Problem With Cold Start Avensis 1.8 Vvt-I

[Legionaru']

The problem only occurs when you first start in the morning when the temperature falls below 2 degrees Celsius.

When temperatures exceed 2 to 3 degrees Celsius even after two days of stay, the car starts perfect.

I checked the starter, fuel pump, throttle.They are all ok. In the morning, cold air intake temperature is equal to the measured temperature sensor coolant.The car is fitted with the Iridium plugs that went about 20,000 miles.

Otherwise the car works perfectly, no loss of power, not consume oil.

2 days ago I cleaned the two sensors on the crankshaft and camshafts sensor I have replaced it. But the morning was not as cold to see how the engine starts.The next morning waiting to see how it shows the problem.

What do you think can be outside of what I've checked?

This clip is from last year to -15 degrees Celsius, when the problem does not exist:

This clip is this year - 9 degrees Celsius, the problem exists:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZGQrBfcrug

[acetip]

what grade oil are you using.your motor needs 5w 30.anything heavier in cold weather could effect the starting

in winter things like oil grade,and Battery condition which gets pulled down by the lower temp.on every car.

on second pic the car spins a few times more before firing,but its doing it at -9c.

wouldnt think thats a problem.

[Legionaru']

In the first clip is Mobil1 0W40 in the engine but the Battery is discharged.

In the second clip in the engine is Motul 300V Power Racing 5W30, the Battery is new.

[acetip]

dont know how bad the winters are in romania and if they normnly get as low as youve described.

if your car is regulary serviced and runs/starts ok in warmer conditions and if the auto choke is working ok (which on modern petrol engines i know little about),then why not give OW 20 a try.

you not said how many klm your car has done.

[igormus]

The problem only occurs when you first start in the morning when the temperature falls below 2 degrees Celsius.

When temperatures exceed 2 to 3 degrees Celsius even after two days of stay, the car starts perfect.

I checked the starter, fuel pump, throttle.They are all ok. In the morning, cold air intake temperature is equal to the measured temperature sensor coolant.The car is fitted with the iridium plugs that went about 20,000 miles.

Otherwise the car works perfectly, no loss of power, not consume oil.

2 days ago I cleaned the two sensors on the crankshaft and camshafts sensor I have replaced it. But the morning was not as cold to see how the engine starts.The next morning waiting to see how it shows the problem.

What do you think can be outside of what I've checked?

Hi matey

Something has appeared in my head now -- look the battery is another thing but not a starting/ignition process.

The first question -- where do you normally buy petrol? I will retell one story of mine owned the same avensis, as follows: i have been serviced it each 10k kms and right at dealership -- all was fine. Each time i typed the works list to do and they did it. The car was like new with performance and especially fuel consumption. I used A95+ that was purchased from one petrol station all the times. One day in the morning before get to work -- I tried to start it up -- OK it has started well but after a couple of seconds the engine RPM started to play -- I could not understand what is going on -- the tank was about to full, the service was done , the oil is original 5W30, all filters are new etc -- but RPM are playing. I ve phoned to the same dealership mechanic of mine and explained this issue. They requested to arrive to them and show it -- but it is impossible cos this is being happened before cold starting. Ok I was forced to record it on the camera and show this clip accordingly. When seen it they have checked all sparks again and found no sparks fault. AFter a while of negotiations with their senior mechanic they recommend me to change petrol station. OK, I told and left dealership, and started to eat this petrol. Once arrived I ve changed petrol in full from another filling station and could not believe it -- the RPM (when started) were spotted on 1900 rpm with no playing. The moral is that the petrol station (if it is even branded) has a limit of the branded fuel per month for sale but other part of petrol is subject to self selling and cover all current needs on the petrol station. They have been normally blended an ordinary A92 with the highest octane additives to reach A95 and these additives have been originating a vapor pockets before injectors right inside the petrol main pipe. Once I revved engine so much -- these vapors have disappeared until the next cold starting. I consider this might be the same problem belong to your car. Cheers/Igor

[Legionaru']

@acetip

The car has 94.000km. The car was serviced every 7.500km.

90,000 km went with Mobil1 0W40.

Now I put in Motul 300V Power Racing 5W30 engine.

Why should I try 0W20?

@ igormus

Refuel in Mol, Mol Evo octane gasoline 100.

If you see the first clip after the starter drive, the idle speed goes from 0 rpm to about 2000rpm. It is ok.

In the second clip, after the starter drive, the idle speed goes from 0 rpm to 200rpm, then at 600rpm, 800rpm and then finally at 2000rpm. Here's the problem, 0-200-600-800-2000rpm.

[igormus]

@acetip

The car has 94.000km. The car was serviced every 7.500km.

90,000 km went with Mobil1 0W40.

Now I put in Motul 300V Power Racing 5W30 engine.

Why should I try 0W20?

@ igormus

Refuel in Mol, Mol Evo octane gasoline 100.

If you see the first clip after the starter drive, the idle speed goes from 0 rpm to about 2000rpm. It is ok.

In the second clip, after the starter drive, the idle speed goes from 0 rpm to 200rpm, then at 600rpm, 800rpm and then finally at 2000rpm. Here's the problem, 0-200-600-800-2000rpm.

OK - I ve double seen the 2nd clip and found out the following:

- slow cranking;

- thoughtful ignition;

- stable RPM at 2000.

OK the one thing is still missed -- whether or not you do normally depress clutch pedal?

IN case 200 RPM are stable -- thus petrol quality is OK. But when cranked a slow voltage is created by the alternator. I'd inspect an alternator charging properties and test an accumulator Battery as the first step. The cranking is really poor. Cheers/Igor

[Legionaru']

The Battery is new and the load was checked when I installed the new Battery. It's ok.

I start engine with clutch pedal pressed. After starting the engine let go of the clutch pedal.

Again, the problem occurs only when it's cold outside, below 2 degrees Celsius.

[igormus]

The battery is new and the load was checked when I installed the new battery. It's ok.

You start engine with clutch pedal pressed. After starting the engine let go of the clutch pedal.

Again, the problem occurs only when it's cold outside, below 2 degrees Celsius.

OK now we have got an equation with so many unknown quantities.

where is the way out ?? the Battery is new; the oil is 5w30; the petrol is OK; the sparks are OK; the pedal is depressed.

OK when did you last serviced starter motor? the only this chain link is faulty then or gets slow voltage -- the rotation is slow and confirmed by clips.Cheers/Igor

[acetip]

The battery is new and the load was checked when I installed the new battery. It's ok.

You start engine with clutch pedal pressed. After starting the engine let go of the clutch pedal.

Again, the problem occurs only when it's cold outside, below 2 degrees Celsius.

OK now we have got an equation with so many unknown quantities.

where is the way out ?? the Battery is new; the oil is 5w30; the petrol is OK; the sparks are OK; the pedal is depressed.

OK when did you last serviced starter motor? the only this chain link is faulty then or gets slow voltage -- the rotation is slow and confirmed by clips.Cheers/Igor

hi Igor,

how about battery/engine earth cables,possible loose or corroded.

[igormus]

The battery is new and the load was checked when I installed the new battery. It's ok.

You start engine with clutch pedal pressed. After starting the engine let go of the clutch pedal.

Again, the problem occurs only when it's cold outside, below 2 degrees Celsius.

OK now we have got an equation with so many unknown quantities.

where is the way out ?? the Battery is new; the oil is 5w30; the petrol is OK; the sparks are OK; the pedal is depressed.

OK when did you last serviced starter motor? the only this chain link is faulty then or gets slow voltage -- the rotation is slow and confirmed by clips.Cheers/Igor

hi Igor,

how about battery/engine earth cables,possible loose or corroded.

You know i can not offend the author with such quotes -- cos in case the new Battery was installed -- it is deemed all connections were checked. But the result is the same -- slow cranking.OK I ve got an idea -- have all sparks screwed out and try to crank again + have this clip hang right here to see difference -- in case the cranking will be fast then you starter needs good service.. Anybody agree with me ?? Cheers/Igor

[acetip]

The battery is new and the load was checked when I installed the new battery. It's ok.

You start engine with clutch pedal pressed. After starting the engine let go of the clutch pedal.

Again, the problem occurs only when it's cold outside, below 2 degrees Celsius.

OK now we have got an equation with so many unknown quantities.

where is the way out ?? the Battery is new; the oil is 5w30; the petrol is OK; the sparks are OK; the pedal is depressed.

OK when did you last serviced starter motor? the only this chain link is faulty then or gets slow voltage -- the rotation is slow and confirmed by clips.Cheers/Igor

hi Igor,

how about battery/engine earth cables,possible loose or corroded.

You know i can not offend the author with such quotes -- cos in case the new Battery was installed -- it is deemed all connections were checked. But the result is the same -- slow cranking.OK I ve got an idea -- have all sparks screwed out and try to crank again + have this clip hang right here to see difference -- in case the cranking will be fast then you starter needs good service.. Anybody agree with me ?? Cheers/Igor

perish the thought i would mean to offend anyone.

yes people may check they have good conections Battery cable connections,but omit to check the cable earth connections to the chassis.i know cable corrosion is not so common now we have negative earths as the old positive earths.but its still worth a check.

reminds me of many years ago when a friends car had trouble turning over,the garage replaced starter and battery but still had problem so replaced flywheel ring too.trouble was earth cable corossion/rust on the inner wing.

not saying thats the trouble,but has legionaru checked this as well.its not always obvious.

[Legionaru']

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The problem comes from the ignition coils.