Yaris Key Programming

[boyse7en]

16 hours ago, ShiftedReality1990 said:

Oh, I forgot to add the fob number that worked for me if anyone in the future requires it.... 

Valeo 89071-0D030

How did you know what key to get? I've got a key which will unlock and start the car, but won't do remote central locking (my other key does do remote, but I want to use the spare rather than the master key).

Did you have to buy a new key, or can you reprogram a used key and fit a new blade to it?

[ShiftedReality1990]

1 hour ago, boyse7en said:

How did you know what key to get? I've got a key which will unlock and start the car, but won't do remote central locking (my other key does do remote, but I want to use the spare rather than the master key).

Did you have to buy a new key, or can you reprogram a used key and fit a new blade to it?

Through Alot, and I mean ALOT of trail and error, effort, patience, research and the help from members on here. I was missing my master key so I really had to guess. I ended up buying 4 used remotes from eBay during my research (3 Valeo and 1 Denso) as my car is a French VNK build. So after researching and the wisdom from forum members here, I discovered I needed Valeo or Denso. My Valet (grey) key has Valeo written on the blade so I knew I most likely needed Valeo. Flash22 gave be me good information about the central locking ecu and how to test it. You can find that information further up this forum thread. This made it clear my car was fine and the fobs were at fault.

2 of the Valeo keys I bought seemed cheap and felt like Chinese knock offs that my car didn't recognise. These had a chip on the main board labelled 'Japan' and C wrote on, I think... I'll post some pictures to try and explain what I'm talking about. 

 

I was able to find some diagrams about the Yaris about the central locking system and on it, showed remote fob with the same number. It was when I saw listing for a genuine Toyota Valeo remote with the exact number 89071-0D030 on eBay, I snatched it up. This one felt much more better quality.. 

I followed the reprogramming procedure on here and my car recognised the fob immediately once I turned the key twice to erase and learn a new fob. 

So the now working remote has a used transponder, I just cut the key blade off that as I use my grey key to start the car. I use my remote to unlock/lock the car as stand alone fob. 

If you want to get another key that will unlock remotely and start your car, you will need to get a key from eBay that matches your remote fob, get a blank key case from eBay, get the blank one cut to match your car, transfer the used remote to the new blank key case then program using instructions on here. I'm not exactly sure if you can reprogram the black little transponder chip inside the remote with your master key to work for your car or you'll need a new, blank transponder chip. I have a spare new one I didn't use I could send you if you want? 

I hope that makes sense? 😁

[ShiftedReality1990]

So overall, I spend around £50-£60 on keys plus getting one cut, lots of trail and errors but kept prevailing as I was determined to get it working. Much cheaper than £500+ that Toyota would have wanted for a replacement ecu, keys and locks. I didn't fancy getting a scrappy ecu as I wasn't confident taking the ecu out

[ShiftedReality1990]

This is the key I bought for my car that worked.. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255206584796?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g8cWWa8pRHa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5xY2SAwCRNG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The seller/company must have a few keys left.

The pictures attached are of 1 of the Valeo fobs that didn't work for me. I have 2 of them. These are supposed to be genuine Toyota fobs. They look similar to the one that works but these feel cheap and the rubber buttons fall out. I have a Denso fob that has 3 buttons so definitely didn't work. 

 

I hope I'm explaining this well so it helps? 

[funky2nite]

58 minutes ago, ShiftedReality1990 said:

This is the key I bought for my car that worked.. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255206584796?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g8cWWa8pRHa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5xY2SAwCRNG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The seller/company must have a few keys left.

The pictures attached are of 1 of the Valeo fobs that didn't work for me. I have 2 of them. These are supposed to be genuine Toyota fobs. They look similar to the one that works but these feel cheap and the rubber buttons fall out. I have a Denso fob that has 3 buttons so definitely didn't work. 

 

I hope I'm explaining this well so it helps? 

Which model yaris do you have I see the remote layout is different than my 2013 hybrid. Your remote actually looks like my sister's older avensis. 

 

Lame question on my end, can I ask for the clear programming steps you followed? 

 

I actually found several online which i tried cautiously but got me nowhere.

 

My strongest concern is that unlike you, I only have (what I believe to be) the master remote fob cut key only available. I got a local copy cut without remote lock (approx 70quid), but nothing beats remote central lock.. obviously. In comparison you didn't have any remote fob...so your process might have wiped/erased all remote keys known yo the car and start afresh, whilst someone in my position would only prefer to duplicate ANOTHER remote fob key to safeguard the master. 

 

Not sure if i explained myself correctly. 

[ShiftedReality1990]

I have a Yaris Mark1, 1.3 T3 from 2004. I believe that the Yaris Mk1, shares this layout across multiple Toyota models, including the Avensis as your Sister has but I'm not 100% sure about that. The later models of Yaris use a slightly different shape key. 

I will do my best to write down and explain how I did it. Given that you already have a working remote, you'll want to add another rather than wipe all and relearn. 

1. Unlock the car and open the drivers door. Sit in the car. The other doors and boot must be shut. You can open the window on the driver door if you want before you start. 

2. With your working key, put the key into the ignition and pull it back out immediately( don't turn your ignition on) 

3. Shut the drivers door, open, shut and open the door

4. Put the working key into the ignition and pull it back out again(again don't turn ignition on) 

5. Shut the door, open, shut and open again

6. Put the key in the ignition and then shut the door

7. This part seems to get people in a tangle, you turn the ignition on and off depending on the mode you want.

This is the modes(that I know of) 

*1 time* - Keeps known remotes and adds new

*2 times* - Erases all known remotes and adds new

*5 times* - Confirms how many remotes are already registered. The lock cycles denote how many remotes are registered (1 cycle =1 remote and so on. 5 times means no remotes are registered)

I selected 2 times as I wanted to erase all known fobs from the past and register a new fob. You will want to turn the ignition on and off once as you want to retain remotes already known and add your new one. 

8. Once you select your mode you want, pull the key out. The locks should cycle to the mode selected. 

9. Press and hold both lock and unlock for a few seconds then quickly press lock. The locks should cycle 1 time if it's done right or twice if you didn't manage it. Keep trying as you have around 10 seconds to do it. If you can't manage to do it, retry from step 1. I found that if you press both lock and unlock buttons quickly one after the other then hold lock for a second, that did it for me. It take a while to get the timing right so you might want to practice. 

10. Once registered, open the driver door to finish. Then test. 

Hopefully this guide is helpful. I might have missed something but I literally wrote this at the top of my head. 

Happy to help further if needed 

[funky2nite]

17 minutes ago, ShiftedReality1990 said:

I have a Yaris Mark1, 1.3 T3 from 2004. I believe that the Yaris Mk1, shares this layout across multiple Toyota models, including the Avensis as your Sister has but I'm not 100% sure about that. The later models of Yaris use a slightly different shape key. 

I will do my best to write down and explain how I did it. Given that you already have a working remote, you'll want to add another rather than wipe all and relearn. 

1. Unlock the car and open the drivers door. Sit in the car. The other doors and boot must be shut. You can open the window on the driver door if you want before you start. 

2. With your working key, put the key into the ignition and pull it back out immediately( don't turn your ignition on) 

3. Shut the drivers door, open, shut and open the door

4. Put the working key into the ignition and pull it back out again(again don't turn ignition on) 

5. Shut the door, open, shut and open again

6. Put the key in the ignition and then shut the door

7. This part seems to get people in a tangle, you turn the ignition on and off depending on the mode you want.

This is the modes(that I know of) 

*1 time* - Keeps known remotes and adds new

*2 times* - Erases all known remotes and adds new

*5 times* - Confirms how many remotes are already registered. The lock cycles denote how many remotes are registered (1 cycle =1 remote and so on. 5 times means no remotes are registered)

I selected 2 times as I wanted to erase all known fobs from the past and register a new fob. You will want to turn the ignition on and off once as you want to retain remotes already known and add your new one. 

8. Once you select your mode you want, pull the key out. The locks should cycle to the mode selected. 

9. Press and hold both lock and unlock for a few seconds then quickly press lock. The locks should cycle 1 time if it's done right or twice if you didn't manage it. Keep trying as you have around 10 seconds to do it. If you can't manage to do it, retry from step 1. I found that if you press both lock and unlock buttons quickly one after the other then hold lock for a second, that did it for me. It take a while to get the timing right so you might want to practice. 

10. Once registered, open the driver door to finish. Then test. 

Hopefully this guide is helpful. I might have missed something but I literally wrote this at the top of my head. 

Happy to help further if needed 

 

Thanks brother this is golden! Buying a key with a  chip this evening. If it all goes well I'll defo be tipping you through paypal later on, rightfully so as you mentioned this will save me almost hundreds. I'll worry at cutting the blade later. 

Lame question on my end, re step 9 above, that's done on the new "dumb" remote rather than the working one. Correct? 

 

Again thanks a mill. Crossing fingers

[ShiftedReality1990]

56 minutes ago, funky2nite said:

Thanks brother this is golden! Buying a key with a  chip this evening. If it all goes well I'll defo be tipping you through paypal later on, rightfully so as you mentioned this will save me almost hundreds. I'll worry at cutting the blade later. 

Lame question on my end, re step 9 above, that's done on the new "dumb" remote rather than the working one. Correct? 

 

Again thanks a mill. Crossing fingers

No worries my man. I really hope it works for you. Having remote locking is such a luxury taken for granted by many. Good luck, always happy to help when I can

Pete😁

[ShiftedReality1990]

Sorry I didn't answer the last part. Yeah after part 9, you will want to follow with your new remote. Once you have finished, you should have 2 working fobs 😁

Pete

[boyse7en]

So, a new/old 0D020 key was purchased from eBay (new blade/case, old circuit board) 

Had it cut at a local locksmiths, blade works in the doors and ignition

Tried programming the central locking, and succeeded first time! Hooray! 

Tried to program it for the immobiliser and no success. I follow the instructions but the red flashing light never goes out (should be after a minute, but i have tried leaving it longer)

So i now have 

1) Original key which works fine in ignition and remote locking

2) a replacement flip-out aftermarket key which works in the ignition (i programmed it using the steps shown earlier in this thread) but won't do remote locking

3) a replacement "original" key, which won't do the ignition but will open the doors...

 

Is it possible to move the transponder from key #2 to key #3 so that i end up with one spare key that does both? 

[Cyker]

I suspect #3 might not be the correct module for your immobilizer - The Mk1 Yaris is particularly annoying to code for as there are 3 different and totally incompatible immobilizers.

Is #2 missing the buttons for the remote locking? If so I'm guessing it's cloned so you might be able to remove the RFID chip and tape it to #3.

If #2 does have buttons for remote locking, try programming it for remote locking.

Although the immobilizer and door functions are totally separate, they're built into the same module in the OE Yaris key modules and there isn't a separate little RFID chip you can swap over like there is with e.g. the Aygo.

 

[boyse7en]

On 6/4/2024 at 6:45 PM, Cyker said:

I suspect #3 might not be the correct module for your immobilizer - The Mk1 Yaris is particularly annoying to code for as there are 3 different and totally incompatible immobilizers.

Is #2 missing the buttons for the remote locking? If so I'm guessing it's cloned so you might be able to remove the RFID chip and tape it to #3.

If #2 does have buttons for remote locking, try programming it for remote locking.

Although the immobilizer and door functions are totally separate, they're built into the same module in the OE Yaris key modules and there isn't a separate little RFID chip you can swap over like there is with e.g. the Aygo.

 

#2 has got remote buttons, and i've tried programming it for the doors but couldn't get it to work.

Picture (below) of key #2 shows it looks nothing like the toyota key, but it works to start the car. Is the bit circled the transponder for the ignition? It's not attached to the Battery or circuit board in any way

[Cyker]

Wow! That looks like a remote for a Mk3/Mk4 Yaris!! I have no idea they could work with a Mk1!!!  

One way you can test if that's the right transponder is hold it up to the ring around the ignition and try and start it with the non-working key - If it starts, then that is indeed the right transponder!  

You could also try holding up the circuit board to the ignition and try to start it with the non-working key.

[flash22]

that is an aftermarket flip key you need the correct type for your car

the immobiliser is a passive chip that is needed to start the car (circled in red), the PCB is for the remote locking

add the chip from #2 to #3 for a working key

 

ps, the chip in the factory key is located in the plastic frame of the remote buttons and can be swapped out iirc its the 4c type transponder not the later ID70

 

[Cyker]

I don't know about all, but in my Mk1 and Mk2 the immobilizer transponder was integrated into the module and wasn't a separate chip like it is in earlier corollas, aygo etc.

[flash22]

😕 the pcb is in a plastic case inside the fob the chip is in the corner near the blade, as used from around 1996 - 2012

Edit. the non-remote keys are another matter they are solid plastic and the chip is in it for life

as pictured above

 

the chip just unclips out of the case but it can be v.tight

 

[funky2nite]

Apologies for the late reply. I Can confirm that yaris mk3 doesn't follow suit with the programming guide shared earlier - that goes through a list of steps of door opening and key switching in ignition 😕 

I still believe if there was this manual way on yaris mk1 and maybe mk2, there should still eb another way for mk3 but could be different

[ShiftedReality1990]

On 6/4/2024 at 2:47 PM, boyse7en said:

So, a new/old 0D020 key was purchased from eBay (new blade/case, old circuit board) 

Had it cut at a local locksmiths, blade works in the doors and ignition

Tried programming the central locking, and succeeded first time! Hooray! 

Tried to program it for the immobiliser and no success. I follow the instructions but the red flashing light never goes out (should be after a minute, but i have tried leaving it longer)

So i now have 

1) Original key which works fine in ignition and remote locking

2) a replacement flip-out aftermarket key which works in the ignition (i programmed it using the steps shown earlier in this thread) but won't do remote locking

3) a replacement "original" key, which won't do the ignition but will open the doors...

 

Is it possible to move the transponder from key #2 to key #3 so that i end up with one spare key that does both? 

In theory you should be able to swap the immobiliser chip from key 2 to key 3 so you can have a spare key that unlocks remotely and start the car unless someone on here has more knowledge? The little immobiliser chips are located inside the remote plastic housing, the little black chip. I'll attach a picture of the chip where it is located. As long as its blank, it should be able to be programmed. You obviously need the master key to do it. I can't test, unfortunately, as I lack a master key for my car.

[flash22]

this thread is for the Mk 1 And 2

the mk3 uses a different system and you need a scan tool to program the immobilizer even more so with the smart key programming the remote locking can be a pain

 

 

 

[ShiftedReality1990]

On 6/6/2024 at 9:32 AM, boyse7en said:

 

boyse7evn if you need some spare immobiliser chips to try and program, you can have my spare chips I have from my 3 fobs that I didn't need as I managed to get my remote locking to work (in the thread above.) I'll post them to you free of charge. If you PM your address I can send you them. I don't need them so they can go to good use.

[boyse7en]

1 hour ago, ShiftedReality1990 said:

boyse7evn if you need some spare immobiliser chips to try and program, you can have my spare chips I have from my 3 fobs that I didn't need as I managed to get my remote locking to work (in the thread above.) I'll post them to you free of charge. If you PM your address I can send you them. I don't need them so they can go to good use.

Very generous of you. 

I managed to get the chip out of key #3 and swap in the chip form key #2 and now key #3 starts the car and opens and operates the remote locking! Hurray!!

Key #2 (the one that someone thinks looks like a Mk3 key) still operates the remote locking, but obviously no longer starts the car as i guess the transponder isn't the right one/is previously used (can a "used" transponder be reprogrammed, or does it need to be wiped clean somehow first, or is it just no longer useful and a brand new one is required?)

[ShiftedReality1990]

13 minutes ago, boyse7en said:

Very generous of you. 

I managed to get the chip out of key #3 and swap in the chip form key #2 and now key #3 starts the car and opens and operates the remote locking! Hurray!!

Key #2 (the one that someone thinks looks like a Mk3 key) still operates the remote locking, but obviously no longer starts the car as i guess the transponder isn't the right one/is previously used (can a "used" transponder be reprogrammed, or does it need to be wiped clean somehow first, or is it just no longer useful and a brand new one is required?)

You're welcome. Always happy to help when I can. Oh that's absolutely awesome stuff! Glad you're able to get your keys working. Always a good feeling when you save money instead of going to the dealers to get robbed off. Great result 👍😃

[ShiftedReality1990]

I'm not quite sure about reprogramming an already programmed chip. I'm curious about that too. If someone can confirm that, it would be great.

[flash22]

the chip is not blank it is a RFID chip the car is the receiver when programming, the car says hello, the key tells its name (ID), once programmed when the key meets the car both shake hands - if the car does not recognise the key it refuses the handshake, the car can have up to 4 friends but you will need to delete one to add another, sometimes you need to get rid of them all and start afresh

it's a bit more complex than that, I was just simplifying things

[Cyker]

Yeah, the immobilizer transponders are essentially hard-wired - When they say programming, it's actually the car that's being programmed, not the chip.

(Programmable chips do exist - This is what auto-locksmiths use to clone an existing transponder signal).

The way they work in essence is the car pulses a signal at the chip, a bit like how wireless charging works, which powers it up and allows the chip to pulse back its own signal; If it matches what's coded into the car, it releases the immobilizer.