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Warning! Yaris Exhaust Extremely Expensive.


cruiser007
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Thanks for your opinion, but NOT every Yaris owner wants to or has the facilities to climb under their cars to fit an exhaust themselves, especially when it involves cutting bits off and welding!!! Also, why should Yaris owners have to do such a thing when all other brands of car have the correct parts (seperate CAT, Front, Middle & Rear sections) widely available?

As for an exhaust rusting in 3-7 years....it may be the case on some Yaris's, but I had a new quality exhaust rust away in 2 years on my Citroen Xsara....so it depends on the weather and how much salt they chuck on the roads I suppose!

The original post is obviously written by someone with no experience of fastfit exhausts and none of the real world..

People in the real world cut exhausts to bits, weld in joins and attach small sections.

As for not buying a car because of the possibility of having to buy a new exhaust in 3 or 5 or 7 years time,,, muppetry in my view.

PS

My exhaust is 8 years old and original...

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Thanks for your opinion, but NOT every Yaris owner wants to or has the facilities to climb under their cars to fit an exhaust themselves, especially when it involves cutting bits off and welding!!! Also, why should Yaris owners have to do such a thing when all other brands of car have the correct parts (seperate CAT, Front, Middle & Rear sections) widely available?

As for an exhaust rusting in 3-7 years....it may be the case on some Yaris's, but I had a new quality exhaust rust away in 2 years on my Citroen Xsara....so it depends on the weather and how much salt they chuck on the roads I suppose!

The original post is obviously written by someone with no experience of fastfit exhausts and none of the real world..

People in the real world cut exhausts to bits, weld in joins and attach small sections.

As for not buying a car because of the possibility of having to buy a new exhaust in 3 or 5 or 7 years time,,, muppetry in my view.

PS

My exhaust is 8 years old and original...

most people have a hacksaw and can use it.no welding needed, just a clamp,most can tighten a nut i would have thought.

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I think the issue here Cruiser, which is why others have been pointing out alternative views, is that you're really just "scaremongering".

Neither you nor anyone on this thread has had a Yaris exhaust fail in a timescale that they think is too short.

Its not an issue that has been raised before and although you are concerned about surface rust on the pipework - it hasn't happened to you either yet....

You correctly point out that the dealer prices are high - but no one in their right mind goes to the main dealer to buy a new exhaust - they go to exhaust specialists - who do supply the appropriate aftermarket parts at much more reasonable prices - and its they that weld or cut the OEM systems to fit aftermarket parts - they've been doing that for 30 years, even if you haven't been aware.

OEM exhausts always come in fewer parts because the fewer parts they have, the faster they can assemble the cars in the factory. The replacement aftermarket systems come in more sections so that parts that fail more quickly can be more easily replaced.

That's why people have gone to pains to point out the alternative options to your original post... Because there isn't a real issue for us to discuss yet - just a "worry" from you about what might happen in the future....

And based on people on this forum who have owned Yarises for over ten years (me included) most of us don't expect it to be an issue in the future either - but feel free to say "I told you so" if there is a problem in coming years...

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That's very nice of you to say. Thought I'd put the effort in as it's my last post for a fortnight - you can all discuss Yarii to your hearts content - I'm off to the Maldives for two weeks diving with the missus - but that's a subject for discussion on another forum....

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So your exhaust will be rusted through by the time you return from your trip......lol

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Here you go.

This is for the Mk1 1.3 Yaris from Timax. Just found this with a quick google.

They don't list a solution for the Mk2 1.3 Yaris yet, presumably because there's no market yet, but you can see here how they've created an extra centre section and you just cut the original pipe afetr the cat if you need to replace the centre section...

900449.gif

Centre section is £47 and rear section is £48.

Would expect something similar for our Mk2s by the time we need ot change them....

Middle bit today was £155 from Kwik-Fit for a 2004 1.3 petrol Yaris.

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looks like bosal do the back box/rear silencer and not the centre section yet.

note there are 2 types of 1.3/exhaust on 2007 model year one made in france with prefix VNK chassis number and one in japan prefix JTD chassis number

http://www.catalogue.bosal.com/pages/exh_system_list.php?query_nr=2&make=TOYOTA&model=Yaris

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I just broken my backbox, I ordered one on internet and going to change it by my own.

Unfortunely, I broke the clamp because it has too rust. Does anyone can provide the size of the clamp between the central silencer to the backbox please?

Do they weld it between those two collector or just plug it in and put some exhuast glue?

Here is the picture for my yaris's exhaust

http://www.catalogue.bosal.com/pages/exh_select_order_list.php?query_nr=20&sysnr=08496003

(Sorry for my poor english)

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  • 3 months later...

I know this is a long time after this post was written but I used to fit exhausts on Model T Fords!!!! Not really, I just made that up. Not quite that old. A30's Morris 1000's.

What rotten cars they were. In every sense of the word. We don't know how well off we are in many ways today with cars.

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I know this is a long time after this post was written but I used to fit exhausts on Model T Fords!!!! Not really, I just made that up. Not quite that old. A30's Morris 1000's.

What rotten cars they were. In every sense of the word. We don't know how well off we are in many ways today with cars.

thats a bit unfair to describe those old cars as rotten cars,no they are not as good as modern cars but thats progress. but they were not the best cars you could buy at the time and if looked after were reliable.remember my father having a A35 in creame but for some reason it was called COURT GREY.it was 1000 cc,and returned 50 mpg.cant remember it ever letting him down.the morris minor was one of the first cars to have rack and pinnion steering,and at the was the second best selling car to the vw beetle.so that says something.

the time will come when your car may be described as a load of rubbish compared to cars in the future.maybe next week?

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I know this is a long time after this post was written but I used to fit exhausts on Model T Fords!!!! Not really, I just made that up. Not quite that old. A30's Morris 1000's.

What rotten cars they were. In every sense of the word. We don't know how well off we are in many ways today with cars.

Yes, so "rotten" that there are thousands of Morris Minors and 1000s still running reliably around the world today. I have a 50 yr old Minor 1000 in my garage and it's a far better put together and more solid car than the rubbish Yaris I've just disposed of. Rattles less too and still achieves high 40s +mpg!

You must know the trick to fit the one piece exhaust to a Minor then? Less than £30 even now for the full system. Compare that to the same on a "superior" modern car! 100% reliable, if serviced properly and so simple to repair if they do go wrong, compare that to a "superior" modern too.

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I had two A30s as cheap transport. My brother had a Morris Minor. I also had a 1929 Riley 9, a 1947 Rover 16 , a 1953 Rover 75 and a 1962 Rover 110. And a 1969 MG1100, several original Minis pre 1980s , and a 1955 Standard 8.

All rusted badly.

All would be virtually undriveable in today's traffic unless you have Arnold Schwarzenegger muscles (Power steering, power brakes? What are they?)

All had terrible brakes which required frequent servicing... (If you have never experienced brake fade going down a long hill, it is a> very smelly and b> terrifying).

Old cars are best kept in garages... Period.

"Rusty heaps"? Yes: by modern standards. A 1998 1.0 Toyota Yaris is serviced every 10,000 miles. Most of the cars above would have been serviced 3 times in that mileage - 10 times for the Riley 9.

"They don't make them like they used to ". Yes. And thank goodness. And yes I ran a 1967 Lotus Elan S3 as a fun car for a couple of years..

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I had two A30s as cheap transport. My brother had a Morris Minor. I also had a 1929 Riley 9, a 1947 Rover 16 , a 1953 Rover 75 and a 1962 Rover 110. And a 1969 MG1100, several original Minis pre 1980s , and a 1955 Standard 8.

All rusted badly.

All would be virtually undriveable in today's traffic unless you have Arnold Schwarzenegger muscles (Power steering, power brakes? What are they?)

All had terrible brakes which required frequent servicing... (If you have never experienced brake fade going down a long hill, it is a> very smelly and b> terrifying).

Old cars are best kept in garages... Period.

"Rusty heaps"? Yes: by modern standards. A 1998 1.0 Toyota Yaris is serviced every 10,000 miles. Most of the cars above would have been serviced 3 times in that mileage - 10 times for the Riley 9.

"They don't make them like they used to ". Yes. And thank goodness. And yes I ran a 1967 Lotus Elan S3 as a fun car for a couple of years..

terrible brakes,yet they still pass the mot cant be that bad.brake servo dont make better brakes they just push harder for you.disc brakes were in in use before the WW 11.and are no better than than drum brakes of same brake service,but they run cooler.performance wise there is no contest,but it still does not make them bad cars.drivers who still use must be a lot clevere,cos they can turn the wipers on all by themselves,as they can their lights.

who realy needs auto stuff like that.

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You have obviously never experienced drum brakes fading. Terrifying. And none of this automatic adjustment stuff. Most had to be adjusted every 3,000 miles. And if you did not get them correct, they pulled to one side, or to one side and then the other.

Horrible.. Horrible.. Going down a steep hill with smoke billowing from your front wheels, a terrible smell, your right foot hard to the floor on the brake pedal and no effect and a very steep hill still in front of you..

Been there, never again...

Simce MOT test requirements for brakes are very low and they only test at effectively low speeds, the inadequacies of drum barkes can best be experienced by driving a 1960s 7 litre Ford Galaxy round a racing track. then you realise why the works Mini coopers with disk brakes beat them - well there was a slight matter of cornering as well.

see: http://www.race2play.com/homepage/show_posts/21340

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Carina E we had for 9 years... original exhaust.

Corolla TSport owned 8 years... original exhaust.

Corolla 1.4T3 saloon coming up to 8 years old... original exhaust. This does short runs and has covered only 23K in 8 years. Gets a daily 0.5 mile run to fill the exhaust with water :) No problems as yet ;)

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You have obviously never experienced drum brakes fading. Terrifying. And none of this automatic adjustment stuff. Most had to be adjusted every 3,000 miles. And if you did not get them correct, they pulled to one side, or to one side and then the other.

Horrible.. Horrible.. Going down a steep hill with smoke billowing from your front wheels, a terrible smell, your right foot hard to the floor on the brake pedal and no effect and a very steep hill still in front of you..

Been there, never again...

Simce MOT test requirements for brakes are very low and they only test at effectively low speeds, the inadequacies of drum barkes can best be experienced by driving a 1960s 7 litre Ford Galaxy round a racing track. then you realise why the works Mini coopers with disk brakes beat them - well there was a slight matter of cornering as well.

see: http://www.race2play.com/homepage/show_posts/21340

ive never experianced drum brakes fading,nor billowing smoke,but the i never did drive on my brakes.though they will tend to get warmer discs brakes.braking force is no better than discs.and the drums did not wear out like modern one.good old asbetos

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though they will tend to get warmer discs brakes.braking force is no better than discs.and the drums did not wear out like modern one.good old asbetos

Too true. Modern linings are much harder.. but better for your lungs. Drums did wear out eventually though.. went ovall or developped lips on them .. pig to remove then!

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Sorry if I caused upset amongst the fans of older cars. They did rust more quickly than modern cars. They did go wrong more often. Needed servicing every 1000 miles. Some anyway.

Brakes did fade at times and took longer to stop. Although simpler to repair. This carried on into the 1970's. The average car is now also less money in real terms than when I stated work in 1963. Mini £495.00 approx. Rust coming through in 3 years or so. That was close to the average industrial wage for many back then. I was an MOT tester from 1969 to 1976 and failed so many cars with rust problems. Chassis, top struts on Fords, as someone has already said,, metal brake pipes,broken leaf springs. Not too many fail with rust now I would think.

Saying that I still like to see these older cars being kept in good order by enthusiasts.

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though they will tend to get warmer discs brakes.braking force is no better than discs.and the drums did not wear out like modern one.good old asbetos

Too true. Modern linings are much harder.. but better for your lungs. Drums did wear out eventually though.. went ovall or developped lips on them .. pig to remove then!

if the car had self adjusting drum brakes as some of the 6o/70 had yes was a headache getting drums off,but manuel adjusted drum brakes you just wind the adjuster off.surprising how many people who should have known better failed to do this,ad resolved to using a hammer,(copper/ hide.)to get the drum off.

yes any braking surface will wear in time. but later discs seem to wear very quick,my old passat still had the same pads and dics from new, after 120000 miles and yes they were asbestos free.i am sure later discs on all cars are a poorer quality than earlier ones.

something else to make a profit.

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The reason modern discs wear out more than in the past is because of the move to asbestos free brake pad linings.

The non-asbestos brake pads are harder and therefore cause the discs to wear more than the old asbestos-based pads.

You can't have it all ways, but I think I'd rather not have loads of asbestos dust blowing around when I take the drums off or clean the disc calipers...

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This topic appears to have gone "Off Topic"

Just to remind users that it is about Yaris Exhausts!!!!!!

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That's me told.

Perhaps we'd better start a thread entitled "Anything you want to chat about to do with your Yaris".....

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That's me told.

Perhaps we'd better start a thread entitled "Anything you want to chat about to do with your Yaris".....

Not just having a pop at you......but thinking if sometime in the future someone wants to search the forum topic titles about exhausts for Yaris.....they may be a little disappointed to find that this topic rapidly turns into a discussion about brakes

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