Sharing Technical Knowledge: Changing Rear Wheel Bearings On A Yaris D

[RS4]

I have had to change the rear wheel bearings on my Yaris D4D this weekend. There was no radial play in the bearings, but they were making a droning noise at certain road speeds and felt gritty when the hub was rotated with the road wheels removed. I ordered replacement parts from Toyota, which came to five hundred pounds for two new hubs including VAT. The price came as a shock but you cannot just change the bearings, the whole hub including the speed sensor for the ABS must be replaced. The Haynes manual states that the hub assembly can be removed by backing off the hub fixing bolts and striking the said bolt heads with a hammer. I have seen a few posts on this site reference problems with the backing plate for the drum brakes coming off with the hub assembly when impacting the four rear fixing bolts with a hammer and drift. I had exactly the same problems on Saturday. My elder brother, who is a very good mechanic, had a good idea which worked very well. He removed two opposite wheel bolt studs from the hub by striking them from the front with a hammer. They are retained within the bores of the road wheel stud mounting plate via splines on the outer diameter of the studs. He then put two long M12 bolts through the holes, with an M12 nut and washer on each bolt. The nut and washers were on each bolt between its threaded end (which was touching the backing plate) and the road wheel stud plate (so that the washer via the nut was hard up against the rear side of the road wheel stud plate). He simply held the M12 nuts (in turn) with a spanner and gradually turned each bolt head c/wise with a socket/ratchet to jack the hub out. The bolts were in the nine and three o clock positions and nicely missed the brake mechanism. This procedure worked very well and kept the backing plate in position.

[toylexus]

wow thats serious money for the hubs, what miles have you on the car?

[RS4]

wow thats serious money for the hubs, what miles have you on the car?

The car has done just over 100,000 miles. I thought the price was a bit top end, but when you see the full hub assemblies it does not seem too bad. It is a great shame the ABS speed sensor cannot be re-used as this would bring the price down. I also tried Andrew Page for an OEM equivalent part and they were only four pounds cheaper. Bearing in mind its a safety critical component it made sense to acquire the original part with Toyotas quality assurance.

[Raeman]

I have had to change the rear wheel bearings on my Yaris D4D this weekend. There was no radial play in the bearings, but they were making a droning noise at certain road speeds and felt gritty when the hub was rotated with the road wheels removed. I ordered replacement parts from Toyota, which came to five hundred pounds for two new hubs including VAT. The price came as a shock but you cannot just change the bearings, the whole hub including the speed sensor for the ABS must be replaced. The Haynes manual states that the hub assembly can be removed by backing off the hub fixing bolts and striking the said bolt heads with a hammer. I have seen a few posts on this site reference problems with the backing plate for the drum brakes coming off with the hub assembly when impacting the four rear fixing bolts with a hammer and drift. I had exactly the same problems on Saturday. My elder brother, who is a very good mechanic, had a good idea which worked very well. He removed two opposite wheel bolt studs from the hub by striking them from the front with a hammer. They are retained within the bores of the road wheel stud mounting plate via splines on the outer diameter of the studs. He then put two long M12 bolts through the holes, with an M12 nut and washer on each bolt. The nut and washers were on each bolt between its threaded end (which was touching the backing plate) and the road wheel stud plate (so that the washer via the nut was hard up against the rear side of the road wheel stud plate). He simply held the M12 nuts (in turn) with a spanner and gradually turned each bolt head c/wise with a socket/ratchet to jack the hub out. The bolts were in the nine and three o clock positions and nicely missed the brake mechanism. This procedure worked very well and kept the backing plate in position.

Nice tip, thanks for the info!!

[toylexus]

wow thats serious money for the hubs, what miles have you on the car?

The car has done just over 100,000 miles. I thought the price was a bit top end, but when you see the full hub assemblies it does not seem too bad. It is a great shame the ABS speed sensor cannot be re-used as this would bring the price down. I also tried Andrew Page for an OEM equivalent part and they were only four pounds cheaper. Bearing in mind its a safety critical component it made sense to acquire the original part with Toyotas quality assurance.

well i suppose with that mileage its due for renewal and like you say its a critical safety point. Ive a carine e with 250,000 miles and only ever changed 1 rear wheel bearing to date. Ive an old dear with a yaris like yours, she would collapse in a heap if i quoted that price but what can you do, thats todays prices. thanks for the very helpful info.

[Madasafish]

I have seen original Toyota hubs and ABS for sale on eBay for £100...

Thanks for the tip on changing.. I have copied it...

[Rumbly]

Great tip for changing the hub But can't help thinking £250 a side is kinda steep for what essentially is a couple of standard bearings and an oil seal or 2. Seems nowadays nobody is meant to be able to fix anything & probably means a great many perfectly viable vehicles getting scrapped well before the are really actually worn out. When I were a lad ... a car only really got scrapped if it was seriously rusty or seriously accident damaged.

[carlowlad]

I'm puzzled about the backing plate coming off bit. I replaced both rear hubs with scrappy ones. The originals were tight and partially seized on i suspect. I hammered the bolts as the OP did and eventually the hubs came out. This left the brake backing plates swinging loose but not by much as they were partially held by the rigid brake pipes. They did spring about a little but i didn't interfere with them and inserted the replacement hubs asap. Tightened the bolts down and was done and dusted quite quickly actually. Once i had freed the original hubs...that took ages.

I can see why it's a little odd to replace the whole hub but the labour required to replace bearings and ensure they are correctly set may be more than the cost of replacing a whole hub in a fraction of the time.

For once i actually agree with a modern way of doing things (in car repair that is!)

[RS4]

I'm puzzled about the backing plate coming off bit. I replaced both rear hubs with scrappy ones. The originals were tight and partially seized on i suspect. I hammered the bolts as the OP did and eventually the hubs came out. This left the brake backing plates swinging loose but not by much as they were partially held by the rigid brake pipes. They did spring about a little but i didn't interfere with them and inserted the replacement hubs asap. Tightened the bolts down and was done and dusted quite quickly actually. Once i had freed the original hubs...that took ages.

I can see why it's a little odd to replace the whole hub but the labour required to replace bearings and ensure they are correctly set may be more than the cost of replacing a whole hub in a fraction of the time.

For once i actually agree with a modern way of doing things (in car repair that is!)

The backing plate for the drum brakes has a central bore which is a location fit over a machined boss on the hub which is approxiametly 70mm in diameter by 15mm length. Looking at the materials used for the construction of the hub casting and backing plate, I would say they are made from a non corrosion resistant carbon steel and can therefore corrode. My car is five years old and the hub OD was stuck to the backing plate bore via corrosion. The prodedure I described (i.e. the jacking technique) for removing the hubs avoids the possibility of someone impacting the hub bolt heads with a hammer, and not realising the backing plate is moving at the same time. This could transfer a considerable amount of impact load onto the rigid brake pipes, for which they are not designed or substantiated to withstand. Ultimately if this occurs, you still end up with the hub removed from the rear suspension, but with a backing plate stuck to it which requires removal via another process.

[ToyotaDomo]

This is a good tip and it might have been my post that gave you a bit of info about the removal in the first place. But you should have taken my advice on the second hand hubs as I got 2 for 40 sterling instead of £500 and i got the old bolts to go with them so I could hit them as hard as it liked. I fitted one to the wife's yaris and it is working like a dream. I have a second one ready for the next time I need it. I might have a go at the new proceedure if the hub is tight.

[RS4]

This is a good tip and it might have been my post that gave you a bit of info about the removal in the first place. But you should have taken my advice on the second hand hubs as I got 2 for 40 sterling instead of £500 and i got the old bolts to go with them so I could hit them as hard as it liked. I fitted one to the wife's yaris and it is working like a dream. I have a second one ready for the next time I need it. I might have a go at the new proceedure if the hub is tight.

For a safety critical component such as a hub assembly, I personally would only ever trust a new OEM (i.e. Toyota) component. I did have a look on eBay and saw some on sale for approximately one hundred pounds each. However, I quickly dismissed any thoughts of purchasing equivalent aftermarket or second hand parts as I would not have had any confidence in their mechanical integrity or strength. The only way to guarantee the parts are built to print, made from the correct materials, manufactured and inspected in accordance with certified quality standards, is to buy the parts from Toyota.

[ToyotaDomo]

This is a good tip and it might have been my post that gave you a bit of info about the removal in the first place. But you should have taken my advice on the second hand hubs as I got 2 for 40 sterling instead of £500 and i got the old bolts to go with them so I could hit them as hard as it liked. I fitted one to the wife's yaris and it is working like a dream. I have a second one ready for the next time I need it. I might have a go at the new proceedure if the hub is tight.

For a safety critical component such as a hub assembly, I personally would only ever trust a new OEM (i.e. Toyota) component. I did have a look on eBay and saw some on sale for approximately one hundred pounds each. However, I quickly dismissed any thoughts of purchasing equivalent aftermarket or second hand parts as I would not have had any confidence in their mechanical integrity or strength. The only way to guarantee the parts are built to print, made from the correct materials, manufactured and inspected in accordance with certified quality standards, is to buy the parts from Toyota.

I agree that if i was to buy new i too would only buy from toyota. But the second hand ones i got are off a toyota and are genuine toyota parts. The only difference is that the parts are old. In other words they are the same as your old ones and for that matter if you bought a second hand toyota everthing would be second hand on that toyota. So does that mean that you should replace ever component in the car because you don't know the history of it.

[RS4]

This is a good tip and it might have been my post that gave you a bit of info about the removal in the first place. But you should have taken my advice on the second hand hubs as I got 2 for 40 sterling instead of £500 and i got the old bolts to go with them so I could hit them as hard as it liked. I fitted one to the wife's yaris and it is working like a dream. I have a second one ready for the next time I need it. I might have a go at the new proceedure if the hub is tight.

For a safety critical component such as a hub assembly, I personally would only ever trust a new OEM (i.e. Toyota) component. I did have a look on eBay and saw some on sale for approximately one hundred pounds each. However, I quickly dismissed any thoughts of purchasing equivalent aftermarket or second hand parts as I would not have had any confidence in their mechanical integrity or strength. The only way to guarantee the parts are built to print, made from the correct materials, manufactured and inspected in accordance with certified quality standards, is to buy the parts from Toyota.

I agree that if i was to buy new i too would only buy from toyota. But the second hand ones i got are off a toyota and are genuine toyota parts. The only difference is that the parts are old. In other words they are the same as your old ones and for that matter if you bought a second hand toyota everthing would be second hand on that toyota. So does that mean that you should replace ever component in the car because you don't know the history of it.

I think we'll have to agree to disagree on this subject. I don't know how you could fully substantiate that any second hand vehicle component is a genuine OEM part. If I was purchasing a second hand Toyota, I would be looking for evidence of the previous owners high maintenance standards, to give me a very high degree of confidence that only original parts are fitted. This would include: full main dealer service history, main dealer MOT history, a full log of Toyota service reciepts detailing parts/service items fitted etc.

[KVH]

Signed up just to say thanks for sharing such a useful tip!

Pretty sure I would've been stumped given how well stuck my girlfriends hub was on her Yaris! It really resisted removal even using the technique described here!

Thought I would add a photo of the technique just in case anybody else struggles to grasp it from the wordy description on its own ( I did initially.. but once I'd got the drum off the penny dropped )

Obviously there's only one long M12 bolt shown in the pic, but you want to put two through spaced 180° apart so you can jack the hub out evenly. Once you've got two in place and finger tight, hold the nut behind the front flange with a spanner and give the bolt half a clockwise turn on each side in turn.

Eventually went with quite a bang! Cheers for sharing RS4

- Kev

[t-spiritpete]

All the ideas discussed here are a good solution I agree but once the 4 bolts are removed from the backplate a decent slidehammer attached to the 4 wheel studs would have the hub out in no time at all without any damage to parts. This is a tried and tested method we used in the trade for years to remove halfshafts from say the rear axle on the early Ford Escorts etc and with the right adapter a slide hammer can be used to remove many other parts.

I suppose it's all so easy to say when you actually own a couple of slidehammers like I do ;) .

Regards .... Pete.

[acetip]

All the ideas discussed here are a good solution I agree but once the 4 bolts are removed from the backplate a decent slidehammer attached to the 4 wheel studs would have the hub out in no time at all without any damage to parts. This is a tried and tested method we used in the trade for years to remove halfshafts from say the rear axle on the early Ford Escorts etc and with the right adapter a slide hammer can be used to remove many other parts.

I suppose it's all so easy to say when you actually own a couple of slidehammers like I do ;) .

Regards .... Pete.

Slidehammer? forgot all about them. not many these days would know one if they fell over one.

Thanks for the memory Pete.

Just had a email from Mistermena, he has been very busy again but should be back soon.

[t-spiritpete]

All the ideas discussed here are a good solution I agree but once the 4 bolts are removed from the backplate a decent slidehammer attached to the 4 wheel studs would have the hub out in no time at all without any damage to parts. This is a tried and tested method we used in the trade for years to remove halfshafts from say the rear axle on the early Ford Escorts etc and with the right adapter a slide hammer can be used to remove many other parts.

I suppose it's all so easy to say when you actually own a couple of slidehammers like I do ;) .

Regards .... Pete.

Slidehammer? forgot all about them. not many these days would know one if they fell over one.

Thanks for the memory Pete.

Just had a email from Mistermena, he has been very busy again but should be back soon.

Yes I suppose you are right there, not very popular these days and I wonder how some parts can removed without one ... like halfshafts and bearings etc. I made the one for Fords it is about 3' 6" long with a 3/4" shaft and the slide hammer bit is heavy ... very tasty tool!!

Thanks Peter for the info on Tim, I will contact Power Enhancers right away to inform them that the sales of BG44 should return to normal soon .

Best regards .... Pete.

[RS4]

All the ideas discussed here are a good solution I agree but once the 4 bolts are removed from the backplate a decent slidehammer attached to the 4 wheel studs would have the hub out in no time at all without any damage to parts. This is a tried and tested method we used in the trade for years to remove halfshafts from say the rear axle on the early Ford Escorts etc and with the right adapter a slide hammer can be used to remove many other parts.

I suppose it's all so easy to say when you actually own a couple of slidehammers like I do ;) .

Regards .... Pete.

It's been a number of years since I put up the original post on this matter, but if you read it again you will see I flag up a problem with the back plate of the drum brakes moving out with the hub. My car was a number of years old and the hub was firmly stuck in position, and onto the back plate due to corrosion. Others on the forum have also encountered this problem. If you jack out the hub via two off M12 bolts and nuts (or similar) as per my post, the bolts hold the back plate firmly in place. The method I described prevents the risk not realising the backing plate is moving (e.g when using a hammer etc) and damaging other components. I shared this jacking technique with the wider community as it was very quick, uses commom items we keep in our garages and is unlikey to cause injury to ourselves or damage the car.

[t-spiritpete]

All the ideas discussed here are a good solution I agree but once the 4 bolts are removed from the backplate a decent slidehammer attached to the 4 wheel studs would have the hub out in no time at all without any damage to parts. This is a tried and tested method we used in the trade for years to remove halfshafts from say the rear axle on the early Ford Escorts etc and with the right adapter a slide hammer can be used to remove many other parts.

I suppose it's all so easy to say when you actually own a couple of slidehammers like I do ;) .

Regards .... Pete.

It's been a number of years since I put up the original post on this matter, but if you read it again you will see I flag up a problem with the back plate of the drum brakes moving out with the hub. My car was a number of years old and the hub was firmly stuck in position, and onto the back plate due to corrosion. Others on the forum have also encountered this problem. If you jack out the hub via two off M12 bolts and nuts (or similar) as per my post, the bolts hold the back plate firmly in place. The method I described prevents the risk not realising the backing plate is moving (e.g when using a hammer etc) and damaging other components. I shared this jacking technique with the wider community as it was very quick, uses commom items we keep in our garages and is unlikey to cause injury to ourselves or damage the car.

Good point and taken on board ... always read the detail .

Pete.

[ccvrs]

Just used this method on a Mk2 Yaris, the retaining bolts are inside the backing plate so no external hitting option as per the original post. Worked a treat. 30 minutes a side. Also used 10mm jacking screws to jack the drum off, also a time saver using

the two holes visable once the wheel removed.

Thanks OP

[Stuart Paton]

This is a good tip and it might have been my post that gave you a bit of info about the removal in the first place. But you should have taken my advice on the second hand hubs as I got 2 for 40 sterling instead of £500 and i got the old bolts to go with them so I could hit them as hard as it liked. I fitted one to the wife's yaris and it is working like a dream. I have a second one ready for the next time I need it. I might have a go at the new proceedure if the hub is tight.

For a safety critical component such as a hub assembly, I personally would only ever trust a new OEM (i.e. Toyota) component. I did have a look on eBay and saw some on sale for approximately one hundred pounds each. However, I quickly dismissed any thoughts of purchasing equivalent aftermarket or second hand parts as I would not have had any confidence in their mechanical integrity or strength. The only way to guarantee the parts are built to print, made from the correct materials, manufactured and inspected in accordance with certified quality standards, is to buy the parts from Toyota.

I agree that if i was to buy new i too would only buy from toyota. But the second hand ones i got are off a toyota and are genuine toyota parts. The only difference is that the parts are old. In other words they are the same as your old ones and for that matter if you bought a second hand toyota everthing would be second hand on that toyota. So does that mean that you should replace ever component in the car because you don't know the history of it.

The wheel bearing hub assembly i used were bought new from e-bay for £56.68 , its identical to a Toyota one , all your paying for is the brand name , i have two Yaris's and ive used after market parts on both of them for 5 years and never had a problem , but as they say each to thier own

Cheers

Stuart

[t-spiritpete]

This is a good tip and it might have been my post that gave you a bit of info about the removal in the first place. But you should have taken my advice on the second hand hubs as I got 2 for 40 sterling instead of £500 and i got the old bolts to go with them so I could hit them as hard as it liked. I fitted one to the wife's yaris and it is working like a dream. I have a second one ready for the next time I need it. I might have a go at the new proceedure if the hub is tight.

For a safety critical component such as a hub assembly, I personally would only ever trust a new OEM (i.e. Toyota) component. I did have a look on eBay and saw some on sale for approximately one hundred pounds each. However, I quickly dismissed any thoughts of purchasing equivalent aftermarket or second hand parts as I would not have had any confidence in their mechanical integrity or strength. The only way to guarantee the parts are built to print, made from the correct materials, manufactured and inspected in accordance with certified quality standards, is to buy the parts from Toyota.

I agree that if i was to buy new i too would only buy from toyota. But the second hand ones i got are off a toyota and are genuine toyota parts. The only difference is that the parts are old. In other words they are the same as your old ones and for that matter if you bought a second hand toyota everthing would be second hand on that toyota. So does that mean that you should replace ever component in the car because you don't know the history of it.

The wheel bearing hub assembly i used were bought new from e-bay for £56.68 , its identical to a Toyota one , all your paying for is the brand name , i have two Yaris's and ive used after market parts on both of them for 5 years and never had a problem , but as they say each to thier own

Cheers

Stuart

Even cheaper now Stuart at less than £40 delivered at ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-yaris-VVTI-mk2-06-to-11-rear-wheel-bearing-42450-0D050-/150664463331?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23144d43e3

Pete.