D4D Engine Stops On Traffic Lights

[t-spiritpete]

Here's an update:

I borrowed a MAF from my friend's car -> did not help.

I bought and installed a secondhand SCV -> did not help.

Car does not start at all now! When I turn the key it almost starts after two seconds, then the starter only runs but it will not start. If I try to turn the key again, same story. The fuel will not go into the cylinders for some reason.

Now I'm getting desperate since I'm rather short with money and cannot afford to take the car to Toyota service.

Hi mate sorry to hear that this is ongoing, this is a long shot, even though your car is cranking over try it again with jumper leads from another car with it's engine revving.

It won't cost you anything and it may fire up, try it and let me know the result..

Good luck .... Pete.

[AveOnPop]

I got it running two days ago using jumper leads from another car. It took about an hour or so before it started. Then it run OK until I got home. When I tried to start again, no go.

[t-spiritpete]

I got it running two days ago using jumper leads from another car. It took about an hour or so before it started. Then it run OK until I got home. When I tried to start again, no go.

Me again, did you say you changed the fuel filter, if not I would as it seems to be struggling to get fuel there are two filters one under the bonnet and one in the fuel tank. also a good dose of water in the fuel would cause similar problems.

Pete.

[AveOnPop]

Yes, I changed the fuel filter under the bonnet last summer.

Another in the fuel tank? Can it be replaced?

I don't know but I have a funny feeling that there's air in the fuel system. Any methods to get that away?

Have to say this: the problem is ONLY when trying to start and if the car runs, on idle occationally. I runs perfectly on roads.

[igormus]

I got it running two days ago using jumper leads from another car. It took about an hour or so before it started. Then it run OK until I got home. When I tried to start again, no go.

Hello Mate

I feel yr pain now -- but do not give up -- we are all with you !!!

Look -- the engine is stopped because of fuel is shut off by SCV only. In case you are 100% sure with 2nd hand ones bought/installed -- then consider investigation of the feeder wire of these SCV + check with el circuit. I repeat the diesel in running condition can only be stopped by SCV because this is their task. Cheers/Igor

[AveOnPop]

What should the SCV wire do/not do?

One is minus and one is plus, right?

When starting, the plus should go on?

Is this correct?

[igormus]

What should the SCV wire do/not do?

One is minus and one is plus, right?

When starting, the plus should go on?

Is this correct?

the wire transfers an el signal from starting key and remains in ON (open) position unless you do switch the engine OFF. now i can consider two issues -- with ignition switch in the on the steering wheel and respective feeding wire partly cut off --- you explain that this happened when the engine is warm . may be you have an issue with ignition switch. Igor

[AveOnPop]

OK, I now go to the garage now and check the SCV lead. Will update soon.

[AveOnPop]

When turning the key, the SCV lead plus wire is activated. So it appears this part of the system works OK.

[AveOnPop]

as to air escaping -- you did not mention whether or not you ve released an air escaping screw before priming this membrane -- if not the air is still in the system even minor part criating headache at idle.

cheers

Igor

Igor, what screw do you mean? How to escape air from the system?

Thanks!

[igormus]

as to air escaping -- you did not mention whether or not you ve released an air escaping screw before priming this membrane -- if not the air is still in the system even minor part criating headache at idle.

cheers

Igor

Igor, what screw do you mean? How to escape air from the system?

Thanks!

OK -- find the fuel filter cylinder type and also find the membrane booster pump on the top. check with filter housing and find a special screw or bolt on the body from the line of diesel suction into the pump. once found it - follow these steps:

- have this scrcew released on even 1/2 or its turn;

- having primed the upper membrane you should reach the moment when a pure diesel will be appeared from this released crew. Once you see that clearly, then re-tight this scrcew;

- put ignition key in ON position when all lights are ON on the dashboard ---> what does it mean -- you start to feed both SCV with 12V and at this moment they are both are in open position -- what does it mean -- they enable diesel to be sucted from the filter into the pump. Having remained key in ON -- you should prime the membrane unless you feel het stroke becomes hard -- what does it mean? -- this means both pump and suction line are fully filled with diesel.

- besides -- be focused on the pump body, as well --- on the side of it you will see a bolt head (hexagon)--this isan air escaping plug for pump --- you can also double check it having slightly release it -- you must to see diesel coming from the bolt -- this is a signal the pump is full with diesel.

Now retight it and clean an area from poured diesel.

Now you can crank the engine and try to start it.

CHeers/Igor

[igormus]

When slowing down to traffic lights etc I push the clutch pedal. 90% of the times the engine idles normally. But from time to time the engine just stops. So, I need to restart :(

Sometimes it starts only barely, fortunately the battery has not gone totally empty. But it could take couple of tries before it starts.

The issue is only mainly while the engine is warm, but it has happened on cold too.

This has been going on for some months already. I've changed fuel filter, air filter and sparks, cleaned EGR valve and cleaned MAF sensor (well, MAF is not easy to clean completely).

According to dealer the engine does not have separate idle valve. Diagnostics shows no errors, that might be because the problem is not there always.

I'm getting desperate. What might be the problem? Anyone? It's annoying that the engine just stops while idle.

------------

OK as visible this issue is full of mysteries.

We must also consider the following:

the common rail pipe has pressure sensor from its edge and if pressure is in limits then this sensor gives OK to work to the ECU ans ECU gives a command to each injector solenoid to admiss diesel into the cylinder. but if this pressure is not CONSTANT but acts as sinusoid then you might have the same result. but this pressure is created by the pump and the end of the circle reaches own start :)-- OK check with air and revert -- will think further what to do with this engine --Cheers/Igor

PS -- may be due to sensor wire poor contact -- check it as well

[AveOnPop]

Thanks Igor,

I'll try that air escaping method hopefully tomorrow after work.

For instance today when I tried to crank, the button on top of fuel filter felt a little soft and became hard after couple of pushes. Does this suggest there might be air in the system or should it do this every time?

[igormus]

Thanks Igor,

I'll try that air escaping method hopefully tomorrow after work.

For instance today when I tried to crank, the button on top of fuel filter felt a little soft and became hard after couple of pushes. Does this suggest there might be air in the system or should it do this every time?

the air is and injection system enemy (see above explanations)

the top membrane will become soft after a while -- it is normal -- that is removed by pump working.

I ve forgoten to say - that when priming the membrane -- pull the fuel rack on the pump to a max diesel supply - this will allow the system to push an air fastly. we all wait for your actions matey --good luck

Igor

[cmia]

just unplug MAF

and drive!

if broken MAF engine wont stall.

[AveOnPop]

cmia,

Would do that but it's not that simple. As I mentioned earlier the problem is there with unplugged and plugged MAF :ffs:

I'll be able to investigate the problem tomorrow evening and will update after that.

[acetip]

Thanks Igor,

I'll try that air escaping method hopefully tomorrow after work.

For instance today when I tried to crank, the button on top of fuel filter felt a little soft and became hard after couple of pushes. Does this suggest there might be air in the system or should it do this every time?

the air is and injection system enemy (see above explanations)

the top membrane will become soft after a while -- it is normal -- that is removed by pump working.

I ve forgoten to say - that when priming the membrane -- pull the fuel rack on the pump to a max diesel supply - this will allow the system to push an air fastly. we all wait for your actions matey --good luck

Igor

surprised tooyota are not auto bleeding,had them back in the 1990 .

but then rotary fuel pumps,so maybe with common rail this is not possible with higher pressure.

just found up a haynes workshop manual i brought when i had a mondeo tdci,this system is self bleeeding/priming.

[igormus]

Thanks Igor,

I'll try that air escaping method hopefully tomorrow after work.

For instance today when I tried to crank, the button on top of fuel filter felt a little soft and became hard after couple of pushes. Does this suggest there might be air in the system or should it do this every time?

the air is and injection system enemy (see above explanations)

the top membrane will become soft after a while -- it is normal -- that is removed by pump working.

I ve forgoten to say - that when priming the membrane -- pull the fuel rack on the pump to a max diesel supply - this will allow the system to push an air fastly. we all wait for your actions matey --good luck

Igor

surprised tooyota are not auto bleeding,had them back in the 1990 .

but then rotary fuel pumps,so maybe with common rail this is not possible with higher pressure.

The minor air remained in the system is beiing bleeded by the pump and returning line into the fuel tank. The pump is divided with rail by non-return valve (delivery valve)-- otherwise the pump will not be able to arise 1000 bars.

cheers/Igor

[cmia]

cmia,

Would do that but it's not that simple. As I mentioned earlier the problem is there with unplugged and plugged MAF :ffs:

I'll be able to investigate the problem tomorrow evening and will update after that.

you dont understand,

The ecu has default air to fuel ratio..

eg

if the ecu does not detect the MAF signal then it will revert back to the preloaded generic information that toyota stuck on the base man.

If the car is still stalling or struggling with it disconnected the problem is elsewhere.

I would be tempted to look at the inlet manifold switch or the IAT.

which engine has your car got ?

this way you can rule out if you have a faulty MAF.

[AveOnPop]

OK, here's latest and very odd news:

First, I bought a new multitester, because I was not sure if the other one was working properly. Then I bought a Battery charger because the Battery was nearly empty due to starting. Third thing I bought was a new fuel filter.

1. So, I tested the MAF and SCV and the result was: they both operate exactly as they should! My multimeter was broken!

2. I recharged the Battery for 16 hours. Reconnected it to the vehicle and BANG, the car was running in a perfect way! The alternator was giving over 14 Volts to the battery.

3. Changed the fuel filter. The old was, changed last summer was quite dirty. The lower O-ring was not there! I must have missed it on the last assembly. Maybe some air got into the system through that, not sure.

For me, it appears the battery (battery bought only about two months ago) voltage went too low because of the fact that I've used the Webasto heater twice a day. I don't know but I guess the system is rather picky for voltage changes, right?

If I have to disconnect the battery and recharge it say, once a month, I'm very happy.

Will update if the problem will come back very soon.

Thanks for everyone helping on this, you've been great!

[t-spiritpete]

OK, here's latest and very odd news:

First, I bought a new multitester, because I was not sure if the other one was working properly. Then I bought a battery charger because the battery was nearly empty due to starting. Third thing I bought was a new fuel filter.

1. So, I tested the MAF and SCV and the result was: they both operate exactly as they should! My multimeter was broken!

2. I recharged the battery for 16 hours. Reconnected it to the vehicle and BANG, the car was running in a perfect way! The alternator was giving over 14 Volts to the battery.

3. Changed the fuel filter. The old was, changed last summer was quite dirty. The lower O-ring was not there! I must have missed it on the last assembly. Maybe some air got into the system through that, not sure.

For me, it appears the battery (battery bought only about two months ago) voltage went too low because of the fact that I've used the Webasto heater twice a day. I don't know but I guess the system is rather picky for voltage changes, right?

If I have to disconnect the battery and recharge it say, once a month, I'm very happy.

Will update if the problem will come back very soon.

Thanks for everyone helping on this, you've been great!

Hi mate that's brilliant, I even feel the relief myself. Well ..... not a nice learning curve but you got there in the end and I expect you know a lot more about how your Avensis works than when you started out.

Best regards Pete.

[limiter]

My d4d corolla was having problems similar to yours,carried it to 4 different mechanics none could sort it so i dropped it to the main dealers.They rectified the problem by cleaning all the earth points for the engine,a new Battery terminal and added an extra earth lead from the Battery to the car body.Car runs perfect since

[Aamir2892]

These SCV's can they be removed and put back in? They are on the fuel pump themselves?

[igormus]

These SCV's can they be removed and put back in? They are on the fuel pump themselves?

Correct -- they are

cheers

[superj]

Have the same issues with a stalling engine at traffic lights.

My drive is an Avensis 2007 D4D, 93kW Diesel.

If I replace the SCV, does it have to be programmed to the ECU, or just replacing it?

Thanks