New Project

[mr ben]

Yes good job my friend

I am going to do my one to, Any advice on removing the trm would be helpful

[S2Sosmart]

Finally added to this got the doors done yesterday. Pics to follow,

Si

[S2Sosmart]

Right (Try to remember how to post pictures).

Took off the door panel to reveal this:

After taking off the moisture guard (The blue sheet) you could get to the outer door skin (You can see the factory deadening already on the door (Grey stuff in strips).

Then it's a case of blocking up all the holes in the door (And resealing the door to prevent moisture getting in !)

Before refitting there's a great big piece of foam on the inner door skin. I trimmed and trimmed it back until the inner skin would fit back. By the time I'd finished I might as well have removed all of the foam anyways TBF.

Anyways. The results. The doors now shut 'Like a Golf' to coin an advert. Nice solid thunk and the door actually shuts first time road noise is definitely reduced and the car feels more solid ( But that just might be a placebo effect lol). Any questions feel free.

Si

BTW The mastic type stuff around the moisture guard is possibly the gooeyist stuff I have EVER come across and took a very long & messy session to remove.

[sweet-dentist]

Just wondering....

Is it not so that the water from rain has to have the possibility to flow between the glass and rubber of the door-panel..INSIDE the door.

And exit down at the bottom of the door via little holes? So that's water coming through the rubber and glass ...

Or am I mistaken.

How about condensation? Inside the door? Well maybe it is better to have an insulation on the bare metal?

[S2Sosmart]

That's it Peter. The water will run inside the door (Between the 2 metal door skins) and drains out of holes in the bottom of the door. The point of the moisture guard is to stop condensation working its way into the car. By stripping away the plastic and replacing it with the deadening I've essentially killed 2 birds with 1 stone. The door is resealed & deadened at the same time.

Si

[sweet-dentist]

Thanks...

[PCM]

A very old post but still relevant.

The posted pictures have certainly helped me.

Sound deadening in an IQ can make a huge difference for not a huge cost.

[PCM]

I've sound-deadened about as much of my car as I can reasonably do. 

It does seem to make a huge difference.

Are there any IQ 'sound hotspots' I should check to make sure it's as good as it can be?

 

[Antonio2]

Hi Piers.

Can't help thinking if the area below the gear-stick / centre console area could be a vulnerable sound hotspot.

I believe the IQ uses cables to connect the gear lever to a lever on the gearbox itself for the action of gear changing.

There must be an entry hole in this area, where the gear selector cables enter the cabin. 

This could allow noise from the tyres / transmission / engine noise etc  to enter the cabin - I'm only guessing though !

 

 

[PCM]

19 minutes ago, Antonio2 said:

Hi Piers.

Can't help thinking if the area below the gear-stick / centre console area could be a vulnerable sound hotspot.

I believe the IQ uses cables to connect the gear lever to a lever on the gearbox itself for the action of gear changing.

There must be an entry hole in this area, where the gear selector cables enter the cabin. 

This could allow noise from the tyres / transmission / engine noise etc  to enter the cabin - I'm only guessing though !

 

 

Interesting!

I was thinking about that but could not see how to remove the side(?) panels.

Plastic Trim is tricky when you don't know how it comes off!

I did look at the Toyota Manual but nothing obvious came to sight. 

[flash22]

Ideally, you need to sound deaden the outer skin of the door (150-200mm) square and also deaden around the speaker opening (between the speaker mount and the door)

 

Think of a metal sheet as a drum skin, if you hit it is will vibrate, now hold the centre of the skin then hit it - the skin will not Reverberate as it is dampened

[PCM]

1 hour ago, flash22 said:

Ideally, you need to sound deaden the outer skin of the door (150-200mm) square and also deaden around the speaker opening (between the speaker mount and the door)

 

Think of a metal sheet as a drum skin, if you hit it is will vibrate, now hold the centre of the skin then hit it - the skin will not Reverberate as it is dampened

Thank you.

Yes... the one area I have not done is... the outer skin of each door.  😞

I did try, followed instructions, but just could not get them off.

Scared of breaking them also.

If anyone has a solution or can help, I will gladly pay.

 

[flash22]

1 hour ago, PCM said:

Thank you.

Yes... the one area I have not done is... the outer skin of each door.  😞

I did try, followed instructions, but just could not get them off.

Scared of breaking them also.

If anyone has a solution or can help, I will gladly pay.

 

??????

Cant get them off ? Outer door skin is accessed through the door opening

[PCM]

26 minutes ago, flash22 said:

??????

Cant get them off ? Outer door skin is accessed through the door opening

Could not get the door card off ( not the actual doors).

Unless there's a better way?

[flash22]

The door card is simple, remove the 3 bits of trim and the screw cover in the door pull, then the 4 screws , the rest is just clipped in place. I'm sure there are a few videos on YouTube.

You will find the disassembly instructions under \rm11t4e\repair2\html\frame_rm000001ce101fx.html