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Bad Shudder Avensis


alexbaird
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hi all .im looking for some advice on a problem with my 2003 avensis d4d t3x.The issue being that when the car reaches around 45mph there is a real bad shudder,shaking that starts and doesnt ease until you reach 70mph ,the shudder doesnt come up through the steering colum however.i was told it could be a tyre balance issue so i took it and had the wheels balanced but that had no effect,the tyre place told me that the alloys were buckled ,so on that advice ive just forked out £400 on a set of new 17" alloys and new tyres,balanced and fitted in the hope that all would be well ..however the !Removed! thing is still shuddering ,The car drives normally until it reaches 45mph after that you would think something gonna drop off with the vibrations .Can anyone lay some light on this as i dont want to throw more money at it without knowing the exact cause of this,thanks in advance all

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Just a little input. Where did you buy your wheels? Are the specifically made for or approved for your car?

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Just a little input. Where did you buy your wheels? Are the specifically made for or approved for your car?

yes the wheels are proper toyota spec

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could be a binding caliper

or

waraped disc

or bent wishbone / tracking rod.

does the vibration happen when you brake.

also try putting in alittle more air.

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Can you feel the shudder through the clutch pedal on your foot?

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A lot of people forget th balance the rear wheels. this can shake the whole car, woese than the steering wheel wobble.

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hi all .im looking for some advice on a problem with my 2003 avensis d4d t3x.The issue being that when the car reaches around 45mph there is a real bad shudder,shaking that starts and doesnt ease until you reach 70mph ,the shudder doesnt come up through the steering colum however.i was told it could be a tyre balance issue so i took it and had the wheels balanced but that had no effect,the tyre place told me that the alloys were buckled ,so on that advice ive just forked out £400 on a set of new 17" alloys and new tyres,balanced and fitted in the hope that all would be well ..however the !Removed! thing is still shuddering ,The car drives normally until it reaches 45mph after that you would think something gonna drop off with the vibrations .Can anyone lay some light on this as i dont want to throw more money at it without knowing the exact cause of this,thanks in advance all

hi mate

what are your observation of the vibration origin?? do you think it is arised from suspension or from engine?

cheers/Igor

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Just saying. I had new wheels purchased, while i was at sea. My sister did the deal and understandebly trusted that the dealer knew what he was selling. Turned out, that the wheels did not have the right distance from eachother. In the beginning i didn't notice anything, but after doing some driving, the car started shaking at certain speeds and under acceleration or deceleration. Went back to get them balanced. Again, no problems at first, then the shaking started again. Then went to buy new tyres and it was then i found out, that the wheels were not made for my particular car.

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i know it sounds like a wheel issue ,however there has been two sets of wheels tried on my car with the outcome still with the shuddering ,1 being the standard rims with the car and the second being brand new rims and tyres fully fitted by magowans.i have had a mechanic check the discs ,bearings and drive shafts etc and can find no faults.Another friend of mine has suggested the flywheel but surely the car would shudder from 0 rpm upwards which it doesnt .and yes i can feel slight vibration through the clutch pedal with the clutch pedal hard to press in ,when over 45 mph i take my foot off the accecelerator pedal the shudder stops,shudder being it feels like the whole front end shuddering so cant particulary say its engine or suspension .i forgot to mension the milage on my car is 114,000

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i know it sounds like a wheel issue ,however there has been two sets of wheels tried on my car with the outcome still with the shuddering ,1 being the standard rims with the car and the second being brand new rims and tyres fully fitted by magowans.i have had a mechanic check the discs ,bearings and drive shafts etc and can find no faults.Another friend of mine has suggested the flywheel but surely the car would shudder from 0 rpm upwards which it doesnt .and yes i can feel slight vibration through the clutch pedal with the clutch pedal hard to press in ,when over 45 mph i take my foot off the accecelerator pedal the shudder stops,shudder being it feels like the whole front end shuddering so cant particulary say its engine or suspension .i forgot to mension the milage on my car is 114,000

As previous replies have said. the rear wheels can badly affect things, but even new tyres can cause shudder if they have a bulge in the wall that shoud have been detected at fitting - run you had across both sidewalls when jacked up, you soon feel a bulge.

Have you tried a different balancing place, had a similar problem, balanced 3 times at the 'regular' tyre place but only sorted after going to another place known to be good at balancing and having a good selection of low value weights available to ensure true balance.

However from you saying it stops when you take you foot off the accel, which with wheel balance problems will also reduce but not totally clear, it sounds more like an engine balance problem - have you checked the engine mounts ? also believe you have a dual mass flywheel where the springs can break, so I'm told, usually just giving a tinkling sound, but perhaps if all have failed it could vibrate badly at certain rpm ?

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...around 45mph there is a real bad shudder,shaking that starts and doesnt ease until you reach 70mph ...

Hi,

You can easily eliminate engine/clutch problems from the equation in a couple of seconds, as follows.

- Find a stretch of road with little traffic, then:

- accelerate up to the the speed where the shuddering is at its worst.

- push the clutch, put the gear in neutral and switch off the ignition (do NOT lock the steering!)

If the problem is engine mechanical related, the shuddering is now gone while still coasting along within the ~ 45 - 70 mph speedband.

If the shuddering remains while the engine is stopped, the problem is wheels- or drive train/suspension related.

Take care.

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...around 45mph there is a real bad shudder,shaking that starts and doesnt ease until you reach 70mph ...

Hi,

You can easily eliminate engine/clutch problems from the equation in a couple of seconds, as follows.

- Find a stretch of road with little traffic, then:

- accelerate up to the the speed where the shuddering is at its worst.

- push the clutch, put the gear in neutral and switch off the ignition (do NOT lock the steering!)

If the problem is engine mechanical related, the shuddering is now gone while still coasting along within the ~ 45 - 70 mph speedband.

If the shuddering remains while the engine is stopped, the problem is wheels- or drive train/suspension related.

Take care.

TAHT SOUNDS LIKE A PLAN ,I WILL TRY THAT AS SOON AS THE MRS BRINGS HER BACK BUT IM 90% SURE THAT THE SHUDDER DISAPERES WHEN THEN CLUTCH IS PUSHED IN AT THAT SPEED ,BUT AS YOU SAY I WILL HAVE TO TURN THE IGNITION OFF TO CHECK ,THANKS THERMAL FOR THE IDEA

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as said i took the car out and accelerated up to 60mph with the shudder there ,then i pushed the clutch in and put her in neutral and the shake dissapeared and turned off engine when at 60mph still no shudder so as said by thermal quote "the issue is not the wheels but the engine " or something mechanical related .i also put my car on a hill and wrenched the handbrake right up i then tried to accelerate off with the car in first gear and the clutch was slipping instead the car should have stalled if the clutch was tight .am i correct in saying this .so im still drawn towards a clutch and flywheel problem

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...THANKS THERMAL FOR THE IDEA...

Glad the old elimination process worked, but actually that's not my idea.

Car mechanics did that ~150 years ago. :)

So, I would say you found the source of the problem.

Clutch or flywheel, and likely both.

Good luck fixing.

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thanks all for the input into my problem especially thermal for the good idea cheers ,have a beer on me ,hopefully that will resolve my problem

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This has helped me too, shame I didn't spot this before I started my own topic. My Avensis 1.8 T-3-S does exactly the same thing between 60 and 70mph. Was a bit annoyed as I just bought it off a dealer, but glad I at least have an idea as to what the problem may be. Hopefully they won't drag their heels when I tell them! p.s. I'd love to hear if the OP does have the car fixed and how it goes, how much it cost etc. Cheers.

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This has helped me too, shame I didn't spot this before I started my own topic. My Avensis 1.8 T-3-S does exactly the same thing between 60 and 70mph. Was a bit annoyed as I just bought it off a dealer, but glad I at least have an idea as to what the problem may be. Hopefully they won't drag their heels when I tell them! p.s. I'd love to hear if the OP does have the car fixed and how it goes, how much it cost etc. Cheers.

im still no further on with the car as ive had it up to the mechanic and he and a vw specialist said its more than likely is the cluch and flywheel but they dont want to commit themselves cause if they put a clutch and flywheel in and the problem is still there especially when the parts alone are gonna cost around £800 then labour after that ,then there gonna look like ******s and im gonna be outa pocket big time .i have spoke to another mechanic who is going to speak to someone inn toyota tomorrow about it ,so i will see what they think and i will let you know

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spoke to a specialist and he reacons that all the evidence does point the the DMF .So it looks like the my wallet is gonna be a lot lighter after this one

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I am not familiar with these engines, but if it has a balance shaft running off the timing belt, it could have been set incorectly when the timing belt was changed

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hi all .im looking for some advice on a problem with my 2003 avensis d4d t3x.The issue being that when the car reaches around 45mph there is a real bad shudder,shaking that starts and doesnt ease until you reach 70mph ,the shudder doesnt come up through the steering colum however.i was told it could be a tyre balance issue so i took it and had the wheels balanced but that had no effect,the tyre place told me that the alloys were buckled ,so on that advice ive just forked out £400 on a set of new 17" alloys and new tyres,balanced and fitted in the hope that all would be well ..however the !Removed! thing is still shuddering ,The car drives normally until it reaches 45mph after that you would think something gonna drop off with the vibrations .Can anyone lay some light on this as i dont want to throw more money at it without knowing the exact cause of this,thanks in advance all

Hi

just bought an avensis verso at an auction 51 reg, bad vibration on dual carrigeway at 50 mph but not round town.

just taken it to local garage, turns out no bushes left in steering rack.toyata want £900 for new rack cuz they dont sell the bushes seperately but i'm going to make them and the garage will fit them.

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  • 1 year later...

spoke to a specialist and he reacons that all the evidence does point the the DMF .So it looks like the my wallet is gonna be a lot lighter after this one

Raising and old topic here but need to know the results.

By DMF did you mean DPF?

SR180, 30300 miles, just serviced and the shuddering has just become really bad. Mechanic said it was the rear tyres, blocks wearing at differant rates! ? ? ?

Any news anyone, PLEASE!!!

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I dont see how this can be a flywheel issue or clutch, The constant revloutions of flywheel in all gears and revs would cause the knocking to be present always. I suggest you do the following,

1 - listen to the engine @ idle - how does it sound.

2 - Does it vibrate or make kocking noises

3 - drive car upto speed, ie 70 leave engine running and dip the clutch.

4 - is the noise or vibration still occur.

If Yes, you need to look at suspenion parts and drivetrain

If No, you need to

1 - get the gearbox checked - (maybe main shaft is damaged)

2 - flywheel, clutch...

DPF = Diesel Particulate Filter

DMF = Dual Mass Flywheel.

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