Help With Handling The Biting Point On The Clutch

[viper262]

I have been driving my 06 Aygo Black since last august and i still can't get use to the high biting point on the clutch to move off in first if anyone can give me any tips or hints i would really be greatful i love my Aygo its just the worry of stalling if i get the clutch point to high that bothers me more than anything Thanks

[-Ub3R-]

I know what you mean. The clutch's bite is extremely high. I've been driving the Aygo long enough to get it. Since about when you started.

But it's still sometimes, you just sit there at 1,800 waiting for the car to pick up. Cos if you pull the clutch up, boom. You've grannied it.

I've put an exhaust on mine so I can hear it all the time, and with the Aygo's extremely high and seemingly random clutch bite, getting an even pull away is interesting.

Sounds like your's is just like mine. 06 Aygo+ doing about 42 mpg average. :)

[Raistlin]

It took me a few days of stalls and racing starts to get used to the pedal height, but now I can hear and feel the biting point and pull off with with ease.

[viper262]

Cool i had my racing starts and stalls i want to be able to just get straight to the biting point without thinking about but i find it really difficult and im having to move the pedal slowly to find it especially on hills is the hardest crawling in traffic trying to find a good point to roll on without letting the clutch out to much

[DONFRAMAC]

Cool i had my racing starts and stalls i want to be able to just get straight to the biting point without thinking about but i find it really difficult and im having to move the pedal slowly to find it especially on hills is the hardest crawling in traffic trying to find a good point to roll on without letting the clutch out to much

This is the classic indication of a worn-out clutch, or the adjustment at the operating-lever-end of the cable has not been touched by your servicing mechanics. A lot of owners who put on real mileage, get 3 new clutches within the 3 year warranty period. There is now a better clutch in use. My wife's '59 reg Aygo Platinum has the same cable clutch linkage as her old '55 reg one, and that car was very near to needing a new clutch as the pedal disengaged the 'box with just a slight press latterly.

[Angryhatter]

I have had my car for over a year now and still stall some times due to the clutch.

When ever I drive another car, usually my dads diesel Yaris or mums Rav4 and then come back to mine I have real trouble with it.

That said most small/cheap cars seem to be this way. My friends 206, his mates C2, even the mark1 Yaris'. I think it just comes with the territory.

[jjj_aygo]

Cool i had my racing starts and stalls i want to be able to just get straight to the biting point without thinking about but i find it really difficult and im having to move the pedal slowly to find it especially on hills is the hardest crawling in traffic trying to find a good point to roll on without letting the clutch out to much

When really crawling in traffic, just bring your clutch up to the biting point without any accelerator, you will start to crawl slowly forward then dip the clutch again.... should be a little less damaging than racing starts! Not reccomended for hill starts though!

James

[adilmon]

Toyota have shortened the clutch cable inspection intervals and advised number of service bulletins with the clutch. Get it checked out.

[daveyjp]

If you feel the biting point is too high move your seat backwards slightly - lots of gearchange and stalling problems can be attributed to the fact the driver is sat too close to the pedals.

[Who Me !!]

I have been driving my 06 Aygo Black since last august and i still can't get use to the high biting point on the clutch to move off in first if anyone can give me any tips or hints i would really be greatful i love my Aygo its just the worry of stalling if i get the clutch point to high that bothers me more than anything Thanks

Hi the biting point can be adjusted very easly by someone that knows what they are doing ( up or down ) you just need small hands lol

[another_pleb]

I also found the biting point to be a little high for my liking as it made it a little too easy for my foot to slip off the pedal. I asked the service manager at the Toyota garage to have it shortened and they obliged. The clutch has been fine ever since.

[geezbeez]

Just sold a Fiat Punto because it was needing a new clutch and the car wasn't worth spending the money on. That was at 80,000 miles.

Bought an Aygo expecting better, concerned it seems Aygo may be ever worse?

Before buying I drove 2 Aygo's, an 06 plate Daihatsu Charade and a 55 Daihatsu Sirion (Aygo/107/C1 engine and box are newer revisions daihatsu unit in Charade + practically identical to the Sirion)

Gear box a little notchy by modern standards on all these cars, Sirion was possibly slightly better but these boxes are a bit slow.

My Aygo is fine changing gears in normal driving circumstances, but it cant be rushed and it can be a little reluctant to accept a gear at high revs.

Looked here to see if thats normal. Im thinking it probably is.

What I have picked up from the various articles, and inspecting the clutch linkage, its cable only. Most cars have a hydraulic element which makes them self adjusting.

It seems the clutch needs inspected and adjusted regular.

I think whats happening is as the clutch slowly wears it needs adjusted, if it waers too much without being adjusted to compensate it can start to slip slightly which accelerates wear rapidly. Thinking I need to now inspect the cable myself every 3000 miles to avoid any problem. This is my guess.

Adjusting: I removed the big spring that holds the clutch cable tight on the clutch actuating arm under bonnet (where end of cable attached) and noticed cable was still tight, taut, too tight to turn the adjuster on the end of cable.

Got son to press clutch pedal down and placed a screwdriver handle down against the actuator to keep clutch pressed in slackening cable, and give a few turns of the adjuster on end of cable. Press pedal again and remove screwdriver. cable now held with no slack but not under tension, put spring back on.

Testing the cluch pedal it will now move the first 10mm with minimal resistance , i.e just tensioning the cable and acting against the spring.

Before was resisting all the way actuator was moving on the slightest touch of pedal.

Im not sure how the clutch should be set ( with how much slack) but its clear the big spring is there to take up slack. If theres absolutely no slack it probably wants backed off a bit. 10mm play seems a good.

Above made no diference to the gear change, only lowered clutch a little, hopefully will help clutch to last longer!