone. When you pull the fuse you just empty the memory so it will be easier to know what is causing the fault next time your check engine light goes on again. It is easier to start looking for faults when you only have one fault code instead of many fault codes that might have been cleared.

I changed my lean mixture sensor yesterday and mine 4A-FE leanburn had this part number on it 89463-20070. It is some years older than yours, but it might help you.

please tell me how parts king is cheaper than parsons in tuam?

here is what partking is charging Total £336.95

parsons are charging €350 where is the saving there?

gus murphy doesnt do them.

very confused!

slan

sean

[BALIKBAYAN]

It is almost the same price as here in Sweden. I found a site from Netherlands that sell lean mixture sensor for the AT22 Avensis for "only" €299. Have a look at their webshop at http://www.cartoyota.nl/contents/nl/d27_avensis_t22.html

I hope you get will be able to read dutch. I had some problems with it though.

If you want to save more money buy a second hand sensor.

[Highlight]

Did you try www.micksgarage.ie I see them there for €142.80 + carriage

[seanin4711]

Did you try www.micksgarage.ie I see them there for €142.80 + carriage

the one i need is the one with the plate onto the sensor like the last link i put up.

also pulled the15amp efi fuse and light back up

here is the troublemaker

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CpMQi...feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zMp41...feat=directlink

thanks

sean

[Konrad C]

I read this post with interest, because I had a similar problem and resolved it in a different manner.

First I found out how to use the self diagnostic method, using a wire as a jumper between points 4 and 13 of the OBD socket.

This only works with the pre 2001(vvti) Avensis. With the wire installed turn the key to on position but do not start the car.

The dash warning lights will come on and the ABS, SRS, and engine MIL will flash.

The engine light will flash twice then after a period flash once. It will repeat this over again. That is code 21 for the oxygen sensor. All the above is free!

The next thing is I went on the web and found a Toyota specialist seller, who sold me a genuine leanburn sensor at two thirds the cost. Another saving.

Once it arrived in the post, a few minutes with a 10 or 11 mm spanner to change the sensor.

Finally pulled the EFI fuse to clear the faults from memory and no more engine light.

Due to the unique sensor, I don't think you can buy any cheap universal sensor, but I may be wrong. The car may not run correctly and throw the emissions out. The engine light may also come on! Anyone who has used a universal sensor please let me know out of interest.

Hi all!

Bought the sensor from eBay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...T#ht_2985wt_732

which states that it does fit my engine 4A-FE.

the faulty part has short lead with four wires- 2 black a white and a blue, the new one (universal i presume) has 4 wires also 2 white a black and a grey plus lead is twice as long.

Now my issue is that even when i fit the eBay sensor the engine warning light still comes on!

I dont know how to reset the ECU(is that the issue,i dont know?)

So basically no way of finding out if the new sensor is working/compatible etc.

anyone shed any light?

also at konrad where online did you get your sensor at 2/3 price???

thanks

john

Sorry for the late response. The Actual price I paid was £222.92, including postage from Nippon Automotive - http://www.nipponautomotive.co.uk/. That was 2 years ago. I phoned them and they actually gave me a lower than advertised price. The sensor that I received was a genuine original Toyota sensor, part no. 89463-20070 Denso, complete with gasket. It was in Blueprint packaging! :D Toyota quoted me £350!!!!

When I bored you all with my post 2 years back, I thanked Nippon Automotive and they thanked me back. I say give them a try.

Also try http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_LB1037.html. The sensor is compatible with both the 4AFE and 7AFE leanburn engines.

As mentioned before, you could risk a compatible sensor or a secondhand one. My car easily passed the emissions, and the readings were like a new engine! :D

Once again sorry for the late reply and let us know how you get on.

[Highlight]

Did you try www.micksgarage.ie I see them there for €142.80 + carriage

the one i need is the one with the plate onto the sensor like the last link i put up.

also pulled the15amp efi fuse and light back up

here is the troublemaker

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CpMQi...feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zMp41...feat=directlink

thanks

sean

There is a breaker in Aclare Co Sligo George Simpson who breaks all Toyota Stuff and he might have something.His phone no is 0719181222

[Beagh1958]

To seanin4711,

I have to say that is strange. You have gone to "Lindop" site & signed up, which would then entitle you to discount. If you have i can only say sorry, i thought it would be much cheaper. You may well have to go the way of "Konrad" and use nipparts or Blue Print especially if they are made by Denso, they are the original parts supplier for most Toyota electrical parts.

Regards, Beagh.

PS: See PM.

[seanin4711]

What I have heard is that the leanburn engines use a special oxygen sensor that is almost impossible to find from other places than Toyota. Those sensors are also called leaned mixture sensor, just to tell that they are not an ordinary oxygen sensor. Those sensors are way too expensive. I would suggest to buy a second hand to save some money. I believe that the 4A-FE engine might be difficult to find the right spares as there are leanburn versions and stochiometric versions of that engine. They use different sensors and they have different ignition systems too.

It is very easy to change them as Konrad wrote. I wrote almost the same words as him yesterday or the day before in the Carina section. And it is very easy to delete the faultcode from the memory. Just let the EFI fuse be away for some seconds.

What I have understood is that the steady lit check engine light will go off as soon as the fault is gone. That means that if the sensor you bought was correct the light would be gone. When you pull the fuse you just empty the memory so it will be easier to know what is causing the fault next time your check engine light goes on again. It is easier to start looking for faults when you only have one fault code instead of many fault codes that might have been cleared.

I changed my lean mixture sensor yesterday and mine 4A-FE leanburn had this part number on it 89463-20070. It is some years older than yours, but it might help you.

I am taking it that the 4A-FE engine is a leanburn when it is not a VVTI?

anyway of finding out 100% that it is in fact a leanburn?

thanks

john

[seanin4711]

Did you try www.micksgarage.ie I see them there for €142.80 + carriage

the one i need is the one with the plate onto the sensor like the last link i put up.

also pulled the15amp efi fuse and light back up

here is the troublemaker

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CpMQi...feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zMp41...feat=directlink

thanks

sean

There is a breaker in Aclare Co Sligo George Simpson who breaks all Toyota Stuff and he might have something.His phone no is 0719181222

thanks all for your help!

will keep on looking!

regs

sean

[Beagh1958]

To seanin4711,

You better double check that error code via local garage with diagnostic's equipment before you go spending big money. If light keep's returning, your new Lambda could be the wrong type for car, faulty part or worst of all, an incorrect fault diagnosis.

Regards, Beagh.

PS: See PM.

[seanin4711]

Did you try www.micksgarage.ie I see them there for €142.80 + carriage

the one i need is the one with the plate onto the sensor like the last link i put up.

also pulled the15amp efi fuse and light back up

here is the troublemaker

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CpMQi...feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zMp41...feat=directlink

thanks

sean

There is a breaker in Aclare Co Sligo George Simpson who breaks all Toyota Stuff and he might have something.His phone no is 0719181222

called george,nice guy,and he said he has one and will arrange for it to be brought down to galway early next week,fingers and toes crossed!

thanks

guys!

sean

[BALIKBAYAN]

What I have heard is that the leanburn engines use a special oxygen sensor that is almost impossible to find from other places than Toyota. Those sensors are also called leaned mixture sensor, just to tell that they are not an ordinary oxygen sensor. Those sensors are way too expensive. I would suggest to buy a second hand to save some money. I believe that the 4A-FE engine might be difficult to find the right spares as there are leanburn versions and stochiometric versions of that engine. They use different sensors and they have different ignition systems too.

It is very easy to change them as Konrad wrote. I wrote almost the same words as him yesterday or the day before in the Carina section. And it is very easy to delete the faultcode from the memory. Just let the EFI fuse be away for some seconds.

What I have understood is that the steady lit check engine light will go off as soon as the fault is gone. That means that if the sensor you bought was correct the light would be gone. When you pull the fuse you just empty the memory so it will be easier to know what is causing the fault next time your check engine light goes on again. It is easier to start looking for faults when you only have one fault code instead of many fault codes that might have been cleared.

I changed my lean mixture sensor yesterday and mine 4A-FE leanburn had this part number on it 89463-20070. It is some years older than yours, but it might help you.

I am taking it that the 4A-FE engine is a leanburn when it is not a VVTI?

anyway of finding out 100% that it is in fact a leanburn?

thanks

john

The VVTI engines came after the leanburn engines was "popular". The leanburn engines use an a/f mixture close to 22:1 (14.4:1 for stochiometric). When you have this lean combustion you reduce lot of dangerous gases in the exhaust and you loose quite much power too. The stochiometric 4A-FE engine had around 15 horsepower more than the leanburn version, 15% more power.

The problem when you have the lean combustion is that the exhaustgases has a different mix of gases and the normal o2-sensor don't work very well. I guess that is the reason why your new sensor don't work. The original sensor for 4A-FE leanburn and 7A-FE leanburn is the toyota number I wrote earlier and Konrad also wrote it. The nippon denso number is ND192500-40090. Double check wich number your old sensor have. You will find the number on the ring very close to the flange.

I searched e-bay too when I was looking for a new sensor and there was many that said that their sensors would work with the 4A-FE engine but the original number for the lean mixture sensor was not on their lists with compatible sensors.

If you have got the correct fault code you have to get the right type of sensor. The MIL-light will be off when the fault is cured.

Don't forget to have a look at the wiring from the connector too. It doesn't have to be a faulty sensor. It could be a faulty wiring from the sensor to the ECU. The ECU can't see any difference between those things, it is just a stupid computer.

[seanin4711]

What I have heard is that the leanburn engines use a special oxygen sensor that is almost impossible to find from other places than Toyota. Those sensors are also called leaned mixture sensor, just to tell that they are not an ordinary oxygen sensor. Those sensors are way too expensive. I would suggest to buy a second hand to save some money. I believe that the 4A-FE engine might be difficult to find the right spares as there are leanburn versions and stochiometric versions of that engine. They use different sensors and they have different ignition systems too.

It is very easy to change them as Konrad wrote. I wrote almost the same words as him yesterday or the day before in the Carina section. And it is very easy to delete the faultcode from the memory. Just let the EFI fuse be away for some seconds.

What I have understood is that the steady lit check engine light will go off as soon as the fault is gone. That means that if the sensor you bought was correct the light would be gone. When you pull the fuse you just empty the memory so it will be easier to know what is causing the fault next time your check engine light goes on again. It is easier to start looking for faults when you only have one fault code instead of many fault codes that might have been cleared.

I changed my lean mixture sensor yesterday and mine 4A-FE leanburn had this part number on it 89463-20070. It is some years older than yours, but it might help you.

I am taking it that the 4A-FE engine is a leanburn when it is not a VVTI?

anyway of finding out 100% that it is in fact a leanburn?

thanks

john

George simpson in SLigo sorted me out 2nd hand sensor €40!

Wokring so far so good!

thanks

for all your help!!!

cheers

sean

The VVTI engines came after the leanburn engines was "popular". The leanburn engines use an a/f mixture close to 22:1 (14.4:1 for stochiometric). When you have this lean combustion you reduce lot of dangerous gases in the exhaust and you loose quite much power too. The stochiometric 4A-FE engine had around 15 horsepower more than the leanburn version, 15% more power.

The problem when you have the lean combustion is that the exhaustgases has a different mix of gases and the normal o2-sensor don't work very well. I guess that is the reason why your new sensor don't work. The original sensor for 4A-FE leanburn and 7A-FE leanburn is the toyota number I wrote earlier and Konrad also wrote it. The nippon denso number is ND192500-40090. Double check wich number your old sensor have. You will find the number on the ring very close to the flange.

I searched e-bay too when I was looking for a new sensor and there was many that said that their sensors would work with the 4A-FE engine but the original number for the lean mixture sensor was not on their lists with compatible sensors.

If you have got the correct fault code you have to get the right type of sensor. The MIL-light will be off when the fault is cured.

Don't forget to have a look at the wiring from the connector too. It doesn't have to be a faulty sensor. It could be a faulty wiring from the sensor to the ECU. The ECU can't see any difference between those things, it is just a stupid computer.

[seanin4711]

got 2nd hand sensor as described and engine light off!

But I am noticing that the fuel economy is the same as when i had the engine light issue.

When all was good I was having between 450 and 500(on a good day) miles from top to toe in the tank indicator.

now(and when the issue appeared) I am struggling to get 400!

I tried to reset the ecu with OCB 2 but car is not compliant!

any ideas???

thanks

sean

[Konrad C]

got 2nd hand sensor as described and engine light off!

But I am noticing that the fuel economy is the same as when i had the engine light issue.

When all was good I was having between 450 and 500(on a good day) miles from top to toe in the tank indicator.

now(and when the issue appeared) I am struggling to get 400!

I tried to reset the ecu with OCB 2 but car is not compliant!

any ideas???

thanks

sean

Hi Sean,

Just pull the EFI fuse for about a minute. This will clear any faults stored and put the car in 'learning mode'. Then drive the car at different engine speeds where the roads allow, so that the car 'learns' map settings.

Another factor is the condition of your secondhand sensor. It could be giving a different signal, but lets try the learning mode first.

Let us know how you get on.

Konrad