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Please Help! Buzzing Sound From Fuel Pump?


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Posted

Recently bought a 1991 mr2 import. there is a strange buzzing sound, coming from the fuel pump? (black plastic cylinder) when ignition is off. it does it randomly and also if i tap it. i have only had the car a week and was looking forward to taking it out on a good drive as weather is great this morning!

Any help or advice would be much appreciated :thumbsup:

Posted

Recently bought a 1991 mr2 import. there is a strange buzzing sound, coming from the fuel pump? (black plastic cylinder) when ignition is off. it does it randomly and also if i tap it. i have only had the car a week and was looking forward to taking it out on a good drive as weather is great this morning!

Any help or advice would be much appreciated :thumbsup:

Cant be the fuel pump because thats inside the fuel tank ,got a picture of what you are tapping?

Posted

ah right.sorry but no i dont have a photo..digital camera packed in the other day. however it has stopped making the noise now..so im going to see how it goes.

my car is overheating like mad because coolent isnt leaving the tank where i fill it up..maybe an air lock? thinking of bleeding the system...could anyone tell me the correct way to bleed?

It is an import if that makes any difference.thanks! :thumbsup:

Posted

****UPDATE****

I found a post giving step by step instructionson bleeding the system, so have just done that. have checked the pipes and they are all hot, however engine is still overheating. The hose that runs from where you fill the coolant..not sure what the bit is called that the hose goes to..but it is on a plastic bracket with a metal top..basically that is steaming like mad..so not sure if the coolant is trapped there somehow? im completely clueless.sorry for the vague discription but hopefully one of you mr2 gurus on here will be able to help! :unsure:

Posted

Ok to get rid of an air-lock:

1. Start up the engine and put the heaters up to MAX

2. Squeeze all the coolant hoses in the direction of coolant flow.

3. Turn off the engine and remove the radiator cap to let the air bubble out.

4. Restart it with the cap back on and repeat 1-3 until no air bubbles out.

The steaming doesn't necessarily mean it is overheating. They run using a pressurised system which means that the water has a higher boiling point. The engine typically has a coolant temperature of about 96 degrees and the thermostat opens at 94 IRRC. The water is escaping and as it enters atmospheric pressure it evaporates into steam, giving the impression that your engine is overheating.

Check the gauge when it starts to steam, it should read at half way or just above.

KP


Posted

Mr2 is a bit more complicated than that KP, you have to remember the distance it has to travel and nature of the layout. Also opening a hot pressurised rad cap :eek: do you have burns unit on speed dial?

they can be a total pig to bleed, make sure the tube in the frunk (front boot) is well above filler level, and run quite a lot of coolant through, also make sure the bleed valve is open enough.

i'm afraid you just have to keep going, you sure you haven't got a stuck thermostat or possible blown h/g ?

HTH,

Mo

Posted

lol you don't let it get hot before you release the cap. ;)

You turn the engine on for two minutes and squeeze the hoses. Turn it of and remove the cap, it won't be pressurised, just be careful.

I've done this on my GTi with great success, the general concept will still apply. :)

Posted

Please don't take this the wrong way......

As i said before the MR2 is a bit different, just one of my pet hates is people giving advise on forums with little or no practical experience of the exact problem on the exact model of vehicle.....

With the length of hose runs and the nature of the mid mount, the general concept will not apply in this case, if it did why would toyota R&D spend millions to get it right and insert bleed points and long bleed tubes to be raised as high as possible??... you cannot 'squeeze the hoses' as they run under the car to the front/covered by heat shields etc.

i do agree with some of what you said for a front mounted engine, but the mid mount is a whole different game.

Mo

Posted

Ok then.

This is the problem with trying to help in other forums....

Sorry I got it slightly if not completely wrong. This applied for a front engined car then, but not mid engined.

Posted

Thanks for the advice everyone. I ended up taking it to a mechanic and the water pump needs replacing, so getting that and the cambelt done at the same time. will be selling the engine beginning of 2011 to make way for a v6, but will sell better with new cambelt change. anyone going to the jap show next weekend? im going with my dad and girlfriend (dad has a mk3 roadster) travelling from luton if anyone is coming this way?

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