Yaris Key Programming

[flash22]

Yet another variation of fob programming..................

1. Open the driver’s door.
2. Insert the pre-programmed working key into the ignition lock then remove it. Don’t turn the ignition on.
3. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the driver’s door twice, then
4. Insert the new key into the ignition then remove it. Don’t turn the ignition on.

5. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the driver’s door twice, then
6. Close the driver’s door, then

7. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn the ignition on then off, then
8. Remove the new key, then
9. The central locking should now lock then unlock twice.
10. Press the lock and unlock on the remote at the same time for 1.5 seconds
11. Within 3 seconds, press the lock button on the remote for 1 second.
12. The central locking should lock and unlock once.
13. If the central locking locks then unlock twice then the sequence has not been successful. Try again.
14. Open the driver’s door to complete the sequence.

and another

1. Open the driver’s door.
2. Insert the pre-programmed working key into the ignition lock then remove it. Don’t turn the ignition on.
3. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the driver’s door twice, then
4. Insert the new key into the ignition then remove it. Don’t turn the ignition on.

5. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the driver’s door twice, then
6. Close the driver’s door, then

7. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn the ignition on then off, then
8. Remove the new key, then
9. The central locking should now lock then unlock twice.
10. Press the lock on the remote for 1.5 seconds
11. Within 3 seconds, press the lock button on the remote for 1 second.
12. The central locking should lock and unlock once.
13. If the central locking locks then unlock twice then the sequence has not been successful. Try again.
14. Open the driver’s door to complete the sequence.

[ShiftedReality1990]

I don't know if my ecu unit is defective or wrong fobs or something but I cannot get it to work despite trying all those methods. Trying as best as I can without breaking the door hinge. Tried using the current key, tried the new key and the locks cycle twice despite using either key as it should but absolutely nothing wheg I get to step 10.  I've got a Denso fob and 2 Valeo fobs and absolutely none of them will communicate with the car. Grrrr

[flash22]

The lock receiver (white box) is valeo  - check powers and ground with a meter I have the pinout somewhere

I may be mistaken, but there is a key presents switch on the ignition barrel, if this isn't working it may not program correctly

[boyse7en]

1 hour ago, ShiftedReality1990 said:

I don't know if my ecu unit is defective or wrong fobs or something but I cannot get it to work despite trying all those methods. Trying as best as I can without breaking the door hinge. Tried using the current key, tried the new key and the locks cycle twice despite using either key as it should but absolutely nothing wheg I get to step 10.  I've got a Denso fob and 2 Valeo fobs and absolutely none of them will communicate with the car. Grrrr

Glad it isn't just me that can't get it working. I'm confident my receiver is working as I have one key that does remotely lock and unlock the car. The new key doesn't connect at all

[ShiftedReality1990]

1 hour ago, boyse7en said:

Glad it isn't just me that can't get it working. I'm confident my receiver is working as I have one key that does remotely lock and unlock the car. The new key doesn't connect at all

Yeah it's a strange mystery as to why it won't work. I've been going at it for weeks trying to get it to work. I'm almost done and giving up but I've invested time and money into it that I need to get it working. Sort of obsessed haha

[ShiftedReality1990]

3 hours ago, flash22 said:

The lock receiver (white box) is valeo  - check powers and ground with a meter I have the pinout somewhere

I may be mistaken, but there is a key presents switch on the ignition barrel, if this isn't working it may not program correctly

I will certainly have a look. This should indicate if I need a new one. A quick question, If the box is found to be faulty, would the central locking not work with the key manually used? My car unlocks both sides if I use the key manually, just the remote part won't program. Or is it completely different systems? 

I did not know about the ignition barrel so thats handy to know. Learning alot from this forum. 

[flash22]

The white box is just the receiver, it sends a lock/unlock signal to the locking system

Fob (transmitter) ----- Receiver ----- Locking system

[flash22]

Having a few issues finding the pinouts, but the wires are - Battery 12v+, Ground, PRG (program) and RDA (signal)

Power comes from the dome fuse (interior lights)

[flash22]

Pin 1 - Battery 12v+     Yellow/Black

Pin 2 - PRG (program)

Pin 3 -RDA (signal)

Pin 5 - Ground            Green/Yellow

 

Pin 2 Ignition off, Key Removed, or transmitter ON  - 6-7v

Pin 3 Normal mode 10-14v

 

I have found the Toyota info for fob programming it's more involved than the above instructions with 4 modes

I will write it out as the chart is complicated

 

 

[flash22]

1. The car should be

a. Driver’s door unlocked

b. Driver’s door open

c. No keys in the ignition

 

2. Insert the key and pull it out twice within 5 seconds

3. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the driver’s door twice

4. Insert the key into the ignition, then remove it. Don’t turn the ignition on.

5. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the driver’s door twice

6. Close the driver’s door

7. Insert the new key into the ignition, turn the key On and off within in 1 second

a. Once for Add mode

b. Twice for Rewrite

c. Thrice for Confirmation mode

d. 5 times for Prohibit mode

8. Remove the key

9. The central locking should now lock and unlock

a. Once for add mode (1 second interval) within 3 seconds

b. Twice for rewrite (1 second intervals) within 3 seconds

c. twice for confirmation (2 Seconds intervals) within 3 seconds - function is now complete - Go to 14.

d. 5 times for Prohibit (1 second intervals) within 20 seconds - function is now complete - Go to 14.

 

10. Press the lock and unlock on the remote at the same time for 1-1.5 seconds

11. Within 3 seconds, press the lock or unlock button on the remote for 1 second.

12. The central locking should lock and unlock once.

a. If the central locking locks, then unlock twice, then the sequence has not been successful.

14. Open the driver’s door to complete the sequence

 

 

 

Perform rewrite (b) as it will not add a new fob, A prohibition removes all know fobs (Locking only) you can then add fobs from step 1

 

Added a PDF for convenience

xp10 20 and 90 fob programing.pdf

[ShiftedReality1990]

Thank you so much for taking the time to type up these instructions. Really detailed instructions for the locking ecu and the procedure. 

I honestly think I have a defective ecu or something because these updated instructions do work with my car and my car responds to the various key turn program modes but as usual, as soon as I get to pressing the lock/unlock buttons on the fobs, nothing happens. I have tried about 10 times now and the car will respond to the confirmation mode and Prohibit modes but it's when I try to add a new fob either with 1 turn or 2 turns. The locks cycle as they should but its like the car can't see the fob signals or something. Getting very infuriating. 

 

I'll test the ecu box and see if it's working before I end up breaking the door hinges haha

[flash22]

It's either the fob or receiver, 2 fob not working is slim or just bad luck, throw a receiver at it

I will see if i have any info for programming the chips directly

[Cyker]

I'm pretty sure the car is fine and there is nothing wrong with it; TBH, I think the original theory, i.e. that you can't program the ECU with the Grey Valet key, is the problem.

Don't throw good money after bad.

It's a bizarre thing with Mk1s - A lot of them seem to be missing their original keys. I remember one I was looking at, the dealer (A self-proclaimed Japanese car specialist no less!) didn't even know it had remote central locking until I asked them about it - Turned out it only had one key and it was a generic third-party cloned one, so of course couldn't operate the remote locking system. I walked away.

This is one good thing about e.g. Fiestas, as it's so easy to crack the ECU and inject new master key codes you don't get this problem with them, but the Toyota system is much harder to crack and very few people offer that service these days.

[flash22]

22 hours ago, Cyker said:

I'm pretty sure the car is fine and there is nothing wrong with it; TBH, I think the original theory, i.e. that you can't program the ECU with the Grey Valet key, is the problem.

Don't throw good money after bad.

It's a bizarre thing with Mk1s - A lot of them seem to be missing their original keys. I remember one I was looking at, the dealer (A self-proclaimed Japanese car specialist no less!) didn't even know it had remote central locking until I asked them about it - Turned out it only had one key and it was a generic third-party cloned one, so of course couldn't operate the remote locking system. I walked away.

This is one good thing about e.g. Fiestas, as it's so easy to crack the ECU and inject new master key codes you don't get this problem with them, but the Toyota system is much harder to crack and very few people offer that service these days.

There is nothing specified for the programming, the locking

the Immobilizer and locking are 2 independent systems

Locking

Fob - Receiver - B-ecu (BCM)

Immobilizer

Key - Receiver ring - Immobilizer - Main ECU

 

The OP is entering the programming mode(s) No issues - the problem is with the fob or receiver - the EEPROM in the receiver can fail over time

 

I can do the MK1 immobilizers no problem, i can also program keys

[Cyker]

Are you sure?? With my old Mk1s I was told it wasn't possible to code the immobilizer OR remote locking without a master key present, but may be different between the french and jappy ones.

It makes sense, otherwise why would the procedure require you to insert keys into the ignition if not for it to be verified in some way?

I do know the remote and immobilizer are separate as I was able to program an ebay'd remote module so the doors worked, despite being unable to code it to the immobilizer (Never got that to work, and ended up wasting more money getting the code of my working master key cloned onto an RFID chip that I blutacked inside the flip-key case so I could start the car with it  )

While the door module could be faulty, I've never heard of that on a Mk1 which is why I feel it's the least likely reason. Ironically there's no easy way to test it without a working remote key; Would need someone with your more indepth electronics knowledge and some probes!

[flash22]

Inserting the key activates/deactivates the key lock detect switch, the door/open close also relates to the locking system (b-ecu) ignition on/off also toggles the B-ecu

the door receiver, receives the signal from the fob and sends a signal to the B-ecu, The Fob and receiver need to be synced in order to be on the same rolling code

the Valeo fobs are share across a few cars in the Toyota range, but there are variations between them, op may have fobs that are not from a yaris

on a side Note, the Door receiver can throw an obd2 code -

The door receiver does have a self diagnostic mode

 

 

Self diagnostic

1.       The car should be.

 a. No key in the ignition

b. All doors are closed

c. All doors are locked

 

2. Insert the key in the ignition, pull it out and insert again

3. turn the ignition on-off once within 5 seconds

4. Within 30 seconds, turn the ignition On-Off 9 times

5. the door should lock/unlock rapidly and the hazards lights flash to confirm diagnostic mode

6. now press the FOB lock button for 1 second

 

a. Door Unlocks once and the hazards flash 3 times

b. Door unlocks twice, Hazards do not flash

 

follow these steps and let me know what you get

[Cyker]

I think they might have trouble completing that test without an already working remote!  

That's good to know tho; Wasn't aware of that procedure!  

You're right it is a bit of a mess tho', esp. the Mk1s. I remember from going through a similar journey of discovery that era had a lot of key and key modules that looked very very similar but were incompatible - I even got my original key mixed up with my brother's Corolla once due to their similarity!  

 

[flash22]

That self diagnostic will tell you if it's the fob or receiver, depending on the outcome of No.6 it's looking for an RF signal not a coded RF signal

[ShiftedReality1990]

3 hours ago, flash22 said:

Inserting the key activates/deactivates the key lock detect switch, the door/open close also relates to the locking system (b-ecu) ignition on/off also toggles the B-ecu

the door receiver, receives the signal from the fob and sends a signal to the B-ecu, The Fob and receiver need to be synced in order to be on the same rolling code

the Valeo fobs are share across a few cars in the Toyota range, but there are variations between them, op may have fobs that are not from a yaris

on a side Note, the Door receiver can throw an obd2 code -

The door receiver does have a self diagnostic mode

 

 

Self diagnostic

1.       The car should be.

 a. No key in the ignition

b. All doors are closed

c. All doors are locked

 

2. Insert the key in the ignition, pull it out and insert again

3. turn the ignition on-off once within 5 seconds

4. Within 30 seconds, turn the ignition On-Off 9 times

5. the door should lock/unlock rapidly and the hazards lights flash to confirm diagnostic mode

6. now press the FOB lock button for 1 second

 

a. Door Unlocks once and the hazards flash 3 times

b. Door unlocks twice, Hazards do not flash

 

follow these steps and let me know what you get

This information is brilliant from both of you guys. I appreciate the vast information that you both have shared. 

 

So the result from the test, I follow the procedure as written. My car enters the door self diagnosing mode successfully but when I press lock on the fob nothing happens. I have tried all 3 fobs (2 Valeo and 1 Denso) and nothing at all. Tried 3 times and my car responses but when I press lock, nothing. 

 

I'll attach a video of me doing the procedure......

[ShiftedReality1990]

 

 

[flash22]

i take you have done the diagnostic test with the fob unlock button too

when you press the fob button, the fob LED comes on ?

Have look under the driver side dash and see if you have a red/brown box, unplug it and plug it back in

 

I think i have the issue pinned down, do you have a multimeter ?

[ShiftedReality1990]

1 hour ago, flash22 said:

i take you have done the diagnostic test with the fob unlock button too

when you press the fob button, the fob LED comes on ?

Have look under the driver side dash and see if you have a red/brown box, unplug it and plug it back in

 

I think i have the issue pinned down, do you have a multimeter ?

That I did. I've tried both lock and unlock buttons on all 3 fobs. LED lights up after each press on each fob so I'm assuming they are sending out a signal?

I do have a red/brown box under the dash and I really had to tug on the connector to get it to unplug as it was quite stiff. Unplugged and replugged it in and tried the procedure again, still the same result 

I do have one, yes

[flash22]

check the voltages on the 12v, PRG and RDA on the door receiver then check pins 22 and 23 on the door relay module

Correction

Pin 1 - Battery 12v+     Yellow/Black

Pin 2 -RDA (signal)

Pin 3 - PRG (program)

Pin 5 - Ground            Green/Yellow

 

Pin 2 Ignition off, Key Removed, or transmitter ON  - 6-7v

Pin 3 Normal mode 10-14v

 

 

 

[ShiftedReality1990]

Hi all, haven't been on here for a week or so. My car has been in the garage getting some welding work done did it's MOT so I'm hoping I'll have it back early next week so I can resume the diagnosis of the central locking. 

 

I'll update when I have more news. 

[ShiftedReality1990]

On 10/15/2023 at 3:46 PM, flash22 said:

check the voltages on the 12v, PRG and RDA on the door receiver then check pins 22 and 23 on the door relay module

Correction

Pin 1 - battery 12v+     Yellow/Black

Pin 2 -RDA (signal)

Pin 3 - PRG (program)

Pin 5 - Ground            Green/Yellow

 

Pin 2 Ignition off, Key Removed, or transmitter ON  - 6-7v

Pin 3 Normal mode 10-14v

 

 

 

Brilliant information, Flash22. I'll test it out once I get my car back and post the results