Lambda/o2/oygen Sensors

[GJM]

Back up with this one, Rav been laid up...however was looking to get back on the road.

I had already got a couple of sensors and did change one tonight but still got both fault codes.

What is meant by the heater coil exaclty, part of the denso sensor or something seperate altogether?

Car is running rich for sure, can smell it and the car was stalling as you draw to a junction when last used.

Really not sure about testing for ohms etc, can anyone guide on that or should I try changing the sensor at the other side first?

[rpaterson]

If it's 'just' the heater circuit that's knackered, doesn't it just mean that the fuelling takes a couple of minutes longer to go closed-loop?

My wife's engine light has been on for about three years with a heater circuit failure and it's passed every emission test.

[GJM]

Anyone advise on this as keen to get Raving again :)

[GJM]

Read somewhere when you change the sensor they need cycled on/off a few times, is this the case....I already have both sensors but dont want to go changing the other if it's a waste of time

[GJM]

Use your multimeter to measure the resistance between the two black wires. Expect about 15 Ohms for the bottom two for DENSO units. Open circuit = Fail.

Ok checked the old one that came off and it didn't read, new one I fitted read 15 Ohms...should that not mean the fault would clear or should I just go and check the other bottom one and go ahead and replace that and see if the codes clear and light goes out

[doncross]

Just paid £95 each for mine,Toyota wanted £197 each

[Joylove]

Ok checked the old one that came off and it didn't read, new one I fitted read 15 Ohms...should that not mean the fault would clear or should I just go and check the other bottom one and go ahead and replace that and see if the codes clear and light goes out

I would check all the sensors in the same way. There are two 15Rs and two 4Rs.

Once all heaters are in order, pull the Battery for 10 minutes to clear the adaptations. The light "should" extinguish by itself, since the test is run each time the car starts, but since my 2001 didn't get a Check Engine light and I could only tell if it was set from Techstream, I'm not 100% sure.

A cheap code reader for say £15 might be a good tool for your toolbox.

[GJM]

I have a couple of code readers, I just expected at least one of the faults to clear when reset using it but both codes came back...will check the other sensors next time get some time in the garage

[bitman]

i just used 1 4r to fake the ecu and will replace the sensor later.

[GJM]

Not sure what you mean bitman, I've just fitted the second sensor....so that's both replaced now that were not showing 15ohms....yet still the light comes back, even if clear the codes with bluepoint reader.

Any ideas at all guys?