Diy Clutch Replacement

[stryder67]

Really appreaciate the offer Anchorman but im pretty restricted in transport at the moment.

Ive rigged a support across the wings i just need to suspend the engine on chains or a strop. Its loooking favourite to just wrap a strop right round the engine but this will put a lot of strain on the sump. Ive bent them in the past.

Thanks for the offer though.

[anchorman]

I took off the intercooler and the bracket with the VSV and turbo pressure sensor (they are better off out of the way) then I found a bolt in the end of the block that I fastened the chain to.

[HEMI]

only use Blueprint parts,part numbers begin with ADL.....By the way my SMF is still going strong with no issues and I think it's been nearly 2 years when I fitted it

[Davrav]

only use Blueprint parts,part numbers begin with ADL.....By the way my SMF is still going strong with no issues and I think it's been nearly 2 years when I fitted it

Hey Hemi, good to hear from you. Interested to know roughly what mileage the RAV has done since the conversion?

[HEMI]

thanks,not completely sure of the mileage as it's the wifes car but I reckon about 15000 miles as it's on 75000 on the clock now

[anchorman]

Flippin ek' - stranger in the camp!

I fitted an SMF with a mate of mine if you can believe it!!???

[crofter]

Flippin ek' - stranger in the camp!

I fitted an SMF with a mate of mine if you can believe it!!???

Which bit are you doubting any one would believe, the Smf or the mate.?

I dont beeleeeve anyone on here would doubt you especially with you being a mod.

[stryder67]

Thanks for responses

Yes i was looking at that bracket Anchorman and given how massively over-enginered it is i was figuring perhaps that was a factory fit hoisting point.

I may suspend and block up the engine under the sump with a 30mm board. Should spread the load.

Im taking off the crossmember and lateral support that connects the front engine/box mount tomorrow without first supporting engine/box but leaving the box end nmount in place. Cant see any probs can you.

Im leaving in driveshafts and taking them out with the box as its prooving a !Removed! to get them out on my own.

Thanks for the help.

O by the way Anchor will a bog standard clutch alignment tool do for a rav or do i need something special..

[HEMI]

anything will do to line the clutch up,we use our eyes

[HEMI]

Flippin ek' - stranger in the camp!

I fitted an SMF with a mate of mine if you can believe it!!???

Flippen ek'--- no I can't believe it......lol

[stryder67]

Cheers Hemi

Given your exchanges with Anchorman on the issue of SMF I imagine your flabber- has never been so -gasted. ha ha

[anchorman]

Flippin ek' - stranger in the camp!

I fitted an SMF with a mate of mine if you can believe it!!???

Which bit are you doubting any one would believe, the Smf or the mate.?

I dont beeleeeve anyone on here would doubt you especially with you being a mod.

It will be HEMI that is shocked. We've chewed the fat on this many times.

Stryder - as HEMI says just nip up the pressure plate then get your head in and eyeball it to make sure the hub is concentric with the fingers in the pressure plate. Double check with a mirror. The passenger side drive shaft will come out easy but the drivers side is about half a mile long. I got a helper to watch that in (he was put in charge of that and told to ignore anything else). Take care as the shafts go into the box as you can flip the springs out of the seals. Make sure they are dead clean and lightly oiled.

[stryder67]

Reet then... finally got gearbox out last night. On my own.....what joy. Did it by using 2 trolley jacks with a diy bracket (75mm angle) bolted to the head of each jack and bolted to the gearbox casing using its own bolts. worked very well for taking the weight but an assistant is advisable. Another good tip is to leave drive shafts in place until you remove cross member. A doddle to remove once you can get some space to lever.

What have i found.

As suspected the release bearing is knackered. This was the reason for changing clutch as when pressing clutch pedal sounded like metal grinding and also when engine was hot (driving after 20mins)getting serious judder when setting off in first although gear changes were good.

Turns out the clutch and flywheel were changed last year with a toyota DMF and clutch (seems they might have skipped the release bearing. Imagine my surprise when removing clutch to find it is totally knackered. It has worn unevenly and partially cracked in places (due to heat i expect). Fingers on pressure plate have a nice shiny ring where release bearing has been riding which seems even and as you would expect.

Flywheel looks to have been overheating as there are traces of blueish rings. Have examined the movement and when looking at the outer edge there is about 25-30mm range of movement.

Bell housing is filthy and smothered in dust.

Release bearing race is definately gone and the bearing is very stiff on the shaft due to some kind of gunge either stuck or melted onto shaft.

Will try and take some pictures today and post.

Questions.

1 Do you think the extreme and uneven wearing of the new clutch (less than 7000 miles)is purely due to release bearing failure and has somehow kept the clutch stuck.Or is it down to poor fitting or something else???

2 Would the release bearing failure cause the judder in first when hot?

3 Does the flywheel sound like its knackered and is there anywhere i could get it checked out. Im thinking of putting in a SMF now but it would be nice to sell the DMF if its still servicable.

4 Should the shaft where RB sits be greased as well as the splines that go into clutch as well as the fork that operates it.

5 |Is it advisable for new driveshaft seals and springs, prop shaft seals

Sorry for all the questions but i want to make sure the jobs done right this time.

Thanks

[anchorman]

Its hard to say what has damaged the clutch. It could be the release bearing but it could be it was hammered by the last owner. You may never solve that one (unless you spot something when you take the DMF out). Good kits come with new bolts so pay particular attention to the tightening sequence and also you should apply loctite to the threads;

Flywheel sequence.pdf

The release bearing would contribute to the judder in its current condition but so would the drive plate, pressure plate and any distortion of the DMF. You need to throw it all out and start again.

You can check the flwheel for run out although it would be difficult to be sure there is no play between the two elements. You might find a buyer who would risk it if you start with no reserve on eBay but to be honest I think that anyone who mauls that lot out to put a second hand DMF back in wants their head testing. I would have to be VERY confident to do that and if I saw any discolouring I would not touch it with a barge pole!!!

I wash out the whole bell housing and use high melting point grease when I fit the release bearing and the release arm. It will soon be a black mess in there anyway. Don't use any more than a light smear on the bearing or the splines to avoid it getting flung on the pressure plate or you will have it juddering again.

As long as there is absolutely no trace of an oil leak I put the old seals back. If there is and you intend keeping it change them. Check that there is no oil coming from between the transfer box and the gearbox (you will see a little escape cut out in the casting). I know somebody who is having to strip it all for just that. The prop shaft isn't a problem, you can do that anytime with the gearbox in.

One last thing. When you come to put the box back you will find that the transfer box has to hook behind the engine flywheel housing and it will look miles out of line. Keep easing it forward and only when it is nearly in (about 25mm) will it hook round and line up.

[stryder67]

Do you think there is any way the friction plate has been put in the wrong way round. There appears no indicators to say which way it should go.

Remember when looking at these images this clutch etc has only done 7k miles.

Unless he was a rally driver or towing a ship its seems unlikely heavy use is the cause.

flywheel side

gearbox side

[anchorman]

It was in the wrong way around. Unlike most conventional arrangements, the long part of the boss goes towards the flywheel as in the top diagram here;

Clutch install.pdf

It has distorted the clutch and I'm amzed you ever got gears with it properly. If you contact Speedyparts at Hazel Grove (0161 456 0211) they will get you one of the really good quality Jap SMF kits that I fitted for about £375. You can get them cheaper off eBay but when you see the spring arrangement and the machining you will know what I mean. It comes complete with special stepped bolt and the hub is marked which way to fit it!!!

[stryder67]

Cheers Anchorman

Unbelievable that it ever worked - still plenty of clowns around in the motor trade. " i will not bother finding out which way this goes ill just guess - bound to be right".

Ive already ordered one from Techniclutch. Lifetime guarentee on flywheel 4 years or 40k on all other parts. Best cover ive seen for a clutch.

In your fitting guide it describes release hub grease as being applied to release fork etc. I take it copper slip will do the same job?

My final problem that i have with this is the cross member. It seems pretty obvious whoever did the botch job liked to use an air gun on every bolt (had to mash up the security wheel nuts on both sides) or his ratchet had a 3ft handle.

When removing the cross member bolt that is really long (think its at the front and goes into a column near the wheel arch) I snappped the captive nut from its mounting due to having to use a strong bar. This meant to remove member i had to cut the head of the bolt off. Myh problem is i now have the remains of the bolt inside the column with no way of getting a new bolt to fit.

Is there any access to the inside of this column. Looking at it this would have to be from the inside of the car. Thought i would ask before i start pulling out the carpet.

I believe the cross member has to be squared up by meausring so my only other option would be to weld it in place.

Cheers

[anchorman]

Been away for a few days and in any case I can't remember the details of that column. I would just have to "investigate" and do whatever is necessary.

Don't use copperslip if it isn't too late, use good quality high melting point grease. Copperslip is clay based and can congeal with time.

[stryder67]

Back on the road at last.

Had to cut a hole in chassis where sub frame fits with rear bolt. Bolt is captive (or was) but due to water somehow penetrating down through chassis it was corroded and snapped during removal. Just get the hole welded up and its all good.

Not as bad a job as i was expecting given all the blowing out from people when i said i was doing it on my back but not for the faint hearted.

Thanks for all the help from the forum.

Need a sat nav now but ill ask in another thread.

Cheers all