Timing Belt Broken

[hasky]

Hi, im new to this forum, my carina problem bring me here, jus like to say hi to all first.

ok, it started with the first snow, i thought i had antifreeze in my car,

When i turned the key the car started for 5 mins as i let it run to warm up and it was still parkd up. my engine made a loud noise and cut off, then after that it didnt start at all, it was turning over but wouldnt start,

today after a month or so as the weather was ok and all the snows cleared i tried to investigate, i rekoned it was the timing belt so i removed rocker cover, plastics and it was confirmed the timing belt was broken, also i noticed the water pump is leaking aswell.

is it worth trying to replace the broken timing belt, iv started taking off the pulley, alternator, but now i want somone to help me before i try to replace it can someone advise is it worth replacing as i think the timing must have missplaced, not sure, please can someone guide me on how to replace the belt, thanks

[jeffrosie]

What engine do you have??

If its the 3SFE, then its a non interferance engine, so you should be OK. Also if the water pump is leaking - good time to replace it.

A series engine, then I dont know but someone here will and point you on the correct direction.

[hasky]

hi, Engine is 1.6 petrol, 4AFE.

[Josh_]

7-AFE is non-interference, and as far as I know it's basically the same design as the 4-AFE with different displacement, so it should be non-interference as well.

[hasky]

so does that mean i can put the new timing belt straigh on? without marking anything?

[trev3635]

No, you will need to align the timing marks on the camshaft pully and on the crankshaft pully. Change the water pump first tho' it's easier with the timing belt and aux. taken off. Water pump is about £20-£30 and timing belt kit should be anywhere between £40-£100. It's pretty straight forward to fit a new one.

If i was you i would give toyota a ring to find out for definate whether it is a non interference engine before you get the belt.

After you have fitted the new belt give it a compression test to make sure there's no nastiness and listen out for any tappety, rattely noise's.

[hasky]

hi thanks for the replies. iv googled the 4AFE engine, and everyones confirmed its a non interference engine, im going to have a go on replacing the timing belt, its the first time im replacing a timing belt, can anyone advise me how to go about replacing my carinas timing belt.

thanks

[trev3635]

Since it's your first time i suggest getting yourself a haynes manual just in case you get stuck. One bit of advice is put a jack under the sump with a bit of wood and take the wieght of the engine then take the o/s top engine mount off. You will find it a lot easier. Any Qs or if you get stuck just ask and someone will help. Good luck with it.

[hasky]

yeh thanks iv already downloaded the haynes manual this morning.

[trev3635]

Spam post deleted

Hi, what problem are you having with your timing belt as you did'nt say?

Why was this edited???

Edited January 21, 2011 by trev3635

[hasky]

hi, jus got around to fitting the new timing belt on today, i fitted it on successfully but unfortunately it doesnt start up, i think the timing moved out of place, what can i do how can i set the timing again?

please can someone help

thanks

[petroleum]

Hi mate if your still stuck send me your e mail address and i will forward you a diagram drawing of your timing belt timming marks and part of the instructions that unfortunatley are partly unclear at the end of the copy my e mail is peterj1945@gmail.com I have tried to contact your email address personaly but it did not work

You need to make sure that the self tensioner spring is still good and that once you have placed the belt on and you turn the engine 1 full turn that you then let the tensioner fall back onto the belt tensiniing the belt on by its own means of the spring and then tighten it back up If you you carry out these things and you manage to line the marks up there should be no reason why the job done should not be succsssful

[acetip]

Hi, im new to this forum, my carina problem bring me here, jus like to say hi to all first.

ok, it started with the first snow, i thought i had antifreeze in my car,

When i turned the key the car started for 5 mins as i let it run to warm up and it was still parkd up. my engine made a loud noise and cut off, then after that it didnt start at all, it was turning over but wouldnt start,

today after a month or so as the weather was ok and all the snows cleared i tried to investigate, i rekoned it was the timing belt so i removed rocker cover, plastics and it was confirmed the timing belt was broken, also i noticed the water pump is leaking aswell.

is it worth trying to replace the broken timing belt, iv started taking off the pulley, alternator, but now i want somone to help me before i try to replace it can someone advise is it worth replacing as i think the timing must have missplaced, not sure, please can someone guide me on how to replace the belt, thanks

if your engine had no antifreeze in it then your water pump would have frozen up.

this is the only moving part in the cooling system, so soon as you turned the engine over when starting,then the impellers would have broken off and damaged the seal in the pump as well,but would not have leaked untill thawed out.

im not trying to be funny here.but you do mean the timing belt has gone and not the altermator/water pump belt that could fail if pump frozen up.

[hasky]

hi, thanks petroleum (peter) iv sent u an email,plz can you reply, thanks

[hasky]

hi, thanks for the help peter , iv successfully fitted the timing belt on, the alignment was spot on after the instructions u gave me peter, thanks again, anyways i couldnt manage to fit the water pump as it was too awkward to get at,

it look like the water is leaking from near the engine underneath (near the head), im thinking of pouring some liquid glass (sealant) into the radiator and leaving it overnight, what do you guys rekon, is it definately the water pump or not coz i doubt it as the water is not leaking from near the waterpump,

please can somone guide me further,

thanks for the help so far!

[acetip]

hi, thanks for the help peter , iv successfully fitted the timing belt on, the alignment was spot on after the instructions u gave me peter, thanks again, anyways i couldnt manage to fit the water pump as it was too awkward to get at,

it look like the water is leaking from near the engine underneath (near the head), im thinking of pouring some liquid glass (sealant) into the radiator and leaving it overnight, what do you guys rekon, is it definately the water pump or not coz i doubt it as the water is not leaking from near the waterpump,

please can somone guide me further,

thanks for the help so far!

carefull what you stick in your rad.suggest bars seal,get at halfordrs etc.

[petroleum]

Hi again,

good so you have the engine running ok? or not? I cant quite understand why the water pump is hard to change as it is right up there at the top and not enclosed like some modern day belt engines whereby they can be connected to the timing belt system. Need to know if you have filled the rad up gone out for a run and what can you see now of any water leaking > ?? make sure the hoses to the water pump are ok and the clips squrely on or else you may get them slowly weaping out and finding a way to the cyl head?

[Jaggerismyname]

Hasky,

It sounds like you need to check the engine block for cracks and the hoses for splits.

It's common for a total and lengthy freeze up to split an unprotected engine so if the leak is not near the water pump it's from somewhere else.Hoses are first suspect,including heater hoses, but then the block.If water really pours out of the leak then an additive is unlikely to work.

Find the leak first and then fix it.Or the other option.It's not worth worrying about what it may or may not be but bear in mind the warning you've had about the water pump.It's likely wrecked.

[hasky]

hi, thanks guys iv checked all the hoses and the leak is quite bad, it coming from the middle of the engine looks like behind the manifold, its pretty bad, i pourd water into the radiator and the water is straight away leaking out, i can see it,

anyways i took the car for a quick spin round the park and drives spot on, but i didnt want to reck the engine as the heater is running cold even when the hot air is on,

i think the leak is from the engine block and not the water pump,

thanks

[petroleum]

Have you checked the small hose that runs up from under neath up to the thottle body or thottle housing could that be split??

[acetip]

does this engine have core plugs.thats what there for,to pop out if engine freezes.as yours did.

[hasky]

hi, sorry whats a core plug and wher is it located? i need to chek it,

cheers

[hasky]

hi, yeh im not sure if this is the core plug, but i found a 2p coin size silver top or coin thing, it was near the the timing belt cover after looking around, i lookd at my old timing belt which was snapped and it had a imprint of the coin/top thing

so if its the core plug,

my thoery (if im correct) is that the car started, engine must have frozen up, core plug released and fell into timing belt and must have snapped it,

please dnt laugh at my theory im jus guessin, jus to advise im still learning,

im gonna try and take a pic of this silver coin and upload it,

thanks

[acetip]

prettty sure you found the core plug it will be slightly concave in shape'

it must have been the cause of the belt breaking as its jammed between the belt and a pulley.

if the plug is not too bad it can be refitted.but best buy a new one.your going to have to find the hole it came out of in the block, you may have to strip things off the engine to gain access to this hole such as manifolds.

when you find this hole it wiil have a recess in it for the plug.this recess has to be cleaned thoroughly.then put some jointing compound in recess.fit the pug into the hole,the concave side towards the block.when your sure the plug is pushed right home.take hammer at hit the middle of the plug enough to spread the plug tight in the receess of the hole.well thats how they used to be fiited when i was on the tools as they say.

modern car engines are not as easy to get at as they use to be so good luck.

it will do no harm to put some BARS SEAL in your rad (not expansion tank.)it will stop any weeping from the core plug.get at any motor shop.

[petroleum]

I would just like to add to acetips correct comments if there is room to to carry out the job which is debatable? if you can place a suitable size brass dift over the centre of the core plug and try hitting it square on but not that hard that you buckle it!

If you feel that you have hit it smack on the fist time leave it at that ! I say this cause people who have not been on the tools can be very hand fisted and lack feeling!! If you have located the problem, then you have been very lucky to get away with out having a split block and even more lucky if you can fit the plug with out even removing the cyl head!!