The Saga Continues.....

[CycleSi]

..... of the auto gearbox/new ECU/flat Battery, etc.

So, we replaced the ECU and the gearbox is fine & the engine starts and runs as well as ever.

We have now discovered that there is a drain on the Battery of 1.6 amps and this goes when EFI1 20 amp fuse is removed and then refitted. We can hear a slight buzzing noise with the engine turned off which is the drain. This also is affecting the immobiliser and irregular flashing small red light on the dashboard. We don't know why though.

We must have fitted the ECU correctly and done the Key Initialisation Sequence correctly in order for the engine to start.

Maybe it is a software issue?

Any thoughts on why suddenly we have a Battery drain and which is linked to the immobiliser/small red light?

[bitman]

just guessing, wrong ecu for the type of vehicle? or create some kind of short circuit, may be a cable between some thing what is making contact with the car body?

[CycleSi]

just guessing, wrong ecu for the type of vehicle? or create some kind of short circuit, may be a cable between some thing what is making contact with the car body?

Pretty certain it's the correct one judging by the codes.

Bit stuck really?

[anchorman]

Be sure to leave the car for two or three minutes before doing the discharge test as some of the electronics need time to power down. I don't know if you can read a wiring diagram but the one for the immobiliser and the A/T ECT are attached.

1AZ FE wiring - immobiliser.pdf

1AZ FE ECT.pdf

[CycleSi]

Thanks - l'll print the PDF's off and show them to my mechanic.

[CycleSi]

We now think the problems might be caused by the "Key Initialisation Sequence" being incorrect.

This is because it talks about 3 keys but we only have 2. Therefore when we came to do the second part of the sequence whereas we thought we were using Key One again the ECU thought it was Key Three.

Does anyone know how we can clear this and start again bearing in mind we only have 2 keys, not 3.

lf you can understand this you're a cleverer man than me !!!

[CycleSi]

We've got hold of a copy of a Toyota Service Bulletin BE-4014 - Engine Immobiliser System Overview.

Firstly, how do you tell what is the 'Master' key and what is a 'Sub' key? We assume a Master key is the Black one with the 2 buttons to 'lock' and 'unlock' whereas a Sub key is just a Grey key with no buttons?

With no key in the ignition it flashes as per normal - i.e. a single flash with a 2 second gap.

However, with the key inserted in the ignition we have the flash code 2-2 as per the bulletin which is described as 'trying to re-register an already registered key' and this happens with both the keys l have.

The bulletin states the key code erasure sequence but you need the "hand held tester" to perform. Does anyone know if this can be done without going to a Main Dealer?

We want to eliminate the key code sequence to see if the Battery drain is a consequence of this.

Would disconnecting the Battery and/or ECU allow us to start again and redo the key sequence? lf so, how long should we disconnect them for?

[bitman]

Firstly, how do you tell what is the 'Master' key and what is a 'Sub' key? We assume a Master key is the Black one with the 2 buttons to 'lock' and 'unlock' whereas a Sub key is just a Grey key with no buttons?

correct, new of factory they come with 2 masters and 1 sub key plus a small metal plate with a 4 digit key code on it

[CycleSi]

Yippee - sorted !!!

It turns out we hadn't done the Key Initialisation Sequence properly as I only had two keys and therefore the ECU hadn't recognised that so the sequence had to be ended.

Turns out the way to do it was to turn on the ignition and pump the brake pedal five times within fifteeen seconds.

Amazingly, it worked.

Thank you all for your help and advice with this.....