Tuning Chip Review From Germany

[Crasstoe]

Mine is the one for the 2.0 D4D, but they do a separate chip for each of the diesel engines. And costs are shown on the first page along with advertised gains (but i cant vouch for the numbers as I have no access to a rolling road)

[mad midge]

Ok thanks. So my next question is has anybody bought the standard race chip? If so is it any good.

[Crasstoe]

I don't think anyone has - obviously I can only vouch for the Pro. I don't believe the Standard is as tunable but can still be switched higher or lower (6 settings I think). If you have any doubts the guys there are more than happy to answer questions however unless your German is good I would recommend email ;)

[sponge55]

for me, mpg is more important then extra bph and torque.

but cant seem to find out anywhere online what the difference in mpg between the standard and pro box is.

[Daveyonthemove]

Because the MPG improvement is not the main reason for the development, its just a bonus as result of better fuelling and power.

All out power is always going to improve for everyone because we are all capable of driving a car as fast as possible, but not everyone can drive economically, so i doubt they could post legitimate figures without a lawsuit from someone expecting to drive faster and get better MPG at the same time.

The way i see any remap or tuning box, is its a PERFORMANCE modification first, and any improvement in economy is an added bonus. If you just want better MPG, then buy good quality fuel, service the car regularly, check tyre pressures, strip excess weight, and drive everywhere in the right gear at the right revs. That way you won't need the extra power anyway as you won't be going above 70mph and racing away from lights.

[Cyker]

The only reason you could get better mpg is if it boosts the torque enough so you could shift earlier and/or drive in a higher gear (e.g. I usually do 30mph in 4th gear but when it gets cold enough I find I can do it in 5th without labouring the engine too much due to the increased air mass)

[romulon]

The only reason you could get better mpg is if it boosts the torque enough so you could shift earlier and/or drive in a higher gear (e.g. I usually do 30mph in 4th gear but when it gets cold enough I find I can do it in 5th without labouring the engine too much due to the increased air mass)

I believe it's air density (i.e. mass per unit volume e.g. Kg/m3) that increases as air temperature drops.

An interesting observation, though I can't claim to have noticed it myself.

I would have thought modern diesel engine controller systems compensated for air temperature when calculating combustion parameters such as fuel injection timing and quantity.

I have noticed that a 'run-in' (and fully warmed-up) diesel engine tolerates very low revs better than than a new (or cold) engine.

Tony.

[davethefish]

For those who asked, here are a couple of smaller pics of the Race Chip Pro, it arrived this afternoon. Only problem being, my car is with Toyota and my tools are in the boot so I can't open it up yet. I will though tomorrow, I can borrow some tools from work.

Standby to further.

[Crasstoe]

Did you receive a pack of Haribo?

[davethefish]

Did you receive a pack of Haribo?

Yes, and they were consumed with great gusto. Ha ha. And yes, it's like a go kart, 1st gear gets off the line better that my SR, ha ha.

[lazer_mjj]

Where about do the small plugs connect in the engine bay?

[Crasstoe]

Remove the plastic engine cover, and its a small connector on the bottom left of the engine (if you were viewing it from the top)

[davethefish]

From these same guys? Let me know how you get on - obviously the dials have been changed on mine with advice from the tech heads there, I'll be interested to see how you find it without tweaking

Also, would you be able to open it up when you get it and tell me what your dials are set to as standard (so I have a reference point for where mine are in relation)

Hi Crasstoe. FYI, see the pic for original settings, it looks like '9' (left) and 'B' (right) but it's hard to make out.

On initial driving with standard settings I found there didn't 'appear' to be any difference. I then notched the left dial to 'B' and there seemed to be more grunt from about 2200 rpm but not an amount that I thought WOOO THE SPEED. I suppose it was a subtle change and I didn't go far. I'll be doing longer journeys soon, I just recall my last turbo petrol remap took 24 hrs / 100 miles to bed in, so to speak, and that change was like driving a different car.

I have a couple of questions for you:

1] What did you do to get boost from 1600 RPM?

2] How did you communicate with their tech heads and what advice did they give you (exact settings?).

Thanks.

[Crasstoe]

I emailed them (technic@racechip.de)

I just turned the dial to B and it worked for me. Remember I do have a different engine to you so you may need to tweak further, also you did buy the box for the 2.2 not the 2.0?

[lazer_mjj]

Any clue to what "B" gives you??? Its not like an all out blast mode that kills engine in a week?

[davethefish]

Crasstoe, cheers for the e-mail address. I definately bought the 2.2 version.

Lazer, B has hardly made a difference on mine so I wouldn't imagine it's not a powerful setting. If you look at the set up, it is actually only three or four clicks from lowest setting.

Thanks all.

[Crasstoe]

I was tempted to turn mine right up :P Then I read (somewhere) that turning tuning boxes all the way up could result in engine warning lights!

[davethefish]

I was tempted to turn mine right up :P Then I read (somewhere) that turning tuning boxes all the way up could result in engine warning lights!

In the instructions it advises not to turn straight up to full, but doesn't say you can't! Hmmmm, might be worth a play, if I need to risk getting a light reset it might worth the experience. Crasstoe, did Racechip advise you on settings for full power, best economy, or anything else (and what are they on your box?) cheers.

[Crasstoe]

They didn't advise on the setting for maximum output, only how to increase the output as they believe every car is different, and cannot guarantee what setting will deliver what on each car, so rather than say "this will be the maximum" they simply tell you how to get there. I plan on putting mine up a few notches more to see what happens, trial and error I'm afraid.

[davethefish]

Right I'm set to 0 - 0 for the way home, only about 9 miles, some 50 mph. We'll see how it goes!

[Crasstoe]

I have no idea what that will do?! Pictures of black plumes come to mind :o

[Daveyonthemove]

I would expect the DPF to catch the black soot, if you don't go into limp mode.

Keep us updated.

[davethefish]

I have no idea what that will do?! Pictures of black plumes come to mind :o

I would expect the DPF to catch the black soot, if you don't go into limp mode.

Keep us updated.

Ok, 0 - 0 was quite good, still appeared economical on cruising speeds, 30 and 40 mph. It pulled well in 3rd and 4th, like a refined, smoothing sensation going through the gears. Then I got home...

I was locked out...

So I opened the bonnet and wacked it up to (what I assume is) full power. I took it round the block, 1st and 2nd...

Savage, is one word I'd use. You could feel the suspension struggling to keep the a-r-s-e off the floor, incredibly strong pulling. I literally drove a few hundred yards and thought, "that's it!". I'm going back out later to footie, similar drive to work about 9 miles so it's going to get a better run to see if it can handle it.

Finally, it reminds me of my precious vRS (all of them, memories), yes, I used to be a Briskodian.

[Crasstoe]

What did you turn them up to? Good to see its as 'savage' as I would have hoped in a SR180

[davethefish]

I think I put it on 7 - 7.