Ignition Coils + Spark Plugs + Maf - Problems / Questions

June 3, 2010

Hello to all - great forum.

This is my first post here, I have a 2000 Celica GT. (not GT-S).

The car has around 125K, bought it used, I didnt check the record /CarFax to see how many owners were before, this is my 2nd car I owned and its the first that I have picked as what I flavored - also this is the first car I started getting more involved in troubleshooting problems on my own.

The problem started this summer, I'm located in NYC and there were a couple of days when in the begging it was hot, had some jobs and as I was driving around on highways mostly coming to a ramp and getting ready to accelerate to get into the flow I noticed that it was just way too slow then ever, my foot was all the way down on the paddle and it was still running like a turtle, that's when the CEL engine light cam on. So worried about that I went straight to a mechanic in my neighborhood and had it checked throw the computer. He told me it was misfiring, so he showed me how bad my sparks were and had them replaced, now he replaced them with same brand that were inside before installed (I guess whatever the former owner installed) that is "ngk r bkr5e 11", I know now that dose are not what the manual recommended out of the 2 listed in it. So he erase my CEL and I was on my way happy, thinking that I'm back with more power, also recall having my OCV replaced, also he did some sloppy cleaning of "Idle air control valve".

After a couple of days or so my CEL came back on, so I went back, the guy was busy, he checked it quick throw the computer and he said that one of the Coils might be the problem on Cylinder #1, he told me to come later and he will try to troubleshoot it for me, already paid him $100 for the simple spark plugs "tune up" - I was a bit skeptic that I might be coming over and over again with more things to fix, so I decide to order myself a USB adapter to PC and used the software that came with to check for myself.

I also ordered one Ignition Coil of eBay and replaced the first coil in the #1 Cylinder, seen it how it was done It was a breeze for me.

Replaced the coil, check the computer, at the time was still researching the net for answers, one code that always came up and its still coming up its P0171 (MAF) - lean. So my research lead me to MAF needed cleaning, done that, reset the CEL, it worked fine for a couple of days again - noticed that the CEL came up when I was at high altitude, as I was accelerating on a steep ramp to get onto upper level of Queen Bridge.

So what I did is cleaned the MAF every once in a while again and again to see if that would fix my problem, but no - I was still running lean. Recalling that people were saying because of the too much oil on the K & N filter, well even after washing the filter and putting less oil, and cleaning with MAF spray the MAF sensor still I had the CEL on, lean problem.

I even had one of my O2 replaced in Bank 1, if I recall correct its the upload before the catalytic converter, that didn't help since I came to conclusion that the sensor was just helping me.

So reading the 2 top celica forums I decided to follow instruction to clean my " Idle air control valve", took it all apart nicely, cleaned it with throttle juice, hooked it up back, it was late night and had it start up, as usual it take a couple of cranks, then drove it off, the air outside was cool, it ran **** amazingly in the cool air. Then the next day in the sun, not at all close to the night. So it seems that its running great during the night, fine but, I can't tell if its heating up or because the coolant temperature on the gauge its always in the middle.

The CEL comes back on so I decide to get myself a MULTIMETER and the the ohm's on the Injector Coils.

So I took all the Injector coils out and tested the Primary Resistance and Secondary Resistance (OHMS).

From the left to the right I tested the poles. [ - - - - ]

[ 1 2 3 4 ] Poles numbered. Using my Digital Multimeter, this is the table in reading it gave. I also switched the probes around to be sure its not giving different reading. Exp. Red to 1 and Black to 2, Black to 1 and Red to 2.

Starting with the NEW COIL = NC and ending with Original Coil #4. =OC4

Meter was set to 20K OHM

================================================== ======

NC Primary Resistance = Red/Pin1 + Black/Pin2 = 0.48 ohm, switched around probes got the same 0.48 ohm reading.

NC Secondary Resistance = Red/Pin2 + Black/Pin4 = 10.28 ohm, switched around probes got close to first that is 10.69 ohm reading.

Now comparing the NEW Coil to the once installed in my car its absolute different, especially in Secondary part Resistance.

OC #1 = Red/Pin1+Black/Pin2=0.34 ohm, switched around probes got the same 0.34 ohm reading. FOR ALL 4 Coils in the Primary Resistance.

Now the problem and would like to find out how big is, is in the Secondary Resistance, starting with Original Coil #1.

OC #1 = Red/Pin2+Black/Pin4 = 7.76 ohm, revers probes give me 14.90 ohm.

OC #2 = Red/Pin2+Black/Pin4 = 7.82 ohm, revers probes give me 14.88 ohm.

OC #3 = Red/Pin2+Black/Pin4 = 7.63 ohm, revers probes give me 14.93 ohm.

OC #4 = Red/Pin2+Black/Pin4 = 8.22 ohm, revers probes give me 15.73 ohm.

Now I can tell that Coil #4 has different values, but how about the rest? Where should a Celica Coil specs be in the rage? Anyone of you would like to test your Coils and compare it with my or where can I look up to see what is the right coil for my celica.

I also ordered a new MAF of eBay so I'm going to start with MAF and get to coils, replacing them all to mach the New Coil I have, just wondering if my NEW coil specs are the right specs for my Celica.

Also are my spark plugs ok as brand model # or should I also replace them too even thou they are a couple of months old.

I have more question soon to write about the aftermarket CAI that it was installed in my Celica by the former owner. Some question like why is the black electrical plug to the vacuum-switching valve the one needed? and not the BLUE electric (5v I guess) plug not used? I have switched them and they can both fit in the vacuum witching valve and to me the only one that seems to do something is the BLUE, the blue activates the Vacuum valve and it starts sucking, to me its logic that it sucks from the canister the gasses into the engine, or is my Black suppose to do the same but its death.

Soon I'm going to have photos of what I'm talking, most of you that have it already CAI installed (injen kit) know what I'm taking about. Reading all about the CAI Injen installation on the other forum it dont say clear why the BLUE electric plug is not used or if its the same as the black.

I'm also thinking of having radiator flush soon. Will also try to see if I have air in the coolant. Also I have questions about the lift, and if my 2000 GT dose have it, because I have pushed it to 6-6.5K RPM but it wont go in the red zone it would just switch to the next gear, maybe because I'm a noob to such its not clear to me.

Thx to dose that can help and I hope this long page will help others, I would just hate not being able to fix the problem on this beauty on my own.

June 8, 2010

Nothing? No Help? LOL!

June 8, 2010

Hi only engines with VVTL-i have "lift" which is Toyotas competitor to Honda's VTEC. It kicks in at 6200RPM when the engine is warm and the oil pressure is high enough.

I am not too sure about the engine problems though, I think that it is more likely to be the catalytic converter and the injector. They should all be about the same in resistance. ;)