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Skimming A Cylinder Head


shocks
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engines now out of my 2001 140hp celica and now it is workshop just asked if i could find out if the head would benifit from a skim and if so whats a realistic amount to take off, if you could give us some help in answering this it would be great as so far i have posted about my engine woes and not one comment or offer of advice. maybe you will be a bit more helpful now?

having a complete engine re build done this week its took longer than first thought but i am ensuring its built proof and taking time so i can get it right, without car forums to ask advice its a little longer in finding it.

so if you read this could you at least comment with your thoughts.

many thanks

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Skimming is just to make sure the mating surfaces are flat and smooth, when i got mine skimmed off my gt4 they took off 0.005" but you can do less just depends what condition its in.

What engine troubles you had mates, i'm not expert on the gen 7 mind and not much of a fan but its good to see people rebuilding their engines, just rebuilt my engine in my gt4

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Hi, i only got the car three weeks back, i was not looking for one it just came up which is how it all starts, anyway big ends had gone not badly but lucky for me i caught it after only driving home, so its now in the garage completley stripped, new rings bearings and most other bits crank regrind and thought if we are going to do this we may as well do some other bits and bobs, not really found out much on what you can do and cant, and having spent a long time out of fixing up cars i am just getting back into it.

also have a K&N induction kit coming, was thinking of changing cam shafts and valves but sort of hit a brick wall with finding parts for these cars.

having engine painted black as well so it will look a little nicer in the bay when its all cleaned up.

if you have any advice on this kinda thing drop a line, i have about another three days to get stuff sorted otherwise the garage will be re building it and getting it back on the road.

have put race ACL bearings in and stronger shells and big ends are all higher quialty have also drilled out these extra holes in the block to aid with getting oil circulation increased, changed the clutch and all the belts while its out as well.

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Hi, i only got the car three weeks back, i was not looking for one it just came up which is how it all starts, anyway big ends had gone not badly but lucky for me i caught it after only driving home, so its now in the garage completley stripped, new rings bearings and most other bits crank regrind and thought if we are going to do this we may as well do some other bits and bobs, not really found out much on what you can do and cant, and having spent a long time out of fixing up cars i am just getting back into it.

also have a K&N induction kit coming, was thinking of changing cam shafts and valves but sort of hit a brick wall with finding parts for these cars.

having engine painted black as well so it will look a little nicer in the bay when its all cleaned up.

if you have any advice on this kinda thing drop a line, i have about another three days to get stuff sorted otherwise the garage will be re building it and getting it back on the road.

have put race ACL bearings in and stronger shells and big ends are all higher quialty have also drilled out these extra holes in the block to aid with getting oil circulation increased, changed the clutch and all the belts while its out as well.

whats the drilling holes in block all about.can you explain what benifit this gives,and how.

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Have you got new head studs, main bearing studs etc? I don't think you need arp bolts unless you want to make it into a monster so stick with standard if you haven't got them yet. With head bolts on mine they stretch so you can't re-use them.

Yeh can't say i've ever seen much aftermarket stuff for the gen 7, i think you would have to look deep into a google search to find new valves but you won't need any. Its a high revving car so the valves and springs etc will probably be pretty top notch, so i wouldn't waste your money. Make sure the same valve goes back in the port it was in before.

WIth the induction kit try and fit it inside a cold air box which will see better results and cooler air going into your engine.

I like the idea of extra oil ways, nice bit of modding if you pull it off.

Since you have re-ground the crank you best check the clearances to the bearings with some plastigauge and check them against the toyota manual to make sure they are within limits. If not you may need to get different sized main bearings.

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http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75473

if you look at this topic it will explain more i just read about it emailed the guy that has all the info and will be doing it to help

seems to have worked on ones he has done himself.

thanks for reply,but this tells nothing.as the oil gallery carries oil under pressure from the pump to main bearings i fail to see how drilling holes will not cause the loss of oil pressure

i may have the wrong end of stick

i had sort out why no oil pressure in an factory recon engine (years ago)found it caused by casting blow hole in oil gallery thats cast inside the crancase.found it by blowing ciggy smoke into hole oil pump fed gallery.

3 other fitters had tried to find fault.and if i had not smoked in them days i would have not found it.

i hate to think how many times that engine was stripped and rebuilt trying to find problem.

it was a BMC recon engine,they boasted these engine were thoroughly tested before leaving the factory,bull***T.

they insisted they would not take engine back until cause of lack of oil pressure was identified.

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