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Toyota Auris Utter Poor Fuel Efficiency


del_piero_3
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Harder tyres = lower rolling resistance = better fuel efficiency

I run mine at 40/35 :D

An odd bonus is that they are wearing more evenly too (Previously I'd get more wear on the outsides)

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Less resistance normally means less grip, which is putting you at risk of sliding off the road.

Personally i find grip more important than a couple of MPG on every tank, but we are all different.

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Alas that is a fact of life whether you go for higher pressures or get low resistance tyres. TBH tho', the difference is tiny so apart from a slightly harder ride it doesn't obviously affect the grip too much at normal driving speeds.

At higher speeds, it's actually safer tho' as there is less chance of a blowout due to excess tyre deformation that you'd get if the tyre pressures were too low.

I will say it's a bit more skittish cornering in the wet, esp. where there is a loose surface, and I did have to drop the pressures back to stock when it was snowing because the torque on the diesel engine was just spinning the front wheels! I may try low resistance tyres when these wear out as supposedly the newer ones have better wet-grip.

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i have just got a 2008 2.0 d4d t3 auris and will be picking it up in a few days but only found this forum after paying for it and im starting to worry that i have made a bad choice after reading this forum is the mpg realy this bad plus other things(brakes fail,boot leaks) have i made a bad choice or should i go to the garage and ask if i can change it for the golf i was looking at please put my mind at rest or tell me to go for the golf cant have another crap car after my meriva problems want reliable good motor what do you all think i should do

Don't get me wrong, it's a nice car, spacious, not had any problems and I've had it for 10 months now. But it's been costing extra £60 a month and that is a big let down. Its not even a performance car, for £72 of fuel to only give 533 miles (80% motorway miles) is a joke, had it been 630+ I would have settled considering majority is motorway mileage. The miles its giving me on motorway is what I would expect from driving locally. Our VW Bora (2000 or 2001 plate) 533 miles wouldn’t cost more than £50-53. This car is going to cost me £700 extra annually in fuel, that’s assuming I don’t use it more than my regular use. I'm going to look at Jeta or Golf and cut my losses. I’ve never been one that has his eyes glued to fuel gauge but due to this car I have become this...

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i have just got a 2008 2.0 d4d t3 auris and will be picking it up in a few days but only found this forum after paying for it and im starting to worry that i have made a bad choice after reading this forum is the mpg realy this bad plus other things(brakes fail,boot leaks) have i made a bad choice or should i go to the garage and ask if i can change it for the golf i was looking at please put my mind at rest or tell me to go for the golf cant have another crap car after my meriva problems want reliable good motor what do you all think i should do

Don't get me wrong, it's a nice car, spacious, not had any problems and I've had it for 10 months now. But it's been costing extra £60 a month and that is a big let down. Its not even a performance car, for £72 of fuel to only give 533 miles (80% motorway miles) is a joke, had it been 630+ I would have settled considering majority is motorway mileage. The miles its giving me on motorway is what I would expect from driving locally. Our VW Bora (2000 or 2001 plate) 533 miles wouldn’t cost more than £50-53. This car is going to cost me £700 extra annually in fuel, that’s assuming I don’t use it more than my regular use. I'm going to look at Jeta or Golf and cut my losses. I’ve never been one that has his eyes glued to fuel gauge but due to this car I have become this...

i personally consider the MPG to be quiet good, i dont know what your used to but i think its time to stop moaning and sell up if your so unhappy.

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Toyota Auris (2.0 D4D T Spirit, 08 reg) is one rubbish car when it comes to fuel efficiency.

[*]Decided to refuel and see how much was used for 105 miles (8.87L @ 129.9p = £11.52).

Just done the maths. On those figures you achieved 53.27 mpg. It's no good saying £70 got me 400 miles in a #### & now I am only getting 300 miles for the same money. We are all getting less for our money. It's nothing to do with tyre pressures EGR's or DPF's. It's a matter of LSD, find a way to fix that & your problem is solved! :)

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...After cleaning the EGR, I reset the ECU and inflated the tyres (front 35 and rear 38)...

Quote from the OP, overinflated surely? This can't be what it says on the sticker in the drivers door shut? Mine is 35psi front and 32psi rear... or have I got mine wrong?!

I haven’t seen any stickers in my car, probably need to look harder.

I was always told to have rear more than front because of people/luggage/shopping. Maybe I was told wrong...It never had any neg effect on our Bora.

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...After cleaning the EGR, I reset the ECU and inflated the tyres (front 35 and rear 38)...

Quote from the OP, overinflated surely? This can't be what it says on the sticker in the drivers door shut? Mine is 35psi front and 32psi rear... or have I got mine wrong?!

I haven't seen any stickers in my car, probably need to look harder.

I was always told to have rear more than front because of people/luggage/shopping. Maybe I was told wrong...It never had any neg effect on our Bora.

Door sill of the drivers door, about half way up. Should be there on almost every modern car. Advises the correct pressures for front and rear and under different loads, I can only imagine mine is more pressure at the front due to the heavy diesel lump and less at the back to stop the back losing traction (lets be honest there isn't a lot to hold the back down).

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Most cars have higher pressures at the front just because the engine's there, so I guess it's kinda the same reason you're supposed to have higher pressures when the car is fully loaded.

IIRC my Yaris' manual actually says the higher pressures should be used for heavy loads or high speed driving.

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Toyota Auris (2.0 D4D T Spirit, 08 reg) is one rubbish car when it comes to fuel efficiency.

[*]Decided to refuel and see how much was used for 105 miles (8.87L @ 129.9p = £11.52).

Just done the maths. On those figures you achieved 53.27 mpg. It's no good saying £70 got me 400 miles in a #### & now I am only getting 300 miles for the same money. We are all getting less for our money. It's nothing to do with tyre pressures EGR's or DPF's. It's a matter of LSD, find a way to fix that & your problem is solved! :)

Totally agree with this comment.

You can't work out MPG on value as it differs so widely across the country, so getting X amount of miles from £XX is not a reliable way of working it out.

You need to make a note of the amount of LITRES you put in the car, and then see how far it gets you, but unless you fill the tank to the brim then you will never get an accurate figure.

My current car is more economical than my last car, yet i get 20 miles less from £20 of fuel. Why..? Because £20 of fuel used to by me 18 litres, but now it only buys me 15 litres of the same fuel.

Luckily for all of us, there is freedom to buy whatever car we like, so if i feel i should be getting more miles per gallon, i can by a car capable of achieving it.

:thumbsup:

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...After cleaning the EGR, I reset the ECU and inflated the tyres (front 35 and rear 38)...

Quote from the OP, overinflated surely? This can't be what it says on the sticker in the drivers door shut? Mine is 35psi front and 32psi rear... or have I got mine wrong?!

I haven’t seen any stickers in my car, probably need to look harder.

I was always told to have rear more than front because of people/luggage/shopping. Maybe I was told wrong...It never had any neg effect on our Bora.

If you can't find any stickers check your handbook. If yours is the 1AD-FTV 1998cc diesel then the book says F35 R32 checked when cold. You will probably find that the car handles better & certainly safer

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...After cleaning the EGR, I reset the ECU and inflated the tyres (front 35 and rear 38)...

Quote from the OP, overinflated surely? This can't be what it says on the sticker in the drivers door shut? Mine is 35psi front and 32psi rear... or have I got mine wrong?!

I haven’t seen any stickers in my car, probably need to look harder.

I was always told to have rear more than front because of people/luggage/shopping. Maybe I was told wrong...It never had any neg effect on our Bora.

If you can't find any stickers check your handbook. If yours is the 1AD-FTV 1998cc diesel then the book says F35 R32 checked when cold. You will probably find that the car handles better & certainly safer

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sorry to butt in from out of the blue but thought i should venture out of the corolla section lol.

to address the original post - you made a mistake switching from german to toyota (or any other jap make). go back to germany and stay there - you will not be disappointed.

mark 5 golf 1.9tdi sport 6 speed remaps to around 130bhp without any problem beautiful car. bigger boot and better looking that auris any day for me. with tinkering with air intake and fmic that engine will see you well past 160bhp no issues. and if you're not power hungry then the cars gearbox is well designed to make use of the engine 105bhp from factory...brilliant fuel economy

i find it highly annoying that no one can seem to remap my car's ecu, everyone is offering piggyback solutions!

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sorry to butt in from out of the blue but thought i should venture out of the corolla section lol.

to address the original post - you made a mistake switching from german to toyota (or any other jap make). go back to germany and stay there - you will not be disappointed.

mark 5 golf 1.9tdi sport 6 speed remaps to around 130bhp without any problem beautiful car. bigger boot and better looking that auris any day for me. with tinkering with air intake and fmic that engine will see you well past 160bhp no issues. and if you're not power hungry then the cars gearbox is well designed to make use of the engine 105bhp from factory...brilliant fuel economy

i find it highly annoying that no one can seem to remap my car's ecu, everyone is offering piggyback solutions!

This statement makes me laugh :lol:

You Own a Corolla and slag off the looks of the Auris?

2004054_toyota_corolla_rear.jpg

toyota-auris-2007.jpg

They are so similar its unreal!

As for the MK5 Golf, they all look exactly the same unless the wheels have been changed, and the boot space is actually SMALLER! Golf boot space, 350 litres. Auris Boot space, 354 litres.

I've owned two VAG cars, and will testify to their reliability and economy, they do make excellent engines, BUT a 1.9 PD 105bhp car is not ever going to run as smooth as a 2.0 common rail car with 130bhp, and a remap is not the only reason you should buy a car. A good remap will cost £350 upwards, and a tuning box will cost roughly the same and can be removed at the side of the road if needs be.

Good luck on your trip back to Germany :thumbsup:

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sorry to butt in from out of the blue but thought i should venture out of the corolla section lol.

to address the original post - you made a mistake switching from german to toyota (or any other jap make). go back to germany and stay there - you will not be disappointed.

mark 5 golf 1.9tdi sport 6 speed remaps to around 130bhp without any problem beautiful car. bigger boot and better looking that auris any day for me. with tinkering with air intake and fmic that engine will see you well past 160bhp no issues. and if you're not power hungry then the cars gearbox is well designed to make use of the engine 105bhp from factory...brilliant fuel economy

i find it highly annoying that no one can seem to remap my car's ecu, everyone is offering piggyback solutions!

This statement makes me laugh :lol:

You Own a Corolla and slag off the looks of the Auris?

2004054_toyota_corolla_rear.jpg

toyota-auris-2007.jpg

They are so similar its unreal!

As for the MK5 Golf, they all look exactly the same unless the wheels have been changed, and the boot space is actually SMALLER! Golf boot space, 350 litres. Auris Boot space, 354 litres.

I've owned two VAG cars, and will testify to their reliability and economy, they do make excellent engines, BUT a 1.9 PD 105bhp car is not ever going to run as smooth as a 2.0 common rail car with 130bhp, and a remap is not the only reason you should buy a car. A good remap will cost £350 upwards, and a tuning box will cost roughly the same and can be removed at the side of the road if needs be.

Good luck on your trip back to Germany :thumbsup:

To be fair Dave many owners of the Auris who have also owned a Corolla do say that the Corolla was the better built car and that the Auris is not the step forward it should have been, I think the problem with the Auris is the accountants where allowed to make to many changes to save money hence the dash rattles and poor finishing trim compared to other cars. Dont get me wrong I am not saying the Auris is a bad car but the dash finish etc (not looks/ style) is well short of the Corolla and to be fair the only people to blame for this is customers who want as much as possible for as cheap as possible which is human nature in the end.

The other major problem with the Auris is MPG on the 180 diesels and this is like chalk and cheese as some seem very good then other are not, from my own point of view we used to get similar to what you get but even through Toyota could not find anything wrong with the car in the end we was down to around 30mpg local and 32-35mpg on a run which does not make sense. I even started to doubt our driving style etc but since swapping the car I now know for sure this was not the problem.

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i find it highly annoying that no one can seem to remap my car's ecu, everyone is offering piggyback solutions!

Nobody can offer you a re-map because it cannot be done!

The Denso pumps use high levels of encryption that has not been cracked, and seeing how long the D4D engine has been around, you would have thought it could be done by now.....it can't!

From a money point of view, you get best "bang for buck" out of a tuning box

Kingo :thumbsup:

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sorry to butt in from out of the blue but thought i should venture out of the corolla section lol.

to address the original post - you made a mistake switching from german to toyota (or any other jap make). go back to germany and stay there - you will not be disappointed.

mark 5 golf 1.9tdi sport 6 speed remaps to around 130bhp without any problem beautiful car. bigger boot and better looking that auris any day for me. with tinkering with air intake and fmic that engine will see you well past 160bhp no issues. and if you're not power hungry then the cars gearbox is well designed to make use of the engine 105bhp from factory...brilliant fuel economy

i find it highly annoying that no one can seem to remap my car's ecu, everyone is offering piggyback solutions!

This statement makes me laugh :lol:

You Own a Corolla and slag off the looks of the Auris?

2004054_toyota_corolla_rear.jpg

toyota-auris-2007.jpg

They are so similar its unreal!

As for the MK5 Golf, they all look exactly the same unless the wheels have been changed, and the boot space is actually SMALLER! Golf boot space, 350 litres. Auris Boot space, 354 litres.

I've owned two VAG cars, and will testify to their reliability and economy, they do make excellent engines, BUT a 1.9 PD 105bhp car is not ever going to run as smooth as a 2.0 common rail car with 130bhp, and a remap is not the only reason you should buy a car. A good remap will cost £350 upwards, and a tuning box will cost roughly the same and can be removed at the side of the road if needs be.

Good luck on your trip back to Germany :thumbsup:

To be fair Dave many owners of the Auris who have also owned a Corolla do say that the Corolla was the better built car and that the Auris is not the step forward it should have been, I think the problem with the Auris is the accountants where allowed to make to many changes to save money hence the dash rattles and poor finishing trim compared to other cars. Dont get me wrong I am not saying the Auris is a bad car but the dash finish etc (not looks/ style) is well short of the Corolla and to be fair the only people to blame for this is customers who want as much as possible for as cheap as possible which is human nature in the end.

The other major problem with the Auris is MPG on the 180 diesels and this is like chalk and cheese as some seem very good then other are not, from my own point of view we used to get similar to what you get but even through Toyota could not find anything wrong with the car in the end we was down to around 30mpg local and 32-35mpg on a run which does not make sense. I even started to doubt our driving style etc but since swapping the car I now know for sure this was not the problem.

I've no idea how the Corolla drove in comparison to the Auris, but my comment was made in reference to comment about how the Golf is "better looking that auris any day" when he owns a car that is almost the same in terms of looks, the photos were put in to highlight this.

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I have owned a corolla before my auris and I can say this:

The corolla was better built, no question about it.

The t180 has a bad rep for economy and rightly so, but I am happy with my average of 38mpg as a trade off for 180bhp.

As for comments on german cars... Sweeping statements and totally unfounded, I would say from lurking in all different forums that germans are generally less reliable than japanese cars. Bmw especially seems to be fully of problems, my girlfriends 2005 A3 has its fairshare

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As for comments on german cars... Sweeping statements and totally unfounded, I would say from lurking in all different forums that germans are generally less reliable than japanese cars. Bmw especially seems to be fully of problems, my girlfriends 2005 A3 has its fairshare

I agree, I had a MKV Golf and sold it simply because of the sheer amount of problems it was having, Volkswagens seem to fall apart as soon as the warranty is up.

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As for comments on german cars... Sweeping statements and totally unfounded, I would say from lurking in all different forums that germans are generally less reliable than japanese cars. Bmw especially seems to be fully of problems, my girlfriends 2005 A3 has its fairshare

I agree, I had a MKV Golf and sold it simply because of the sheer amount of problems it was having, Volkswagens seem to fall apart as soon as the warranty is up.

Bit like an XBOX then :lol:

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i said i didn't like the look of the auris and prefer the look of the mark 5 golf over the auris yes. and so what if my corolla is similar in looks to an auris, i never said i like the way my corolla looks...i bought it because at the time it was in budget and what i needed, a necessity over choice situation. had i had a more generous budget would have bought a golf myself.

i run a small car hire company and we have many auris' among other cars. our customers use the "don't be gentle it's only a rental" approach to our cars and through this experience the auris is way way more unreliable whereas the golfs (1.9tdi more so than the 2.0tdi) just take the beating and come back for more.

sorry if i caused offence with my post but i was attempting to pass on my experience to the original post and that is that in general VAG motors are better built and are a nicer place to be than corolla/auris.

and damn those denso people! why do they encrypt so much when most other manufacturers don't bother? or is it just that the market demands people spend more time (and are therefore sucessful) at cracking the ecu's of other makes?

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is not very good in terms of consumption. But i thig i see one thing that bothers me. You say that you change gears between 2000-2500revs. That for a deasel is a bit high and it will increase the consumption. Driving in "normal" mode you should change gears below 2000revs. I'm mainly driving an Avensis 2.0 d4d 116bhp and it requeres more revs to stay in the best consumption levels. If I drive the Auris the same way I got higher consumption. The engine setup is very different. I had the same problems like yours for a while, and adjusting my driving for the car took one tank of fuel. So in my opinion don't drive the car like it's a Bora, you will get used to it.

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I find that no matter what gear i am in, the sweet spot for best MPG is when the rev counter sits at 1900rpm.

In my 2.2 SR180 i can sit in cruise control at 1900 rpm and watch the average MPG climb, and it will reach the 50's on a good run with a steady average speed.

I'll admit that i'm only sat at 65mph on the motorway, but left lane is practically empty and i'm often cruising past the middle lane hoggers and not having to slow down and speed up, so i don't actually get there much slower than the average person, and these days my fuel is more valuable than my time.

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What I found with our old T180 the only way to get good MPG was very low revs like 6th gear 35mph just over 1000rpm and the MPG would climb very well into the late 40s but the problem was that around town you had to keep stopping and if I did 35mph on the M1 I would get committed. We found as the revs / speed increased the MPG would fall and even tried oldschool method of driving were you get up to speed quickly then lay of the throttle but in the end the only way we got MPG was driving with very low revs. We even questioned if it was our driving styles etc but the new car has ruled that out but again when in eco it tell you to put the car in 6th at 35mph for extra MPG but at 70mph this is revving higher than the T180 but still returns a lot better MPG.

The weird thing I found is some people or some cars (T180/SR180) return great mpg as Toyota quote and others are a very long way short of this yet when these owners go back to the dealer no faults are found, does not make sense as if the mpg is so much lower you would expect them to find a fault. I do however suspect in the next few years the reasons for this may become clear due to maybe a common fault coming to light and my personal guess would be a DPF problem as all I can say there is only 4 ways for the diesel to leave the tank.

1. Through the engine injectors which is connected to how heavy your right foot is.

2. Through the DPF injector (you have no control over this)

3. A diesel leak.

4. Diesel being syphoned / stolen from your car.

With driving at low revs (under 1800rpm for a full tank) I ruled out theory 1, and had no problems with theory 3 or 4 hence the only thing I can put down to our low mpg was theory 2.

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