Rav4 Electrical Mystery--Help Me, Rav4 Gurus!

[hedgehog57]

Hi, my stepson's car didn't start, so he and a friend (neither of which knows anything about cars) attempted to jump it. After several attempts, it failed to start. When I got there, the Battery was dead. I replaced the Battery, and the starter turned, but no start. It looked low on gas, we added gas. Starter turned but the car didn't start. I looked at the fuses and found a 15 amp ignition fuse that was blown. We replaced the fuse, and the car started up, but the engine didn't rev up (as if there was no linkage to the accelerator pedal) and a lot of the electrical stuff didn't work. I found some other fuses blown, and replaced them (all mini-fuses) and the accelerator function came back up.

So at this point, the car will start and drive, and the headlights, interior dome light all work, but the following items DON'T work: (1) backup lights; (2) taillights; (3) turn signals; (4) electric windows; (5) interior gauge lighting; (6) radio; (7) brake lights. This list of things may not be all, but it should give some idea what the malfunction is.

I'm starting to think that the kids may have reversed the cables when trying to jumpstart it. Can't be sure, because i wasn't there, but I suspect that something other than normal operation may have blown the mini-fuses.

There are a number of apparent relays, and "jcase" fuses in the fusebox in the engine compartment -- I am not familiar with them and didn't test them (because I couldn't figure out how to remove them). There are some minifuses in the fusebox at the driver's left knee, and I replaced several of them but they didn't appear blown, and their replacement didn't fix anything.

My understanding from reading the wiring diagrams as best I can is that there are several "fusible links", and that the box attached to the positive Battery cable is a "fusible link block". I don't know if any of these are blown, but it would seem to make sense that something is blown somewhere that energizes the items that aren't working, listed above. I have some questions:

1. Based on the above, is it possible that part of the fusible links in the fusible link block attached to the positive cable are blown? If so, are they serviceable by me individually, or do I have to buy the entire fusible link block and replace it?

2. Maybe I should have asked this first -- is there anyone so expert in this stuff out there that the solution to my problem is obvious? Like maybe the 40A AM1 fuse is blown? Or something else? If someone recognizes my problem and can direct me to a simple fix, that'd be great! But I see lots of things on the wiring diagram that I haven't yet located physically on the car, so if there is a part that needs to be replaced, say, a fusible link or a fuse, or a relay or something, can you also tell me where to look for it on the car?

3. Assuming that there is no silver bullet available as in question 2, can someone tell me how to replace Jcase fuses and relays in the fuse box? I yanked on them pretty firmly and they didn't move -- is there something I'm not doing right?

4. Am I going to need to have dealer parts for this fix, or can I just snug up to an autozone and buy the parts at retail?

Thanks, really appreciate it. If someone answers this, can you also send the answer to my email at rjjarvis@yahoo.com? I'm going to catch a train down to Williamsburg, Va where the car is located tomorrow morning, and I won't be able to log onto this bulletin board.

I appreciate any input.

[Davrav]

Hi, my stepson's car didn't start, so he and a friend (neither of which knows anything about cars) attempted to jump it. After several attempts, it failed to start. When I got there, the battery was dead. I replaced the battery, and the starter turned, but no start. It looked low on gas, we added gas. Starter turned but the car didn't start. I looked at the fuses and found a 15 amp ignition fuse that was blown. We replaced the fuse, and the car started up, but the engine didn't rev up (as if there was no linkage to the accelerator pedal) and a lot of the electrical stuff didn't work. I found some other fuses blown, and replaced them (all mini-fuses) and the accelerator function came back up.

So at this point, the car will start and drive, and the headlights, interior dome light all work, but the following items DON'T work: (1) backup lights; (2) taillights; (3) turn signals; (4) electric windows; (5) interior gauge lighting; (6) radio; (7) brake lights. This list of things may not be all, but it should give some idea what the malfunction is.

I'm starting to think that the kids may have reversed the cables when trying to jumpstart it. Can't be sure, because i wasn't there, but I suspect that something other than normal operation may have blown the mini-fuses.

There are a number of apparent relays, and "jcase" fuses in the fusebox in the engine compartment -- I am not familiar with them and didn't test them (because I couldn't figure out how to remove them). There are some minifuses in the fusebox at the driver's left knee, and I replaced several of them but they didn't appear blown, and their replacement didn't fix anything.

My understanding from reading the wiring diagrams as best I can is that there are several "fusible links", and that the box attached to the positive battery cable is a "fusible link block". I don't know if any of these are blown, but it would seem to make sense that something is blown somewhere that energizes the items that aren't working, listed above. I have some questions:

1. Based on the above, is it possible that part of the fusible links in the fusible link block attached to the positive cable are blown? If so, are they serviceable by me individually, or do I have to buy the entire fusible link block and replace it?

2. Maybe I should have asked this first -- is there anyone so expert in this stuff out there that the solution to my problem is obvious? Like maybe the 40A AM1 fuse is blown? Or something else? If someone recognizes my problem and can direct me to a simple fix, that'd be great! But I see lots of things on the wiring diagram that I haven't yet located physically on the car, so if there is a part that needs to be replaced, say, a fusible link or a fuse, or a relay or something, can you also tell me where to look for it on the car?

3. Assuming that there is no silver bullet available as in question 2, can someone tell me how to replace Jcase fuses and relays in the fuse box? I yanked on them pretty firmly and they didn't move -- is there something I'm not doing right?

4. Am I going to need to have dealer parts for this fix, or can I just snug up to an autozone and buy the parts at retail?

Thanks, really appreciate it. If someone answers this, can you also send the answer to my email at rjjarvis@yahoo.com? I'm going to catch a train down to Williamsburg, Va where the car is located tomorrow morning, and I won't be able to log onto this bulletin board.

I appreciate any input.

Hi Hedgehog.

Would be helpful to anyone who may be able to help if we knew what vehicle you are having problems with. Can you give us some details?

[bothwell_buyer]

Guess somethings been cooked. What age is the car?

[Fusionracing62]

Hi

Did you manage to rectify this problem? We are having exactly the same problem with our 2002 RAV4 GX D4D and would really appreciate any advice/ help with fixing the issue.

Thanks

[Parts-King]

If you jump start it with the Battery leads the wrong way round it will certainly blow the main fusible link in the fuse box, I dont know what car you have but they range from 40 amps to 100 amps. They are usually bolted into the fuse box and you have to turn the fusebox upside down and unbolt the fuse from the fusebox.

Kingo

[Fusionracing62]

Hi Kingo

I have just spoken to my husband and he said that it is possible that he might have mixed up the Battery leads when using the Rav to jump start his van. He thought that the fusible link was the little box on the side of the Battery. Is this not the case?

Do you happen to know how much a new fusible link is?

The car is a RAV 4 2002 2.0 D4D GX.

Thanks so much for your help.

[Roadwrangler]

Something I've always been taught when jump starting cars, never go Battery to Battery with both jump leads! Your Red lead Batt+ to Batt+ is ok, with your Black Negative lead, Batt- on car providing the jump, but on the car with the flat Battery, the negative lead should be clipped onto an engine bracket or bolt head etc on the engine its self. Doing it like this bypasses any potential corroded earth straps (high resistance joints) and gives the engine the best chance of starting, it also acts as a bit of a filter giving a little protection to the more sensitive components.

I'd also recommend putting a surge/spike protector accross the batt terminals on the battery of the car providing the jump, once the dead engine starts, its alternator can kind of go into overdrive having to not only provide electrical power for the engine but also max charge into the dead battery, you can get some pretty good spikes that can damage sensitive electronics. Likewise the car providing the jump, your alternator will have been kicking out more juice tyring to charge the dead battery through the jump leads, once the leads are disconnected yours can spike before it senses the extra load is gone, the surge protector handles any spikes. I think you can even get jump leads with a surge protector built in now.

Regards Austin..

[gsk]

Hi did anyone locate a new fusible block , l need one and can't find anywhere that sells them

 

Thanks gsk