Diesel Lack Of Power

[Justino]

I have a problem with my 2004 2.0 diesel Avensis

I have intermittent lack of power below 2500 – 2800 revs. I find if the revs drop below this level and then reapply the throttle I have what feels like no power and I have to change down 1 or 2 gears. If I can coax the revs above around 2700 the power comes back in and all is well.The difference is like light and day.

Any ideas on what this could be, I was thinking something to do with the Turbo actuator, MAF, or fuel pump etc. Any way to tell?

thanks

[Sam29]

I have a problem with my 2004 2.0 diesel Avensis

I have intermittent lack of power below 2500 – 2800 revs. I find if the revs drop below this level and then reapply the throttle I have what feels like no power and I have to change down 1 or 2 gears. If I can coax the revs above around 2700 the power comes back in and all is well.The difference is like light and day.

Any ideas on what this could be, I was thinking something to do with the Turbo actuator, MAF, or fuel pump etc. Any way to tell?

thanks

I had same issue, and clearning EGR helped me.

[Justino]

that would make sense

I had a very similar issue last year in my BMW, so suffering deja vu at the moment. Went through all the obvious causes, MAF, fuel pump, filter etc. It turned out to be a faulty actuator causing it to go momentarily into limp mode.

The Avensis has done 104,000 miles, so is probaly clogged up by now.

[RAV4Len]

I have a problem with my 2004 2.0 diesel Avensis

I have intermittent lack of power below 2500 – 2800 revs. I find if the revs drop below this level and then reapply the throttle I have what feels like no power and I have to change down 1 or 2 gears. If I can coax the revs above around 2700 the power comes back in and all is well.The difference is like light and day.

Any ideas on what this could be, I was thinking something to do with the Turbo actuator, MAF, or fuel pump etc. Any way to tell?

thanks

I had same issue, and clearning EGR helped me.

Sounds about right.

What brand of fuel do you use?

[Sam29]

I have a problem with my 2004 2.0 diesel Avensis

I have intermittent lack of power below 2500 – 2800 revs. I find if the revs drop below this level and then reapply the throttle I have what feels like no power and I have to change down 1 or 2 gears. If I can coax the revs above around 2700 the power comes back in and all is well.The difference is like light and day.

Any ideas on what this could be, I was thinking something to do with the Turbo actuator, MAF, or fuel pump etc. Any way to tell?

thanks

I had same issue, and clearning EGR helped me.

Sounds about right.

What brand of fuel do you use?

I have bought it used. I am only using BP or Shell fuel now.

Cheers.

[Mistermena]

I have a problem with my 2004 2.0 diesel Avensis

I have intermittent lack of power below 2500 – 2800 revs. I find if the revs drop below this level and then reapply the throttle I have what feels like no power and I have to change down 1 or 2 gears. If I can coax the revs above around 2700 the power comes back in and all is well.The difference is like light and day.

Any ideas on what this could be, I was thinking something to do with the Turbo actuator, MAF, or fuel pump etc. Any way to tell?

thanks

I had same issue, and clearning EGR helped me.

Sounds about right.

What brand of fuel do you use?

I have bought it used. I am only using BP or Shell fuel now.

Cheers.

Try using some BG244 fuel treatment whn you fill up. Its great stuff and really helps the EGR valve to stay cleaner. Or some Forte fuel additive. But the best is BG244. You can buy it off eBay for about £25 a pop...

[Cyker]

It may help keep it clean but no additive or fuel will clean out a blocked EGR!

Only way is to clean out all the soot to unjam the valve :(

Best way to keep it clean is give it a good long run now and then; No matter what fuel or additives, if the car is only doing start-stop traffic city runs the EGR will inevitably clog.

Any additive or fuel (I know V-Power can help) that reduces soot and/or burns cleaner will help slow it down, but only a good hot blast now and then will stop it clogging.

[Mistermena]

It may help keep it clean but no additive or fuel will clean out a blocked EGR!

Only way is to clean out all the soot to unjam the valve :(

Best way to keep it clean is give it a good long run now and then; No matter what fuel or additives, if the car is only doing start-stop traffic city runs the EGR will inevitably clog.

Any additive or fuel (I know V-Power can help) that reduces soot and/or burns cleaner will help slow it down, but only a good hot blast now and then will stop it clogging.

I agree... No fuel additive will clean a clogged EGR valve (Although BG244 suggests that it will remove build up due to the amount of PEA, Polyether-amine in it) But its a good way of preventing the valve clogging up(after cleaning) if you use products like BG244/Forte and Millers Diesel clean. I fill up with Shell V-power whenever I'm near a station that stocks it, as it has twice the additive package of normal Shell Diesel.

I've just bought a brand new EGR valve(25620-ORO12)and pipe(25612-26030) from a guy on eBay for £130 including delivery! Cracking deal as this would cost almost £300 from Mr T...

[Mistermena]

It may help keep it clean but no additive or fuel will clean out a blocked EGR!

Only way is to clean out all the soot to unjam the valve :(

Best way to keep it clean is give it a good long run now and then; No matter what fuel or additives, if the car is only doing start-stop traffic city runs the EGR will inevitably clog.

Any additive or fuel (I know V-Power can help) that reduces soot and/or burns cleaner will help slow it down, but only a good hot blast now and then will stop it clogging.

I agree... No fuel additive will clean a clogged EGR valve (Although BG244 suggests that it will remove build up due to the amount of PEA, Polyether-amine in it) But its a good way of preventing the valve clogging up(after cleaning) if you use products like BG244/Forte and Millers Diesel clean. I fill up with Shell V-power whenever I'm near a station that stocks it, as it has twice the additive package of normal Shell Diesel.

He's a link to a site that explains about "BG" products www.fueltechexperts.com

I've just bought a brand new EGR valve(25620-ORO12)and pipe(25612-26030) from a guy on eBay for £130 including delivery! Cracking deal as this would cost almost £300 from Mr T...

[Justino]

Just removed and cleaned mine, took it steady, and all back together 2 hours later.

Couple of tips.

- Remove the air box for easier access to the bottom bolt which is the trickiest to get to, only 3 bolts need removing

- A 3/8 drive set would probably be best, my 1/4 inch struggled with the torque to losen, and the 1/2 inch was a bit chunky but managed in the end.

It wasn't that bad, but with carb cleaner came up like new. I discovered there is actually a lubrication hole for the valve stem, so have oiled this with some light machine oil. Perhaps it just dries up and sticks rather than clogging up. The hole is between the two coolant hose connecters, and is a horizontal slot shape - worth a try to keep it lubed during normal maintenance.

My only issue is I now have an engine check light on the dash. During the job I brushed a fly which had lodged on the MAF screen - could this be the cause. I noticed the gauze was quite sooty. I will try some MAF spray cleaner, but how do I remove the engine check light? I have an ELM OBD reader - where is the OBD port on an 2004 Avensis?

[Sam29]

I have an ELM OBD reader - where is the OBD port on an 2004 Avensis?

Check below the fuse box on right hand side of the car.

Did you read the code?

[Sam29]

Just removed and cleaned mine, took it steady, and all back together 2 hours later.

Couple of tips.

- Remove the air box for easier access to the bottom bolt which is the trickiest to get to, only 3 bolts need removing

- A 3/8 drive set would probably be best, my 1/4 inch struggled with the torque to losen, and the 1/2 inch was a bit chunky but managed in the end.

It wasn't that bad, but with carb cleaner came up like new. I discovered there is actually a lubrication hole for the valve stem, so have oiled this with some light machine oil. Perhaps it just dries up and sticks rather than clogging up. The hole is between the two coolant hose connecters, and is a horizontal slot shape - worth a try to keep it lubed during normal maintenance.

I would advice you to use only MAF cleaner and not any thing else. As MAF is very sensitive. Search E-bay and you can find out.

Can yo uplease upload a photo showing which is lubrication hole for valve?

If you cannot then can you please explain it but more in detail, where is that?

Cheers.

[Justino]

The engine light has cleared it self. I have read the codes, it was from running the car without the MAF connectd, all cleared now.

I will clean the MAF in due course as it was quite sooty.

Photo attached of lube hole

[Sam29]

The engine light has cleared it self. I have read the codes, it was from running the car without the MAF connectd, all cleared now.

I will clean the MAF in due course as it was quite sooty.

Photo attached of lube hole

Thanks for posting and what lubricating oil would be best to use?

Cheers.

[Justino]

The engine light has cleared it self. I have read the codes, it was from running the car without the MAF connectd, all cleared now.

I will clean the MAF in due course as it was quite sooty.

Photo attached of lube hole

Thanks for posting and what lubricating oil would be best to use?

Cheers.

Not sure to be honest - I have just used some 3 in 1 style oil to start with. I have some spray grease which through a nozzle may work quite well in getting into the gap.

As this is such a common problem I am suprised the lube hole hasn't been mentioned before. My EGR has done 100,000 miles, and it wasn't blocked, yes it was dirty bit not enough in my opinion to be causing a problem on a 2004 Avensis. I think the issue is the lube drying up and the valve sticks.

[Justino]

Have cleaned the MAF this morning.

It is held in by 2 screws into the air box, removed thosed and withdrew the MAF after disconnecting. Blasted the various resistors whivh are stretched between metal posts with electrical contact cleaner. Dried with a hair drier on low and then left for an hour for any residue to evaporate.

In the air box is a gauze. This has nothing to do with the MAF, it is just to stop any objects getting through if they have managed to get past the air filter, but gave it a blast as well.

Initial reaction is the throttle seems more responsive, but I could be imagining it. The true test will be the MPG I will get from now. It needs a new air filter as it is black, and have just pumped the tyres up as I have found the MPG can be quite sensitive to low tyre pressures. All these measure should help the MPG which over the past 15,000 miles has been circa 41 mpg (calculated) although the computer can be very inaccurate suggesting 50 mpg.

[Justino]

Two weeks on and the car is running well. The MAF clean and new air filter has certainly improved starting from cold.

MPG appears to be better based on the computer, although won't know until I fill the tank and calculate the MPG.

I think on this style of egr, it probably isn't blocked, but just stiff through the lubrication drying up. I am going to get some spray oil and lubricate the EGR once every few months.

[acetip]

Two weeks on and the car is running well. The MAF clean and new air filter has certainly improved starting from cold.

MPG appears to be better based on the computer, although won't know until I fill the tank and calculate the MPG.

I think on this style of egr, it probably isn't blocked, but just stiff through the lubrication drying up. I am going to get some spray oil and lubricate the EGR once every few months.

lots of dicussion about cleaning EGR but doesnt anyone clean their inlet manifold.must getting as bad a state as the EGR.as to giving a good blast, as the EGR is on the inlet side dont think this is going to help much.

[Justino]

Two weeks on and the car is running well. The MAF clean and new air filter has certainly improved starting from cold.

MPG appears to be better based on the computer, although won't know until I fill the tank and calculate the MPG.

I think on this style of egr, it probably isn't blocked, but just stiff through the lubrication drying up. I am going to get some spray oil and lubricate the EGR once every few months.

lots of dicussion about cleaning EGR but doesnt anyone clean their inlet manifold.must getting as bad a state as the EGR.as to giving a good blast, as the EGR is on the inlet side dont think this is going to help much.

The point I am making is the EGR wasn't that bad, not dirty enough to be blocked. Yes I have seen other types which have been virtually blocked, but mine for 100,000 miles was ok. On this type of EGR I think lubricating before going to the effort of removing may cure if it is sticking.