Rav 4 Handbrake !

[SMH13]

Hello

I have a 2007 T180.,

The handbrake seems quite loose, in that you can pull it up a fair way. (Always had VW's and they seem the opposite).

I took it to Toyota, who charged me £46 to Remove the rear wheels, adjust the handbrake shoes and carry out an efficiency test.

Anyway today the stupid thing started rolling down the hill !

Could anyone help me or point me in the right direction?

Many Thanks for your help

[anchorman]

Yes, the handbrake is a small drum brake inside the rear disc. It is essentially a static brake in that it should only ever be applied while the car is stationary. However, friction materials don't respond well to lack of use as they need temperature to condition them. The temperature from normal braking does enough to burn away the resin sytem that binds the friction material together and expose the friction element which is usually in the form of abrasives.

With time your handbrake can become affected by the lack of temperature and also become impregnated by contamination which is partly wear debris and partly condensation. If you have ever waded it through deep enough water that might have covered the discs that too will have played a part.

To put it right there is a process for reconditioning the friction material although it is a shame that the dealer did not do it before the brakes were adjusted as it may well undo some of the good again. You need to be very careful or you can soon ruin those tiny shoes. They are only about 150mm in diameter and you are going to subject them to the force of your mighty T180. On a quiet road, drive the vehicle up to about 30mph and then apply the handbrake with the equivelant force of lifting a 5lb bag af potatoes (if in doubt practice first). Do this while keeping your thumb on the button for about 100 meters and then let it off. Run the car for about another 2-300 meters then do it again. Repeat one more time and then stop. Not too much pressure and not too long as you are subjecting them to a lot of work. After they have cooled you should find you handbrake has improved considerably but if not do it again but not on the same day and from cold.

The instructions for adjusting the handbrake are pinned at the top of the page if it needs doing again but as long as you don't go mad you should be quite pleased with the results. There is a TSB somewhere that explains a similar process and when I am back at my desktop computer I will add it.

[chatman]

Mention TOYOTA and Brakes in the same sentence and people go all giddy :crazy:

[vivianM]

Hello

I have a 2007 T180.,

The handbrake seems quite loose, in that you can pull it up a fair way. (Always had VW's and they seem the opposite).

I took it to Toyota, who charged me £46 to Remove the rear wheels, adjust the handbrake shoes and carry out an efficiency test.

Anyway today the stupid thing started rolling down the hill !

Could anyone help me or point me in the right direction?

Many Thanks for your help

My T180 (from new at 9 miles on the clock) handbrake has always come up a long way but will hold the vehicle on any hill but you do have to pull it up quite hard under those cirmcumstances it does not seemed to have increased the travel noticably over 8000 miles.

In the old days I was taught that about 5/7 clicks was about right but just checked mine it is 9 to put it well on - it does not come up to the narrow slit at the top of the rubber slot.

Guy

[MarsKy]

My T180 (from new at 9 miles on the clock) handbrake has always come up a long way but will hold the vehicle on any hill but you do have to pull it up quite hard under those cirmcumstances it does not seemed to have increased the travel noticably over 8000 miles.

In the old days I was taught that about 5/7 clicks was about right but just checked mine it is 9 to put it well on - it does not come up to the narrow slit at the top of the rubber slot.

Guy

Hmmm.

Do you push button and apply the handbrake (is wot I do), or ratchet up the clicks? (See http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=73836)

New Sorento has a foot parking brake. Didn't like that.

[shcm]

just checked mine it is 9 to put it well on - it does not come up to the narrow slit at the top of the rubber slot.

The repair manual calls for 7-9 clicks with a 44lbf pull, (of course after adjustment at the wheels themselves) and I think Anch's pinned handbrake adjustment guide also says this.

The newer repair manual for 2009+ models calls for 6-8 clicks. To be honest, mine feels less than that, but I don't use the ratchet (well haven't yet).

Do you push button and apply the handbrake (is wot I do), or ratchet up the clicks?

Got sent on an advanced driving course years ago and the instructor really did not like the ratchet being used , so I never have since - I push in button. Each to his own.

[Davrav]

Hello

I have a 2007 T180.,

The handbrake seems quite loose, in that you can pull it up a fair way. (Always had VW's and they seem the opposite).

I took it to Toyota, who charged me £46 to Remove the rear wheels, adjust the handbrake shoes and carry out an efficiency test.

Anyway today the stupid thing started rolling down the hill !

Could anyone help me or point me in the right direction?

Many Thanks for your help

My T180 (from new at 9 miles on the clock) handbrake has always come up a long way but will hold the vehicle on any hill but you do have to pull it up quite hard under those cirmcumstances it does not seemed to have increased the travel noticably over 8000 miles.

In the old days I was taught that about 5/7 clicks was about right but just checked mine it is 9 to put it well on - it does not come up to the narrow slit at the top of the rubber slot.

Guy

From what I remember 7 clicks is normal for the RAV and it should hold at that point. Anchorman will confirm if that's correct when he is next around no doubt.

Holding the button down can be dangerous as it is possible, in some circumstances, for the pawl to sit on a ratchet tooth rather than bed into the gap. In that situation it could be possible for the lever to slip.

Best bet, if you are in the habit of holding down the release button [clue in the name] is to pull up most of the way and then let button go for last few clicks - the clicking is an audible guide that the lever is locking.

[toondoug]

I had mine changed to 3 clicks at the first service last year they said that 7 was the norm but I insisted and they changed it for no extra charge, been fine ever since

[conorbuzz]

I agree, I had the perfect handbrake, but on my last service and they changed it to a 3 click. It's great, I've tons of hills and its makes a huge difference.

[SMH13]

Yes, the handbrake is a small drum brake inside the rear disc. It is essentially a static brake in that it should only ever be applied while the car is stationary. However, friction materials don't respond well to lack of use as they need temperature to condition them. The temperature from normal braking does enough to burn away the resin sytem that binds the friction material together and expose the friction element which is usually in the form of abrasives.

With time your handbrake can become affected by the lack of temperature and also become impregnated by contamination which is partly wear debris and partly condensation. If you have ever waded it through deep enough water that might have covered the discs that too will have played a part.

To put it right there is a process for reconditioning the friction material although it is a shame that the dealer did not do it before the brakes were adjusted as it may well undo some of the good again. You need to be very careful or you can soon ruin those tiny shoes. They are only about 150mm in diameter and you are going to subject them to the force of your mighty T180. On a quiet road, drive the vehicle up to about 30mph and then apply the handbrake with the equivelant force of lifting a 5lb bag af potatoes (if in doubt practice first). Do this while keeping your thumb on the button for about 100 meters and then let it off. Run the car for about another 2-300 meters then do it again. Repeat one more time and then stop. Not too much pressure and not too long as you are subjecting them to a lot of work. After they have cooled you should find you handbrake has improved considerably but if not do it again but not on the same day and from cold.

The instructions for adjusting the handbrake are pinned at the top of the page if it needs doing again but as long as you don't go mad you should be quite pleased with the results. There is a TSB somewhere that explains a similar process and when I am back at my desktop computer I will add it.

What a star you are, what great information - Thank You, will try this weekend.

[SMH13]

Hello

I have a 2007 T180.,

The handbrake seems quite loose, in that you can pull it up a fair way. (Always had VW's and they seem the opposite).

I took it to Toyota, who charged me £46 to Remove the rear wheels, adjust the handbrake shoes and carry out an efficiency test.

Anyway today the stupid thing started rolling down the hill !

Could anyone help me or point me in the right direction?

Many Thanks for your help

My T180 (from new at 9 miles on the clock) handbrake has always come up a long way but will hold the vehicle on any hill but you do have to pull it up quite hard under those cirmcumstances it does not seemed to have increased the travel noticably over 8000 miles.

In the old days I was taught that about 5/7 clicks was about right but just checked mine it is 9 to put it well on - it does not come up to the narrow slit at the top of the rubber slot.

Guy

Thank you.

[SMH13]

This is the first time I have asked a question and I am so amazed at your knowledge. Thank you for your help.

[anchorman]

The 7-9 clicks is a bit over the top but I can see that Toyota are playing it safe. In fact you can have it much less and the only advice for those with 3 clicks (fully applied) is that it is fine as long as it isn't rubbing. Anyone who adjust the handbrake or cable is best to just jack it up at the back and rock the wheel (it will be hard to run because of the transmission) to make sure it is still nice and free. If so - 3 clicks is fine but if it rubs to any amount you can soon get the temperature up high enough to whip a lining off a shoe. those big wheels are massive levers aginst those tiny hand brake shoes.

shcm

Just remind me how do do that multi - quote thing!

[shcm]

shcm

Just remind me how do do that multi - quote thing!

Probably easier and maybe less confusing to show you sometime.

[vivianM]

just checked mine it is 9 to put it well on - it does not come up to the narrow slit at the top of the rubber slot.

The repair manual calls for 7-9 clicks with a 44lbf pull, (of course after adjustment at the wheels themselves) and I think Anch's pinned handbrake adjustment guide also says this.

The newer repair manual for 2009+ models calls for 6-8 clicks. To be honest, mine feels less than that, but I don't use the ratchet (well haven't yet).

Do you push button and apply the handbrake (is wot I do), or ratchet up the clicks?

Got sent on an advanced driving course years ago and the instructor really did not like the ratchet being used , so I never have since - I push in button. Each to his own.

No, I only used the 'clicks' to check how far it comes up to give a reply (or to check wear) never use them when normally putting handbrake on!

Guy

[jedi134]

Mention TOYOTA and Brakes in the same sentence and people go all giddy :crazy:

:yahoo:

[SMH13]

Yes, the handbrake is a small drum brake inside the rear disc. It is essentially a static brake in that it should only ever be applied while the car is stationary. However, friction materials don't respond well to lack of use as they need temperature to condition them. The temperature from normal braking does enough to burn away the resin sytem that binds the friction material together and expose the friction element which is usually in the form of abrasives.

With time your handbrake can become affected by the lack of temperature and also become impregnated by contamination which is partly wear debris and partly condensation. If you have ever waded it through deep enough water that might have covered the discs that too will have played a part.

To put it right there is a process for reconditioning the friction material although it is a shame that the dealer did not do it before the brakes were adjusted as it may well undo some of the good again. You need to be very careful or you can soon ruin those tiny shoes. They are only about 150mm in diameter and you are going to subject them to the force of your mighty T180. On a quiet road, drive the vehicle up to about 30mph and then apply the handbrake with the equivelant force of lifting a 5lb bag af potatoes (if in doubt practice first). Do this while keeping your thumb on the button for about 100 meters and then let it off. Run the car for about another 2-300 meters then do it again. Repeat one more time and then stop. Not too much pressure and not too long as you are subjecting them to a lot of work. After they have cooled you should find you handbrake has improved considerably but if not do it again but not on the same day and from cold.

The instructions for adjusting the handbrake are pinned at the top of the page if it needs doing again but as long as you don't go mad you should be quite pleased with the results. There is a TSB somewhere that explains a similar process and when I am back at my desktop computer I will add it.

What a star you are, what great information - Thank You, will try this weekend.

Well have checked and seems to come up quite away before it clicks!

As a dizzy woman I have a few times driven down the road for a good few hundred yards and then noticed the hand brake still on ! Will I have damaged it? Thanks

[anchorman]

Yes, the handbrake is a small drum brake inside the rear disc. It is essentially a static brake in that it should only ever be applied while the car is stationary. However, friction materials don't respond well to lack of use as they need temperature to condition them. The temperature from normal braking does enough to burn away the resin sytem that binds the friction material together and expose the friction element which is usually in the form of abrasives.

With time your handbrake can become affected by the lack of temperature and also become impregnated by contamination which is partly wear debris and partly condensation. If you have ever waded it through deep enough water that might have covered the discs that too will have played a part.

To put it right there is a process for reconditioning the friction material although it is a shame that the dealer did not do it before the brakes were adjusted as it may well undo some of the good again. You need to be very careful or you can soon ruin those tiny shoes. They are only about 150mm in diameter and you are going to subject them to the force of your mighty T180. On a quiet road, drive the vehicle up to about 30mph and then apply the handbrake with the equivelant force of lifting a 5lb bag af potatoes (if in doubt practice first). Do this while keeping your thumb on the button for about 100 meters and then let it off. Run the car for about another 2-300 meters then do it again. Repeat one more time and then stop. Not too much pressure and not too long as you are subjecting them to a lot of work. After they have cooled you should find you handbrake has improved considerably but if not do it again but not on the same day and from cold.

The instructions for adjusting the handbrake are pinned at the top of the page if it needs doing again but as long as you don't go mad you should be quite pleased with the results. There is a TSB somewhere that explains a similar process and when I am back at my desktop computer I will add it.

What a star you are, what great information - Thank You, will try this weekend.

Well have checked and seems to come up quite away before it clicks!

As a dizzy woman I have a few times driven down the road for a good few hundred yards and then noticed the hand brake still on ! Will I have damaged it? Thanks

Not if its all working OK.

Does it work any better?