1998 1.8 Gs Won't Start (again)

[Thermal]

Not sure if this was mentioned already, but did you try replacing the spark plugs?

The fact that you see a spark when tested outside the cylinders is no guarantee that they spark sufficiently when under compression, specially if they are old.

Make sure you replace them with the correct type for your engine, as specified in the Users Guide.

You also mention that the plugs are "wet".

Are you sure that its petrol.... instead of water?

I know from experience that over the years a lot of water can accumulate inside the tank.

Just a thought.

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

Firstly, thanks for all the suggestions.

Secondly I really should have been more thorough.

I decided that as I knew the fuel was getting through and the air was getting through it could only be sparks.

I had checked 2 and 3 and they were strong. Thinking about it I do not remember checking 1 and 4. Yep , some of you have seen THIS film before. 2 and 3 nice and strong spark. 1 and 4 weak or non-existent spark AHHH!!!! I cannot believe I missed that.

Now before I blunder off and make another big mistake.

I am assuming (see dangerous assumptions) it's the coil pack that provides the spark for plugs 1 and 4. How to I confirm this and what do I do next.

Cheers and thanks for your patience I have been right !Removed! numpty here.

[igormus]

Firstly, thanks for all the suggestions.

Secondly I really should have been more thorough.

I decided that as I knew the fuel was getting through and the air was getting through it could only be sparks.

I had checked 2 and 3 and they were strong. Thinking about it I do not remember checking 1 and 4. Yep , some of you have seen THIS film before. 2 and 3 nice and strong spark. 1 and 4 weak or non-existent spark AHHH!!!! I cannot believe I missed that.

Now before I blunder off and make another big mistake.

I am assuming (see dangerous assumptions) it's the coil pack that provides the spark for plugs 1 and 4. How to I confirm this and what do I do next.

Cheers and thanks for your patience I have been right !Removed! numpty here.

:)

now yo might to have twos: high voltage wire issue or the wrost as spark coil.

do you have coil distributor or an electronic ignition? in case of first -- it can be repaired/maintained -- this job to be done at experienced workshop dealing with such things.

Good Luck and revert with outcome/Igor

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

Latest.

Bought a new multimeter today.

Checked the coils. They are both fine. Oh great.

So the story now is.

Coil that supplies 3 and 2 produces a strong spark for these plugs.

Coil supplying 1 and 4 is dead as far as supply goes.

I swapped the connectors round to test the output from the coil and this confirmed that it appears to be ok.

I've checked all the fuses I can find and they all appear ok.

So I'm guessing it's now time to call the RAC out . Will they use a diagnostic on it and tell me or do I need to go to the currently swamped Mr T and ask them. Or can any quitably equipped garage do it ?

Does anyone know what a likely cause for one coil getting power and one not, I am guessing it's now ECU or something.

Cheers,

The seriously p'ed off Pete.

[igormus]

Latest.

Bought a new multimeter today.

Checked the coils. They are both fine. Oh great.

So the story now is.

Coil that supplies 3 and 2 produces a strong spark for these plugs.

Coil supplying 1 and 4 is dead as far as supply goes.

I swapped the connectors round to test the output from the coil and this confirmed that it appears to be ok.

I've checked all the fuses I can find and they all appear ok.

So I'm guessing it's now time to call the RAC out . Will they use a diagnostic on it and tell me or do I need to go to the currently swamped Mr T and ask them. Or can any quitably equipped garage do it ?

Does anyone know what a likely cause for one coil getting power and one not, I am guessing it's now ECU or something.

Cheers,

The seriously p'ed off Pete.

Pete

you'd test ECU on errors -- it looks like ECU plays with you.

Cheers/Igor

[Thermal]

Pete,

A Code Reader can be a valuable instrument to begin diagnosis.

The cheap ones only display the various error codes stored and can reset the Engine Check light.

The slightly more expensive ones can display the codes and their corresponding meaning, plus a whole lot of real time data if your onboard computers provide them.

The real expensive ones tell you possible causes and what to do next.

Make sure you get a generic one that is fit for your model year, and for the next generation cars as well.

These devices can save you a lot of time, money and guess work, and last a lifetime.

For instance, in your case, if the engine refuses to start and the code reader finds an error code "P1310", there is no need to go down the fuel diagnoses path!

[donnyvfr]

Pete,

A Code Reader can be a valuable instrument to begin diagnosis.

The cheap ones only display the various error codes stored and can reset the Engine Check light.

The slightly more expensive ones can display the codes and their corresponding meaning, plus a whole lot of real time data if your onboard computers provide them.

The real expensive ones tell you possible causes and what to do next.

Make sure you get a generic one that is fit for your model year, and for the next generation cars as well.

These devices can save you a lot of time, money and guess work, and last a lifetime.

For instance, in your case, if the engine refuses to start and the code reader finds an error code "P1310", there is no need to go down the fuel diagnoses path!

a good thing was for you to buy one, sort your car out and 'rent' the unit out to other members in the near vicinity of you, that was you get some dosh back and other members will benefit too.

just a thought, but am reading this saga with interest and hope you find the solution soon

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

Just had the RAC out and he couldn't start it either.

He couldn't get any codes from the car.

It appears that there is an ECU fault (probably) as nothing else seems to be at fault.

So if it is the ECU I assume this is going to get expensive OR are these avaiable and fittable myself ? I know Mr T has encoded them and I'll need to do some practically masonic ritual to code the thing.

[Thermal]

... an ECU fault...

Hmm,

Ironically, I scrapped my 1998 Peugeot 406 last november, 2 months after I ordered my new Avensis, and had been running fine for almost 12 years.

It just quit, on the way out, 300 meters from home, which in hindsight was pure luck.

Everything electrical on the car still worked, except the engine stopped as if the ignition was turned off, and it never started again.

I had it towed to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the ECU was fried.

A new one would have cost me > €2000 installed and reprogrammed, so I told them to strip the car or whatever...

Then an old fashioned Winter broke loose.

Fortunately I could borrow my wife's Yaris when necessary, which was a whole new experience.

I hope your Avensis can be repaired, a lot cheaper.

[kierenh2005]

Oh joy! SHe won't start again.

Just to remove any possible red herrings.

Battery is relatively new and appears to hold a good charge, not struggling to turn the motor at all.

Ignition switch issue was resolved with a new one last year.

Recently had starter reconned and she started ok after this.

It now appears that either the immobiliser is stopping the car running or there's no fuel getting through. Tank is at least a quarter full(well according to the guage it is).

Symptoms.

Car turns over (briskly)off the starter switch but does not fire.

No smell of petrol at the exhaust.

Can hear fuel pump "cycling down" when I switch off.

Central locking from key fob may be suspect (off both original keys) though it does seem to be ok now. I've locked and unlocked a number of times at it works OK, alarm light goes on when locked and goes back off when unlocked.

The only thing I can think I've done differently is that I locked the car using the key fob yesterday and unlocked with the fob. I don't usually do this as I've had to disconnect the alarm siren (ages ago) because of the usual corrosion issue. Ran OK after this and I had started and stopped a number of times. This morning NOTHING!

HELP!

Please note this was also posted in the MR2 forum in error.

My Avensis 1.8gs had this exact problem 2 weeks ago.The problem started after i changed a wheel!!Changed wheel then started the car,went in reverse for 2 meters then stalled and it wouldnt start again.sounded like it wanted to start but wouldn't.Definitly felt like a fuel starvation thing..Spent a few days trying to find a fuel reset switch but couldn't find one (and still dont know if it exists).After this the only thing i done was take out some of the fuses and put them back in.This was some of the fuses in the engine compartment and some in the car,right hand side of steering wheel.After this the car started,and has been running and starting fine ever since.The only thing i think this done is reset the immobiliser.Going back to your first post,and the key fob thing,it sounds like it could possibly be the immobiliser.So i would try the fuses.It may work!!Good luck with the problem.

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

Anything has got to be worth a try right now.

When you say resest the immobiliser what do you mean?

The RAC guy found out the there is a spark for a second or two then nothing.

I am loath to think about getting rid of this car as it has been a fantastic family motor and I'd hate to say godbye to it.

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

Bearing in mind I have taken out all the little fuses to check none were burnt out but none of the bigger ones or relays as they all , at lest visually, look ok.

[kierenh2005]

Bearing in mind I have taken out all the little fuses to check none were burnt out but none of the bigger ones or relays as they all , at lest visually, look ok.

I think that when i took out one of the fuses (not sure which one) and put it back,it somehow reset the immobiliser.There was some clicking noise when i put the fuses back in.I didn,t touch any of the relays.The fuses i remember taking out were the ones i didn't recognise the function of...ie not the lights.Some of the fuses were in the engine compartment and some in the car itself..Changing the fuses was the only thing i did that got the car started,unless it was sheer coincidence that the car started at this time..A few mechanic friends have said it must have reset the immobiliser!! Hope this helps..Keep me posted.

[peterc.lewis@blueyonder.co.uk]

SHE'S RUNNING!!! HURRAY!

Well that was bizzare!

Viaduct garage in Stroubridge said that they could not look at her for a week and when he did he wanted to make sure it was ECU as he felt it was more than likely something else.

In the mean time I might want to disconnect the Battery and put the leads together to drain and latent current in any capacitors. Leave it overnight and try it. Patiance of a maggot I left it for a couple of hours then thought , what the heck let's see.

Not starting.

Then I remembered Igor saying something about the exhaust being potentially blocked. SO I got my wife to turn the engine over while I checked for compression at the exhaust. Yep we've got compression , then SPLUT! "Was that trying to start?" I asked.

Well another couple of turns and shes spluttered back in to live and ran. HURRAY!

So I turned her off (car and potentially not a good idea) so I could bolt the Battery down and get the leads properly connected and took her out for a spin. Thank God for that ! She's making an odd wheezing noise or two that I'm going to check out when she's cooled (spark plugs in etc.).

Cannot believe it, after a week of checking all that stuff that it was probably down to an ECU reset or whatever happens when you do that with the leads.

Thanks to you all for your help and suggestions. It's touching to know that people still want to help each other.

[kierenh2005]

SHE'S RUNNING!!! HURRAY!

Well that was bizzare!

Viaduct garage in Stroubridge said that they could not look at her for a week and when he did he wanted to make sure it was ECU as he felt it was more than likely something else.

In the mean time I might want to disconnect the battery and put the leads together to drain and latent current in any capacitors. Leave it overnight and try it. Patiance of a maggot I left it for a couple of hours then thought , what the heck let's see.

Not starting.

Then I remembered Igor saying something about the exhaust being potentially blocked. SO I got my wife to turn the engine over while I checked for compression at the exhaust. Yep we've got compression , then SPLUT! "Was that trying to start?" I asked.

Well another couple of turns and shes spluttered back in to live and ran. HURRAY!

So I turned her off (car and potentially not a good idea) so I could bolt the battery down and get the leads properly connected and took her out for a spin. Thank God for that ! She's making an odd wheezing noise or two that I'm going to check out when she's cooled (spark plugs in etc.).

Cannot believe it, after a week of checking all that stuff that it was probably down to an ECU reset or whatever happens when you do that with the leads.

Thanks to you all for your help and suggestions. It's touching to know that people still want to help each other.

Great news....glad you got it sorted!!

[igormus]

SHE'S RUNNING!!! HURRAY!

Well that was bizzare!

Viaduct garage in Stroubridge said that they could not look at her for a week and when he did he wanted to make sure it was ECU as he felt it was more than likely something else.

In the mean time I might want to disconnect the battery and put the leads together to drain and latent current in any capacitors. Leave it overnight and try it. Patiance of a maggot I left it for a couple of hours then thought , what the heck let's see.

Not starting.

Then I remembered Igor saying something about the exhaust being potentially blocked. SO I got my wife to turn the engine over while I checked for compression at the exhaust. Yep we've got compression , then SPLUT! "Was that trying to start?" I asked.

Well another couple of turns and shes spluttered back in to live and ran. HURRAY!

So I turned her off (car and potentially not a good idea) so I could bolt the battery down and get the leads properly connected and took her out for a spin. Thank God for that ! She's making an odd wheezing noise or two that I'm going to check out when she's cooled (spark plugs in etc.).

Cannot believe it, after a week of checking all that stuff that it was probably down to an ECU reset or whatever happens when you do that with the leads.

Thanks to you all for your help and suggestions. It's touching to know that people still want to help each other.

CONGRATULATIONS !!!!!

Igor