Does Anyone Out There Know Which Sensor It Is?

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

HI...Im trying once more...re my 2001 avensis hatch 1.8 vvti SR 86500miles

Does anyone know exactly which sensor i need to replace...diagnostic fault code...p0155 heater circuit bank 2 sensor 1

even my local toyota dealers themselves are unsure...god help me!

Sam

[toyotaavensis]

hi,

This code refers to the front oxygen sensor on Bank 2. The heated circuit in the oxygen sensor decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECU tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. if the ECU determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time has elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set code P0155.

toyota mechanics should no this, its mechanical 101

most probably loose wiring, or an internal short, i think you are probably going to have to buy a new 02 sensor at a cost of £66.00

from www.eurocarparts.com, its easy to fit 20 mins maximum, hope this helps.

mark.

[in_the_no]

HI...Im trying once more...re my 2001 avensis hatch 1.8 vvti SR 86500miles

Does anyone know exactly which sensor i need to replace...diagnostic fault code...p0155 heater circuit bank 2 sensor 1

even my local toyota dealers themselves are unsure...god help me!

Sam

pm sent

[richard.c]

HI...Im trying once more...re my 2001 avensis hatch 1.8 vvti SR 86500miles

Does anyone know exactly which sensor i need to replace...diagnostic fault code...p0155 heater circuit bank 2 sensor 1

even my local toyota dealers themselves are unsure...god help me!

Sam

Hi Sam,

Wasn't my second reply to your same post/ question the other day of any use ..??

My link

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

HI...Im trying once more...re my 2001 avensis hatch 1.8 vvti SR 86500miles

Does anyone know exactly which sensor i need to replace...diagnostic fault code...p0155 heater circuit bank 2 sensor 1

even my local toyota dealers themselves are unsure...god help me!

Sam

Hi Sam,

Wasn't my second reply to your same post/ question the other day of any use ..??

My link

HI RICH...Your advice was excellent...but...i cant risk removing each sensor just to test them because its a nightmare to take off and a high chance your gonna break them! I did try with one and it was very tight so didnt chance it incase it broke and it wasnt the faulty one!

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

hi,

This code refers to the front oxygen sensor on Bank 2. The heated circuit in the oxygen sensor decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECU tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. if the ECU determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time has elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set code P0155.

toyota mechanics should no this, its mechanical 101

most probably loose wiring, or an internal short, i think you are probably going to have to buy a new 02 sensor at a cost of £66.00

from www.eurocarparts.com, its easy to fit 20 mins maximum, hope this helps.

mark.

Thanks Mark...now i understand the technical side of things...but it still doesnt answer which sensor bank 2 sensor 1 is??? So when i go to euro caraprts what do i say to them/ask them for?

[richard.c]

Hi Sam,

Wasn't my second reply to your same post/ question the other day of any use ..??

My link

HI RICH...Your advice was excellent...but...i cant risk removing each sensor just to test them because its a nightmare to take off and a high chance your gonna break them! I did try with one and it was very tight so didnt chance it incase it broke and it wasnt the faulty one!

Hi again Sam.

Well afraid I'm a bit lost with your reply - those diagrams show the location and bank / number of each sensor - thought thats what you needed ?

The 2002 diagrams I attached may be the same engine as your model but if not you can go to that link and retrieve similar diagrams for your engine.

[toyotaavensis]

hi sam,

ive done a bit of research about this 02 sensor and going by the toyota workshop manuals it should be the sensor on the manifold at the rear of the engine, sorry i cant get a part number for you, but atleast you can show a mechanic and ask them spec's,

there are many different names for these sensors ie: 02 sensor, oxygen sensor, lambda sensor, 99% of mechanics will no exactly what this is.

hope this helps.

mark.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

hi sam,

ive done a bit of research about this 02 sensor and going by the toyota workshop manuals it should be the sensor on the manifold at the rear of the engine, sorry i cant get a part number for you, but atleast you can show a mechanic and ask them spec's,

there are many different names for these sensors ie: 02 sensor, oxygen sensor, lambda sensor, 99% of mechanics will no exactly what this is.

hope this helps.

mark.

Thank you again Mark...your right...it is one of the sensors on the manifold at the rear of the engine bay...im kinda getting closer to finding out if its the one to the right or left now!!! wish me luck hey

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hi Sam,

Wasn't my second reply to your same post/ question the other day of any use ..??

My link

HI RICH...Your advice was excellent...but...i cant risk removing each sensor just to test them because its a nightmare to take off and a high chance your gonna break them! I did try with one and it was very tight so didnt chance it incase it broke and it wasnt the faulty one!

Hi again Sam.

Well afraid I'm a bit lost with your reply - those diagrams show the location and bank / number of each sensor - thought thats what you needed ?

The 2002 diagrams I attached may be the same engine as your model but if not you can go to that link and retrieve similar diagrams for your engine.

So sorry Rich...didn't even see the file you attatched re the diagrams...excellent mate...only problem is this...i went back to Toyota again today...this time i met a more helpful chap...he actually printed me out a diagram of my engine and circled the sensor i need(wish i had a scanner to scan it up on here!)anyway he said "bank 2 sensor 1" is the one to the right side on the manifold at the rear of the engine (you could say passenger side!)...now your diagram showing the 1zzfe engine...only talks about one sensor "bank 1 sensor 1" which is also on the right hand side when looking into the engine bay...its labelled H7 if you have a look at it. So now im thinking do i gamble or not??? Wont blame you if you lose interest re this problem...im giving up too matey! Thanks again

[richard.c]

Hi Sam,

Well those diagrams, found elsewhere on this forum, were listed as the 2002 model so have not got a clue if they are valid for your 2001 model.

If the Toyota guy has given you a printout that matches your engine layout then you will have to take that as correct - short of giving it to them to do you have no choice.

First, locate the part, and with a torch and magnifier read off all and any markings, some are often printed on the metal body and you really need to look hard - if you try taking it off and it breaks you could loose these code.

Second, get a few quotes for the right part now you have these codes.

Once you have the new sensor, carefully apply wd40 or similar to the bad sensors thread when the engine is warm and later when cold - give it a day or so to really get in.

Use the correct spanner and keep it square with the nut on the sensor - once out, keep it clean, dry and safe - do not throw it away or try cleaning it etc. you might have to put it back !

Fit the new sensor and hopefully thats one more problem solved - you may need to clear the ecu code log.

good luck

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hi Sam,

Well those diagrams, found elsewhere on this forum, were listed as the 2002 model so have not got a clue if they are valid for your 2001 model.

If the Toyota guy has given you a printout that matches your engine layout then you will have to take that as correct - short of giving it to them to do you have no choice.

First, locate the part, and with a torch and magnifier read off all and any markings, some are often printed on the metal body and you really need to look hard - if you try taking it off and it breaks you could loose these code.

Second, get a few quotes for the right part now you have these codes.

Once you have the new sensor, carefully apply wd40 or similar to the bad sensors thread when the engine is warm and later when cold - give it a day or so to really get in.

Use the correct spanner and keep it square with the nut on the sensor - once out, keep it clean, dry and safe - do not throw it away or try cleaning it etc. you might have to put it back !

Fit the new sensor and hopefully thats one more problem solved - you may need to clear the ecu code log.

good luck

Thank you Richard...I shall do as you have advised...i'll need more than good luck mate...hope i can trust the advice of my toyota dealer...have you read that recent post on here re.some guy having a problem with his sensor on a toyota rav? Someone advised him the incorrect sensor and he's lost £190...thats a nightmare...poor bloke...anyway i'll let you know how it goes! regards...Sammy

[richard.c]

Thank you Richard...I shall do as you have advised...i'll need more than good luck mate...hope i can trust the advice of my toyota dealer...have you read that recent post on here re.some guy having a problem with his sensor on a toyota rav? Someone advised him the incorrect sensor and he's lost £190...thats a nightmare...poor bloke...anyway i'll let you know how it goes! regards...Sammy

Hi,

If you don't believe him then you cannot believe anyone - so you must get it in hardcopy yourself to be sure.

You might be better following that link and paying £3 and retrieve your engine layout from toyotas files if you feel that guy gave you the wrong info - does the diagram he printed actually identify the sensor in question or did he mark it on the paper ? - if he did then you need to get the info yourself to be sure.

Your sensor problem is internmittant I think with the check light going on and off - correct ? - the sensor has two parts, the heater which either works or not - if is duff then the check light stays on all the time, this is not your problem so testing it will be useless.

The sensor part actually sends out pulses and needs an oscilloscope to see it properly - so again quiet pointless trying to check it.

The ERG value is not used on petrol engines as far as I know.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Thank you Richard...I shall do as you have advised...i'll need more than good luck mate...hope i can trust the advice of my toyota dealer...have you read that recent post on here re.some guy having a problem with his sensor on a toyota rav? Someone advised him the incorrect sensor and he's lost £190...thats a nightmare...poor bloke...anyway i'll let you know how it goes! regards...Sammy

Hi,

If you don't believe him then you cannot believe anyone - so you must get it in hardcopy yourself to be sure.

You might be better following that link and paying £3 and retrieve your engine layout from toyotas files if you feel that guy gave you the wrong info - does the diagram he printed actually identify the sensor in question or did he mark it on the paper ? - if he did then you need to get the info yourself to be sure.

Your sensor problem is internmittant I think with the check light going on and off - correct ? - the sensor has two parts, the heater which either works or not - if is duff then the check light stays on all the time, this is not your problem so testing it will be useless.

The sensor part actually sends out pulses and needs an oscilloscope to see it properly - so again quiet pointless trying to check it.

The ERG value is not used on petrol engines as far as I know.

Hi there...some might think im sad but i actually look forward to this time in my day whn i get the chance to read yours/others responses so thank you!!! Anyways...yup the Toyota man actually printed my engine off (its like a 3d sort of print) and then checked something on his computer and came back and circled the sensor on the right side of the manifold and said..."thats bank 2 sensor 1 my friend and its £149.00 + vat"...and i said thank you and i'll get back to you! He seemed certain that was the one and i asked him 3 times if he was def.sure and he said yes!

And your right...it is a internmittant problem...actually it only ever comes on if iv'e been driving for say more than 10 minutes non stop...if i just drive to work and back (2 miles either way lol) its never a problem ie it never comes on...even when i go shopping locally ie starting and stopping its fine...but when i decide to go for a longer drive say to the cemetery to visit my recently deceased father in law 6 miles away...boom...it comes on on the way there!!! Its so frustrating! So i'll get it sorted.

To be honest this is just 1 of my main problems...the other is i recently replaced my long drive belt because it was squealing...and it still does...even worse now...i think its that small shock absorber looking thing on the tensioner...may be the springs gone inside it...who knows....

my other problem is the gears...seem to be getting stiffer by the day even though i changed my gearbox oil a few months back...

my other problem is a knocking sound when turning right...must be the cv joint

and finally the ignition switch needs replacing as each morning and afternoon it hesitates to start unless i turn the key hard all the way round! Heard this is a common fault.

So i'll be glad to see the back of it after iv'e sold it...IF i find a buyer...but i must say it is in beautiful condition and sporty...like the saying going...it looks like sheep in lambs wool...have i got that right...i'll stick to...you cant tell a book by its cover...lol!!! Thanks for listening...and takecare.

Regards...Sammy

p/s...if i was a qualified mechanic and could repair these things myself...i'd be laughing at these problems!

[richard.c]

Thank you Richard...I shall do as you have advised...i'll need more than good luck mate...hope i can trust the advice of my toyota dealer...have you read that recent post on here re.some guy having a problem with his sensor on a toyota rav? Someone advised him the incorrect sensor and he's lost £190...thats a nightmare...poor bloke...anyway i'll let you know how it goes! regards...Sammy

Hi,

If you don't believe him then you cannot believe anyone - so you must get it in hardcopy yourself to be sure.

You might be better following that link and paying £3 and retrieve your engine layout from toyotas files if you feel that guy gave you the wrong info - does the diagram he printed actually identify the sensor in question or did he mark it on the paper ? - if he did then you need to get the info yourself to be sure.

Your sensor problem is internmittant I think with the check light going on and off - correct ? - the sensor has two parts, the heater which either works or not - if is duff then the check light stays on all the time, this is not your problem so testing it will be useless.

The sensor part actually sends out pulses and needs an oscilloscope to see it properly - so again quiet pointless trying to check it.

The ERG value is not used on petrol engines as far as I know.

Hi there...some might think im sad but i actually look forward to this time in my day whn i get the chance to read yours/others responses so thank you!!! Anyways...yup the Toyota man actually printed my engine off (its like a 3d sort of print) and then checked something on his computer and came back and circled the sensor on the right side of the manifold and said..."thats bank 2 sensor 1 my friend and its £149.00 + vat"...and i said thank you and i'll get back to you! He seemed certain that was the one and i asked him 3 times if he was def.sure and he said yes!

And your right...it is a internmittant problem...actually it only ever comes on if iv'e been driving for say more than 10 minutes non stop...if i just drive to work and back (2 miles either way lol) its never a problem ie it never comes on...even when i go shopping locally ie starting and stopping its fine...but when i decide to go for a longer drive say to the cemetery to visit my recently deceased father in law 6 miles away...boom...it comes on on the way there!!! Its so frustrating! So i'll get it sorted.

To be honest this is just 1 of my main problems...the other is i recently replaced my long drive belt because it was squealing...and it still does...even worse now...i think its that small shock absorber looking thing on the tensioner...may be the springs gone inside it...who knows....

my other problem is the gears...seem to be getting stiffer by the day even though i changed my gearbox oil a few months back...

my other problem is a knocking sound when turning right...must be the cv joint

and finally the ignition switch needs replacing as each morning and afternoon it hesitates to start unless i turn the key hard all the way round! Heard this is a common fault.

So i'll be glad to see the back of it after iv'e sold it...IF i find a buyer...but i must say it is in beautiful condition and sporty...like the saying going...it looks like sheep in lambs wool...have i got that right...i'll stick to...you cant tell a book by its cover...lol!!! Thanks for listening...and takecare.

Regards...Sammy

p/s...if i was a qualified mechanic and could repair these things myself...i'd be laughing at these problems!

Hi,

Well think you have got to take stock of things and say what is worth spending money on ..?

How much were you hoping to sell the car for - mines W reg and 150k yet a trade in value at Toyota is just £450 ! ( not against a new car)

Think a lot of folk expect you can get £1k to £2k for 10 year old car - wish I could get that kind of money for mine.

Also when is its Mot due, with your low fuel consumption I would wonder how it would do in the Emissions test - the oxygen sensor my not be the only fault in that system .

Without a Mot who will look at it ? but if it costs so much to correct all the problems to get it past the Mot - might be better selling it now, as is.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Thank you Richard...I shall do as you have advised...i'll need more than good luck mate...hope i can trust the advice of my toyota dealer...have you read that recent post on here re.some guy having a problem with his sensor on a toyota rav? Someone advised him the incorrect sensor and he's lost £190...thats a nightmare...poor bloke...anyway i'll let you know how it goes! regards...Sammy

Hi,

If you don't believe him then you cannot believe anyone - so you must get it in hardcopy yourself to be sure.

You might be better following that link and paying £3 and retrieve your engine layout from toyotas files if you feel that guy gave you the wrong info - does the diagram he printed actually identify the sensor in question or did he mark it on the paper ? - if he did then you need to get the info yourself to be sure.

Your sensor problem is internmittant I think with the check light going on and off - correct ? - the sensor has two parts, the heater which either works or not - if is duff then the check light stays on all the time, this is not your problem so testing it will be useless.

The sensor part actually sends out pulses and needs an oscilloscope to see it properly - so again quiet pointless trying to check it.

The ERG value is not used on petrol engines as far as I know.

Hi there...some might think im sad but i actually look forward to this time in my day whn i get the chance to read yours/others responses so thank you!!! Anyways...yup the Toyota man actually printed my engine off (its like a 3d sort of print) and then checked something on his computer and came back and circled the sensor on the right side of the manifold and said..."thats bank 2 sensor 1 my friend and its £149.00 + vat"...and i said thank you and i'll get back to you! He seemed certain that was the one and i asked him 3 times if he was def.sure and he said yes!

And your right...it is a internmittant problem...actually it only ever comes on if iv'e been driving for say more than 10 minutes non stop...if i just drive to work and back (2 miles either way lol) its never a problem ie it never comes on...even when i go shopping locally ie starting and stopping its fine...but when i decide to go for a longer drive say to the cemetery to visit my recently deceased father in law 6 miles away...boom...it comes on on the way there!!! Its so frustrating! So i'll get it sorted.

To be honest this is just 1 of my main problems...the other is i recently replaced my long drive belt because it was squealing...and it still does...even worse now...i think its that small shock absorber looking thing on the tensioner...may be the springs gone inside it...who knows....

my other problem is the gears...seem to be getting stiffer by the day even though i changed my gearbox oil a few months back...

my other problem is a knocking sound when turning right...must be the cv joint

and finally the ignition switch needs replacing as each morning and afternoon it hesitates to start unless i turn the key hard all the way round! Heard this is a common fault.

So i'll be glad to see the back of it after iv'e sold it...IF i find a buyer...but i must say it is in beautiful condition and sporty...like the saying going...it looks like sheep in lambs wool...have i got that right...i'll stick to...you cant tell a book by its cover...lol!!! Thanks for listening...and takecare.

Regards...Sammy

p/s...if i was a qualified mechanic and could repair these things myself...i'd be laughing at these problems!

Hi,

Well think you have got to take stock of things and say what is worth spending money on ..?

How much were you hoping to sell the car for - mines W reg and 150k yet a trade in value at Toyota is just £450 ! ( not against a new car)

Think a lot of folk expect you can get £1k to £2k for 10 year old car - wish I could get that kind of money for mine.

Also when is its Mot due, with your low fuel consumption I would wonder how it would do in the Emissions test - the oxygen sensor my not be the only fault in that system .

Without a Mot who will look at it ? but if it costs so much to correct all the problems to get it past the Mot - might be better selling it now, as is.

Hi Rich

All true say mate...if i sell i'm hoping to get around £1750 because it really is in excellent condition...already asked my dealers...said by just looking at it im looking at £1000...i hope i'll get more private...they sell for more than what i want on autotrader!

mot's due on 11/08/10...not long to go hey...im just gona hope for the best...i'll pour in a bottle of cataclean...wash n wax my car...and keep my fingers damn crossed lol!

Re the sensor...rand euro carparts today...was hoping to pick it up...but they didn't have it instock and asked me to callback midweek...so i just washed my car today...and oh yes i sprayed some belt slip that i bought onto my drive belt...hope it solves the whining problem FOR A WHILE!

Finally i'd love to sell now but my insurance only ends in Jan 2011 so it'll mean i'll have to go out and buy something quickly to transfer it on to...life and decisions hey!!!

Hope you having a good weekend...Thanks...and takecare.

Regards...Sammy

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

HI Richard

Just an update...went back to Euro carparts today to order my o2 lambda sensor in...He seemed to think bank 2 sensor 1 was also the one on the right with the longer wire attatched to it...quoted me £65.00 inclusive of vat...but i got chatting to the guy and asked if i was to buy both the left and right sensor could he do me a good discount since i buy all my parts from them...reconed he can and to let him know by the end of today...looking at £115.00 for both.....SO do you think i should just replace both? Hey Toyota quoted £149.00 + vat for theirs!!! Or is it just wasting money? Please kindly let me know richard...or anyone else out there!

This is my plan...replace sensors...pour in a bottle of cataclean...replace drivers cv joint hoping its the outer ( actually how do i tell if its the inner cv?????)...AND MAYBE IT WILL SALE THROUGH ITS MOT IN AUGUST AND SERVE ME WELL FOR A WHILE LONGER!

Regards...sammy

p/s...said i was having intermittent probs with the ignition switch but it still starts so i'll forget about that for now. Be a bad one if it then failed on shocks or the cat etc...how do i test my shocks so i knoe for defo their def okay???

[Pat2u]

Are you sure you are not throwing good money after bad on this vehicle ? You only use it on short runs so is this car suitable for purpose ? If i was you i would truly consider looking for another vehicle before lashing out more cash on it. I have said this to you in one of my earlier post to you and still its costing you ££££s.

[toyotaavensis]

hi sam,

glad to hear you have nearly sorted out those problems, my advice to you would be buy both sensors, at £115 inc vat for both verses £149+ vat each from toyota's its a no brainer, you can always take 1 back to euro carparts for a refund.

the knocking noise your getting when turning might possibly be a loose anti-rollbar drop link witch just needs tightening.

if you do decide to buy a new ignition switch get it from eBay they are only about £35-55 compared to toyota's £87 + vat, i had to replace mine last year, its not a hard job to do just undoing a few screws and swapping its that simple.

once you have fixed your car you will have peace of mind that these jobs have been done and it should pass its MOT, whereas buying another car could be as much trouble as this one.

regards.

mark.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

hi sam,

glad to hear you have nearly sorted out those problems, my advice to you would be buy both sensors, at £115 inc vat for both verses £149+ vat each from toyota's its a no brainer, you can always take 1 back to euro carparts for a refund.

the knocking noise your getting when turning might possibly be a loose anti-rollbar drop link witch just needs tightening.

if you do decide to buy a new ignition switch get it from ebay they are only about £35-55 compared to toyota's £87 + vat, i had to replace mine last year, its not a hard job to do just undoing a few screws and swapping its that simple.

once you have fixed your car you will have peace of mind that these jobs have been done and it should pass its MOT, whereas buying another car could be as much trouble as this one.

regards.

mark.

THANK YOU MARK...YOUR A STAR FOR THAT ADVICE...I was just telling a friend about how stiff my gears are even after changing my gearbox oil...he checked my clutch fluid as said it was pretty black and that i should drain it and refill and that should improve things...he recons when pressing on my clutch pedal its quite hard as if the car must have had a new clutch fitted before...told me i could adjust the gear ratios from inside the engine somewhere without needing to open the gearbox etc...recons he can get it to change gears like new...so i've told him to give me a hand at the weekend as he's a neighbour and helps all the lassies out in my area...please do let me know what you think...cheers

Sammy

[richard.c]

i should drain it and refill and that should improve things...he recons when pressing on my clutch pedal its quite hard as if the car must have had a new clutch fitted before...told me i could adjust the gear ratios from inside the engine somewhere without needing to open the gearbox etc...recons he can get it to change gears like new...so i've told him to give me a hand at the weekend as he's a neighbour and helps all the lassies out in my area...please do let me know what you think...cheers

Sammy

Hi,

Like the brake fluid, the clutch fluid should not just be drained and refilled, but 'bled' to remove all traces of air as well as the old fluid, otherwise you will have spongy pedal problems. You should ideally change your brake and clutch fluids every 24 months - the darkened appearance is an obvious clue on either.

Apart from lubricating the gear lever to gear box linkage/cables I have never heard of being able to adjust anything else in or on the gearbox ??

( not the ratios which are fixed by the gears )

Would be interested to know what that is..?

Any progress on the O2 sensor ...?

"he's a neighbour and helps all the lassies out in my area..." Hmmmmmmmm.................

[toyotaavensis]

hi sam,

as richard quoated i personly have never heard of the gears being able to be adjusted from in the engine, it sounds like you need to change the clutch fluid and as richard said it must be bled to get rid of all the air, if after changing the fluid the clutch is still stiff it may possibly mean there is a problem with the clutch master/slave cylinder if your model has a fluid clutch?

good luck, let us know how you get on.

mark.

[Pat2u]

Talking about gears ect i remember a mondeo 2ltr one owner from new "HERZT CAR HIRE" 2nd and 4th gear was a swine to engage that too had a heavy clutch pedal feel or so it seemed at the time, it turned out the car had been owned by hertz car hire before it came into our ownership. In other words it had more drivers than we first thought due to day/weekly hire and different drivers all of course with different driving methods the car had some warrantee left on it so off to the ford garage it went and the outcome was a badly worn gear selecter it was as thin as a paring knife when i viewed it after the the gearbox strip down and the oil in the box was just a sludge of metal filings left from the selector wear. Thank god we caught it whilst it was still under some warrantee.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Talking about gears ect i remember a mondeo 2ltr one owner from new "HERZT CAR HIRE" 2nd and 4th gear was a swine to engage that too had a heavy clutch pedal feel or so it seemed at the time, it turned out the car had been owned by hertz car hire before it came into our ownership. In other words it had more drivers than we first thought due to day/weekly hire and different drivers all of course with different driving methods the car had some warrantee left on it so off to the ford garage it went and the outcome was a badly worn gear selecter it was as thin as a paring knife when i viewed it after the the gearbox strip down and the oil in the box was just a sludge of metal filings left from the selector wear. Thank god we caught it whilst it was still under some warrantee.

HI Pat2u...

Thanks for the info...well when i drained the gearbox oil a few months back...yup did it myself...i found no filings or anything...crazy but i though of that and syphoned it when i poured the old oil back into a disposle bottle! so hopefully i have no wear in the gearbox i hope!!!

Sammy

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

hi sam,

as richard quoated i personly have never heard of the gears being able to be adjusted from in the engine, it sounds like you need to change the clutch fluid and as richard said it must be bled to get rid of all the air, if after changing the fluid the clutch is still stiff it may possibly mean there is a problem with the clutch master/slave cylinder if your model has a fluid clutch?

good luck, let us know how you get on.

mark.

Hi Mark...

I did think it was a bit weird being able to adjust something to the gearbox from the engine compartment...i will ask him again and let you know...but i wont let anyone touch anything 1st!

Yup i know i have to bleed the clutch fluid 1st via the nipple thats at the bottom towards the front of the engine...i'll attatch a silicone rubber hose into a bottle...keep the nipple closed...then get my other half to pump the clutch pedal say 10 times...open the nipple to let the oil out for a bit...then close...pump the clutch again...bleed again...etc etc...until its empty....THEN fill the new oil from the filler top container...is it right to the full mark with the nipple closed...then pump the clutch again...and keep bleeding...until the air is out???? BUT how will i know when all the air is out???

Also its weird...the black filler lid says DOT 3...but the Haynes manual and every spares shop i spoke to today including Euro carparts said its defo DOT 4...so i bought a litre of dot 4...what do you guys think???

Regards...Sammy