Project 20V 4Age Turbo

[20v4AGTE_Shanon]

Hay I have owned my AE111 bzg 4age Blacktop for a year or so, had bought someones turbo project quite cheap.I have only recently been introduced to the forums. Until now have done alot of research without the help of the internet.

Basically this is the build at the moment

- LINK LEM V5e (computer) Dosn't do Map sensing, only airflow... So have a new Single throttle for new build.

- Blacktop Engine 20v

- Blacktop pistons, Silvertop conrods

- 3PUK clutch, LSD gearbox... Possibly (assuming)

- Custom Plenum, Not engineered..

- Un, branded BOV ,Seems to work good, Plumbed back into air filter side, quite silent.

- 2.5 inch steel intercooler piping from turbo, 3inch from intercooler to plenum ( i got ripped off and thats all i had)

- Simota Pod filter

- Quite a large Intercooler

- Standard radiator with 2 large 10 inch fans

- 38mm Turbo smart wastegate

- Evo Turbo TD05

- Custom Turbo/ Wastegate manifold

- 2.5 inch straight through exaughst, Wastegate Plumbed back

- Full aftermarket suspention all around, inc swaybars. Handles like its on tracks. Not as much in the wet!

- 17 inch rims

Problems i am having, Needs map sensing for quad throttles, so is over fueling. Old owner must of slapt the engine back together because it leaking oil badly. Because of the relativly bad tunning of the computer, and the blacktop pistons it is only boosting 7psi, Will get it dyno tunned after new build. It still hauls and have been to approx 230

So have decided to rebuild... and do things properly.

New Build

Will have everything as above, apart from

- Fully rebuilt all new seals, rings, bearings

- ARP flywheel, Head, and conrod bolts

- Metal head gasket? worth it?

- 4AGZE Pistons and Conrods

- I have a 4AGZE 7 ribbed block,sump and crank. Are all the 7 ribbed blocks the same? is ZE crank stronger...?

- Thinking of swapping Turbo for GARRET T28?

- Bigger injectors, Possibly 3SGTE injectors out of MR2?

- I have Evo1 or 2? Coil packs... with braket made up. Was going to instal, Worth it or use ZE coil packs? Is there any differance

- Possibly Changing Gbox to stronger E51 LSD gbox out of 4agze?.. involved? do i have to change flywheel,clutch etc ( have been told that blacktop cluth possibly fits)? worth it?

- Single 3inch throttle out of V8 LEXUS

- Possible bigger than standard alloy custom radiator.. worth it?

- oil cooler.. Worth it?

I want to get 20 pounds out of it , Im having no problems with heating at the moment at 7psi.. but 20??

I think that is all.. Im not a mechanic , just an apprentice electrician and dont really know a hell of alot about cars. I just try an do alot of research.

ANY advice would be much appreciated

CHEERS SHANON

[KPARRIS-JONES]

The 4A-GE got its crank, rods and pins swapped out once TVIS was removed. TVIS had 40mm crank which weighed in at 11KG and 18mm pins against the later non TVIS which had a 42mm Crank, large rods and 20mm pins to make it tougher. The drawback of this however was the increase in inertia which meant the later models didn't rev as freely making them less suited to racing applications than TVIS engines, hence why I stick to TVIS. IRRC these cranks and rods/pins were passed onto the 20 Valve.

The 4A-GZE was good for 240BHP due to forged rods and pistons, highly over-engineered. I am 98% sure they don't fit the 2O Valves though.

You'd do good to keep the MAP sensor because it is less restrictive than a MAF sensor so good choice there.

If the oil leak is from the sump then join the club. AE_92 (another member here) has had a sump leak on every 4A-GE he has owned and mine has one too despite not touching the sump during the work I did. Luckily these just need some RTV sealant so you don't have to worry about a gasket.

Yes an oil cooler is worth it. Yes an ally rad is a good idea but the standard AE92 rad had a group A racing rad anyway, dunno if this was passed on to the AE111. (obviously you may want to use a different car so then yes get an ally rad.) You'll find a great thing you can do is get a thinner, performance fan - or two- which has a smaller shroud which is less restrictive for air flow, giving you better air flow for your rad and through the engine bay.

Get a decent clutch! I went for an LUK Heavy Duty Clutch kit. £500

I have a 200BHP N/A project and I am getting most of my bits from these guys, they do plenty of 20V stuff so use them: Tweak It

Good luck with it, it will be a fun build! Kudos for taking it on too. :thumbsup:

[K20VFX]

GZE Block is different to 20v block, both 7 rib, but there's a kink on right side [from front] of 20v for bracket that attaches to gearbox, sump and scraper also have kink.

Get GZE pistons machined for 5th valve or get forged piston from Tweakit. Built with GZE pistons everything will clear, but 1 slip of timing belt and it all crashes.

Use GZE or Silvertop rods.

GZE gearbox is stronger, as are driveshafts, you will need LSD.

GZE flywheel is larger, as is clutch - 225mm instead of 212mm, some earlier 4age's were 200mm. GZE flywheel and clutch will not fit 20v gearbox, or T50 for rwd, without assistance from a grinder.

Also clutch centre splines are different diameter, though clutch plates can be sourced.

Let us know how it goes.