Yaris Glow Plug Fault

[Paul M]

Yaris d4d 2004, 127,000 previous fault free miles. The engine management lights been coming on for a few months, code P0380, cleared twice by local garage who could not find ongoing fault. Light returned and they said two glow plugs now definitely faulty and replaced, light came back after another week and the other two replaced, light came back a week later, took to Toyota in case misdiagnosed, they said glowplug fault, but all now working fine, "probably just needed to be cleared after replacing plugs", came back on a week later, this time local garage changed the glowplug relay, another week on, its just come back on. Car works fine, starts and runs as usual. Any ideas what to try next? I found one post mentioned changing the "bar", what's this? Local garage now says it may be ECU and if it is will be uneconomical to repair, but how can they tell and surely I'd have some effect on performance?

[chrsfrm]

Hi Paul or other members

Did you ever get this fixed? Mine is the same. Changed glow plus twice (£35 a time), relay once (£56)+ labour of course. Light still on!!!

No effect on performance or starting as yet but will effect the resale value if I cannot clear this up. Don't like the sound of an ECU fault though = expensive.

Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks

Chris

[Cyker]

Is the car also a bit more reluctant to start than usual? Might be the Battery.

[Madasafish]

Could be one the exhaust oxygen sensors has failed.. probably the front one...the preheat failed?

Really need to get fault codes read as lots of things can go worng and we are just guessing..

[chrsfrm]

Hi Guys

Thanks for suggestions.

Error codes have been read twice now, always indicating Glow Plug error, so that is the consistent fault.

Chris

[Khan Yaris2004]

hi i have toyota yaris 2004 d4d and the engine on. The garage have told me that the glow plugs are the problem. Any idea

Khan

[Geoff Peace]

Hi Guys

Thanks for suggestions.

Error codes have been read twice now, always indicating Glow Plug error, so that is the consistent fault.

Chris

What were the code numbers?

Regards Geoff Peace.

[mecheng46]

Anybody managed to solve this problem?

I am facing this problem with my '03 Yaris D-4D

[Neil robertsin]

If tthere is higher resistance than normal in the wiring loom or connectors caused by age or corrosion this can cause a misdiagnosis by the ECU which uses resistance values to determine faults.

[mecheng46]

I will have a look during the weekend for any corrosion on them connections.

From some research i found out that the only solution to this problem is with an ecu software update from toyota. I am wondering why there is nothing about it, like a recall or something, if this is an ecu software problem which definitely is not something that the user caused or can fix

[Neil robertsin]

Out of curiosity may I ask where you found the information about the software update.

[mecheng46]

Out of curiosity may I ask where you found the information about the software update.

I found it on this forum in the avensis club.

Still same problem, D-4D engine so I am assuming that is likely going to be the same solution.

''There is a technical service bulletin from Toyota affecting Avensis with 1CD 2.0 diesel engine for P0380, the fix is a new set of glow plugs and a software update for the engine ECU to prevent P0380 from remaining/re-occurring, so you may need to contact your local Toyota dealer to get the ECU software updated ''

Bulletin number for information is: EG-7013

[TomdeGuerre]

I see a lot of posts about these heater plug problems, specially with the warning light coming on. I know on some models of VW the warning light doubles as a warning light for the water trap in the fuel line being full up and I believe the 1.4 Toyota fuel filter incorporates a water trap in its base. Has anyone ever drained the water out of, or changed, a filter to see if it affects the light? A post I saw on youtube also mentioned DPF malfunction as a cause of the light coming on.

I see also the OP asks what the 'bar' associated with the plugs is and this is the bus bar or metal link that connects all the plugs together rather than having individual leads for each plug. With this connector in place you can't check the resistance of each plug individually - since even one plug with a high resistance will cause the system to flag up. Figures I see say each plug should measure .6 ohms. I've also seen it reported that, typically these systems are protected with a 50 amp fuse but it can draw transient loads up to 60 amps. This apparently can cause hairline fractures in the fuse link and, again, I wonder if any one has tried fitting a new fuse. A proper fuse mind you, not one of these Pound Store specials made of aluminium.

[mecheng46]

I see a lot of posts about these heater plug problems, specially with the warning light coming on. I know on some models of VW the warning light doubles as a warning light for the water trap in the fuel line being full up and I believe the 1.4 Toyota fuel filter incorporates a water trap in its base. Has anyone ever drained the water out of, or changed, a filter to see if it affects the light? A post I saw on youtube also mentioned DPF malfunction as a cause of the light coming on.

I see also the OP asks what the 'bar' associated with the plugs is and this is the bus bar or metal link that connects all the plugs together rather than having individual leads for each plug. With this connector in place you can't check the resistance of each plug individually - since even one plug with a high resistance will cause the system to flag up. Figures I see say each plug should measure .6 ohms. I've also seen it reported that, typically these systems are protected with a 50 amp fuse but it can draw transient loads up to 60 amps. This apparently can cause hairline fractures in the fuse link and, again, I wonder if any one has tried fitting a new fuse. A proper fuse mind you, not one of these Pound Store specials made of aluminium.

I cannot see how them things can fix the problem if the solution is an ECU software update. I am on about the glow plugs fuse, bar cracks, water under the fuel filter or in fuel line and corroded connections. Not being funny but if other people are solving their problem with an ECU software update then we are looking on the wrong things. I may be wrong though.

[TomdeGuerre]

Mike, I'm not saying you should be checking these things, if you know for sure that your car has never had the software update done then obviously that;s your first priority. I'm raising some points or some questions that might have some relevance to the subject of the post.

Another thing that occurred to me is faulty temperature sensing. I don't know whether there's a separate temperature sensor for the heater plug system or whether it shares the coolant temp sensor. I've never seen anyone posting about faulty temp sensors but again I wonder if that's another possibility in the mix.

[JamesBarry]

When my cars malfunction light came on, my local garage carried out a diagnostics check which they said indicated faulty glow plugs that required replacing. Shortly after leaving the car with them they phoned to tell me that the glow plugs had snapped off whilst trying to remove them. They said this is a fairly common problem and they would attempt to drill them out. This failed and they then said they would have to take off the cylinder head to remove them. Any comments welcome. The irony is that I never had any problems starting the car even in winter conditions and it ran well.

 

[David H48]

I have also experienced the same problem of the warning light being triggered by glow plug problems. (Toyota Yaris T4D, 1983). The fault first appeared  intermittent,   then later consistent. it seemed that atmospheric conditions, high pressure, (cold nights) correlated with the warning light showing, at times when the problem light was intermittent. There were no starting problems, but to get through a MOT I had to replace the glow plugs, 3 were replaced a 4th was not replaceable without drilling, but replacing the three was enough to remove the warning light so the 4th was left in place. One year later the engine light is back on, so I am about to find out what will be the situation regarding its next MOT.

[Stroudie]

Thanks for your post, David.  It ties in with my experience.  A year ago the warning light came on and our local garage tried to remove the glow plugs but they wouldn't come out.  So we left it and everything was fine.  A year later, in the recent cold snap, the light came on again and this time we went to the Toyota dealer.  Same diagnosis, but they warned us the glow plugs often won't come out and likely they would need to remove the cylinder head, etc - total cost £1600!! That's more than the car's worth, but having had 100,000 trouble free miles we're tempted to get it repaired.  The last two posts and my experience suggests the glow plugs are not the problem, so we'll see if we can get an ECU update and change the fuse, etc, as suggested by the helpful guys above.

[Madasafish]

The glow plugs normally corrode just above where they enter the cylinder head. It's exposed to water and salt via the bonnet. That is where the plugs snap - a combination of weakened metal and brute force trying to turn a corroded piece of metal. I removed mine due to a  presoaking with rust remover   (NOT WD40) for at least 24 hours , and then turning half a turn - reversing the turn and returning to clear the threads . This takes a LONG time...and most garages just try brute force.

 

Good luck with an ECU update - I doubt if it will make any difference.

[Perfection]

Just my thoughts combining with ppl comments here...

Someone mentioned BAR:  A probable cause of micro cracking will cause high resistance than usual. I would look at this as one of the possible cause.

Software updates: It is possible that Toyota has a very tight software limits that requires widening. They have done that in other cars as mentioned by someone here. A possible cause which requires this software fix is to compensate for replacement of glow plugs due different resistance to the original fitted parts AND possibly a combination of this plus aging electrical systems.

Someone also mentioned about checking for any corrosion on the electrical paths of the glow plugs system is definitely a worth ago.

This sort of problems generally will not or difficult to get fixed by dealer or garages when cars are so old as no one will be interested to investigate and find the root causes.

 

[imperial1952]

On 9/15/2015 at 12:09 PM, mecheng46 said:

I found it on this forum in the avensis club.

Still same problem, D-4D engine so I am assuming that is likely going to be the same solution.

''There is a technical service bulletin from Toyota affecting Avensis with 1CD 2.0 diesel engine for P0380, the fix is a new set of glow plugs and a software update for the engine ECU to prevent P0380 from remaining/re-occurring, so you may need to contact your local Toyota dealer to get the ECU software updated ''

Bulletin number for information is: EG-7013

Hi all, sorry i'm joining the party a bit late (4 years late in fact) but have just recently experienced this problem.....my car (an "05 Yaris d4d of Japanese manufacture) has been looked after mechanically over the 11 years and 130,000 miles of my ownership ie:- given a full service every 10,000 miles and has now done 160,000 miles with minor issues and then my P0380 MIL problem appeared.

To cut a long story short I ended up removing the head to extract the broken bits of Glow Plugs left after withdrawing the old Glow Plugs. At this point I also decided to give the head and valves a full de-coke and re-grind + cleaned the EGR valve and throttle body etc.

I then fitted everything back with 4 new Bosch Glow Plugs and removed the MIL fault code P0380. Everything was fine for a week and then the dreaded code P0380 appeared again.

What i would like to know is (before i spend £120/£150), has anybody asked a Toyota dealer to update the engine ECU as per the above comment from "mecheng46"......and did this permanently solve the problem?

Thanks

John

[Madasafish]

Check the glow plug relay works first.

[imperial1952]

Thanks for the information "Madasafish" it's much appreciated.

I have a wiring diagram of the car electrics and the Glow Plug Relay you refer to is noted as being K22 which receives power via an 80 amp fuse (which is OK).

Inside the Relay there is an ON/OFF switch which provides power to the 4 Glow Plugs Buzz Bar and a power feed to the Camshaft Position Sensor.

As i am mechanically and not electrically minded.......how would you suggest i could check this unit out?

I have a Fluke Digital Multimeter (xmas present 2 years ago and up to date it's only been out of it's box 3 times to check the continuity of household fuses).

Thanks

John

 

[Nick7]

On 10/7/2019 at 5:15 PM, imperial1952 said:

Thanks for the information "Madasafish" it's much appreciated.

I have a wiring diagram of the car electrics and the Glow Plug Relay you refer to is noted as being K22 which receives power via an 80 amp fuse (which is OK).

Inside the Relay there is an ON/OFF switch which provides power to the 4 Glow Plugs Buzz Bar and a power feed to the Camshaft Position Sensor.

As i am mechanically and not electrically minded.......how would you suggest i could check this unit out?

I have a Fluke Digital Multimeter (xmas present 2 years ago and up to date it's only been out of it's box 3 times to check the continuity of household fuses).

Thanks

John

 

Hello mate did you manage to get this sorted? 
 

I also have a mk1 55 plate Japanese built Yaris d4d and had this issue since purchase. ive been baffled by this issue and the p0380 code for nearly two years now? 
 

2 of my 4 plugs were replaced the other 2 I was told were tight and Could snap so we’re not replaced. Since then I’ve just had to keep clearing the light when it randomly pops up. Never had an issue starting the car first time even in snow. Usually the engine management light comes on after around a minute or so after the car starts up. Not instantly. Would be interested to know if you found a fix. ?

[Milky Bar Kid 1001]

They're a ba##ard if they're seized into the head, we've got one in that needed them changed we ended up snapping two and the other two we got drilled out by a specialist after taking the head off. !Removed! nightmare!!!!!