Lack Of Power

[boilerman]

I need help please. I have an 2003 Rav4 D4D with 64k miles. When starting from cold, engine takes about half a minute before it will start. Then when driving I have about half the power of normal. This will last for about half an hour of driving then all will come good, until the next time it starts from cold.The engine light also comes on most times, but once it is running OK this goes out. It is not the glow plugs and I have not paid for the codes to be read yet, as Toyota want £100 to Analise the problem. Tick over is OK once started cold or hot.

Mike

[anchorman]

Hi Mike

If your RAV has round fog lights, buy a U480 code reader off eBay (about £25) and read the code. If not you can get the code by getting the ECU to flash it back at you as in section 2 here;

DTC read 0004.pdf

You just put a piece of wire between terminals 4 and 13 in the plug which is just by the bonnet pull.

Get the code and come back but in the meantime change the fuel filter and take that out of the equation.

[boilerman]

Hi anchorman.

Mines the model with fog and spotlight combination on the front if that helps, I'll change the fuel filter, as its never been done, and I tried a bit of WD40 in that VSV valve you mentioned in another post.

Mike

[anchorman]

Hi anchorman.

Mines the model with fog and spotlight combination on the front if that helps, I'll change the fuel filter, as its never been done, and I tried a bit of WD40 in that VSV valve you mentioned in another post.

Mike

Look at the models in the pinned section above. If it has round foglights you can read a 4 digit code with the U480 reader. If it has oblong foglights it isn't compatible so the only options are the Toyota dealer, an indie with some good kit or the flash codes which you can do yourself.

The codes don't always come up with the goods but they might point us in the right direction. There is some guidance on changing the fuel filter in the pinned section above.

[boilerman]

Thanks Anchorman

OK, I can put the wire in the connections as you say, but where do I read the 'flashes' ??

Mike

[anchorman]

Thanks Anchorman

OK, I can put the wire in the connections as you say, but where do I read the 'flashes' ??

Mike

Look at the pdf to see how to read them but it is the little orange engine symbol on the dash - the one that stays on when it has a problem.

[boilerman]

Thanks again Anchorman

I checked the codes, and they are doing the 'normal' flash, as in the diagram, but this is when I just returned from a short journey with no problem. do I need to wait until I get the engine warning light on again when its cold in the morning, or should the past problems be displayed no matter what ?

Mike

[pmb]

I need help please. I have an 2003 Rav4 D4D with 64k miles. When starting from cold, engine takes about half a minute before it will start. Then when driving I have about half the power of normal. This will last for about half an hour of driving then all will come good, until the next time it starts from cold.The engine light also comes on most times, but once it is running OK this goes out. It is not the glow plugs and I have not paid for the codes to be read yet, as Toyota want £100 to Analise the problem. Tick over is OK once started cold or hot.

Mike

You don't say where you are but if you look in the general discussions there is a list of members who will read codes for you foc (I must add myself to that list)

[anchorman]

It should have stored the codes. It won't flash at all if there is no codes so what exactly did it do?

[boilerman]

Hi Guys

It did the 'normal' flash, on/off every .25 of a second, just like in the diagram in your attachment.

pmb, I also live in Huddersfield, near Fixby.

Just been on a round trip to Manchester from Huddersfield. Set off cold with a bad start and engine light on, half power for about a mile then it picked up after a few 'surges', this lasted for only a minute or so then with a warm engine no problem all the way there and back. Engine light stayed on all the way there until I stopped. Then on restart in Manchester, (still warm engine) it went out, with no other problem all the way home.

But I know for sure it will start again in the morning when cold.

Mike

[anchorman]

Try reading the flashes during the time the light is on.

[boilerman]

Mmmm, i'll read them alright, were's my sledge hammer !! !Removed! thing.

[boilerman]

Hi

I am still having trouble, still get 'normal' from the codes, engine light on or off. Still no power for half an hour driving or so. It feels like its running without the Turbo, could that be it ? then as it gets warm something Free's off.

if it was the diesel filter surely it would be sluggish all the time.

Mike

[anchorman]

Hi

I am still having trouble, still get 'normal' from the codes, engine light on or off. Still no power for half an hour driving or so. It feels like its running without the Turbo, could that be it ? then as it gets warm something Free's off.

if it was the diesel filter surely it would be sluggish all the time.

Mike

Just try pumping that black plunger on top of the filter in the morning. It should go stiff within a couple of pumps, if it doesn't, air is getting in somewhere.

[boilerman]

Hi Anchorman,

Funny you should say that, I tried that before I started up this morning, No difference, still half a dozen turns before it started, then engine light on. But tick over is perfect, but still no power.

mike

[anchorman]

Have you read the pinned article on SCVs? You really need that fault code or just start stabbing in the dark.

[boilerman]

Hi Anchorman.

Sent off for my code reader, does it matter when you check the code, when car is struggling with light on , or when it is running OK, I assume the last fault code will be stored no matter what. Does engine need to be running ? Or just ignition on.

Mike

[anchorman]

The problem is that the pre-round fog light versions aren't compatible and the way I understand it you cannot retrieve any flash codes?

The code will be stored and by all means try to check it. You plug the reader in then switch on the ignition and scroll after it has read the protocol. My worry is that it will fail to connect. In that case you will have to go to "somebody" or Toyota with more sophisticated kit.

Have a think how you want to proceed.

[boilerman]

Hi Anchorman

Now you tell me, just got my reader this morning and it won't work !! 'Link error'

FOR SALE

Brand new U480 Memo scanner, only used once

Mike

[anchorman]

Hi Anchorman

Now you tell me, just got my reader this morning and it won't work !! 'Link error'

FOR SALE

Brand new U480 Memo scanner, only used once

Mike

I told you in the first reply. Read the second post.

Without rubbing salt in your wounds, if everybody filled in their profile fully we would know exactly what model we were dealing with.

Your code reader will fit your next RAV so hang on to it.

[boilerman]

Update :

Spent most of the week with bad starting when cold, then half power rest of the time, engine light came on now and again. Yesterday morning I pumped the piston on top of the fuel pump (well i think its a fuel pump) for quite a few pumps before I felt a bit more resistance. Car started OK and full power restored. Started OK also this morning, I cnt understand why that should solve my problem as this is just to prime out the air when you take it off or change the filter isn't it ?

Anyway I've got a new fuel filter to fit, but feel a bit reluctant to change it as its running well now.

[anchorman]

It is possisble for the fuel to run back to the tank when the engine is stood and all you have done is prime it back to the engine. There is a valve in the filter head (you are priming the filter there not the fuel pump) which may have been sticking. Leave it for now and if it plays up, try priming it again. You might then cure it with the filter but it may need a new filter head.

[boilerman]

Thanks anchorman you have been a great help. It is defiantly fuel problem. Went out this morning with half power and light on, stopped and pumped the filter primer (it was slack) about 6 pumps before it came firm, got back in and all OK again for rest of day.

I am going to strip it down and replace the filter, but could there be a load of crap around the fuel pump in the tank ? is it worth having a look at that?

Mike

Update

Replaced the filter and had a look at the non-return valve, looks like quite a simple device that opens with ignition 'on' and closes with ignition 'off' to prevent the fuel draining back into tank. If this was my problem, then why lack of power when it is open and car running ? Is it more likely to be pump not providing enough pressure to filter ?

[jps71]

My 2001 rav4 d4d did very similiar this morning.

It had been stood for a couple of days it started fine but I got a couple of hundred yards down the road then I had a loss of power and the engine warning light came on.

I got home and looked through the site and found this thread.

I pumped the filter primer about 10 times and the engine than started and ran fine but with the warning light staying on.

I did a round trip of about 14 miles everything appears ok apart from the light being on.

I stopped and started a couple of time with the light staying on.

Then it started and the light stayed out.

Did you ever find out what was the cause of your problem and did you manage to rectify it.

Cheers Jim

[anchorman]

Have the filter changed Jim. It may well have been starved of fuel.