Avensis 1998 Will Not Start Off Key.

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

OK folks, it won't start.

It's a 1998 GS avensis 1.8.

I DID have the usual problem with the ignition switch , this I put right a few months ago and all has been great, till now.

Went to start the car and -

It turned over a couple of turns then clicked and stopped turning over.

Lights dim when the ignition switch is turned.

Battery appears healthy as the light does not stay dim after starting.

After trying jump leads anyway it still would not start so bumped it and it burst in to life and runs fine. Got home and turned off engine.

Tried again and lights dim, no start.

From what I have gleened from this forum (it's been great thanks folks) I am guessing the starter motor is either dirty or knackered.

Firstly does anyone have any thoughts (have I missed something and it is not the starter)

Does anyone know somewhere that does recon starters by post in 24 hours that are good ?

It's just not worth me spending a fortune on the car, it's done 145000 so is only just run in but at 12 years old I do not want to part with too much cash.

Can the motor be removed and cleaned first ?

Cheers,

Pete.

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

Local parts place is quoting £105 in VAT (which seems OK) for a new unit and are getting back with a quote for a recon.

[MW0ELC]

Sounds more like a Battery on the way out / gone or charging circuit ( alternator ) I would go down the route of a local garage and ask for a load test on the Battery. If the lights are dimming on turnover there is not much voltage in the Battery. If the relays are clicking on turnover, this too would suggest low volts. The alternator circuit may not be supplying the full charging voltage and this weather does not help, constant drain on the battery with all circuits on and short journeys not replacing the lost charge. Start at the cheap end first and get the battery checked out. Have a clean of all the terminals too, may just be a dirty contact, clean them up and smear with grease or petroleum jelly. Do you have access to a multimeter ? If so, check your battery volts when on tickover, should be around 13.5 to 14.5 volts, if so, it indicates the battery is not holding charge.

Les

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

Thanks for that. I've checked and the Battery is fine.

Just to clarify there is no longer any clicking . All that happens is that the lights dim when the key is in the start position but recover strongly (and bright). I thought it might be a jammed starter but the car bumps no problem and even with all the lights etc. on seems to be running ok.

I appreciate the thoughts though as I've followed them and eliminated the Battery and alternator.

[MW0ELC]

Peter, how did you check the Battery ? One thing with modern batteries is that once on their way out, under heavy load like cranking the engine, one or more cell's may short circuit, reducing the volts and amps and failing to crank the engine and dimming the lights. Under light loads and engine running, the Battery gives no sign of problems. If you have had a load test, then forgive me, but the fact that the lights dim under cranking means that the Battery is under load and a starter failure would / should be an open circuit, i.e. battery is not under load.

Les

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

The Battery is quite new so I put a volt meter across it. Granted this was not a full load check. It just didn't appear to be Battery as all the lights were bright and I've had Battery problems in the past and this didn't fit the bill.

The dimming of the lights did turn out to be a symptom of a problem with the starter.

It's working fine now I've replaced it.

I do appreciate the comments though as it made me double check before I spent money on what could have been a red herring. Made me check the connections to the battery, to the starter etc.

I did take a chance and could have ended up with egg on my face. Just glad I didn't .

Having said that your comments were very valid and I wouldn't encourage anyone to just assume it's starter before checking battery first then wiggling the ignition switch.

Thanks again, it would have saved me a few quid had I not double checked before I got the motor sorted.

[Q.S.]

Peter, how did you check the battery ? One thing with modern batteries is that once on their way out, under heavy load like cranking the engine, one or more cell's may short circuit, reducing the volts and amps and failing to crank the engine and dimming the lights. Under light loads and engine running, the battery gives no sign of problems. If you have had a load test, then forgive me, but the fact that the lights dim under cranking means that the battery is under load and a starter failure would / should be an open circuit, i.e. battery is not under load.

Les

I appreciate that this is now solved but must rectify the misleading comment below,

"the fact that the lights dim under cranking means that the Battery is under load and a starter failure would / should be an open circuit, i.e. Battery is not under load."

So, what if the starter has gone short circuit i.e. excessive current draw? Battery would be under high load and lights would dim, motor not turning. Duff starter is not always open circuit.